[Nayyte]

They matter nothing next to DI20HE. N1 or N0 is the best.

OS 2-8x gives more clarity/refinement. Like changing cables from copper to silver. It is best to use this setting DAC only, not with DI20HE. For N1 and NO they are different, but these filters are not worth talking about compared what DI20HE can do. N1 is NOS and NO is the new NOS mode which I find best with master clock last time I had the OCK-2. Why worry about the other DACs when DI20HE/R1N will beat them anyway?

I have not yet been fan of any upscaling/oversampling filters. If a DAC can not satisfy at 16/44.1 and makes me go for absurd upscale numbers, thats a red flag.

......

I don´t know for sure but if I should recommend you a DAC I would choose a sound between the R1N and R8H2.

If the R27 series can give you a close sound to R8MK3. I have had the R27RE in my mind for some time in hopes to replace my R1N and give a Master 19 quality sound, so I could use the ACSS input on HE9 for the R8H2....

R8MK3 or R27RE will be my recommendation. I think the last one most

...but this leads to HE-9 LE and R1N....so many combinations

Great, I agree the NOS of R1N is really spectacular. I don't like dismissing other DAC's because I simply haven't heard them. I want to try the new schiit gungnir 2 coming this summer, we'll see.

I'm to the point where getting an AIO is very ideal. Would love to have a rack full of AGD gear but currently I don't have a rack or the space at all.
I have a strong feeling that the HE9LE would be going too far for me. It's not that I don't think I'd like it, it's more like I believe that I've already hit the point of diminishing returns, and now I'm more interested in simplification. Just the R-1N alone has gotten me so very far up the ladder.

The price difference between DI-24HE + R-1N + HE-9LE or DI-24HE + R-27RE.... the latter is less expensive and you have HE power on all units.

The three unit stack just seems outrageous to me, just a DDC and the AIO really clicks in my head. My OCD does get triggered trying to imagine how to make two different width chassis look good together on a rack though. Eye candy does play a part in the hobby

 

[FredA]

They matter nothing next to DI20HE. N1 or N0 is the best.

OS 2-8x gives more clarity/refinement. Like changing cables from copper to silver. It is best to use this setting DAC only, not with DI20HE. For N1 and NO they are different, but these filters are not worth talking about compared what DI20HE can do. N1 is NOS and NO is the new NOS mode which I find best with master clock last time I had the OCK-2. Why worry about the other DACs when DI20HE/R1N will beat them anyway?

I have not yet been fan of any upscaling/oversampling filters. If a DAC can not satisfy at 16/44.1 and makes me go for absurd upscale numbers, thats a red flag.

......

I don´t know for sure but if I should recommend you a DAC I would choose a sound between the R1N and R8H2.

If the R27 series can give you a close sound to R8MK3. I have had the R27RE in my mind for some time in hopes to replace my R1N and give a Master 19 quality sound, so I could use the ACSS input on HE9 for the R8H2....

R8MK3 or R27RE will be my recommendation. I think the last one most

...but this leads to HE-9 LE and R1N....so many combinations

Adding a top ddc like the di20he to a synchronous dac like the r1-nos is indeed a big step forward. It does bring a very significant upgrade. The r2r 11 mkii plays like a dac worth a lot more when fed a high-quality spdif signal. And you can use sw upsampling to get
a sharper sound. In Volumio, the top-quality level of oversampling works really well. Staging is very impressive.

Getting a setup that sound as well on headphones vs speakers is tough. I did find a set of planar headphones that comes really close to my speakers.

Some headphones will keep the sound closed in. Both the dac and cans have an influence on this.

 

[Patswalker]

R27 owners...I use mine as a preamp for gaming/tv/music and I LOOOOOOVE it. Does it matter if I keep it on all the time or if I turn it on and off when I use it or don't use it?

 

[FredA]

R27 owners...I use mine as a preamp for gaming/tv/music and I LOOOOOOVE it. Does it matter if I keep it on all the time or if I turn it on and off when I use it or don't use it?

Keep it running. It will sound best this way and will still last a very long time.

 

[Patswalker]

Keep it running. It will sound best this way and will still last a very long time.

Oh great. That's what I've been doing.

 

[dougms3]

R27 owners...I use mine as a preamp for gaming/tv/music and I LOOOOOOVE it. Does it matter if I keep it on all the time or if I turn it on and off when I use it or don't use it?

Kingwa says you can leave it on all the time but as with any class A amp, heat tends to build up. Excessive exposure to heat causes wear on electronics. The temperature changes from being on and off also contribute to wear as well but I think its the lesser of two evils.

I just turn off my amps when not in use. The other devices like the dac, ddc, master clock, I leave on all the time because they don't really build up much heat.

 

[dougms3]

Damn that glass top makes it look so nice.

Looks like alot more vents for heat dissipation as well.

 

[matthia]

R8MK3 or R27RE will be my recommendation

What do you think about the R27MK2?
It is nearly the same price as R8MK3 but has a bigger PS for the digital section.
Just curious...

 

[OCC7N]

What do you think about the R27MK2?
It is nearly the same price as R8MK3 but has a bigger PS for the digital section.
Just curious...

Price difference is too small to recommend 27mk2 over the RE model.

 

[OCC7N]

R27 owners...I use mine as a preamp for gaming/tv/music and I LOOOOOOVE it. Does it matter if I keep it on all the time or if I turn it on and off when I use it or don't use it?

Depends on the usage. I would never let the tap water run all day if I only used it for 1-3 hours, just enough for it to get cold or warm. The same with AGD. 1-2(2 hours MAX) hour is enough. The rest is waste of resources imo.

Try it out for yourself. I found absolutely zero improvement in sound.

---

EDIT: The same with masterclock I use to have it on 24 hours a day. I turn it off with the whole network when not in use. I believe when a master clock has breaked in - It will take max 1 hour to settle. - I use to say one week, but that was just all my feelings and make beliefs when I look back

This all comes down to my mood and hearing (dis)ability. no offense

 

[Patswalker]

R27RE question

Anyone have issues with the optical in sounding gravely or broken up and not smooth like it normally does?

Here's my situation. I was going to leave for a trip for a week so I turned off all my electronic devices as I do when I'm heading out of town. I have my R27RE as my A/V hub. I play my gaming and watch my TV via optical in and music in via coax from a streamer then feeding out to monoblock amps via XLR. The R27RE has done this flawlessly for the last month and a half. I turned everything off in the morning and in the evening I got word that my trip was cancelled so I turned everything back on. R27RE first then monoblock amps after that as described in the instructions for the monoblocks. I then turned my tv on to watch a movie and the sound coming out via optical playing through the R27RE sounded like it had gravel in it. It wasn't broken up but it sounded sort like it was clipping but no matter what volume I had it at it sounded like that. It was terribly scratchy. Also when I turn the tv on there is a digital sound like a audible beep that is not always the same pitch or tone. Up to this point I had the R27RE in the system as described and it was working flawlwssly. No gravely sound no weird digital beep when the tv turns on. Perfect and smooth and wonderful but now this happens every time.

What I have done to try and remedy the situation:
- I have tried multiple optical cables and it happens with all of them.
- I have connected my Chord Hugo TT2 replacing the R27RE. I connected the Hugo TT2 the exact same way as I had the R27RE connected, optical in from tv then XLR out to amps. It worked perfect with no issues.
- I have connected the R28NOS that I had in my office on my desk replacing the R27RE. I connected the R28NOS the exact same way I had the R27RE connected, optical in from tv then XLR out to amps. It worked perfect with no issues.
- I connected a separate external dac the same way the dac section of the R27RE was connected, optical in from the TV, then I connected the separate external dac to the R27RE with XLR bypassing the dac section of the R27RE using only the preamp section of the R27RE and it worked perfect with no issues.
- Interestingly enough when I connected RCA coax via my wiim pro in the tv room it was fine and when I connected via USB from my iPad it was fine.
- I then took the R27RE into my office and connced it to my Matrix SPDIF3 to test the IIS and the problem is there. I then connected RCA coax and the peroblem is there again.

I have no idea what it could be. Unfortunately I bought it used from The Music Room for close to $1000 less than what it costs new. I love The Music Room but as it looks like it may be a busted dac section if I did a return refund I would not be able to replace it with a new one. Has anyone had a similar expeirnce or issues that they remedied? Am I missing something that could be the solution? I reached out the TMR and come monday they'll help if they can. If it is in fact a busted dac section, does anyone know someone who fixes these in the US?

 

[FredA]

R27RE question

Anyone have issues with the optical in sounding gravely or broken up and not smooth like it normally does?

Here's my situation. I was going to leave for a trip for a week so I turned off all my electronic devices as I do when I'm heading out of town. I have my R27RE as my A/V hub. I play my gaming and watch my TV via optical in and music in via coax from a streamer then feeding out to monoblock amps via XLR. The R27RE has done this flawlessly for the last month and a half. I turned everything off in the morning and in the evening I got word that my trip was cancelled so I turned everything back on. R27RE first then monoblock amps after that as described in the instructions for the monoblocks. I then turned my tv on to watch a movie and the sound coming out via optical playing through the R27RE sounded like it had gravel in it. It wasn't broken up but it sounded sort like it was clipping but no matter what volume I had it at it sounded like that. It was terribly scratchy. Also when I turn the tv on there is a digital sound like a audible beep that is not always the same pitch or tone. Up to this point I had the R27RE in the system as described and it was working flawlwssly. No gravely sound no weird digital beep when the tv turns on. Perfect and smooth and wonderful but now this happens every time.

What I have done to try and remedy the situation:
- I have tried multiple optical cables and it happens with all of them.
- I have connected my Chord Hugo TT2 replacing the R27RE. I connected the Hugo TT2 the exact same way as I had the R27RE connected, optical in from tv then XLR out to amps. It worked perfect with no issues.
- I have connected the R28NOS that I had in my office on my desk replacing the R27RE. I connected the R28NOS the exact same way I had the R27RE connected, optical in from tv then XLR out to amps. It worked perfect with no issues.
- I connected a separate external dac the same way the dac section of the R27RE was connected, optical in from the TV, then I connected the separate external dac to the R27RE with XLR bypassing the dac section of the R27RE using only the preamp section of the R27RE and it worked perfect with no issues.
- Interestingly enough when I connected RCA coax via my wiim pro in the tv room it was fine and when I connected via USB from my iPad it was fine.
- I then took the R27RE into my office and connced it to my Matrix SPDIF3 to test the IIS and the problem is there. I then connected RCA coax and the peroblem is there again.

I have no idea what it could be. Unfortunately I bought it used from The Music Room for close to $1000 less than what it costs new. I love The Music Room but as it looks like it may be a busted dac section if I did a return refund I would not be able to replace it with a new one. Has anyone had a similar expeirnce or issues that they remedied? Am I missing something that could be the solution? I reached out the TMR and come monday they'll help if they can. If it is in fact a busted dac section, does anyone know someone who fixes these in the US?

An issue can occur when you hot connect cables,.especially i2s. You can try to re-flash the fw. You will need a usb blaster.

 

[Patswalker]

An issue can occur when you hot connect cables,.especially i2s. You can try to re-flash the fw. You will need a usb blaster.

That's what I was thinking but the issue started with the optical connection and it was not hot. I turned on the R27RE first, then the amps, then after both of those I turned on the TV. I didn't think about re-flashing the firmware. That might be a great solution. I have the USB blaster that came with the R27RE. I also sent an email copy of my post to Audio GD. I'll probably wait to see what they say before re-flashing but thanks for that idea. I didn't think of that.

 

[FredA]

That's what I was thinking but the issue started with the optical connection and it was not hot. I turned on the R27RE first, then the amps, then after both of those I turned on the TV. I didn't think about re-flashing the firmware. That might be a great solution. I have the USB blaster that came with the R27RE. I also sent an email copy of my post to Audio GD. I'll probably wait to see what they say before re-flashing but thanks for that idea. I didn't think of that.

Well it could be an easy fix. Hot connecting optical is no problem. But coax or i2s can create issues.

 

[Patswalker]

Well it could be an easy fix. Hot connecting optical is no problem. But coax or i2s can create issues.

I'm hoping it is. I'm sure I'll hear back from audio GD soon. Thanks a ton for that re-flashing idea.