[Whitigir]

I remember seeing this about the AK380 SS:

"machined from solid blocks of stainless steel, which is strong, non-corrosive and durable, with any wear easily polished away."

Does that mean you could polish scratches away? I'm not sure if anyone has tried.

Anything that is Metal, you can buff and repolish. It is the process of taking layers off the metal surface in the smoothest ways and then apply protective polish on it by buffing again with polish or clear protective coating. The same as car body work and details. It is just that SS is much harder and is better to work on this way than soft metal such as Copper

 

[jscmd2000]

Does anyone know if the original AK CD ripper, not the new MKII, is compatible with SP1000?

 

[JasonNYC]

Does anyone know if the original AK CD ripper, not the new MKII, is compatible with SP1000?

Yes, the 1st gen is compatible with the SP1000.

 

[jscmd2000]

Yes, the 1st gen is compatible with the SP1000.

Nice~ Thank you!

 

[Sound Eq]

is there any news about having an external amp that gets attached to sp1000

 

[TYATYA]

I remember seeing this about the AK380 SS:

"machined from solid blocks of stainless steel, which is strong, non-corrosive and durable, with any wear easily polished away."

Does that mean you could polish scratches away? I'm not sure if anyone has tried.

I meant SP1000 ss body is easier to be scratched on surface than Alu AK models. Anodize Alu is very tough.
You can guess this : apply a load of 10N by a 3.5 jack and slide your hand, a scratch have been made.

Also sp1000's back cover is VERY LOSE AND WEAK.

 

[olddude]

? Maybe yours is, mine is not.

And I'm not so sure anodized aluminum is more scratch resistant than is stainless steel. I have no desire to find out, however.

 

[LightSaber]

I meant SP1000 ss body is easier to be scratched on surface than Alu AK models. Anodize Alu is very tough.
You can guess this : apply a load of 10N by a 3.5 jack and slide your hand, a scratch have been made.

Also sp1000's back cover is VERY LOSE AND WEAK.

Mine is also not lose and weak.

 

[R7photo]

Anyone guess or have info on sq of black version?

 

[olddude]

It's just paint.

 

[TYATYA]

Mine is also not lose and weak.

You should compare relatively to others AKs

 

[TYATYA]

? Maybe yours is, mine is not.

And I'm not so sure anodized aluminum is more scratch resistant than is stainless steel. I have no desire to find out, however.

Confirm easily.
I dont tend to like or dislike what I bought. Just use straight words to say.
Hit figure tip on back of sp1000, it makes sound, I say it's weak.
Someone dont think it is weak, he or she can call whatever they like. My opinion, it is not strong or solid.
If anyone have an unit that dont make sound/noise when hit by figure tip, okay that means my unit has an individual matter

 

[Samuel777]

Confirm easily.
I dont tend to like or dislike what I bought. Just use straight words to say.
Hit figure tip on back of sp1000, it makes sound, I say it's weak.
Someone dont think it is weak, he or she can call whatever they like. My opinion, it is not strong or solid.
If anyone have an unit that dont make sound/noise when hit by figure tip, okay that means my unit has an individual matter

I agree for the price it costs, the build quality should be better than what we can see in the picture, specially the SP1000 SS.

 

[tienbasse]

? Maybe yours is, mine is not.

And I'm not so sure anodized aluminum is more scratch resistant than is stainless steel. I have no desire to find out, however.

The issue is not about hardness, it is about surface finish being more or less prone to micro-scratches.
SS is harder than duralium, although duralium is already MUCH harder than simple aluminium.

But since the SS SP1000 has a polished finish, it is a fingerprint / micro-scratch magnet.
The normal AK versions (duralium-made) have a mat anodized finish with a pretty rough powder coat. So micro-scratches and fingerprints will be much less noticable because the surface doesn't reflect much light compared to the SS finish. This doesn't mean that it is more resistant.

SS surfaces are always a pain to maintain because they're always relatively well polished to avoid presenting rough textures that can allow corrosion to take hold. Brushed finish is not really better (marginally better for fingerprints, just as bad for scratches).

 

[bflat]

I agree for the price it costs, the build quality should be better than what we can see in the picture, specially the SP1000 SS.

I just got some relevant info on this when recently buying an Apple watch. The stainless steel model is prone to scratches and Apple recommends getting the watch professionally polished when needed. They also have a stainless steel model with a special black coating that is less prone to scratches, but scratches are permanent.

Having owned a prior anodized aluminum Apple watch, I can't even give that one away with so many scratches on it.

What I have concluded is that there is no such thing as a scratch proof metal or glass for that matter. IMHO, you have a few choices:

1) Assume you will create scratches over time and by the time it bothers you, just get a new or upgraded model. Buy the aluminum model as it is cheaper with the same features.
2) You plan to keep your device a long time and want a relatively inexpensive way to refinish you device to near new. Buy the stainless steel model.
3) Must have stainless, don't want to polish, and will be extra careful. Buy the coated stainless steel model.

Of course, I will defer any discussion on the audio characteristics of the different metals. This is strictly from the cosmetic point of view. I am curious though about the SP1000 Onyx Black - is it purely cosmetic or is the black coating similar to what Apple did for their black stainless chassis?