[Currawong]

Thanks for clarifying, Currawong! (On a side note, hope you don't mind me asking why is your name is partly "Wong" and you have Chinese Calligraphy on your profile, but from your video of reviews, clearly you do not appear to be Chinese!)

I'm Australian. This is a Currawong.



The calligraphy is Japanese, done by the founder of Aikido.

 

[Wynnytsky]

HI Wynnytsky, do you mind telling me what source you are using ? The thread is so long it is hard to figure this out. Do you use I2S too either directly from streamer or via a DDC? Thanks!

For i2s I started with the Tanly DDC and then went to the Singxer SU-1. When switching tracks of different sample rates I would get a pop with both of these units. The new firmware was supposed to address that but it didn't for me. I basically learned to live with it. I need to try coax spdif again and report back if the issue shows up there. A friend brought over his selection of fancy SPDIF cables and first impression was that was easier to listen to than my $4 monoprice hdmi i2s. Also, he brought a Singxer F1 (spdif only) and when comparing it to the SU-1 (powered by HDPlex LPS) I think I preferred the F1. Also, with the SU-1 it seems like a waste to pay $400 for this thing, pay kitsune another $33 for some little generic DC wire, then open up the SU-1 and remove an entire board and transformer. For that reason I can't recommend the SU-1 if you intend to use an LPS.

The L.K.S. USB-100 looks interesting. It's got the cool display on the front like the Gustard U12, and your not wasting any money on a cheap blue transformer. Would love to know what the verdict is on that thing.

This is where he got his new F1 for $150.
kitsunehifi.com charges $209 for the same thing.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/272752214716?rmvSB=true

To be clear I'm still loving the R2R7 after 6mo and for me i2s is a must have. When I had both the HDMI and SPDIF connected at the same time it was fun jumping inputs via the r2r7's front panel buttons -- depending on the song, the harder high bandwidth input may work better. I got a good deal on an industrial intona that's coming monday. Will be fun comparing that to my w4s recovery.

 

[motberg]

For i2s I started with the Tanly DDC and then went to the Singxer SU-1. When switching tracks of different sample rates I would get a pop with both of these units. The new firmware was supposed to address that but it didn't for me. I basically learned to live with it. I need to try coax spdif again and report back if the issue shows up there. A friend brought over his selection of fancy SPDIF cables and first impression was that was easier to listen to than my $4 monoprice hdmi i2s. Also, he brought a Singxer F1 (spdif only) and when comparing it to the SU-1 (powered by HDPlex LPS) I think I preferred the F1. Also, with the SU-1 it seems like a waste to pay $400 for this thing, pay kitsune another $33 for some little generic DC wire, then open up the SU-1 and remove an entire board and transformer. For that reason I can't recommend the SU-1 if you intend to use an LPS.

The L.K.S. USB-100 looks interesting. It's got the cool display on the front like the Gustard U12, and your not wasting any money on a cheap blue transformer. Would love to know what the verdict is on that thing.

This is where he got his new F1 for $150.
kitsunehifi.com charges $209 for the same thing.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/272752214716?rmvSB=true

To be clear I'm still loving the R2R7 after 6mo and for me i2s is a must have. When I had both the HDMI and SPDIF connected at the same time it was fun jumping inputs via the r2r7's front panel buttons -- depending on the song, the harder high bandwidth input may work better. I got a good deal on an industrial intona that's coming monday. Will be fun comparing that to my w4s recovery.

I think is preferable to follow the Intona with the Recovery... Intona isolates and Recovery reclocks... worked really great for me but I just subbed the Intona with the new Singxer isolater.. I also changed my USB card at the same time so not possible to compare the 2 isolators directly. But I am pretty sure in my system most people would prefer the Recovery after either of the isolators.

 

[Chopin75]

Ok, the more I read, the more confused I am. I was about to buy the Intona (on sale at $300) but now you mentioned this cheaper W4S Recovery, another dilemma. Too many gadgets in computer audio! As you mentioned, and in multiple places I read that you can use both Intona + W4S, so I guess if I get one first & can always add another. I am not keen on using W4s because it requires PS and it seems LPS works best so then I would need to find another device and plug. The intona seems very easy to use, just plug and go. I am using plain MacAir with nothing that isolates it from DAC, so I gather the Intona with galvanic isolation works best to completely isolate the computer noise from the DAC. But presumably the reclocking of W4S also helps?! That is despite having some reclocking in the Intona already ?

 

[motberg]

Ok, the more I read, the more confused I am. I was about to buy the Intona (on sale at $300) but now you mentioned this cheaper W4S Recovery, another dilemma. Too many gadgets in computer audio! As you mentioned, and in multiple places I read that you can use both Intona + W4S, so I guess if I get one first & can always add another. I am not keen on using W4s because it requires PS and it seems LPS works best so then I would need to find another device and plug. The intona seems very easy to use, just plug and go. I am using plain MacAir with nothing that isolates it from DAC, so I gather the Intona with galvanic isolation works best to completely isolate the computer noise from the DAC. But presumably the reclocking of W4S also helps?! That is despite having some reclocking in the Intona already ?

Since this USB clean-power/isolation/reclocking results seem to be very system dependent, I would certainly wait until @Wynnytsky gets his Intona and reports back (if you have the same DAC). Note that the Intona does reclock after the isolation, but iiuc, the clocking used is not as good as that found in the Recovery or the new ISORegen. Also, I would think there should be some Intona´s available also on the used market due to the success of the ISORegen from Uptone Audio. Some folks say that the USB reclocking quality should not matter much, but seems to me there are hundreds of users reporting increases in sound quality by using better clocks (and you can get real crazy with real expensive clocks, like the SOtM ULTRA series of components.) . If you want a simple solution immediately with guaranteed success, I would try the Uptone ISORegen (there is a 30 day return policy), which includes isolation, quality reclocking and power cleaning. It comes with a wal-wart power supply which will be serviceable, but could be improved even further by a quality linear, battery, or supercaps power supply. I have found the ISORegen isolation does not work in my system, but it does work in the majority of instances, and they offer a 30 day trial.

https://uptoneaudio.com/products/iso-regen

Another note, I do not have a R2R7, but I have used my Tanly and SU-1 in 4 different audio GD DAC´s via HDMI i2s and have not had noise when changing sample rates. I use JPlay software. My experience with the SU-1 with the stock power supply was not very good, I thought it sounded very harsh, even after a few days burn in.. but I now use external power supplies for the SU-1 and find that helps a lot reducing the extra high end energy, while still keeping the detail.

Back in August, Intona sent a newsletter to users which implied they had something under development for the audiophile community.. if you like a copy of that email, send me a PM.

 

[Wynnytsky]

My experience with the SU-1 with the stock power supply was not very good, I thought it sounded very harsh, even after a few days burn in.. but I now use external power supplies for the SU-1 and find that helps a lot reducing the extra high end energy, while still keeping the detail.

I had the same experience coming from the Tanly -- and they both had similar power supplies inside so, what's going on there? I had no desire to ride that through a breakin, and I have all these unused taps coming off my HDPlex LPS' that I was die'ing to use.

Too many gadgets in computer audio!

Someone in NJ sold me the recovery for $125 and someone in Florida sold me the industrial Intona for $125. Those are good prices for experimenting and screwing around, but my recommendation to others is to strive for something that fits in one box (those little curious cables aren't cheap!). It's infuriating that the USB interface isn't that one box! If that requires the USB interface to have multiple DC power inputs then so be it. My friends used to use the Yellowtec PUC2 and the Intona's sound reminded me of the PUC2 (they also look the same). I wonder if the PUC2 had g-isolation going on.

implied they had something under development

I haven't heard the new regen with isolation, but one evening I got to compare the the older regen vs my iFi iUSB3.0 vs Intona vs recovery. That evening left an impression on me and I haven't had any interest in iFi or the regen since (these guys tend to charge more than the rest of the pack). If the secret sauce in the Intona is the g-isolation then the new regen does deserves a listen. That said, I would sooner wait on Intona's latest incantation.

I think is preferable to follow the Intona with the Recovery

that's what my friend is doing, but I swear there is collateral damage going on when the chain starts looking silly -- at some point you'll be that mad doctor making the human centipede.
For me, adding to the chain is almost never win-win (more often it's win*3 + lose*1). Just try removing the gadget and yes you'll recognize the loss of something you liked, but you may also hear something else improve that you gave up by using the gadget.

 

[barbas]

I had the same experience coming from the Tanly -- and they both had similar power supplies inside so, what's going on there? I had no desire to ride that through a breakin, and I have all these unused taps coming off my HDPlex LPS' that I was die'ing to use.


Someone in NJ sold me the recovery for $125 and someone in Florida sold me the industrial Intona for $125. Those are good prices for experimenting and screwing around, but my recommendation to others is to strive for something that fits in one box (those little curious cables aren't cheap!). It's infuriating that the USB interface isn't that one box! If that requires the USB interface to have multiple DC power inputs then so be it. My friends used to use the Yellowtec PUC2 and the Intona's sound reminded me of the PUC2 (they also look the same). I wonder if the PUC2 had g-isolation going on.


I haven't heard the new regen with isolation, but one evening I got to compare the the older regen vs my iFi iUSB3.0 vs Intona vs recovery. That evening left an impression on me and I haven't had any interest in iFi or the regen since (these guys tend to charge more than the rest of the pack). If the secret sauce in the Intona is the g-isolation then the new regen does deserves a listen. That said, I would sooner wait on Intona's latest incantation.


that's what my friend is doing, but I swear there is collateral damage going on when the chain starts looking silly -- at some point you'll be that mad doctor making the human centipede.
For me, adding to the chain is almost never win-win (more often it's win*3 + lose*1). Just try removing the gadget and yes you'll recognize the loss of something you liked, but you may also hear something else improve that you gave up by using the gadget.

The new Amanero board with isolation that AGD is offering won't do the trick?

 

[Chopin75]

Hi all, thanks so much for all your help and ideas! I think I will hold off on getting the Intona then. No hurry. I still have other stuff to deal with, e.g. upgrading my software in my computer (thinking of audivirana vs HG player, I am not fan of J Media) or even needing to change my Macbook (the current one is 7 yrs old!) . I am sure either Intona or W4s or would work well, given I use a computer and I don't think my DAC is not exactly high end (Geek Pulse dual mono ESS chip). In fact, I need a reclocker to feed into it from my CD player, or the signal would be interrupted, (though that is via AES/SPDIF, not USB.

http://www.rdlnet.com/product.php?page=448
(this magical box stops the signal interruption that I get from my DAC when using the AES/SPDIF, I gets the DAC signal interruption when my electric heater turns on or when someone sparks the cooking stove!, but it does not have USB or I2S unfortunately)

My DAC's USB works a bit better. It has femto clock. W4s is cheapest option, can be upgraded with L-PS later, and appears to be useful despite having good USB isolator at the DAC end, per reviews. I may get that first. Regards to new Intona, yes, I may just wait a bit. I agree, that too many things can screw things up. Ideally 1 single device without need of PS is what I want.

I am a bit surprised for Wynnytsky SU-1 is not working well even via I2S ?? My understanding is I2S should work well in almost all situation. There are some cheaper options of USB to I2S on line I googled. The SU-1 does look a bit like a cheap thing from China.


How about this ??

https://www.ebay.com/i/352241511856?chn=ps&fl=a

Looks too cheap to do anything, but would adding something like Intona before this works, a cheaper simple process. - though it does not appear to do DSD/DXD.

Would something like Intona (or other galvanic isolator) +/- W4s + SU-1 be overkill ?

Even I2S are all different - I check that the mano streamer's I2S does not do Hi Res DSD (only 64), >?. It seems only the SIngxir Su-1 doss up to DSD 256

Someone mentioned this I think:

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/L-K-...e-converter-I2S-output-I2S-E/32811303548.html

 

[gk2013]

Even I2S are all different - I check that the mano streamer's I2S does not do Hi Res DSD (only 64), >?. It seems only the SIngxir Su-1 doss up to DSD 256

Someone mentioned this I think:

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/L-K-...e-converter-I2S-output-I2S-E/32811303548.html

The is L-K-S-Audio-USB-100-Italy-Amanero-program-USB-interface-converter-I2S-output-I2S-E/32811303548.html is excluding vat, shipping and import duties € 354,52
I don't see why this device (without us isolation) is better than a Singxer SU1 with USB isolation which cost € 330 excluding VAT.
I did comparison between Amanero USB and Singxer F1 and the Singxer F1 was clearly the winner. (more spatial, much more depth!)

Mano Streamer is awesome. Indeed limitation is DSD128. I personally do not care about DSD. 99% of my collection is PCM. Streaming services are not DSD, only PCM.

The Singxer SU1 can do up to DSD512 by the way. The Amanero does not work well with DSD(512), see https://github.com/lintweaker/xmos-native-dsd/issues/12

 

[doak]

Magna, on Feb 9, 2018, has released an "Ultra" version of their streamer.
Info here: https://www.magnahifi.com/en/webshop/product/mano-ulttra

 

[motberg]

The new Amanero board with isolation that AGD is offering won't do the trick?

I ordered that with my R2R 1.. will let you know in a couple weeks...

 

[Chopin75]

Magna, on Feb 9, 2018, has released an "Ultra" version of their streamer.
Info here: https://www.magnahifi.com/en/webshop/product/mano-ulttra

Yup, found that too. Mano seems really effective given it is using I2S, only budget streamer that I know of using I2S. The Nimitra has only HDMI but not an I2S. But Mano cannot get DSD 256 out natively via I2S and does not do Multi-ch. I am planing to do Multi-ch DSD

 

[Chopin75]

Since this USB clean-power/isolation/reclocking results seem to be very system dependent, I would certainly wait until @Wynnytsky gets his Intona and reports back (if you have the same DAC). Note that the Intona does reclock after the isolation, but iiuc, the clocking used is not as good as that found in the Recovery or the new ISORegen. Also, I would think there should be some Intona´s available also on the used market due to the success of the ISORegen from Uptone Audio. Some folks say that the USB reclocking quality should not matter much, but seems to me there are hundreds of users reporting increases in sound quality by using better clocks (and you can get real crazy with real expensive clocks, like the SOtM ULTRA series of components.) . If you want a simple solution immediately with guaranteed success, I would try the Uptone ISORegen (there is a 30 day return policy), which includes isolation, quality reclocking and power cleaning. It comes with a wal-wart power supply which will be serviceable, but could be improved even further by a quality linear, battery, or supercaps power supply. I have found the ISORegen isolation does not work in my system, but it does work in the majority of instances, and they offer a 30 day trial.

https://uptoneaudio.com/products/iso-regen

Another note, I do not have a R2R7, but I have used my Tanly and SU-1 in 4 different audio GD DAC´s via HDMI i2s and have not had noise when changing sample rates. I use JPlay software. My experience with the SU-1 with the stock power supply was not very good, I thought it sounded very harsh, even after a few days burn in.. but I now use external power supplies for the SU-1 and find that helps a lot reducing the extra high end energy, while still keeping the detail.

Back in August, Intona sent a newsletter to users which implied they had something under development for the audiophile community.. if you like a copy of that email, send me a PM.

Perhaps indeed a PS is needed for the stock SU-1. What LPS are you using for that ? And there are upgraded versions of it too from Holoaudio site as well the Magnified version:

https://www.magnahifi.com/en/websho...ion-su-1-digital-xmos-usb-audio-bridge-dsd512


Wonder if the upgrade would then eliminate need of LPS

And while searching for LPS anyone tried this ? :


https://wyred4sound.com/products/upgrades-mods-accessories/ps-1-modular-linear-power-supply

This seems a great LPS that can feed up to 4 devices. So one can supply isolator like the Regen or reclocker W4S or both + SU-1 all at the same time ! Then feed via I2S to the R2R 7 DAC. This should be awesome! (theoretically at least)

Adrian

 

[Asgo]

Hi,

I just sold my Denafrips Terminator unit. Sound was too laid back, boring for me and I did not like bubble, lack of impact at low ends/mids. But soundstage was impressive as voices...
Just before to go with Denafrips, I have owned a Audio-GD NOS19 DAC.
So I decided to go back to Audio-GD again

But I don't know which model to go:
R2R 7
Master 7 Singularity
NFB 7.77

My source is a computer equipped with Pink Faun I2S HDMI board (I only use I2S over HDMI for audio stream).

Which model would you choose?

For the R2R 7 owners, which mode is the best for you ? NOS or OS (which one).
I heard OS mode 4x was the best.

So what's your favorite jumpers setting ? For 6moons (see review about R2R 7), they preferred:
IPS1, IPS0, ATT1 et ATT0 set to 'on'
others set to 'off'

What is the matched mode for 6moons review ? OS x4 ?

Regards.

 

[gk2013]

Hi,

I just sold my Denafrips Terminator unit. Sound was too laid back, boring for me and I did not like bubble, lack of impact at low ends/mids. But soundstage was impressive as voices...
Just before to go with Denafrips, I have owned a Audio-GD NOS19 DAC.
So I decided to go back to Audio-GD again

But I don't know which model to go:
R2R 7
Master 7 Singularity
NFB 7.77

My source is a computer equipped with Pink Faun I2S HDMI board (I only use I2S over HDMI for audio stream).

Which model would you choose?

For the R2R 7 owners, which mode is the best for you ? NOS or OS (which one).
I heard OS mode 4x was the best.

So what's your favorite jumpers setting ? For 6moons (see review about R2R 7), they preferred:
IPS1, IPS0, ATT1 et ATT0 set to 'on'
others set to 'off'

What is the matched mode for 6moons review ? OS x4 ?

Regards.

R2R7HE if you can!

6Moons is 1x Oversampling IPS1, IPS0 and ATT1, ATT0 jumpered. (This is an unconfirmed setting)