Monoprice Monolith M1060 and M560 Planar Headphones
Feb 7, 2018 at 12:40 PM Post #6,691 of 8,051
Is this a common defect? Mine cracked in the same spot, both ear cups, but only on side of each of the cups.

Haven’t sent them in yet since they have a five year warranty and I just really don’t want to not have them around lol
Yeah, I just looked at mine again. I haven't checked them for a couple of months. One of the 4 hinge spots is cracked. They are 2d gens too.

I don't want to send them back for replacement. I don't want to take the chance getting a set that don't sound as good. Mine are just perfect to me. Perfect. And the new set just might crack also.

I'm thinking about just filling the crack(s) with some plastic wood and making it look as best I can. Hopefully adding some stability to the hinge. I'm more concerned with the way they sound, than the way they look.

Is there anyone here that have kept theirs after cracking and had any issues from the hinge(s) being too lose, falling apart or something?
 
Feb 7, 2018 at 1:20 PM Post #6,693 of 8,051
Hi Hazi59, What sonic improvements do you hear with this cable upgrade? Is it much heavier or uncomfortable compared to the stock cable?

Barry

You are probably asking the wrong person, as I typically purchase aftermarket cables only if the original cable is poorly built. I don't subscribe to the theory of cables adding any audible differences (unless the original cable is just crap). In the case of the M1060 cable, due to the right angle of the 3.5mm connection and the garbage 1/4 adapter monoprice provides, I upgraded. I didn't want the cable to eventually become a point of failure for the headphones. The Periapt cable is heavier, but it is built with remarkable craftsmanship.

In addition to that, when I first received the cable, it was not working (there was an issue with the grounding of the 2.5mm terminals). I contacted Periapt via email and 45 minutes later I had a response. They sent me a new cable and a return label (free shipping, yay!) for the non-working cable I first received. They basically sent me a replacement (which worked) on good faith that I would return the original (which of course I did). But the main reason they wanted the original returned was to see what the actual issue was in the first place (grounding of terminals). This customer service experience I received has given them a customer for life. :)
 
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Feb 7, 2018 at 2:35 PM Post #6,695 of 8,051
Has anyone heard the m1060 closed back yet?
DMS3 TV sang praises for it in his latest video. He said a full review is coming at some point, probably after they are officially released. Apparently they have a retuned driver.
 
Feb 7, 2018 at 2:47 PM Post #6,696 of 8,051
DMS3 TV sang praises for it in his latest video. He said a full review is coming at some point, probably after they are officially released. Apparently they have a retuned driver.
I've seen this video but he seems to be the only person on the planet that has heard them so far lol...was just curious if any head fiers had heard them somehow.
 
Feb 9, 2018 at 10:08 PM Post #6,698 of 8,051
I want to know what monoprice did to improve the driver so I can do something like that to my m1060 (WITHOUT BREAKING IT).
 
Feb 10, 2018 at 1:13 AM Post #6,699 of 8,051
Today I got the first round of 'final' 3D parts printed and my M1060 reassembled...

i-VJb6jKb-X4.jpg


i-G3qGFr9-X4.jpg

i-mhxhCRz-X4.jpg


The outer headband piece will need to be tweaked, the reason there is a gap between the two pieces is the pockets I made for the headband and ear-cup tab ends to fit in aren't deep enough - even though I dimensioned them it to the depth of the band thickness. Will double the cutout depth and try again with those pieces. The plan is to be able to glue them into one piece.

Everything else is pretty much where it needs to be, just wish could get better print results...they are kind of rough prints. Maybe once I get the new nozzle and the V2.5 upgrade kit I'm waiting on it will improve. Or it might just be a case of just having to do extra finishing work and painting of the pieces to get desired results.

With the new strap system there is TONS more headroom from just a 12mm increase in the headband height, the strap system is on the lowest of 3 settings and just perfect with my medium sized head. Changing the hole spacing for the leather strap would offer better fitment at different adjustment heights, still something I need to work out. I does seem more comfortable than the stock strap system, even with weighing in at approximately 20ish grams more (mostly due to the additional hardware...), once everything is finalized I can get the actual weight difference from stock - I measured the stock headstrap/band fastening components total @ 25.6grams. I will be making the leather strap not as narrow, so that will add more weight as well... but it really needs to be the full original width.

It also fits fine in the stock case... a perfect fit actually. So, yeah...it's coming along okay I think... just need to keep at it. Once I get everything right I will post the Thingiverse link to the page for it - will have all the pertinent fastener and strap information along with assembly method and tips. That page will need some time to put together as well, have a placeholder now that I should start working on...but not now. LOL

Once everything is finalized I will print it out the actual final parts in black and carbon fiber composite versions and take pictures...
 
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Feb 10, 2018 at 2:08 AM Post #6,700 of 8,051
Dayum that's one modded M1060. Looks great.

Also remember that carbon fiber filament is very abrasive and will chew through your nozzle in no time.
 
Feb 10, 2018 at 2:31 AM Post #6,701 of 8,051
Dayum that's one modded M1060. Looks great.

Also remember that carbon fiber filament is very abrasive and will chew through your nozzle in no time.
Thanks. Its only the first stage for it though, more changes coming afterwards - custom cups with integrated removable pad system, custom composite gimbal arms, and my own fazor to work with the cup/removeable pad system. Will need to get a second M1060 for a reference before doing the custom cups though.

I've got the wear issue covered with the new nozzle which will be installed whenever I get my Prusa MK2.5 upgrade kit in (already have the nozzle, just waiting on the upgrade kit)... http://olssonruby.com
 
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Feb 10, 2018 at 10:11 AM Post #6,703 of 8,051
Anybody aware of a graph that pretty representative of the M1060? I've been playing around with EQ.
If you're looking for stock frequency response, Innerfidelity should have the more accurate one. Unless yours are modded then its hard to find a good one.
 
Feb 10, 2018 at 10:30 AM Post #6,704 of 8,051
These need a bit of upper mids, lower treble boost. I don't find these to be bright at all as the lower treble is suppressed to keep the recording to sound sibilant if you have heard headphones that tend to put out significant sibilance. For this reason some may think it sounds a bit dull or suppressed in it's response, but no way is there treble emphasis. I wouldn't say it's really veiled like how we would refer to HD650 level, but I can see some hearing it that way.

Why am I EQ'ing? I notice horns sound smoothed out, which means somewhere in the upper mids and lower treble there is a drop to smooth it out. It sounds like the higher harmonics are cut from the horn sound which gives it the textures, and definition.

Definitely not for bass-heads. You're not going to get significant impact or large bass. Just enough bass and that is all.

Anyway, this is a 2nd pair I'me trying, so a different M1060. I'm really questioning their QC. How consistent are these in terms of response? I liked my earlier pair that I do not have anymore.

Ok, the Mojo maybe the partial culprit as well, I need to try out other DACs to my amp.
 
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Feb 10, 2018 at 10:32 AM Post #6,705 of 8,051
Today I got the first round of 'final' 3D parts printed and my M1060 reassembled...
i-VJb6jKb-X4.jpg


i-G3qGFr9-X4.jpg

i-mhxhCRz-X4.jpg


The out headband piece will need to be tweaked, the reason there is a gap between the two pieces is the pockets I made for the headband and ear-cup tab ends to fit in aren't deep enough - even though I dimensioned them it to the depth of the band thickness. Will double the cutout depth and try again with those pieces. The plan is to be able to glue them into one piece.

Everything else is pretty much where it needs to be, just wish could get better print results...they are kind of rough prints. Maybe once I get the new nozzle and the V2.5 upgrade kit I'm waiting on it will improve. Or it might just be a case of just having to do extra finishing work and painting of the pieces to get desired results.

With the new strap system there is TONS more headroom from just a 12mm increase in the headband height, the strap system is on the lowest of 3 settings and just perfect with my medium sized head. Changing the hole spacing for the leather strap would offer better fitment at different adjustment heights, still something I need to work out. I does seem more comfortable than the stock strap system, even with weighing in at approximately 20ish grams more (mostly due to the additional hardware...), once everything is finalized I can get the actual weight difference from stock - I measured the stock headstrap/band fastening components total @ 25.6grams. I will be making the leather strap not as narrow, so that will add more weight as well... but it really needs to be the full original width.

It also fits fine in the stock case... a perfect fit actually. So, yeah...it's coming along okay I think... just need to keep at it. Once I get everything right I will post the Thingiverse link to the page for it - will have all the pertinent fastener and strap information along with assembly method and tips. That page will need some time to put together as well, have a placeholder now that I should start working on...but not now. LOL

Once everything is finalized I will print it out the actual final parts in black and carbon fiber composite versions and take pictures...

You are about to go full hero. I've been thinking of ways too make my 1060's more like my Fostex T-X0 in comfort on top of the head.

One suggestion, ditch the protruding hardware on the strap mount. Some of us have wide heads and have trouble buying hats *cough cough*.

Maybe three recessed M2.5 nuts on the back of the headstrap mount with countersunk screws on the headstrap side? That way the screws can bite into the leather and become flush so as not to cause hair loss and scalp gouging? The OpenRC guys also use pressed-in metal fittings to great success. Maybe press from the back into a blind hole so they don't pull through on tightening?

Also for print quality look more at your firmware settings for jerk/accel judging from the look of the corners.

Finally, how have you all been dealing with this?
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