My DIY electrostatic headphones
Dec 14, 2011 at 10:05 AM Post #181 of 4,058
Hi bcg27,
 
No, I am trying to mimic Orpheus.  I've been making the frames from plastic, and they turn out well.  But I want to try something new.  I look around my house and I see this small piece of wood.  So, I just try it out.  Actually I'm still worry that the wood might absorb too much moisture in the air and cause problem.  Our summer and rainy seasons here are extremely humid.  Let's see.
 
Wachara C.
 
Dec 14, 2011 at 10:10 PM Post #183 of 4,058
Hi Spritzer,
 
I have noticed that about Sennheiser too.  Unfortunately, my design is a little different from that of Sennheiser.  
 
I have been making a few pairs of electrostatic speakers as well.  From my experience, the wood frame tend to absorb moisture in the air and cause some electrical leakage. I put an O Ring in the frame.  This prevents the drivers in direct contact with the wood.  It also helps fit the drivers in the frame much tighter.  Let's see how it goes.
 

 
Wachara C.
 
 
 
Dec 15, 2011 at 11:45 AM Post #184 of 4,058
Hi Wachara
 
This is awesome.  I have been inspired to make my own electrostats now....
 
For your CNC machine, are you using stepper motors?  What software do you use with it?
 
This looks like something I could make to upgrade from the panasonic RP-HTF600s.  Love the picture of the DIY headphones surrounded by top-of-the-line electrostats.
 
 
Thanks in advance.
 
Dec 15, 2011 at 10:18 PM Post #185 of 4,058
Hi Audio Technica,
 
If you already have a CNC machine, it's very easy for you to make a pair of electrostatic headphones.  Yes, I use only PCB to make my drivers.  I use 1 mm PCB to make my stators and 0.6 mm PCB to make my spacers.  If I can find 0.5 mm PCB, I would definitely use it for the spacers.  But it's unfortunate for me that I can't find it here.
 
Yes, my CNC machine is equipped with stepper motors.  I use an open source software, EMC2, for controlling.  It really is a great software.
 
Wachara C.
 
Dec 16, 2011 at 7:45 AM Post #186 of 4,058
 
Hello Wachara,
 
Thanks for the reply -- I'm definitely going to be making these headphones.
As for the mylar, how exactly is it even affected by the fields made by the stators?  I read a post regarding a special coating, but I wasn't sure how that changes things.
 
 
Thanks.
 
Dec 16, 2011 at 8:30 AM Post #187 of 4,058
Hi Audio Technica,
 
Well, the reason that you want to coat your diaphragm is that you need to charge it with electricity.  As you might have known, the diaphragm is made from a very thin sheet of plastic, and plastic isn't conductive.  The stuff you coat on the diaphragm makes it somewhat conductive - not too much.  Think of the driver as a capacitor.  You want to charge it up and keep it charged for as long as you can.  That's why you coat it with a stuff that is conductive and has high resistivity.  I find Staticide 6300 to be excellent for this application.  
 
Wachara C.
 
Dec 16, 2011 at 10:34 AM Post #189 of 4,058
Could you post the layout of those stators, showing measurements (hole diameter, total diameter, etc)?  I'd like to try making them myself.
 
I wonder if I could do this with nothing but a router table, a drill press, and a ferric chloride tub...  I don't really have the time to build a cnc machine (though I do have most of the parts) and I've got a few other projects going on right now.
 
If it doesn't work out, would you be willing to make me a few stators?  I'd be willing to pay for the copper clad if you'd like.
 
 
Thanks
 
Quote:
I'm making a new pair of headphones.  This time I try to make the headphones with as less copper as possible - I etched out all the useless copper.  This helps reduce the capacitance on the headphones and makes them easier to be driven by an amp on high frequencies.  It's still a work in progress, but here are a few pictures:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 



 
 
Dec 16, 2011 at 11:28 AM Post #190 of 4,058
Hi Audio Technica,
 
I think this version of mine is quite difficult for you to make an exact duplicate because the stator contains a lot of holes and they have to line up all perfectly.  You might want to look at the one in my earlier post.  That stator version has a lot less open area and it should be a lot less difficult to make if you don't have a CNC machine.  http://www.head-fi.org/t/498292/my-diy-electrostatic-headphones#post_6730417
 
Wachara C.
 
Dec 17, 2011 at 7:39 AM Post #192 of 4,058


Quote:
Hi Spritzer,
 
I have noticed that about Sennheiser too.  Unfortunately, my design is a little different from that of Sennheiser.  
 
I have been making a few pairs of electrostatic speakers as well.  From my experience, the wood frame tend to absorb moisture in the air and cause some electrical leakage. I put an O Ring in the frame.  This prevents the drivers in direct contact with the wood.  It also helps fit the drivers in the frame much tighter.  Let's see how it goes.
 

 
Wachara C.
 
 


I really like the o-ring since it also makes for a good baffle seal. 
smily_headphones1.gif

 
 
Dec 17, 2011 at 8:50 AM Post #193 of 4,058


Quote:
I'm making a new pair of headphones.  This time I try to make the headphones with as less copper as possible - I etched out all the useless copper.  This helps reduce the capacitance on the headphones and makes them easier to be driven by an amp on high frequencies.  It's still a work in progress, but here are a few pictures:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 


very professional finish, chinsetta..
 
have you tried sending your headphones to other users here to make a comparison review? seems interesting..
 
 
Dec 17, 2011 at 12:54 PM Post #194 of 4,058
Hi i_djoel2000,
 
We had a mini meeting sometime last month, and a few Thai Head-fi members had listened to my phones.  http://www.head-fi.org/t/570050/sr-009-vs-orpheus-sr-omega-o2s/135
 
We will have another meeting pretty soon, and they will be able to try my new headphones.  :)
 
Wachara C.
 

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