ORA GrapheneQ - The world's first Graphene driver headphone
Mar 6, 2020 at 2:50 AM Post #871 of 1,288
Did anyone notice a difference in sound quality after bending the headband to fit your head better? The drivers being placed so high up on the baffle seemed to have messed up my initial impressions straight out of the box when I could barely fit them on my head. Seems better balanced now with a lot more mids present.

Yes. I mention this in one of my previous posts. IMO, clamping force & fit is important with this HP. Luckily for me, the most natural spectral balance or tonality is when the earpads are "just right" as far as comfort & fit (the Goldielocks phenomenon, haha). i.e. just enough clamping force to keep a consistent seal around my largish ears. To do this, I needed to expand the headband a fair bit. They were much too tight out of the box.

I have an average size head, and I only have the yokes extended a little bit...about 1/4"-3/8" max on each side. If I wear them too low on my ears/head, the bottom point of the teardrop-shaped earpads puts uncomfortable pressure on my neck & jaw below my ears.

I've been wearing them for about 4 hours so far this evening listening to Sean Foran's new "Frame Of Reference" jazz album and Fila Brazillia's new "MMXX" EP among other stuff on BandCamp, and they are just a joy to listen to and very comfortable. The tonality, detail retrieval, and imaging are excellent. There is absolutely no listening fatigue...I could listen to these all day and all night.

They remind me of why I like my "kick around" pair of AKG K553 Pro's...very easy-listening, with a neutral spectral balance. But the GQs are just much better in terms of detail retreival, realism, dynamics, and soundstage.

They do get just a bit warm on my ears after a while, but all closed-backs I've owned have been that way. I just take a quick moment every so often to pull the earcups off of my ears and get some fresh, cool air in there and it's fine.

So far they are still just a wee bit bloated in the mid-bass, and I'd still like just a bit more "air" in the top end, as I posted earlier. But I haven't even been compelled to reach for the PEQ or Sonarworks 4 yet. Though I've wanted not to do that in order to see how they (or I) "burn-in", and then compare them with my other new-in-box GQ pair.
 
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Mar 6, 2020 at 2:43 PM Post #872 of 1,288
Did anyone notice a difference in sound quality after bending the headband to fit your head better? The drivers being placed so high up on the baffle seemed to have messed up my initial impressions straight out of the box when I could barely fit them on my head. Seems better balanced now with a lot more mids present.

ORA has specifically mentioned the driver position being deliberately high and based on extensive testing.

I'm only now using my GQs fully extended and curving downwards over my ears. Not sure if the sound is better or worse yet, so it can't make a huge difference with my setup or hearing ability, but it's definitely more comfortable.

Edit: I take that back. Having heard a more diverse selection of music, the sound is 100% better when the earcups are extended by the minimum amount possible for the cups to fit around my ears.
 
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Mar 6, 2020 at 3:24 PM Post #873 of 1,288
Did anyone notice a difference in sound quality after bending the headband to fit your head better? The drivers being placed so high up on the baffle seemed to have messed up my initial impressions straight out of the box when I could barely fit them on my head. Seems better balanced now with a lot more mids present.
It's going to vary wildly, person to person. I had no need to bend the headband. As they say, YMMV. Getting the earcups to couple properly to the sides of your head for a secure fit can definitely improve the presentation and probably your personal comfort.
 
Mar 6, 2020 at 4:43 PM Post #874 of 1,288
It's going to vary wildly, person to person. I had no need to bend the headband. As they say, YMMV. Getting the earcups to couple properly to the sides of your head for a secure fit can definitely improve the presentation and probably your personal comfort.

I agree.

Tinkering with the cups makes a big difference in the results. Where the cups sit on the head, if you set the headband or earcups at an angle or not, etc.

Once I dialed it all in, it sounds great where I wear it now.

I’m also tinkering around with mods, so I’ll update the thread once I find something of interest.
 
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Mar 6, 2020 at 5:44 PM Post #875 of 1,288
I agree.

Tinkering with the cups makes a big difference in the results. Where the cups sit on the head, if you set the headband or earcups at an angle or not, etc.

Once I dialed it all in, it sounds great where I wear it now.

I’m also tinkering around with mods, so I’ll update the thread once I find something of interest.
I knew you couldn't possibly be totally happy with it until you tinker with your set a bit!
 
Mar 6, 2020 at 10:55 PM Post #876 of 1,288
This is probably a no-brainer question, but, surprisingly, Google isn’t giving me the info I want. I read some review on the ORA GQ’s where the first thing the reviewer noticed wasn’t the frequency response, but the seeming lack of a distortion profile. What is a distortion profile? Does it have to do with ear fatigue from the sound signature? Is there an easy way to compare distortion profiles on headphones? Where can I hear examples of this?

I’ve had these headphones for eight days now and love them because of their sound and the amount of time I can endure listening to them. I’m no expert, but there’s something about the way the GQ headphones sound where, especially after A/B comparing to my other headphones I used to wear all the time (Avantree Audition BT), the sound is “smoother,” or more comfortable to listen to on the GQ’s in a unique way I’ve never experienced on other headphones. This is apparent to me within seconds of swapping from one to the other, on the same sample of audio at roughly the same volume off Spotify on my iPhone 8, both tested over bluetooth (I think 5.0). I can’t pinpoint exactly the characteristic it is or if it’s a combination of things. I have a feeling it has to do with distortion, but it could also have to do with the way it isolates me from external noise, the engineering of the driver and/or the enclosure, etc. I’m not sure.

Any ideas?
 
Mar 7, 2020 at 5:49 AM Post #877 of 1,288
This is probably a no-brainer question, but, surprisingly, Google isn’t giving me the info I want. I read some review on the ORA GQ’s where the first thing the reviewer noticed wasn’t the frequency response, but the seeming lack of a distortion profile. What is a distortion profile? Does it have to do with ear fatigue from the sound signature? Is there an easy way to compare distortion profiles on headphones? Where can I hear examples of this?

I’ve had these headphones for eight days now and love them because of their sound and the amount of time I can endure listening to them. I’m no expert, but there’s something about the way the GQ headphones sound where, especially after A/B comparing to my other headphones I used to wear all the time (Avantree Audition BT), the sound is “smoother,” or more comfortable to listen to on the GQ’s in a unique way I’ve never experienced on other headphones. This is apparent to me within seconds of swapping from one to the other, on the same sample of audio at roughly the same volume off Spotify on my iPhone 8, both tested over bluetooth (I think 5.0). I can’t pinpoint exactly the characteristic it is or if it’s a combination of things. I have a feeling it has to do with distortion, but it could also have to do with the way it isolates me from external noise, the engineering of the driver and/or the enclosure, etc. I’m not sure.

Any ideas?

Sorry, this is going to be a LONG answer, LOL! See my TL;DR in the two Bold sections below. :wink:

IMO, saying a headphone or driver has a distortion "profile" is somewhat erronous terminology. But I guess that it's true that most of the typical mylar drivers used in headphones have typical distortion in similar areas or ranges. It's just the physics of the materials being used at this time.

The entire premise of using the GrapheneQ cone diaphragms in these headphones is to significantly lower any distortion that the driver produces. Any type of distortion is typically what causes harshness and listening fatigue, and it also affects ALL other aspects of the SQ. Ideally, you want to have a SMOOTH Frequency Response and a FR that is well-balanced and pleasing to the ear, such as what the Harman Target Curve is known to provide.

If there is no distortion in the original source signal, but the headphones or speakers that reproduce that signal DO have varying degrees of distortion, then what you hear will not be accurate to the original source.


All pistonic/cone/dome transducers or drivers will have varying degrees of distortion, and the amount is typically frequency-dependent. You will always have more distortion when you reach the upper and lower frequency limits of the driver.

There are even-order and odd-order harmonics (distortion), and also Inter-Modulation Distortion (IMD). Odd-order harmonics and IMD are considered to be more displeasing to the ear, i.e. the 3rd, 5th, 7th order harmonics, etc.

Even-order harmonics are basically a full octave from the fundamental frequency...like playing a middle 'C' note and a high 'C' note on any two identical instruments at the same time. It sounds "okay" because it is an even mutiple of the original note. But you don't want a speaker or driver to create that second note on its own when it should only play the single, original note. ANY harmonic distortion being introduced by the driver that was not in the original signal can be considered detrimental to SQ.

Not very many headphone manufacturers are willing to provide the Distortion Measurements for the drivers they use. That would give competitors something to measure against. :wink:

The best way to do this is to measure the individual driver with a Klippel Analyzer, which is a VERY expensive laser measurement device. Very few manufacturers invest in a Klippel Analyzer due to the cost, and both the setup and the test conditions are very strict and must be precise to obtain accurate results. Many manufacturers will send their drivers out to specialized measurement & testing facilities such as Warkwyn or Redrock Acoustics.

DISTORTION - What To Look For:

When distortion measurements are provided, you generally want to look for all of the even- and odd-order harmonics to be 30dB BELOW the measured fundamental frequency (within the intended range or passband of the driver). Ideally, any odd-order harmonics should be much lower in amplitude than the even-order harmonics. The initial 2nd order harmonic will typically be the highest in amplitude, and this is much better than it being an odd-order harmonic.

When there is less than a 30dB difference in amplitude between the fundamental frequency and the harmonic distortion that is created, we can start to hear it enough that it alters the quality of the original signal. For most of the audible frequency range, it's generally accepted that we can start to detect distortion when it's ~3% or more. Distortion in bass frequencies is more difficult for us to detect, so limits can surprisingly be up to ~10%.


The best way to show or illustrate Distortion is on a measurement GRAPH. Look at the two graphs below. The first graph shows a 28mm Soft Dome Tweeter being tested at an SPL level of 90dB. In the second graph, it is tested at 96dB to show potential changes in the distortion with increased output (very little in this case which is good)!

The solid black line in the graph from left to right is the fundamental or main Frequency Response of a very good 28mm Soft Dome Tweeter measured by Erin H. at Erin's Audio Corner (Link Below).

The vertical scale at the left side of the graph shows the SPL level of the Frequency Response and of the Distortion products in dB. The distortion products are shown with different colored lines, and each color represents a different odd- or even-order harmonic that the tweeter is producing.

Notice that over the usable frequency range of the tweeter (starting about 1kHz and up on the graph), all of the even- and odd-order distortion is at least 30dB lower on the vertical scale from the fundamental frequency response (the black line). This is considered EXCELLENT performance.

If those colored lines (distortion) were 10dB or more higher and closer to the fundamental response shown in the black line, then you would definitely start to hear those harmonic distortions as unnatural, harsh, fatiguing sound, sound that isn't present in the original source signal. Not good.

This type of distortion is one of the main things that ORA was trying to improve by using the GrapheneQ diaphragms. When driver cones flex and/or have resonant ringing or break-up modes that aren't part of the voice coil's movement following the original input signal, the cones create secondary "waves" that cause distortion, and that produces anomolies including uneven frequency & phase response, and unwanted resonances.

These anomolies affect ALL aspects of the speaker's or headphone's performance, such as Tonal Accuracy & Balance, Dynamics, Clarity, Detail, Focus, Imaging & Soundstage Width, Depth, & Height, etc. Distortion masks details and colors the original signal.

TL;DR ...The use of the GrapheneQ cone material helps to eliminate distortion by a significant degree. This why the GQ headphones are so pleasant and "easy" to listen to. :) You are hearing the original input signal being reproduced without all of the negative byproducts of distortion that are typical in traditional headphone drivers and cone materials.

Below is the link to the Full Test and Review of the 28mm Soft Dome Tweeter. Reading it and the many other driver tests on Erin's site may help you to better understand the measurements and what they indicate in terms of expected performance. FYI, Erin has just ordered a new Klippel Analyzer, and will be doing more loudspeaker driver testing soon. His day job is basically as a rocket scientist analyst for NASA, but lucky for us he's a huge audio nut as well. :wink:

Gladen Aerospace 28mm Tweeter Test & Review - Erin's Audio Corner

Testing done in the nearfield to 90dB (first graph) and 96dB (second graph) @ 1m output equivalents...
gladen-aerospace-28mm-HD-90dB.png


gladen-aerospace-28mm-HD-96dB.png


As far as test tracks to hear examples of different levels and types of distortion, some of the Stereophile Magazine Test CDs have good distortion demonstration tracks. There are also good examples in the Autosound 2000 Test Discs #101-#104. These Test CDs let you play an original "clean" music track, and then listen to several additional samples of the same track but with increased distortion added to each one. This is an excellent way to train your ears to listen for and detect distortion, and to see at what level you can reliably detect it. :wink: Once you know what to listen for, it is fairly easy to detect. :)

Have you tried comparing the performance between using Bluetooth on your iPhone 8 and using the GQ headphones wired to the 3.5mm headphone output?
 
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Mar 7, 2020 at 2:01 PM Post #878 of 1,288
I knew you couldn't possibly be totally happy with it until you tinker with your set a bit!

haha, you guys know me all too well!

As with everything I own, I had the entire thing disassembled and examined within 15 minutes of taking it out of the box.

I haven’t had a whole lot of time to spend with it (tinker wise) until last night.

I’ll post more in depth about it, but I wanted to post a couple of quick thoughts.

1. Kudos to Ora for the electronics. Clearly, a significant portion of the R&D and product cost was spent on the electronics. The boards and circuit design is well laid out and organized. The electronics manufacturing and soldering are top notch as well. All soldering is very well done, and the SMD components are all placed perfectly (by machine and wave soldered I assume). I could be wrong though. Most everything is modular, and attached using plugs (even the drivers), so assembly and warranty repairs are very easy and consistent (for example, it’s impossible to plug the drivers in out of phase).

2. The power/pairing/status LED is ridiculously bright. The blinking blue LED will light up a pitch black bedroom at night and is very distracting. I’m definitely planning to address that. I’ll share details of my fix when I have time to fix it this weekend.

3. The spot where the battery is located has lots of extra room. It could easily be upgraded with a higher capacity battery (looks like about twice the stock capacity might be possible). Or if an upgrade is not wanted/needed, the stock battery is easy to swap out with a replacement battery. This is important, because on Bluetooth headphones it’s the primary maintenance item that wears out besides the ear pads.

4. I am happy to report that all Brainwavz HM5 pads fit over the cups (and seal great), so pad rolling is definitely an option for Ora owners. I own a lot of different HM5 pads to test out, so stay tuned for that. So far I’ve only tried 2 pads, but I will be trying all of the following HM5/3rd party pads I own:
  • Pleather angled
  • Sheepskin
  • Velour
  • Hybrid pleather/velour
  • Senitek fabric
So far, the Senitek fabric pads sound really good, with more balanced sound, bigger soundstage, and increased comfort. But I need to try the rest of my pads before I decide on the best option.

5. In addition to pad rolling (which does change the sound profile), the driver and cups can also be tweaked to shape the sound if one do chooses. Especially lowering the bass by a few dBs, which seems to be a problem area with some people. More to come on that as I continue to try things out. Bottom line is that the Ora is quite moddable.
 
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Mar 7, 2020 at 2:43 PM Post #879 of 1,288
I'm so looking forward to my set as I'm dying to listen. Really enjoying the Blon B20's at the moment. Around the same price (not counting the import tax to come). I remember my first planar headphones those took a while to get my mind around. I have bought and also made a few supposedly graphene ear buds. Still waiting for my shipment notification.....patiently
 
Mar 7, 2020 at 5:15 PM Post #880 of 1,288
Have you tried comparing the performance between using Bluetooth on your iPhone 8 and using the GQ headphones wired to the 3.5mm headphone output?
First off, bbfoto, thank you for the very detailed answer to my question. When I have time I’ll analyze it further.

Second, to answer your question at the end, the short answer is no. I’ll test that out when I get the chance. I use the GQs with my computer with a Presonus Firestudio Project though, so not sure if I’ll be able to tell much of a difference without A/B-ing it. Both pairs of headphones have a 1/8” headphone port.
 
Mar 7, 2020 at 7:51 PM Post #881 of 1,288
As mentioned above, I wanted to address the super bright LED.

The fix is easy (if you’re used to working on electronics).

I make no guarantees that any mods affect your warranty, so proceed at your own risk. You take full responsibility for your actions.

1. Remove the earpad. It is a twist lock design - just gently rotate it a small amount and the pad will come off.

2. Remove the phillips screws that holds the baffle on. Set them aside so you do not lose them.

3. Gently lift up the ear cup baffle. Be careful, because the driver is attached with a short wire (indicated in blue below). Carefully unplug the wire from the circuit board (indicated in yellow below).

8AC43F2B-0B2E-4ECA-BA9B-6596053F0CC5.jpeg
7125CEE7-7478-4D6F-B048-BD1197EA7EBC.jpeg

4. Remove the philips screws that hold the lower (3.5mm audio) circuit board indicated in the photo below. Carefully lift up the circuit board and tilt it out of the way. It is still attached with a number of cables, which I left in place (so be careful).
F1290BB7-AEB3-469C-A6D2-677D0002A165.jpeg

5. Now you will be able to see the small round circuit board for the LED (indicated in yellow below). It is held on by 2 philips screws. Remove the screws and carefully lift up the board. It’s attached with a cable, which I left in place.
7268DC5F-0678-417E-9DBB-7980AB355343.jpeg
8AD63EFC-68E8-4D3C-BD52-31A3D3960898.jpeg

6. Now take a black Sharpie and color the top of the plastic LED lens. I did 2 coats, letting the Sharpie dry for a minute or 2 between coats. What you're doing is similar to wearing sunglasses. You'll still be able to see the LED just fine; it just won't be as blindingly bright. The intensity will be reduced by about 50%.

Before:
AA1B3E57-E850-4422-B249-1CAE8FB8547C.jpeg

After:
4B7475FA-66CB-49AD-81AB-269619448B45.jpeg

7. Carefully reinstall the LED circuit board you removed in step 5, ensuring the wire is routed the way it was originally and not pinched by anything. Reinstall the screws.

8. Carefully reinstall the 3.5mm circuit board you removed in step 4, ensuring the wires are routed the way they were originally and not pinched by anything. Reinstall the screws.

9. Carefully plug the driver back in, ensuring the plug is put back in the same orientation and the wire is routed the way it was originally and not pinched by anything. Reinstall the screws.

10. Replace the ear pad, by setting it in place and gently rotating it back into the proper orientation.

11. Test the headphone to ensure everything is working properly. If something is not working, that means you forgot something (such as a plug or wire), or otherwise made some sort of mistake. Go back through the steps and check your work.

Enjoy!
 
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Mar 7, 2020 at 10:14 PM Post #882 of 1,288
As mentioned above, I wanted to address the super bright LED.

The fix is very easy.

I make no guarantees that any mods affect your warranty, so proceed at your own risk. You take full responsibility for your actions.

1. Remove the earpad. It is a twist lock design - just gently rotate it a small amount and the pad will come off.

2. Remove the phillips screws that holds the baffle on. Set them aside so you do not lose them.

3. Gently lift up the ear cup baffle. Be careful, because the driver is attached with a short wire (indicated in blue below). Carefully unplug the wire from the circuit board (indicated in yellow below).

8AC43F2B-0B2E-4ECA-BA9B-6596053F0CC5.jpeg
7125CEE7-7478-4D6F-B048-BD1197EA7EBC.jpeg

4. Remove the philips screws that hold the lower circuit board indicated in the photo below. Carefully lift up the circuit board and tilt it out of the way. It is still attached with a number of cables, which I left in place (so be careful).
F1290BB7-AEB3-469C-A6D2-677D0002A165.jpeg

5. Now you will be able to see the small round circuit board for the LED (indicated in yellow below). It is held on by 2 philips screws. Remove the screws and carefully lift up the board. It’s attached with a cable, which I left in place.
7268DC5F-0678-417E-9DBB-7980AB355343.jpeg
8AD63EFC-68E8-4D3C-BD52-31A3D3960898.jpeg

6. Now take a black Sharpie and color the top of the plastic LED lens. I did 2 coats, letting the Sharpie dry for a minute or 2 between coats. What you're doing is similar to wearing sunglasses. You'll still be able to see the LED just fine; it won't be as blindingly bright.

Before:
AA1B3E57-E850-4422-B249-1CAE8FB8547C.jpeg

After:
4B7475FA-66CB-49AD-81AB-269619448B45.jpeg

7. Carefully reinstall the LED circuit board you removed in step 5, ensuring the wire is routed the way it was originally and not pinched by anything. Reinstall the screws.

8. Carefully reinstall the 3.5mm circuit board you removed in step 4, ensuring the wires are routed the way they were originally and not pinched by anything. Reinstall the screws.

9. Carefully plug the driver back in, ensuring the plug is put back in the same orientation and the wire is routed the way it was originally and not pinched by anything. Reinstall the screws.

10. Replace the ear pad, by setting it in place and gently rotating it back into the proper orientation.

11. Test the headphone to ensure everything is working properly. If something is not working, that means you forgot something (such as a plug or wire), or otherwise made some sort of mistake. Go back through the steps and check your work.

Enjoy!

Not to undercut your advice and methods, but couldn’t you cover the LED part of the headphone encluser with some scotch tape (to protect the enclosure), use one of those really thin black pen sharpies to color the LED black, and remove the scotch tape when you’re done?
Either that, or just find duct tape that’s similar enough in color to the woodgrain and just cover the LED part? The latter is at least reversible if you change your mind.
 
Mar 8, 2020 at 7:12 AM Post #883 of 1,288
As mentioned above, I wanted to address the super bright LED.

The fix is very easy.

That looks far from easy to me. I hope the LED is off when using them wired. If not, if my husband's pair ever does arrive, I won't want them being used near me. Blue LEDs really hurt my eyes. I thought people were becoming more aware of the problems with blue LEDs and using more red and green.
 
Mar 8, 2020 at 8:51 AM Post #884 of 1,288
Not to undercut your advice and methods, but couldn’t you cover the LED part of the headphone encluser with some scotch tape (to protect the enclosure), use one of those really thin black pen sharpies to color the LED black, and remove the scotch tape when you’re done?
Either that, or just find duct tape that’s similar enough in color to the woodgrain and just cover the LED part? The latter is at least reversible if you change your mind.

Sure, there’s lots of ways to address the problem. The way I did it was just 1 method, but it certainly isn’t the only way.

Just covering the LED hole with duct tape from the outside of the shell is the absolute easiest way, and wouldn’t require any tools or opening anything. I still want to be able to see the LED to know when the battery is low, the Bluetooth status, etc.

As far as using a fine tipped Sharpie, the hole in the ear cup is too small. It’s maybe 1mm big. That’s why I had to get to the LED from the inside. Can’t get to it with a sharpie from the outside.

You may be able to use some translucent paint on the tip of a sewing needle or sharp toothpick, and try to get to the LED from the outside hole. But there’s so many ways that could go wrong...
 
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Mar 8, 2020 at 8:53 AM Post #885 of 1,288
That looks far from easy to me. I hope the LED is off when using them wired. If not, if my husband's pair ever does arrive, I won't want them being used near me. Blue LEDs really hurt my eyes. I thought people were becoming more aware of the problems with blue LEDs and using more red and green.

You’ll be fine when using them wired. The LED is only on when using Bluetooth.
 

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