Millett "Starving Student" hybrid amp
Apr 17, 2009 at 10:04 PM Post #2,971 of 7,277
Heh, it just needs that teeny bit more power...
tongue.gif


Honest
biggrin.gif
 
Apr 17, 2009 at 10:20 PM Post #2,974 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by Logistic /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Do you have cathode bypass caps in your amp? Adding those will give you more gain.


I have no idea what a cathode bypass cap does or where it goes. I just followed the standard circuit design.

Looking at the diagram.. I'm thinking maybe the caps would run parallel to R5 and R11, the 2k resistors? I know nothing of electronics so this is a wild guess based on some other diagram I just looked at with bypass caps.
 
Apr 17, 2009 at 10:43 PM Post #2,976 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by smeggy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I have no idea what a cathode bypass cap does or where it goes. I just followed the standard circuit design.

Looking at the diagram.. I'm thinking maybe the caps would run parallel to R5 and R11, the 2k resistors? I know nothing of electronics so this is a wild guess based on some other diagram I just looked at with bypass caps.



Yes, I think it's C7 & C8 (new BOM), have a look at this 'revised' schematic I did from a previous post.
 
Apr 17, 2009 at 10:51 PM Post #2,978 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by Swingtops /img/forum/go_quote.gif
hey guys
I am having a problem with getting my amp to work, nearest I can tell the inputs and outputs are wired correctly, the signal is getting to the tubes but I have no sound whatsoever coming out of the headphones. No buzzing clicking - nothing. I have had a few people look over the schematic and we think that everything is in the right places, I did have a blown mosfet to start out with that is now replaced. All the DC voltages that are listed on the schematic match within about .2 v. The mosfets seem to be getting pretty hot but no sound.



Please show us how you have the output jack wired, you wouldn't be the first (or last) who wired one of the switched Neutrik jacks on the wrong side.
 
Apr 17, 2009 at 10:59 PM Post #2,983 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by smeggy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I have no idea what a cathode bypass cap does or where it goes. I just followed the standard circuit design.

Looking at the diagram.. I'm thinking maybe the caps would run parallel to R5 and R11, the 2k resistors? I know nothing of electronics so this is a wild guess based on some other diagram I just looked at with bypass caps.



Yes that is correct. It will give you quite a bit more gain, maybe more than you need or want.
very_evil_smiley.gif
 
Apr 17, 2009 at 11:06 PM Post #2,984 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by Logistic /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yes that is correct. It will give you quite a bit more gain, maybe more than you need or want.
very_evil_smiley.gif



Heh, maybe some of this stuff is sinking in after all
tongue.gif


we'll see how it goes. If I decide not to go the full hog re: the new layout, is the 220uF 16V specified there still applicable?
 
Apr 17, 2009 at 11:08 PM Post #2,985 of 7,277
Quote:

Originally Posted by smeggy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Heh, maybe some of this stuff is sinking in after all
tongue.gif


we'll see how it goes. If I decide not to go the full hog re: the new layout, is the 220uF 16V specified there still applicable?



Yes, you can just put in the cathode bypass caps independent of the other changes. In fact, you would not want to put those 50k resisters before the pot, that is meant to reduce the gain.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top