Millett "Starving Student" hybrid amp
Oct 21, 2008 at 7:31 AM Post #1,396 of 7,277
Just make the knob plain and the legend go to 11. Easy
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Oct 21, 2008 at 10:21 AM Post #1,398 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by ludoo /img/forum/go_quote.gif
My build, fully clothed (the volume knob is a Fender original one and it's Kabeer's idea)

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It really sounds very good. Thanks a lot to Pete and all the people in this thread.
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Oh and how cool it looks
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. Great build.
 
Oct 23, 2008 at 5:52 AM Post #1,399 of 7,277
Well, after three months with the parts sitting in their box, I finally got to this project. The case is a Hammond 1590C painted with Rustoleum Hammered - the MOSFET heatsinks just barely fit across the width. Looks pretty slick IMO, but I think I need to find a black knob for it. Since I screwed up my order I substituted 820uF 63V Panasonic FC for all the 'lytics as I had some laying around. I used a star ground and just air wired everything, no terminal blocks, no ground plane.

Works great, sounds great. For $50 you'd have a real hard time beating this amp, it's lots of fun. Doesn't seem to play well with my AlienDAC though, not sure why, haven't really cared - been listening
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Edit: How microphonic should the tubes be? I find that lightly tapping them results in a tinkling noise from the cans, is that normal? Of the four tubes I purchased, all do this except one that does it only barely.
 
Oct 23, 2008 at 6:02 AM Post #1,400 of 7,277
Well, I listened to the rds kit that -=Germania=- assembled for me, and the Nascar 24 amp sounds wonderful. I was not quite expecting it to sound as good as it does with my re-cabled RS-1 and re-cabled Denon D2000.

I think I'm gonna have to give my son his "birthday amp" 2 months early, just so I can listen to it every once in a while
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Everyone needs one of these amps!

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[COOL - POST 5454]
 
Oct 23, 2008 at 9:30 PM Post #1,402 of 7,277
is there any harm running r3/r9 from the leg of the mosfet and then using wire or should it just be using the resistor leg's when connected?
 
Oct 23, 2008 at 9:41 PM Post #1,403 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by MoxMonkey /img/forum/go_quote.gif
is there any harm running r3/r9 from the leg of the mosfet and then using wire or should it just be using the resistor leg's when connected?


r3/r9 should be soldered directly to the leg of the mosfet, preferably. Keep the resistors leg reasonably short as well. You can run a wire from the other side of those resistors if you like.
 
Oct 23, 2008 at 9:57 PM Post #1,404 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by looser101 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
r3/r9 should be soldered directly to the leg of the mosfet, preferably. Keep the resistors leg reasonably short as well. You can run a wire from the other side of those resistors if you like.


that's what i thought but the search wouldn't let me search for just r3/r9

i built one channel in a pc board since point to point is a pain now to just figure out a layout for both channels
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Oct 24, 2008 at 1:02 AM Post #1,405 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by Citizen86 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
@error401, So you did you use the case for grounding?


No, aluminum is a bit tricky to get a good electrical connection with since the oxide is an insulator and it doesn't take solder (or I've never been able to get it to). I thought about drilling and tapping a hole and screwing in a ground wire, but it'd be a bit unsightly and I don't seem to have EMI/RFI issues, so I didn't think it was necessary.

For ground I just used the negative lead of the main power cap as a star ground and soldered wires to it for each ground connection. Gets a bit messy with a huge, hard to melt solder blob, but it works fine.
 
Oct 24, 2008 at 2:43 AM Post #1,406 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by error401 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
For ground I just used the negative lead of the main power cap as a star ground and soldered wires to it for each ground connection. Gets a bit messy with a huge, hard to melt solder blob, but it works fine.


Ah okay, great. I'm a big noob at this, but I might try that so that I don't have to try and find any PCB board or something else, because I'm sure it'll be difficult in my area...
 
Oct 24, 2008 at 5:02 AM Post #1,407 of 7,277
I just found out about this build last week and I'm really excited to build one of my own. I've got most of my parts in the mail today, just waiting on my tubes and sockets. This will be my first time building a P2P amp, and my first time with tubes, so it should be a fun adventure. And I also really need to learn how to properly read a schematic, hehe.

I do have a question though, I'm not familiar with bypassing caps, or why it is done. Bypassing would be soldering the film cap in parallel with the electrolytic right?

I have a couple of spare .1uF vishay MKPs that I could use to bypass, but I see from reading farther into the thread that people are using .22uF for the bypass caps. Would the .1uF caps be suitable for bypassing? I'm going to be using Panasonic FC 470uF caps for C1, C3, C5 and C6 if that makes any difference. Please help a noobie out!
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Also thank you to Pete and all the contributors to this thread, this seems like a really cool project! I'm building mine in a cool wooden cigar box, so I hope it ends up at least looking neat, hehe.
 
Oct 24, 2008 at 5:55 AM Post #1,408 of 7,277
I think that one of the reasons why people would have used .22uf is because it is used in the main amp section and it is easier buy in bulk.

Anyways, film caps have a tendency to sound better than electrolytic. Essentially, you are keeping the overall capacitance, but allowing the signal to pass through a higher quality component. The value of it can mean more or less bass compared to a different value, but not always true. YOU MIGHT WANT TO CHECK OUT THIS THREAD

As with anything, try it and see if it does anything for you.

BTW: I had very similar Speaker setup this summer with the SL30's and a powered sub, except I was using a receiver
 

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