[p3kka]

Hola! I got my D1 a few days ago and I've generally been happy with it. I was wondering though that aren't the rca-outputs supposed to mute when I insert the headphone plug? I think they muted the other night but they don't anymore, I've tried every "setting" combination possible and two different 6.3mm plugs.

 

[leesure]

Nope...they do not mute.

 

[p3kka]

Right, well "problem" solved then, thanks. 
Quote:

Nope...they do not mute.

 

[attenuated 3db]

Hi attenuated 3db (and hi to all other Head-fi'ers),
 
Thanks for the quick feedback - It was a shame I didn't get to update the post sooner.
After the long posting, the deal fell through. The guy originally wanted £160 delivered ($259), but then agreed on £125 ($202) when his ebay auction ended with no buyers, so I offered £105 ($170) but this was apparently too low. I guess it was a low offer, but based on the fact that it would possibly need soldering etc and that was for stock chinese parts, and it was used I didn't feel that I wanted to offer more - not considering it's a XiangSheng (I'm sure the XS's are fine, but I'd rather have a Maverick).
 
I'd still be interested if anyone had an answer to the above anyway, especially as Q3 and Q4 from my original post will still be relevant if/when I get a Maverick.
So that brings me to the next question ))...... does anyone here have a used Tube Magic D1 they want to sell? Especially if already modded!
 
One quick question - Is the Tube Magic D1 the recommended DAC to get right now or should I buy a different variant?
 
Thanks!
 
Mouseboy007

Yes, I have a lightly-used Maverick D1 Tube Magic (just ordered it in mid-Decemeber of last year) that sounds wonderful that I will sell the instant the DHL delivery person rings the doorbell and delivers my Audio-gd NFB-3 to replace it. And if you re-read my previous post above in this thread, I would highly recommend you purchase my Teralink X2 USB-S/PDIF converter (search for it here on Head-Fi, there are many threads about it, too) along with it. Heck, I'll even throw in a high-end gold-plated heavy-duty Monoprice 75-ohm RCA-to-RCA coaxial cable to connect the two. Unfortunately, I cannot send them to you until the NFB-3 arrives, or I could not listen to Melody Gardot while I type, as I am doing now. Should be very soon, though. I'll send Edwin at Audio-gd another e-mail to see if he knows when my unit will ship; should be any day now. Send me a PM and we can work out a deal-in-advance if you want. You can check out my eBay feedback here:

http://myworld.ebay.com/okjoel54

The last three transactions that I have feedback for are related to the D1. Well, the gigawork transaction was for the Teralink X2, which is brand-new. The other is for an extra G.E. JAN 5670W tube (my unit has a G.E. JAN 5670W tube in it from the factory, so you would have never-used NOS spare tube) and the third feedback (item listed as "private") is for one of the two replacement op-amps (LM4562NA and LT1364CN):

http://www.head-fi.org/lists/display/view_item/id/32805

I am very happy with my Maverick D1 as well as my Maverick A1 integrated amplifier (which I will be keeping), and have nothing but good things to say about it, Ryan Ping and Maverick Audio's excellent customer service. Just wanted to try something different. And the unit is virtually brand-new, perfect cosmetic condition, original box, etc. PM me if you're interested in negotiating price, and I'll work on the Audio-gd angle to see when I could ship it to you.

 

[ninjikiran]

1. Better thought out board design and analog stages.
2. Dunno, its easy to tell if the opamps are socketed if you see a black riser in images. Usually the pins of the opamp are flattened as well.  The d1 is socketed.
3. Looks like the proper size(), not sure of all the exact sizes that can fit into the D1.  GE5670 is one of the purchasable modules with the D1. 

 5670, 2c51, 396A

4. Opamp nearest the RCA outputs.
 
Quote:

Hi All,
 
I've just registered as I have a few questions and I hope the community here can help me out.
I usually use the AVForums in the UK where I'm based but having read ALL 147 pages in the last few days (yes, I really did) it's clear that this is where I'm most likely to get answers 

 
Okay, well, I'm in the process of trying to buy a used Xiang Sheng DAC-01A. To my knowledge this has not been modded.
I'm finding it hard to get information about the XS DAC but I believe it's the same as an early Maverick D1, correct me if I'm wrong.
I'm not sure what the version 'A' represents and hoped you guys could advise.
Am I right in thinking that this has the opamps soldered directly to the board? Or are the chips socketed?
If they ARE soldered directly then I guess to replace the opamps I'd need to apply a soldering iron to the base of the chips pins to release the chip and would need to replace it with an '8 PIN SOLDER TAIL DIP SOCKET' - something like http://parts.digikey.co.uk/1/1/15148-8-pin-solder-tail-dip-socket-08-3518-10.html am I right?
Similarly, I'd want to replace the tube which I understand can just be pulled out and replaced (i.e. no solder). Am I right, and would this be suitable? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300353336777&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123#ht_4674wt_1334
I'm ONLY interested in using it as a DAC to connect to my AV Receiver's Analogue (RCA) Inputs as I'm pretty sure the onboard DAC of my receiver is quite poor, so I'll be using an optical in and tube  and/or SS out. Therefore, what opamps do I need to replace if I don't need to use it for headphones or its own internal  amplification? If you could reply with a picture clearly circling what chips I'd need to unsolder/remove that would be really helpful as (being a bit thick) I'm struggling to work this out and a picture or two would really help!
 
So to summarise:
 
1) How is the XiangShang DAC-01A model different to either the DAC-01 or the Maverick D1?
2) Are the opamps soldered to the board on the XS?
2a) If the opamps are directly soldered, would the '8 PIN SOLDER TAIL DIP SOCKET' I linked be okay to replace (and get appropriate opamp)
3) Can the tube just be 'pulled' and would the linked item be suitable?
4) What opamps do I need to replace (please provide pictures) if not bothered about the headphone stage
 
Being a bit ham-fisted 

 when it comes to soldering, is this something I should get someone else to do or is it pretty simple with a steady hand and a decent soldering iron? I've got a friend that might help me if asked although I'm not averse to doing the soldering myself if it's not stupidly fiddly/small dots of solder.
 
Any help/advice would be very gratefully received!
 
Thanks guys,
 
Mouseboy007
 
 
 
 

 

[Mouseboy007]

Thanks attenuated 3db I've just PM'd you
 
Thanks ninjikiran - really appreciate the answers! Hopefully that will help others too!

 

[attenuated 3db]

Hola! I got my D1 a few days ago and I've generally been happy with it. I was wondering though that aren't the rca-outputs supposed to mute when I insert the headphone plug? I think they muted the other night but they don't anymore, I've tried every "setting" combination possible and two different 6.3mm plugs.

Nope...they do not mute.

Curiously enough, the HeFei XiangSheng Electronic Co., Ltd's DAC-01A - mentioned by another Head-Fi-er in this thread just today - which bears a striking and mysterious resemblance to the Maverick D1 both inside and out (look at the specs and photos at the bottom of this page):

http://www.xshn.com/en/display.asp?id=89

... is available in two different models, one of which where inserting a headphone plug into the jack
does mute the RCA preamp outputs, and another version, similarly to the Maverick D1, which does not. Very strange. Spanky once told be something about the relationship of these two different but extremely similar DAC-preamps, but I have forgotten the story now.

 

[vgizzi]

I have found the optical input to be picky: it only works with certain connectors and they must be seated very carefully.  I think this is a connection issue and not a fault in the processor.  Once I settled on a good cable the unit worked fine.

 

[Mouseboy007]

 
Hi All,

 

I just ordered a stock D1 from Ryan and am looking at replacement tubes and opamps. I'm in the UK and have found a local(ish) supplier of suitable tubes (see an earlier post) but just need to know what opamps to swap out - I've made notes after reading ALL 148 pages of this forums recently, so have some opamp numbers:

 

LT1364

OPA627

LM4562

LF353N (Stock?)

LME49720HA (same as LM4562?)

 

Just to save me spending a significant amount of time re-reading/searching, can anyone advise on the 'best' opamp for the DAC output please (yes, I know it's subjective - so a reason 'why' you think it's best would help) - including any I've missed. Also, should I also swap the opamp for the headphone stage (which I wont be using) - i.e. is it necessary to pair/match opamps for any reason etc. Lastly, just to confirm - the only opamps are for the DAC and Headphone stage - correct?:

 

 

 

*****

In Summary

*****

 

1) Best OpAmp for DAC (and Why)

2) Is Headphone OpAmp swap necessary if not using headphone stage

3) Only 2x opamps in total - confirm please.

4) Bonus points for pointing me to a UK supplier ;o))

 

Thanks

 

Mouseoy007

 

[attenuated 3db]

 
Hi All,

 

I just ordered a stock D1 from Ryan and am looking at replacement tubes and opamps. I'm in the UK and have found a local(ish) supplier of suitable tubes (see an earlier post) but just need to know what opamps to swap out - I've made notes after reading ALL 148 pages of this forums recently, so have some opamp numbers:

 

LT1364

OPA627

LM4562

LF353N (Stock?)

LME49720HA (same as LM4562?)

 

Just to save me spending a significant amount of time re-reading/searching, can anyone advise on the 'best' opamp for the DAC output please (yes, I know it's subjective - so a reason 'why' you think it's best would help) - including any I've missed. Also, should I also swap the opamp for the headphone stage (which I wont be using) - i.e. is it necessary to pair/match opamps for any reason etc. Lastly, just to confirm - the only opamps are for the DAC and Headphone stage - correct?:

 

 

 

*****

In Summary

*****

 

1) Best OpAmp for DAC (and Why)

2) Is Headphone OpAmp swap necessary if not using headphone stage

3) Only 2x opamps in total - confirm please.

4) Bonus points for pointing me to a UK supplier ;o))

 

Thanks

 

Mouseoy007

Hi, Mouseboy007 (I never blow another "double-oh's" cover in public).

The most popular DAC/RCA-out opamp (statistically speaking) among Maverick D1 owners (including myself) is the LT1364. I have the LT1364CN; not sure what the "CN" suffix denotes. As "Spanky," our true Maverck D1 guru (he built the most awesome FAQ in the world) points out, it is a "high-speed" op-amp and has at least the potential to generate more heat in operation that the stock LF353N (which comes in both op-amp sockets direct from Ryan). Take a look at the photos in this thread of the custom heat-sinks he hot-glued to the top of both of this op-amps, including the LT1364 in the DAC/RCA-ouput position. :rolleyes:

I cannot speak to the OPA627, but it seems the second-most popular choice for that socket. This guy is the UK, and has some excellent op-amp educational material. E-mail is free to the world, but you might end up living near this guy for all I know:

http://www.mhennessy2.f9.co.uk/articles/op-amps.htm

Normally, I would recommend Digikey as the op-amp supplier of choice, but they are U.S., and I am getting quite an education from Head-Fi in international commerce, import duties, etc. These folks are U.K. based, and might be worth a fast inquiry:

http://www.eurotech.co.uk/dynamic/search.php?part1=lt1364&x=0&y=0&type=STARTS

To the best of my understanding, if you are never going to use the D1's headphone jack, you can leave the factory LF353N in its socket, and it will make no difference to the signal sent out your RCA outputs. However, an LM4562 is so inexpensive if you are ordering either an LT1364 or OPA627, it's almost worth doing a dual op-amp swap for that unpredicatable future occassion where you may want to plug a pair of headphones into the D1's front panel. The LM4562 vs. LF353N makes a really audible difference there.

Of couse, some people will tell you than a "Sun" HDAM (hyper definition amplification module, I think) from Audio-gd, which is a collection of discrete components (transistors, resistors, capacitors, etc.) is the absolute best-sounding thing you could use to replace the LF353N in the DAC/RCA-out op-amp socket next to the tube, but it necessitates either an alterantive outer case (resierFS used plexiglass or copper mesh), or using a dremel to cut a hole in the top of the slick-looking, but somehwat ill-fitting sexy black brushed aluminum outer case that comes with the unit from Ryan.

The Audio-gd HDAMs are only $20 USD plus shipping and PayPal fees, but I must forewarn you, they require the provbvial Patience of Job to await arrival. :mad:

It's been a pleasure getting to know you, and am glad to see someone else join the ranks of Maverick D1 owners. It's a much quicker club to join that those of other Head-Fi-ers who belong to a club of ownership of another China-based audio "gear" manufacturer who shall go nameless.

 

[ninjikiran]

LT1364 on the headphone amp is a little brighter but pairs very well with cans such as the Beyer Dt770 without raising too much sibilent squeals.
 
LM4562 Brings a little more crunch to the lower end or bassy notes. 
 
Default opamp seems to bring out the worst in sibilance, making it shrill and fatiguing to listen to.  IMO,  its just slight attenuations the opamp is doing nothing major to change the sound of the maverick.  Just differences in comfort levels.
 
I wish I still had the maverick so I could give a good comparison when my headphones come in on Mar 1st.  A good comparison between the M-stage and mav HPA output and comparison between NFB-2 and Mav.  Unfortunately that won't be possible.

 

[ARStewart]

Hey there everyone, I'm having a slight issue with my D1 and I'm hoping someone can help me out. I am running flac files from a Macbook into the D1 then to some Grado SR225i headphones. Usually I use the optical input on my Macbook but for some reason the D1 is very sensitive to the position of the optical cable, usually producing static or no sound at all. The USB works fine and I have yet to try the coax, but the optical is giving me problems and I'm not sure why. If I slightly wiggle the cable at the D1 input then I can get some music to come through, but unless I am holding it in one position I'm left without optical. Any ideas as to why this is happening? Could the optical input be loose? I usually plug my Mac into my Harman Kardon amp via optical and never have any issues, so I know that there isn't a faulty connection with the laptop or cable. Thanks for your help!

 

[Ultrainferno]

 
Quote:

LT1364 on the headphone amp is a little brighter but pairs very well with cans such as the Beyer Dt770 without raising too much sibilent squeals.
 
LM4562 Brings a little more crunch to the lower end or bassy notes. 
 
Default opamp seems to bring out the worst in sibilance, making it shrill and fatiguing to listen to.  IMO,  its just slight attenuations the opamp is doing nothing major to change the sound of the maverick.  Just differences in comfort levels.
 
I wish I still had the maverick so I could give a good comparison when my headphones come in on Mar 1st.  A good comparison between the M-stage and mav HPA output and comparison between NFB-2 and Mav.  Unfortunately that won't be possible.

not really the thread to talk about it, but how was listening to the NFB right after you came from te D1?

 

[ninjikiran]

@Optical, you need a locking connection(though its always easy to pull out an optical cable)  Meaning if theres too much pressure pulling on the cord your never going to get a good connection.  Without a good connection chances of you getting any sound out of it will be difficult.  Though the 360 connection is not solid as long as  the light is able to pass through the tiny hole you should theoretically be ok.
 
 
 
It was pleasant but I also didn't have the 702's with me so its near impossible to make any kind of direct comparison.  THe NFB2 is undoubtedly a better unit even with lower quality phones though.
Quote:

 

not really the thread to talk about it, but how was listening to the NFB right after you came from te D1?

 

[Mouseboy007]

WOW, Thanks again for the responses attenuated 3db and ninjikiran.
You guys ROCK!
 
Taking the advice you both mention I think I'll go for some LM4562's, as you said attenuated 3db, there's no point buying one if they're so inexpensive, and as you mention ninjikiran if the LM4562's give more 'crunch' at the low end, I think that will be good for me as my setup is a touch bright - I'm looking to go through an AV Receiver, not headphones (yet). It'll be good to see what difference I get using an external DAC rather than the Receiver's in built one - I don't think much of the onboard one, but even if it's not-bad, I'm sure a warm tube sound through the RCA's will make listening a whole lot more tolerable.
 
@attenuated 3db
"this guy is the UK, and has some excellent op-amp educational material. E-mail is free to the world, but you might end up living near this guy for all I know"
 
Thanks, I'll look him up, - here in the UK we're only a little island so most people and places are a stones throw away. hehe.
Off topic, but go to maps.google.com and type "brighton uk to berwick upon tweed uk" and you'll see just how small a country England is .... you could probably go from one end to the other in a single tank of fuel ;o)
 
Oh, and @attenuated 3db good to 'speak' to you off-forum, and thanks for the UK links, shame there's no gold star smiley ... well, how about a 'Cheers' 

  
Good luck with the Audio-gd, hope it's sorted soon.