[Edwood]

Quote:

Originally Posted by individual6891 Can the MINT fit in that Hammond (I presume the smallest version?) without cutting?

Yes, but you will have to use smaller caps. I used 470uF Panasonic FC's, and they are too tall to fit. 220uF will definitely fit, but not sure about 320's.

Also, wiring will be more of a challenge as there will be less room.

-Ed

 

[__redruM]

Over Christmas, I put these two amps together.

My new mint, I put together in 1 evening, case work and all:

It has the 8620 with the 634s and has been biased into class A using the CRD. I also used a 220Ohm resistor for R11

The PPA took a lot longer:

I added the Bass Boost, and the crossfeed. I'm probably going to get a new volume knob, and another switch to make all three switches identical, but it's working great.

I used 6 of the 5002 buffers and the 8610s

The most difficult part was the crossfeed. It had 16 wires and it was large enough to make mounting difficult as well.

 

[Guust-Fi]

Here's my pc switch box. I know, this is my first soldering project and the pictures suck. I made them with a friends crap digital camera and yes, I know I need to buy one myself these days

Anyway, it just a simple box and it switches between a cdp or pc as source and my headamp or speakers as output. I might add the buttons to mute my mic later but that means I need to go to the shop... man, vacation makes you lazy

Btw those wires are solid and I believe I won't be using them in the future anymore. They leave to much stress on the soldering and they are just too difficult to work with.

 

[individual6891]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Guust-Fi Here's my pc switch box.

Case is massive!

 

[Nisbeth]

Quote:

Originally Posted by individual6891 Can the MINT fit in that Hammond (I presume the smallest version?) without cutting?

Yep!

From: http://www.nisbeth.dk/uffe/pages/gallery/mint.html


/U.

 

[digitaldave]

I built my first DIY project today, a CMOY headphone amplifier. It proved a little more difficult than using tangent's guide, as I had to use regular strip board, not the fancy stuff that you guys in the US have access to

. Also, I had problems soldering, as my iron is a cheap one from Maplin, and it probably needs either a new tip or thowing in the bin

. Also, I don't have anything to hold things whilst soldering, so that was fun

.

Anyway, here's a pic:

Tomorrow's project - see if it will fit in the case I have put aside for it...

Dave.

 

[Guust-Fi]

Quote:

Originally Posted by individual6891 Case is massive!

I know, and you haven't even seen it wit the lid on

 

[halman]

Here is my implementation of the SDS-labs headphone amp. njoy

 

[boodi]

Quote:

Originally Posted by strogg the K-12M from S5 electronics in a custom aluminum enclosure painted... an odd color and then clearcoated. even though the electronics part took me just one day to complete, the case and some tweaks/improvements took the whole holiday break!!! the amp drives my akg's like a dream. it put enough bass in those things to make me completely satisfied with both the quality and the volume of bass! unbelievable, no? the power recepticle is a 5 amp EMI filter i picked up at hsc, which goes to shielded (thanks aerius) transformers to a cheaply tweaked out board in triode mode, then out again on the cheapest rat shack jack i can find (yeah... i'm cheap) with a pair of 5 ohm wirewound resistors to sort of match the impedence. all of this is switched on and off by a heavy duty 15 amp switch (just so it can make a loud clicky sound )

I'm kind of impressed ( I like it , it's very beautiful to me )
I really wonder how it sounds on akg k501..
It could need some covering lid though on the front to prevent damages..didn't you think about building one for it?

 

[strogg]

i'd build a lid cover thing for it but A: i'm too lazy, and B: much of it will be exposed anyway due to ventilation. in retrospect, that case i chose wasn't the best choice, considering i spent a grand total of 5 seconds thinking about it. anyhow, i figure that as long as i'm careful and i put a warning sign up, everything will be hunky dory.

as for the sound, it's hard to compare since the best headphone amp i've ever used is a go-vibe. but first impressions on it is pretty much really really good. the detail is immense, and i wish i had a better source to compare it to (emu0404 is the best i have). the headphones also sound very dynamic, adding a bit of extra depth to a not-so-deep soundstage. but the thing that hit me the most is the bass. it's there, rearing its head very prominently. it's tight and it's detailed. i am very impressed and quite happy with it overall.
as for the highs, it did something to it that's hard to describe in words. for some reason, listening to the headphones with the govibe made the highs fatiguing to me; it made me want to stop listening to it after an hour. with these headphones, the highs are... just right. no fatigue. it's detailed and crisp as it should be.
to the mids, vienna teng never sounded so good. but uh... that's all i can say about it for now.
i'm not sure, but the overall sound may have ended up faster, ie, the thumps of a drum or the strumming of the guitar begin and finish without me thinking it's sluggish.

i personally think the k-12m is well worth the investment if you are willing to tweak the electronics a bit.

 

[Cordmore]

Finished this CMoy the other day and I'm pretty happy about getting it to work. Like daveabrey, I had to use a regular board and thinking through how to connect all the things was the most fun part of the project.

Those white wires were as difficult to use (due to their stiffness) as they are ugly

 

[chillysalsa]

Finally! Finished the Dynahi last week. It's sounding incredible! DC offset is 5 and 6 mV cold, and falls to <1mV when warmed up. Here are the pics:

Par-metals, 20-series cases, deep blue LED and illuminated power switch, Neutrik 1/4" jacks (Mouser P/N:550-NMJ6HCS), Alps 23Pos stepped attenuator w/ Holco resistors.
I am still waiting for the diycable volume knob, I don't really like the feel of that one, and want one a little bigger diamater.

LEDs - I sanded it down flat and mounted it directly into the front pannel.

Back panel: gold plated RCA or 3.5mm inputs. DIY power cable with techflex.

Inside: massive 10x4x3.5" heat sink with a thick base plate. The trasistors and bolted directly to it, with pure silver paste for thermal contact. Temp is <60ºC after several hours.

2 power supplies, rated at 30V @ 4A, with <1mV ripple, in separate enclosure:

 

[dgardner]

Very, very nice. What's going on with those output stage transistors? Looks like jumper wires there.

 

[chillysalsa]

The transistors are bolted directly to the heat sink base, I didn't want to use the L-bracket, because this should have better heat transfer. Yes, I am using pure silver jumper wires. I couldn't figure out any other way to do it without positioning things really awkwardly inside the case. It works quite well, the heat conducts very evenly across all the fins in no time at all.

Waiting to replace the volume knob with this one:

 

[sft]

Great job!
Now i know why you say you are a purist.