[Mouseboy007]

For anyone else in the UK that wants an LM4562
 
http://markgrantcables.co.uk/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=48_31&products_id=111
 
At time of writing £6.09 delivered (as a comparison for our US cousins, that's about $10)

 

[Mouseboy007]

Just to add, I was originally looking at the Beresford 7520 and the upgraded 'Caiman' version.
It's hard to find many comparisons between the D1 and the Beresford units.
 
There is one interesting article:
http://www.digitalaudioreview.net.au/index.php/audio-reviews/digital-source-reviews/item/116-beresford-tc-7520-caiman?tmpl=component&print=1
 
It seems to put the Beresford out in front, but concludes with the comment:
The Beresford has the better separation and layering, the Maverick the more emotive midrange and smoother treble.
 
I initially posted a few questions to (Stanley) Beresford and received the response 'Buy it and return it in 14 days if you don't like it' ... I then followed up with a few questions and had ZERO response back. Conversely, I e-mailed Ryan and even said I'm possibly going to source a used D1 and even without the prospect of a sale, he came back to me with really helpful responses - and quickly too.
 
I also found a good independent review of the D1 here:
http://www.digitalaudioreview.net.au/index.php/audio-reviews/digital-source-reviews/item/80-maverick-tubemagic-d1
 
I'm just counting down the days until my D1, opamps and tube arrives!.....

 

[ninjikiran]

Some people were waiting for impressions and I have them, this is before I get the Concerto(got it from Reiser).
 
1.  Extremely detailed
2.  Sibilant vocals are natural and sound as they would in rl.  Not harsh or fatiguing.
3.  Bass exist and thump co-exist without intermingling.  Some passages might seem underwhelming at first but thats due to the recording and not attenuation.  When the recording calls for it the kind of punch is beautiful.
4.  Female vocals, are amazing.  Nothing more to say.  Theres such a level of clarity and natural sound to it.
 
I made expensive upgrades from my days with the maverick but they were definitely worth it.  It was a very substantial difference in audio enjoyment.  I don't know how much of that pertains to my new dac as I don't have a mav to test with but things could get interesting when the D2 comes out.  If its as clean as the NFB-2, no nuances at all and higher quality parts I don't see any reason why it can't be awesome.

 

[Mouseboy007]

YAY! I got my D1 today. I've been unable to try it out so far for two reasons.
First, I zipped back home on my lunch break and only had 5minutes to unpack it and take a look before I had to get back.
Secondly, it come with a non-uk terminated plug. I believe it simply requires a UK IEC cable, and will dig one out later.
 
However, a thought has occurred - I'm not sure about the rest of the world, but in the UK we generally put fuses in our plugs rated at 3A, 5A or 13Amp. I don't want to under-spec the fuse, i.e. put in a 3A fuse and it pulls more power and blows the fuse straight away, and I don't want to under-spec the fuse, i.e. put in a 13A and too much current is 'let through' potentially damaging the D1 rather than (correctly in this instance) blowing the fuse.
 
To be honest it's a minor thing really, and I don't know if the supplied plug has a fuse (remember I only had 5mins at lunch to quickly check out the D1) - if so I'll match the rating for what's there.
 
Any advice welcomed 

 

[attenuated 3db]

YAY! I got my D1 today. I've been unable to try it out so far for two reasons.
First, I zipped back home on my lunch break and only had 5minutes to unpack it and take a look before I had to get back.
Secondly, it come with a non-uk terminated plug. I believe it simply requires a UK IEC cable, and will dig one out later.
 
However, a thought has occurred - I'm not sure about the rest of the world, but in the UK we generally put fuses in our plugs rated at 3A, 5A or 13Amp. I don't want to under-spec the fuse, i.e. put in a 3A fuse and it pulls more power and blows the fuse straight away, and I don't want to under-spec the fuse, i.e. put in a 13A and too much current is 'let through' potentially damaging the D1 rather than (correctly in this instance) blowing the fuse.
 
To be honest it's a minor thing really, and I don't know if the supplied plug has a fuse (remember I only had 5mins at lunch to quickly check out the D1) - if so I'll match the rating for what's there.
 
Any advice welcomed 

The inline fuse-holder (slides out with a small screwdriver, coin, or even fingernail) is directly above the female receptacle for the power cord for the U.K. mains AC supply. I do not know its amperage-specification, and from an experience I had with my Maverick A1, I could not see anything engraved on the metal tips of the fuse stating a spec. The A1 had a very fine filament to my tired old nearsighted eyes for a power amplifier with 20 watts RMS output into 8-ohm loudspeakers and that beautiful 80-watt (as opposed to the D1's 20-watt) R-core power transformer.

Given that your load is not going to vary on the D1 since you are just using the RCA outputs, if the unit turns on and stays on, I think your OK. So, if you have an assortment of mini-fuses of that size (wish that I had one - inside joke to Ryan if he reads this), I would start with a small-spec fuse, and if it doesn't blow immediately, you know you have maximal degree of protection, in case you have cat and he/she climbs on top of the D1's ventilated case, and, well, I won't continue.

Enjoy your D1; I am still enjoying mine. It's a great piece of equipment, especially for someone who needs of all of the control flexibility and multiple inputs and outputs.

P.S. - In addition to the proper power cord, make SURE you have the voltage switch (next to the fuse holder and female AC receptacle in the proper position for whatever your U.K. mains A.C. supply is. Don't want to confuse the primary windings on that 20-watt R-core transformer.:wink_face:

 

[Mouseboy007]

 
Quote:

P.S. - In addition to the proper power cord, make SURE you have the voltage switch (next to the fuse holder and female AC receptacle in the proper position for whatever your U.K. mains A.C. supply is.

LOL.... I checked and it reads 230v (I think), and I didn't flick it to the other-position, but I'm guessing that would read 110v or something. I'm very cautious ever since flicking the input-supply switch on an old VCR years ago. The result was purple smoke (capacitors?) and an unhappy VCR.
 
Thanks for the advice attenuated 3db, I will probably do just that - put in a low-rated fuse and if it doesn't blow 'great' if it does I'll step it up, until either the D1 works or I run out of fuses
 
Another quick question if you don't mind - from a heat-dissipation perspective, what kind of separation from other components and cabinet should I aim for; i.e. would it be bad to seat it on top of say, my amp and/or would it be bad to have just a 1" / 2" gap above or to the side. I presume it generates a fair amount of heat??......
 
Thanks all (esp attenuated 3db - on a personal note, have you received the delivery you've been waiting for yet?)
 
Mouseboy007

 

[attenuated 3db]

 


LOL.... I checked and it reads 230v (I think), and I didn't flick it to the other-position, but I'm guessing that would read 110v or something. I'm very cautious ever since flicking the input-supply switch on an old VCR years ago. The result was purple smoke (capacitors?) and an unhappy VCR.
 
Thanks for the advice attenuated 3db, I will probably do just that - put in a low-rated fuse and if it doesn't blow 'great' if it does I'll step it up, until either the D1 works or I run out of fuses
 
Another quick question if you don't mind - from a heat-dissipation perspective, what kind of separation from other components and cabinet should I aim for; i.e. would it be bad to seat it on top of say, my amp and/or would it be bad to have just a 1" / 2" gap above or to the side. I presume it generates a fair amount of heat??......
 
Thanks all (esp attenuated 3db - on a personal note, have you received the delivery you've been waiting for yet?)
 
Mouseboy007

Well, as you (and the whole darned web-browsing-capable world) can see, I use a cheap computer desk for my "command and control" CENTCOM outpost:



The Maverick D1 (and A1) are on the slide-out drawer designed for a desktop computer's keyboard. Slid-in, as I keep it full time (look at all of the environmental dust that I deal with!), it has about two-three inches top clearance between the glass desktop that my Zalman ZM-NC2000 notebook cooler and i7 Sony laptop (provided you have a very large lap) sit on.

I take heat very seriously, having built both audio amplifiers and desktop computers from "scratch" components, and I tested this arrangement repeatedly with that precision test instrument, my hand. The dual Maverick "Tube Magic" patients were not running sufficient "fever" for me to bother with my Brookstone digital thermometer and its remote probe that I keep next to my apartment door to check inside and outside temperatures, and how good my DIY weather-stripping is saving me money and the atmosphere from unnecessary CO-2 emissions.

According to those numbers, I am hermetically sealed in, according to my near-field measured indoor/outdoor temperature differentials in the depths of icy, snowy sub-zero winters (had 14 inches of the "white stuff" in a single day one month ago) or the scorching summers - heat index of 120 degrees Fahrenheit most of July and August of last year - in my remote corner of the world.

So, if you're placing your D1 atop anything, the more critical consideration is how much heat does the placed-upon component emit. You can find many photographs here on Head-Fi of people like me who stack their D1-A1 combos (they are very stylish), and the A1 is always on top. So, obviously, they are not too concerned about the D1. Heat rises, and if the A1 has room to breathe on top, no problem. The tubes are remarkably efficient, and even though the D1 gets hotter than the A1 (I am guessing the LT1364CN op-amp, which is "high-speed" and motivated Head-Fi-er "Spanky" to do some elaborate DIY experminents with CPU heatsink snippets), neither one of them gets all that hot, even with 24/7 use in my experience.

"Lots of wires" was the only comment of Head-Fi-er "ultrainferno," the only person to have previously seen this just-declassified photo. :evil:

 

[Mouseboy007]

Wow, cool. Thanks. I guess that answers the heat question sufficiently.
Now to the REAL troubleshooting..........
 
Having now plugged it in and played with it, I have to say I'm a bit disappointed!! 

I seem to have an annoying and constantly present static /clicking noise.
It's audible at reasonable listening levels and is akin to ...well, static! It sounds like all my music is on dirty vinyl 

I have tried both standard and tube out's and have entirely disconnected external kit and used the headphone jack and still I get this HORRIBLE clicking sound.
I've tried different power cords and passed it through a mains conditioner - still the same!
The way I see it, I've eliminated the outputs (as it's there on headphones too), I've eliminated the tube (headphones don't pass the tube do they?).
It's there on optical and USB, interestingly if I line-in from the laptop, it's gone. 
 
EDIT: As I write, I've tried a different optical cable and that's fixed it for both optical and USB?! Weird.
 
I've had it on for maybe an hour - I never got the opportunity to try the original tube and opamp for the DAC as I swapped them straight away! ))
I use a Harman Kardon AV Receiver (UK AVR255 / US AVR254) and I have to say it's requiring quite critical listening to determine how much better the D1 is over the inbuilt DAC of the Receiver. I think the tube output is definitely richer and more rounded, but also a little brighter than the inbuilt DAC - this may be the analogue stages on the receiver rather than either DAC.
 
I'm not going to say I'm disappointed, but I'm certainly not blown-away in the way I use it at present. I'm going to keep burning-in the unit/tube and see if my perception/experience changes much in the next few weeks. I may also swap out the tube again. At present I've got a Russian 6H3NE tube in that's been cryogenically frozen which according to the seller makes it sound close to a $250 Bendix http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CRYO-SUPER-LIFE-6N3P-E-Hi-Fi-AUDIO-TUBE-2C51-5670-/300353336777?pt=UK_Consumer_VintageAudio_RL&hash=item45ee7435c9#ht_4674wt_1334
 
I also have a couple of 'vintage' 5670's on their way which I may try out .... if one or more of the 5670's are 'duff' will it damage the D1 at all? Or will it just fail to work?
I've replaced the opamp nearest the DAC with a LM4562NA.
 
Luckily I can send the same audio (courtesy of Apple Airport Express's) to different inputs on my Receiver and switch between them so I only lose 1/2 second of audio in the process which means I can listen for discernable audible differences. I think the D1 inches ahead on being more dynamic/open at this stage, but I think in tightening up the midrange and bass it also can sound less 'full' at the bottom end. A good example would be that a bit of piano on the Receivers DAC sounds quite 'mellow' whereas the D1 is more dynamic but with it loses some of the mellow in favour of clarity - which is possibly a good thing! - I just need to get a little more used to it maybe?
 
I don't know if anyone has any suggestions at this stage on how to get a more mellow sound out of the D1, or whether my ears and perception will adjust to the new dynamics, but I guess I need to let the unit settle in a little more first. Should the D1 itself as a unit need burn in time, or just the tube?
 
Thanks again all..... I'll post updates.... 
 
 

 

[attenuated 3db]

DISCLOSURE STATEMENT: I am proudly, defiantly OS/X-ignorant, at least in terms of being instrument-rated to pilot a McInstosh (nope, that's the audio brand I cut my salesman's teeth on at age 20) - I mean Macinstoh.

So I have no idea how your software processes *.FLAC music files at either the OS or application level.

I consider iTunes to be "bloatware" that Steve Jobs conceived of to "corner the market" on the music industry via the iPod and the ITunes online music store, just like Bill Gates drove Netscape out-of-business, by claiming, in Federal Court, that Internet Explorer 3.0 was a necessary part of the Windows 95 operating system, and Windows 95 simply "would't work" without it. Judge Thomas Penfield Jackson, not a computer nerd but a very smart man, expressed open skepticism of this claim from the bench.

Anyway, I'm typing this post from my four-year-old (goes for $100 now on eBay) HP Core-2-duo notebook with a self-installed 40-gb. Intel SSD and Ubuntu Linux 10.10. I'd rather have it any day than all of the flashy aluminum-unibody-construction MacBook Pros I see the eager little college kids around me staring at.

Good luck finding a job once you get that degree of yours; hope at least your flashy computer is paid off, unlike the student loans you will be saddled with.

So, Apple-vent satisfied.

I was baffled as to why my D1 disappointed me in terms of SQ, also. I tried my Sony i7's optical output, but although it gave me the ability to play a few 24/96 files that the USB input could not process at their native rate, it was no better than USB. Then I got this gizmo:

http://www.circuitsathome.com/measurements/usb-isolator

... and the SQ improved instantly. When I got my Teralink X2 with its low-jitter 1ppm TCXO re-clocking circuit:

http://www.teradak.com/ProductsView.Asp?id=21

... and went into the D1's 75-ohm coax input, it got even better. But I use Windows 7 Service Pack 1 (with a new, much improved USB sound driver; nothing works right with any version of any Windows operating system until at least Service Pack 1) with Foobar2K (free like Linux), so I am guessing this is either a software or transport/connection issue.

Not really anything else it could be; our D1's are identical, so it has to be further "upstream" in the audio reproduction chain.

 

[Mouseboy007]

Haha.... interesting links, although at present I feed my audio through optical, so am not sure I would greatly benefit, but thanks anyway!
 
Slightly off-topic, but .... personally I know little about OSX either, I have 2x Apple Airport Express's as they're a cheap/convenient was to stream wirelessly from my PC to my mid-fi. I have 2x as I once lived in a house with a separate dining room (i.e. where I convinced 'the boss' I should have my turntable and stereo amp - the AV Receiver lives in the living room). I use a Windows laptop and iTunes but if there was a way to use a different media player to directly stream to the Airport Expresses, or alternatively different hardware that is as inexpensive and offers the same benefits (being able to use a laptop screen to browse a library of music, click on a track and have it transmit wirelessly to one or more units) then I'd likely change in a flash!
 
iTunes bloatware? Whatever do you mean (http://www.oldapps.com/itunes.php) I recently downloaded 4.6 as ALL I want is to browse and stream music.
<RANT> I don't have an iPod, and iPad, an iPhone or similar such gizmo. I don't want to organise my videos or photo's I JUST WANT MY MUSIC </RANT>
 
I also have a Roku M1000 collecting dust (http://soundbridge.roku.com/showcase.php Image 23) as it's too slow for me to use a handheld remote control to browse through thousands of tracks/artists/albums and squint at a small vacuum fluorescent display from 15ft away. That's one great thing iTunes does have in it's favour (for my usage), the ability to very quickly skip around a music library and find music and to be able to select a track and hear it back on my AV system a split second later.
 
Anyway, back on topic, the USB issue seems to be with (interestingly) a HP laptop with Windows7, using a Dell Laptop with Windows 7 the 'interference' noises are gone.
I guess it's either the USB ports / drivers on the HP laptop.
 
At this stage I'm not overwhelmed by the D1, It's good - better sounding maybe than the inbuilt DAC in my Receiver, but not phenomenally (not yet at least).
Other factors I have to consider are whether the Receiver is definitely bypassing the internal DAC when it outputs to analogue - from what I've read, having the 'input' set to 2Stereo with no after-effect sound DSP/processing means I get a clear analogue path. Furthermore, maybe the Receiver itself and the way it outputs to the speakers is a limiting factor. i might try out the DAC on my old-fi. I can guarantee there is no digital impact there. 

 
Having said that, I'm quite taken by the little unit and it's making me want to try out a decent set of headphones next (when the overtime comes in to pay for them), so I couldn't really say I'm vastly underwhelmed.
 
So, I'm not particularly overwhelmed or underwhelmed. I guess that means I can coin a new phrase and say I'm just 'whelmed'. 

I'm hoping my opinion changes more favourably after letting the tube bed-in for a little or maybe tube-rolling it again.
 
Mouseboy007
 
 
 
 
 

 

[uelover]

 
Quote:

 
Other factors I have to consider are whether the Receiver is definitely bypassing the internal DAC when it outputs to analogue - from what I've read, having the 'input' set to 2Stereo with no after-effect sound DSP/processing means I get a clear analogue path.

 
With DSP activated, the analogue signal will be converted (Analogue -> ADC -> DSP -> DAC -> Analogue). Shutting down the DSP mode should pull off the trick, unless the circuit is dumb to convert a pure analogue signal into digital and then back into analogue which, in this case, will affect the sound through the quality of the ADC and DAC.
 
In any case, connecting the digital input right to the receiver and connecting the digital input first to D1 and then to the receiver via an analogue cable will use the same amplifier within the receiver. You should just rely on whichever route that sounds more to your liking rather than trying to figure out which one functions as a better pure DAC unless you are thinking of changing your audio set up =)
 
I will have to admit that the tube and opamp do affect the sound of D1 by quite an extent. For more mellow sound GE tube + OPA627 (a tad too warm at times) will fit your bill perfectly. Western Electric tube are a good buy too. Bendix tube (or anything that sounds close to it) are brighter and more dynamic. LT1364 is quite flat.
 
D1 is a tiny multi-purpose unit that costs 1/5 the price of your Harman Kardon Receiver. It is not a monster beater, but it definitely holds its ground =)
 

 

[Mouseboy007]

Thanks uelover,
 
My understanding is that if ANY sound processing is performed that the signal has to follow a digital path (ADC?) and then of course be converted back to analogue.
So what I was saying (and I may be wrong) is that if I add an audio effect such as increasing bass or (heaven forbid) applying an audio mode (Logic7 Music etc / 5-Speaker-Stereo etc) that the signal is manipulated at a digital stage somewhere:
 
My understanding:
Analogue in > 2 Stereo 'mode' > Analgue (speakers) out
Analogue in > 5 Stereo 'mode' > signal to DSP (via ADC?) > DSP to inbuilt DAC > Analgue (speakers) out
 
Hope that makes sense - please correct any mistakes I've made. I'd describe myself as 'interested' and 'knowledge-seeking' rather than 'knowledgeable' 

I'll pick up the OPA627 and keep an eye out for some other tubes (especially the GE 5670's).
 
You mention that the "D1 is a tiny multi-purpose unit that costs 1/5 the price of (my) Harman Kardon Receiver", but the HK Receiver is SO multipurpuse it makes me wonder how much effort has been applied to the DAC stage, my guess is that even the DAC stage is 'multipurpose' in that it's probably more geared towards various sound and video modes rather than pure stereo (bliss) as the D1 is. Therefore I had hoped for a marked improvement using an external DAC. I know I could have bought a more expensive DAC, but that kind of defeats the purpose when the Receiver was bought used for 'just' £240 (~$390).
 
I know a Receiver will never really compare to a separate Stereo Amp, but due to budget and space constraints, I'm trying to make the best of what I have with audiophile sensibilities and janitor money 

 

[Mouseboy007]

WOW, I've just looked at the OPA627 here in the UK. It seems to be upwards of £25 ($40).
I've found two OPA627's and am not sure of the difference between the AP and BP suffixes (except one is more money).
 
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/displayProduct.jsp?sku=1212318&CMP=e-2072-00001000
http://uk.farnell.com/texas-instruments/opa627apg4/op-amp-difet-precision-dip8-627/dp/1218524?Ntt=OPA627APG4
 
I've googled for OPA627 and found a few people compare the AD827 to it in different applications.
Will the AD827 be comparable in a D1 does anyone know? It;s certainly a third of the price!
 
http://uk.farnell.com/analog-devices/ad827jnz/op-amp-dual-high-speed-dip8-827/dp/9603662
 
Thanks again,
 
Mouseboy007

 

[uelover]

Yes you are right. I edited my post while you were typing your reply! Haha.
 
In any case, you have really gotten a good deal for the receiver! Nonetheless, if you are only using the amp section of the receiver and all the analogue/digital inputs are connected to the D1, having a receiver is such a waste!

 
Part of the cost in D1 are directed towards the headamp stage too so I am just curious why didn't you get a pure external DAC such as the upcoming D2 or V-DAC? (switching between sources may be a pain though). If you need the headamp, that may be another story altogether.
 
If you can afford, going straight to WE tube would be a wise choice because you will always wonder about how much better it will sound compared to the GE tube =)
 
Btw, OPA627 is a single opamp so you will need a brown dog adapter to make it dual. Something like this might work: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Pair-Dual-both-side-BB-OPA627AU-SOIC-DIP-adapter-/220740638997?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33652ad915

 

[Mouseboy007]

Quote:

Nonetheless, if you are only using the amp section of the receiver and all the analogue/digital inputs are connected to the D1, having a receiver is such a waste!

 
Actually I use my Receiver for a lot more than stereo music - I watch films and TV through it so not a total waste 

It's just for music I prefer a nice warm stereo sound, but don't have space/money for a stereo amp - not without getting rid of my movie surround sound!
 
I didn't get a pure external DAC for two reasons:
1) I wanted Tube output
2) I didn't want to wait for the new D1 (D2?) 

Maybe when the D2 has been available for a few months and it has been upgraded and modified, I'll replace the D1 with the D2?
 
also, I wasn't sure how much difference a DAC would make. The D1 was affordable and I'm pretty sure I could sell it on ebay in a month or two for about the same price (but with the added opamps/tube). I'll probably keep it - at least until the new D1 DAC has been tried and tested.
 
 
Quote:

btw, OPA627 is a single opamp so you will need a brown dog adapter to make it dual.

 
What is a dog adapter? I suppose I could look on google but if you have an easy explanation that would help. Do I need to modify any part of the D1 if I replace the LM4562 with a OPA627? I posted a question a moment ago about OPA627's and AS827 etc. 
 
There certainly are a lot of possible configurations!