[AuRiMaS666]

Maybe a little late to the party, but still... Joining the SS2590/SIL 992 gang today. Huge thanks to @Dramlin and @EternalChampion for detailed reviews and installation advice!

 

[Dramlin]

Now that is a setup! Congrats!

Ever since I finalized my setup with those op amps I haven't second guessed the accuracy for even a moment. It's amazing. Enjoy!

 

[dpeterfy32]

Hello. I bought a Conductor 3XP device and I have a problem with it. my problem is that when using USB with a PC and using the 3XP pre out xlr output with an active speaker, sometimes a scary, loud popping sound comes out of the speaker, which literally scares me. There is something even scarier than that... sometimes it makes a sound as if something is shaking the speakers. crackling sound and awfully loud and scary too. what do you think? let me point out in advance, the xlr cable and speaker must work perfectly, they cannot be the source of the error. I welcome any useful information. this scary popping and "shaking" sound is there even if the 3XP is in preout or hp out mode. In fact, he did it even when he did not receive an active signal from any input, the 3XP was only switched on in idle mode!! Please help me find the problem, because the 3XP device is unusable!

 

[Metron]

Hello. I bought a Conductor 3XP device and I have a problem with it. my problem is that when using USB with a PC and using the 3XP pre out xlr output with an active speaker, sometimes a scary, loud popping sound comes out of the speaker, which literally scares me. There is something even scarier than that... sometimes it makes a sound as if something is shaking the speakers. crackling sound and awfully loud and scary too. what do you think? let me point out in advance, the xlr cable and speaker must work perfectly, they cannot be the source of the error. I welcome any useful information. this scary popping and "shaking" sound is there even if the 3XP is in preout or hp out mode. In fact, he did it even when he did not receive an active signal from any input, the 3XP was only switched on in idle mode!! Please help me find the problem, because the 3XP device is unusable!

Try connecting your digital signal via Toslink, instead of USB, and see if it's still happening. If it made no difference, then disconnect the Conductor from the electrical outlet, wait an hour, then open the Conductor and press down firmly (but gently) on each of the op amps to make sure they are all sitting properly on the board.

 

[Metron]

I don't think I ever posted any pictures of my setup with the Sparkos SS2590 Duals and SI 992 singles. EternalChampion posted some pictures previously, but my install differed by just a little bit. Both install types work fine:



Also, it's been a few months since I went to the configuration above. I haven't ever had a single thought that there is anything wrong with any aspect of the sound. There's always the chance that there is something better out there, but this sounds about as pure as I can want. I hope Burson takes note of this configuration so they can design the V7's to deliver this type of quality from a stock configuration in the Conductor 4 Reference. They've got the amp design down wonderfully, just need to refine their V6's to match the above op amp combo.

To what extent do you think this advice could be applied to a Conductor 3 Performance?

 

[dpeterfy32]

Try connecting your digital signal via Toslink, instead of USB, and see if it's still happening. If it made no difference, then disconnect the Conductor from the electrical outlet, wait an hour, then open the Conductor and press down firmly (but gently) on each of the op amps to make sure they are all sitting properly on the board.

thank you, I will start investigating the error based on this, I will apply again if I have looked at these and the problem still exists. if it does this via toslink and I reconnect the 4pc v6 Vivid opamp and the problem persists, what could be the possible problem? can't a defective factory power supply do this? it comes with a very simple power supply from the factory... ifi elite 24v/2.5A would be good enough for the conductor 3XP power supply? because the factory switch is 24v/3a, and it is also on the back of the conductor device.

 

[Metron]

thank you, I will start investigating the error based on this, I will apply again if I have looked at these and the problem still exists. if it does this via toslink and I reconnect the 4pc v6 Vivid opamp and the problem persists, what could be the possible problem? can't a defective factory power supply do this? it comes with a very simple power supply from the factory... ifi elite 24v/2.5A would be good enough for the conductor 3XP power supply? because the factory switch is 24v/3a, and it is also on the back of the conductor device.

Does it present this problem with headphones?
I wouldn’t try a power supply with less Amps than nominal; also check the polarity of the alternative PSU to avoid burning your Conductor.

 

[dpeterfy32]

Does it present this problem with headphones?
I wouldn’t try a power supply with less Amps than nominal; also check the polarity of the alternative PSU to avoid burning your Conductor.

yes, if I remember correctly, he did it with headphones a few days ago, luckily I wasn't wearing it at the time. I just unplugged the usb cable from the pc, changed the input to toslink and turned on the tv, using the preout output with a sound wall. we'll see if there's a scary crackle or pop... then I'll write. what I forgot to say.. when the 3XP arrived, the first day I started using it, it did what it thought, and the sound went away from one moment to the next.. also with the pc-usb connection.. it was completely silent.. only then did the sound come back if I turned off the device and turned it on again... this could be important information to uncover the error.

 

[Metron]

yes, if I remember correctly, he did it with headphones a few days ago, luckily I wasn't wearing it at the time. I just unplugged the usb cable from the pc, changed the input to toslink and turned on the tv, using the preout output with a sound wall. we'll see if there's a scary crackle or pop... then I'll write. what I forgot to say.. when the 3XP arrived, the first day I started using it, it did what it thought, and the sound went away from one moment to the next.. also with the pc-usb connection.. it was completely silent.. only then did the sound come back if I turned off the device and turned it on again... this could be important information to uncover the error.

OK, good luck. If none of this work, you can also try replacing the op amps with the spare black ones that came with your Conductor. In the meantime also contact Burson for instructions on the op amp rolling and advice on troubleshooting. Hope this helps.

 

[dpeterfy32]

OK, good luck. If none of this work, you can also try replacing the op amps with the spare black ones that came with your Conductor. In the meantime also contact Burson for instructions on the op amp rolling and advice on troubleshooting. Hope this helps.

220 euros for the 4 v6 opamps that are included... others buy them for hard money to improve the sound quality of their devices. I simply would not be able to understand if the OWN opamp in the Burson audio did not work properly in my OWN devices.

 

[dpeterfy32]

OK, good luck. If none of this work, you can also try replacing the op amps with the spare black ones that came with your Conductor. In the meantime also contact Burson for instructions on the op amp rolling and advice on troubleshooting. Hope this helps.

ahhhh…. but I was scared again, my stomach also convulsed... this terrible sound also came through toslink, as if the electricity was literally shaking the speakers... very unpleasant and terrifying... I now pulled the power cable from the device. I'll wait an hour and open it... can't you give me a link on how to correctly insert the opamp into the 3XP device? I guess the assemblers of the device weren't so stupid that they would have replaced anything, but I'd rather check it to be safe. when I'm sure it's plugged in well, I pull out all four and push them firmly back into place. then I turn the device back on and use it to see if the problem is solved.

 

[dpeterfy32]

OK, good luck. If none of this work, you can also try replacing the op amps with the spare black ones that came with your Conductor. In the meantime also contact Burson for instructions on the op amp rolling and advice on troubleshooting. Hope this helps.

I opened it, this is what I received. is it normal how it is connected? why??? I can't pull the opamp out of it like that.

 

[EternalChampion]

I opened it, this is what I received. is it normal how it is connected? why??? I can't pull the opamp out of it like that.

Just cut those plastic zip ties holding the op-amps. They put those so they won't get out during shipping.

 

[Metron]

220 euros for the 4 v6 opamps that are included... others buy them for hard money to improve the sound quality of their devices. I simply would not be able to understand if the OWN opamp in the Burson audio did not work properly in my OWN devices.

What I meant was to try the spare little black ones (look like ICs) that came with your device just for troubleshooting purposes; i.e., to see whether it's the op amps the problem. If they are, Burson should take care of a replacement under warranty.

 

[Metron]

I opened it, this is what I received. is it normal how it is connected? why??? I can't pull the opamp out of it like that.

I did not suggest (in the first instance) to remove them, just press them down and make sure that they sit securely. Also, you can try removing them and putting them back. BTW, they should be installed correctly by Burson (ortherwise bad things would have already happened), you don't need to reinvent the wheel. Also, contact Burson (on the phone if possible to guide you through this).