Modding the Sennheiser pc350 headset
Apr 25, 2011 at 9:54 PM Post #331 of 508
There are 2 screws under the foam tape you see over the top of the connector.  They are located close to each other on the right side of the connector.  Make sure you get both, and don't put any pressure on the connector itself as you remove the earpiece.
 
Jun 19, 2011 at 8:32 AM Post #332 of 508
Confirmed, 
 
beware the 2 tiny screws under the foam tape.
 
I drilled a single 2mm diameter hole in each can (used a hot 2mm T9). Bass is now amazing.
 
I did not use padding or cotton wool.
 
I did think they sounded great to start with. Wasnt sure what the haters were saying, After the mod I can see what was being said.
 
I drilled the hole in each as per a previous post, on the side next to the screw stantion. Given the design, I guess that they might flap a bit with unrestricted flow, then padding (cotton wool) would be needed or a 'baffle', where you need a tube(maybe a straw?), to channel and control. So I just went with a small hole. The result is fantastic, I'm not going to play further.
 
Thanks to you guys for being daring and doing the groundwork. It really works.
 
I have no intention of changing these phones as I have heard no better.
 
Thanks for all your hard work, I am now appreciating it very much.
 
Regards
David
Thailand
 
Jun 19, 2011 at 8:53 AM Post #333 of 508
P.S.
 
Not sure what the comments re HRTF are about, the matches demo, and in game, give excellent positional.
 
Music is now awesome too!
 
can't ask for much more than that.
 
Regards
David
Thailand
 
Jun 24, 2011 at 2:15 AM Post #334 of 508
IT IS TIME.
 
 
My MMX300 must be sent in for warranty repair.  My Senn PC350 just doesn't sound as good.  Maybe they could use a little....BASS MODDING.
 
Jun 25, 2011 at 6:46 AM Post #335 of 508
DO IT! DO IT!
 
I DARE you to face the awesome bass of a modded PC350 headset!
 
Just be careful of the small screws and ripping the covers off too quick, the drivers are connected to a PCB in each can. but they do have enough spare as long as you take your time.
 
I didn't break mine and I opened them a few times (forgot the small rubber things that stop the clack on collapsing/opening for e.g.)
 
Jun 26, 2011 at 5:42 PM Post #336 of 508
Ok, thus far I've put 5 holes on each side and some cotton after they sounded a bit boomy/muddy.  I think I may take some of the cotton back out...or should I drill more holes?
These are going back in the closet once I get my repaired MMX300 back, but until then it's fun modding them for better sound.
 
Jun 28, 2011 at 12:41 AM Post #337 of 508
Has anyone noticed highs are a bit more articulate on the left side after the mod?  Right side seems more boomy, by nature, after the mod and I find myself continually adding more filler on that side.  Might this be due to the difference in the new chambers designed after opening them up?
 
Jun 28, 2011 at 3:26 AM Post #338 of 508
Hi elliotm,
 Don't know how big the holes you made are, I made a single 2mm diameter hole in mine, and don't use cotton wool. Maybe an idea to cover some of the holes and build up until you get it how you feel is 'best'. Pain disassembling / re-assembling I know.
 
The crossovers you see in the cable-side can are there to account for the sealed back, so these drivers will be way too bassy and even start to flap if you open them up too much. The backs are too small to make effective baffles for the holes to try and prevent flapping, so you really do have to play with the amount of cotton wool and the number/size of the holes til you get it right, or undercut to start with and be happy that while you might improve them even more you might also overdo it.
 
I haven't noticed any imbalance, there again, you can see there is uneven 'porting' in the cans, for EG where the cable goes in and you have to remove the tape to get at the screws. The sealed back will not show up any difference as these  will not effectively be 'ports'. The more you open up the backs though the more these will openings affect the sound of each can, so maybe you have made too big and too many holes? You could try taping over these open areas (where you removed tape to get at screws etc) until you can even them out? Or reduce how 'open' the backs are (cover some of the holes you made) until the open areas don't make any difference anyway.
 
That's why I started small, tested, and was so happy didn't go any further, but maybe I'm not such an adventurous modder?
 
Another idea might be to bypass the crossovers in the cable-side can. This should allow you to open the backs up as much as you like as, apparently, the same drivers are used in fully open back models. I don't know if they have crossovers to alter the sound characteristics in those open back models, so it's all 'play and see' I'm afraid.
 
All part of the fun of modding I guess.
 
Regards
David
 
Jul 25, 2011 at 4:44 PM Post #339 of 508
The cottonball inside the larger earcup is completely necessary? How many holes do you recommend me to make? Can I make the wholes with a welder? Will this mod decrease the lifespan of the headset by affecting the headset speakers's resonance area? From 1 to 10 which is the change on the bass? 
 
Greetings
 
Jul 25, 2011 at 5:17 PM Post #340 of 508
The cottonball is necessary or you'll have bad resonances, in fact this is the hardest part of this mod: find the good amount of cotton, but that's not too hard.
I recommend 2 or 3 holes, do not let matter enter inside the resonance area.
The difference is ... awesome !!!
And it's reversible... just put a piece of tape over the holes.
 
Jul 25, 2011 at 6:02 PM Post #341 of 508


Quote:
The cottonball is necessary or you'll have bad resonances, in fact this is the hardest part of this mod: find the good amount of cotton, but that's not too hard.
I recommend 2 or 3 holes, do not let matter enter inside the resonance area.
The difference is ... awesome !!!
And it's reversible... just put a piece of tape over the holes.


Thank you for your reply. one more question: How can I disassemble the earcup where the wire is conected? I don't know how to do it )=.
 
Jul 28, 2011 at 6:43 PM Post #343 of 508
Never mind I achieved open the headset and complete the modding and..... OMG
 
I made only 1 hole on bith earcups and the sound is amazing. I won't do more holes because the bass will become muddy (I'm seeing that comming :p). What I did was first creating the hole on the left earcup and test it, comparing it with the unholed right earcup. And then I realised that was the precise amount of holes, just 1. I made it to the right earcup afterwards and here I am, partying alone with some electro :D
 
This was my itunes setting equalizer BEFORE the mod:
 
 

 
 
This was my itunes equalizer setting AFTER the mod:
 

 
That shows how I had to increase the highs :D
 
 
Aug 29, 2011 at 4:12 PM Post #345 of 508
Hi guys!

First time posting here and visiting the site.
 
I won a free headset from Fan Expo (PC 350) and I remember Steggy did a review on it on MLGPro and how he talked about a really light bass. Then somehow I came across here. Right now, I can do the mod myself but I want to ask some questions:

-What are cotton used for? I see it mentioned a few times but what's it for and how is it used?
 
-Any recommended method for drilling holes? 
-After drilling a hole, do I just put the cups into my ear and listen and will that be how exactly I will hear it after I re-assemble everything?
 
thanks guys :D don't mind the scrub me
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top