Post pics of your builds....

[linuxworks]

the AMB.org epsilon12:

assembly and photo by linux-works

this is a turn-on delay (about 3 secs) and also a DC voltage protection checker. if the voltage across the circuit's input ever get to 'dangerous DC' for too long, the relay takes the headphones out of the circuit. there is also a turn-off non-delay (grin) that tries to remove the phones from the amp before the amp has a chance to send out any close-down squeals or pops

this is a very tight/small circuit - meant to be included in existing amps. I haven't decided which of my amps will get this, yet

 

[Sherwood]

Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxworks /img/forum/go_quote.gif this is a turn-on delay (about 3 secs) and also a DC voltage protection checker.

Pardon me, good sir 'Works, but why socket opamps in a turn-on delay circuit? Rather, what benefit would be gained by swapping them?

 

[linuxworks]

the default decision is 'always socket unless you are sure. and even then, socket'

would sockets hurt here? nothing is high speed, so, no harm.

is cost an issue? ha! this is head-fi (lol).

can the installer (me) make a mistake and have to unsolder things? yup - likely!

judges decision: install sockets!

..so there you go

 

[Sherwood]

Alright, pretty straight-forward. Though I must say, from the look of those solder joints I doubt you spend much time huddled over an opamp with a braid...

 

[linuxworks]

thanks.

when I know something is going to be photo'd, I'll dress with extra solder even though its not electrically needed

that means fluxing the top layer and touching it a bit for extra fill-in and niceness. of course that makes removing things harder so you HAVE to be sure before you do this.

some of the fancy shiny blue vishays were not so shiny this time around ;( digikey, you get a B- on the 10k vishays but A+ on the rest of them (lol). I do like it when the parts come out nice and shiny. today's stuffed boards can be so colorful - and I find that cool, actually.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

I was gonna say nice job on the solder puddling but then you cheated and fixed her up

I bet the job would have been sound from the get go...what you did takes skill.

Nice job on the delay BTW

Peete.

 

[Hayduke]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sherwood /img/forum/go_quote.gif Pardon me, good sir 'Works, but why socket opamps in a turn-on delay circuit? Rather, what benefit would be gained by swapping them?

Linux gave acceptable reaoning, but I'll add to it. What if you fry the opamp somehow? They are a fairly sensitive device, so a good static shock could kill it. Then it's a pain to replace. If it's socketed, replacing it is simple.

Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxworks /img/forum/go_quote.gif thanks. when I know something is going to be photo'd, I'll dress with extra solder even though its not electrically needed that means fluxing the top layer and touching it a bit for extra fill-in and niceness. of course that makes removing things harder so you HAVE to be sure before you do this. some of the fancy shiny blue vishays were not so shiny this time around ;( digikey, you get a B- on the 10k vishays but A+ on the rest of them (lol). I do like it when the parts come out nice and shiny. today's stuffed boards can be so colorful - and I find that cool, actually.

Those blue resistors are Vishays? Mine are always that redish brown rust color. A different series perhaps?

I do agree that the blue ones are more more pleasing to the eye. I'm gonna be building another amp soon, so I'd like to use those.

 

[cetoole]

Yeah, the blue resistors are Vishays, CMF50 I believe. They are great looking parts, and good performance, about the same as RN55, but much more expensive.

Linux, you seem to be setting a trend for good soldering and photography. Keep it up, looks great!

 

[_atari_]

Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxworks /img/forum/go_quote.gif the AMB.org epsilon12: this is a turn-on delay (about 3 secs) and also a DC voltage protection checker. if the voltage across the circuit's input ever get to 'dangerous DC' for too long, the relay takes the headphones out of the circuit. there is also a turn-off non-delay (grin) that tries to remove the phones from the amp before the amp has a chance to send out any close-down squeals or pops

Hi be sure to check G1/G2 again. I had massive problems with bad sound, offset and stuff like that. Until I realised that G1 ist connected to G2 and vice versa (at least in the version I own). And from your pictures I ca see that you are only use G1.

But apart from that: I am just jealous (build & photo quality)!

Best regards

_atari_

 

[linuxworks]

hi atari,

the version I have has the fixed pc board. I'll doublecheck though - thanks for the tip

in fact I'm going to be using all 4 inputs. I spoke with AMB and wanted to have a poor man's mute button leveraged from this mute-relay board. the trick is to use the 4th ground wire (they are ALL the same, no difference between 'hot' and ground on this voltage-summer) and send something 'high' (like a TTL 1) and that will 'tip' the circuit and cause a muting effect. I'm planning on just having a toggle on my IR receiver that goes to this 4th gnd pad. a real cheap and simple mute on/off via remote - using the protection circuit for double duty!

btw, I used no flash on the photo - my lighting style is to put the camera on a tripod, use selftimer (to trigger itself shake-free) and give it a long exposure (high f-stop number) which lets me THEN wave lights around from different angles - illuminating the subject 'evenly' before the shutter finally closes up again. I call it 'flying lights' for obvious reasons

even a flashlight (in motion, never stopped) will do if you have a several second long exposure time. and be sure to set the EV to the minus direction since you are flooding the subject with more light than the light meter had 'planned' on.

 

[fordgtlover]

linuxworks

your photography is amazing. I'm going to stop posting photos of my builds. My poor photos feel embarrassed near yours.

 

[Fred_fred2004]

linuxworks

Any hints about how to get such good photos without having to spend a fortune, because they are truly fantastic quality

 

[amb]

linuxworks, The input G1 is connected to the output G2 (and vice versa) on all ε12s. See the schematic. I should fix the silkscreen labels but it's much easier to change the schematic.

 

[grawk]

A picture of the balanced m3 cetoole is repairing for me. Such a work of art.

 

[MASantos]

What are those round thingies near the pot? Input caps?