MHDT Havana DAC
Jan 14, 2014 at 2:42 PM Post #2,401 of 2,680
I plan to take the inexpensive way and use cheap russian K72P caps (placed in a wooden base under the Havana) for C9,C10,C11,C12 and the seven 0.1uf one. For the output caps,I will go for the 1uf Rike S.
 
Is it safe to use 200v caps in the Havana?
0.1uf value is impossible to find in higher voltage rating than 200v with the K72P (the most closed value is .082uf).
So I don't know if I must use 0.1uf 200v or 0.082uf 500v for the seven last caps.
If both solutions are bad,I can always use FT3 (.1uf /600v) instead but I'm not sure if I will like their smouth sound.
And how about the input caps? is is better to stay close the original value (0.001uf 1000v) or is a higher value,lower voltage rating recommended?
 
My goal is to jump in musicality and definition but not invest too much because I'm not sure to keep the havana in the final.

I don't think being prescriptions... It is hard to say which solutions will be definitely better than another without a preliminary testing. Probably a higher capacity will sound better with Havana, perhaps not. I still believe, higher capacities than stock are safer; you remove some premises to go wrong. I can only take responsibility from what I personally know. May be are those who can give you more informed suggestions about this purely technical informations. One thing is clear to me regarding this DAC: must be looked for solutions in the ​​film capacitors area!! Stock capacitors do not promise very much. I like Havana because you can play freely with it,... but you take almost all decisions.
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Jan 14, 2014 at 3:40 PM Post #2,402 of 2,680
Hi,
 
If 200v is OK for the Havana,this sound good for me,the low voltage rate is supossely better (I think) and less expensive too.
 
At my opinion,a plint under the Havana should be a good candidate for a more easy,quick and safe caps rolling.
No longer necessary to Solder and desolder the capacitors from the pcb,just take out the originals caps,solder small wires from the downside of the circuit board,solder some 3-poles toggle switches to the wires (one switch per capacitor location)
After that,you can solder up to three different caps per swich and it will be easy to compare different brands or different values for one capacitor's position.
You could do this for each individual capacitors (individual 0.1 uF too),a very accurate comparison.
When you are sure of the best possible combination,you could take out the wires & switches and solder the definitive caps to the pcb.
 
Ed.
 
Jan 14, 2014 at 6:46 PM Post #2,404 of 2,680

 
Put these babies in this morning.  Wow just barely fit them in!  Didn't cut any leads and had to snake them around tight spots.  I even had to rotate my tube dampener to make it fit.  I used blu tack to help with resonance since they were mostly floating/loose.
 
Horace is right.  Straight out of the box, very impressive!  I think this upgrade takes this DAC to the next level.  I was planning on putting the Auricaps in my other Havana, which still have stock 0.1uF caps, but now I think I have to upgrade that one with Rike caps too.  Now for the long burn-in period...
 
Jan 15, 2014 at 11:34 AM Post #2,406 of 2,680
   
 
Put these babies in this morning.  Wow just barely fit them in!  Didn't cut any leads and had to snake them around tight spots.  I even had to rotate my tube dampener to make it fit.  I used blu tack to help with resonance since they were mostly floating/loose.
 
Horace is right.  Straight out of the box, very impressive!  I think this upgrade takes this DAC to the next level.  I was planning on putting the Auricaps in my other Havana, which still have stock 0.1uF caps, but now I think I have to upgrade that one with Rike caps too.  Now for the long burn-in period...

 
This is definitely the best Havana!! Duelunds are impressive there.. 
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PS: After the completely break-in your Havana will sound great! Will be definitely in another league than before..You'll see.
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I think that the combination of capacitors you have now is something special and your Havana will sound absolutely wonderful!!!!!!!!
 
Jan 19, 2014 at 7:56 AM Post #2,408 of 2,680



Put these babies in this morning


Congrats must be outstanding with Cast on output ! :)

About Rike S caps (on c11 only) : after some burning in my initial impressions partly disapeard and emotion is here. I'm not 100% convinced, mainly because it doesn't perfectly fit with the rest of my system, but what blow me away is I don't have the impression to listen to a hifi system but music... Music that comes in front of me from my room.

What provides that ? Is it their ability to feel ambiances and atmospheres, the extreme purity/liquidity of their medium ?
 
Jan 19, 2014 at 12:40 PM Post #2,409 of 2,680
After some burning in my initial impressions partly disapeard and emotion is here. I'm not 100% convinced, also because they don't perfectly fit with the rest or my system, but what blow me away is I don't have the impression to listen to a hifi system but music... Music that comes in front or me from my room.

What provides that ? Is it their ability to feel ambiances and atmospheres, the extreme purity/liquidity of their medium ?

You mean the Rike? if so, I think that is dynamics (the dynamic range) of this capacitors. This creates quiet spaces in the music, quiet instruments are quieter, and louder notes are louder and more forward. S-Caps make the music to sound more natural and realistic compared to other capacitors. Auricap for example, sounded dry whereas S-Cap sound is lively and open with a more obvious flow and liquidity. I noticed a better transparency that makes the sound more realistic (but naturally at the same time).
 
I think you're right.
 
After an additional break-in, you will see that vocals and instruments will be better defined and there will be an obvious balance between body, definition and this transparency.
 
Jan 20, 2014 at 8:16 AM Post #2,410 of 2,680
Yes dynamics are great indeed, I guess feeling I was talking about comes from a combination of both factors.
 
I really like natural and musicality of this cap, as I said despite tons of details my feeling is that I listen to music in a natural way and less a hifi system. My initial impressions regarding leanness and lack of impact are lessened and even if it could be  a bit better it's not a problem anymore. This week I was immerged into music, really pleasant.
 
Unfortunately it's too neutral for the rest of my system. It's not cold but very/too neutral, a slight touch of warmth would make listening more pleasant/comfortable. The other thing is that transparency or this neutral balance highlights something I don't like in the sound of my amp, something a bit dry in the lows, vaguely sterile, difficult to explain. Make me think of the sound of a cheap cap, something like this. Could also be a problem of cables but with another slightly warmer, more colored, amp it disapears. I must make tests to understand that better.
 
I think that with a touch more colors in the sound I would have kept Rike-s on c11 but now I'll try back Audyn TC to compare. Different qualities and defaults I guess, I still think perfect cap for me would be a 75% rike-s & 25% Audyn TC.
 
Jan 20, 2014 at 12:56 PM Post #2,411 of 2,680
Unfortunately it's too neutral for the rest of my system. It's not cold but very/too neutral, a slight touch of warmth would make listening more pleasant/comfortable. The other thing is that transparency or this neutral balance highlights something I don't like in the sound of my amp, something a bit dry in the lows, vaguely sterile, difficult to explain. Make me think of the sound of a cheap cap, something like this. Could also be a problem of cables but with another slightly warmer, more colored, amp it disapears. I must make tests to understand that better.  
I think that with a touch more colors in the sound I would have kept Rike-s on c11 but now I'll try back Audyn TC to compare. Different qualities and defaults I guess, I still think perfect cap for me would be a 75% rike-s & 25% Audyn TC.

 
Definitely they aren't break-in enough!!
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Jan 20, 2014 at 3:46 PM Post #2,413 of 2,680
  Regarding which points precisely ?

I was kidding Olivier.
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Anyway, the break-in is very important becouse I still perceive changes into sound. Transparency is incredible.
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  I can not explain where they come instruments... I feel similar to, but only now really: it disappears hi-fi system and all that remains in the foreground is music. Just the music!!..
 
PS: After 400 hours of break-in, you can say are starting to get into role these capacitors. So, you can notice a very good extension, a greater stage; vocals acquired that authority and texture which I expected it from these capacitors (considering its price).The greatest changes occurring now on midrange and low frequencies. Bass gets more firmly and stronger. Before was somewhat anemic to me.
Everything is open and played with much more precision and clarity. Coherence is incredible and there's nothing compared to what I heard before with Havana.
 
Jan 20, 2014 at 6:36 PM Post #2,414 of 2,680
  I was kidding Olivier.
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Then it's not burnt in enough at all indeed 
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. More seriously my Rike-s "just" has 150 hours but the problem I mentioned in my previous message is something I hear for a long time, it seems to be the moment to try to resolve it. I contacted my retailer, hope it will help.
 
However tonal balance is slightly too neutral with Rike on my system, it's a pity. But it's a very nice cap.
 
Feb 9, 2014 at 10:10 AM Post #2,415 of 2,680
I replaced today the capacitors marked by arrows (Black Gate 100uf/25V - F series) with four BG 220uf/25V FK series. These are probably the best for the analog stage section!!
The change is VERY welcome: superior texture, better attack. With BG FK, vocals and instruments are rendered firmer, with more authority and superior extension. Surprising changes occur on the bass side. Here is more obvious what they do these capacitors.
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It is important to have the best electrolytic capacitors in this area (near the tube).
 

 

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