Maverick Audio DAC/Amp
Dec 30, 2009 at 11:48 PM Post #391 of 2,660
Quote:

Originally Posted by SPACEACE /img/forum/go_quote.gif
If you look at the XS or Grant boards which are VERY close you can see the build quality is MUCH better and rumor has these come from the same factory... New workers or what??? Just my 2 cents... I'll still buy one as soon as bit perfect gets fixed via usb, the internals I can redo myself
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From what I've read, they are not from the factory anymore. Grant made a deal with the manufactory to be the exclusive distributor in the US. So, I doubt the Mav is from that factory. Most likely, Mav found another manufactory in China to produce it. Also, looks like there are a few minor changes compare to the Grant / XS.
 
Dec 30, 2009 at 11:54 PM Post #392 of 2,660
Hey SPACEACE, did you look at the internals on my ImageShack album that I posted? If so, are they equally messy?

Maybe it was just a factory screwup?

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Dec 31, 2009 at 12:06 AM Post #393 of 2,660
Quote:

Originally Posted by TheBigCW /img/forum/go_quote.gif
[...]are they equally messy?


Looks a little bit better than mine.

Doesn't bother me though - good sound is my highest priority, and if I don't knock it around I shouldn't have any issues.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DannagE /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Leave the cover on and you won't know the resistors aren't 100% lined up?
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That's my strategy.
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Dec 31, 2009 at 12:16 AM Post #394 of 2,660
Quote:

Originally Posted by viodea /img/forum/go_quote.gif
From what I've read, they are not from the factory anymore. Grant made a deal with the manufactory to be the exclusive distributor in the US. So, I doubt the Mav is from that factory. Most likely, Mav found another manufactory in China to produce it. Also, looks like there are a few minor changes compare to the Grant / XS.



I'm inclined to agree. The internals looks like the same design as my xs version, but the build quality of my xs version looks much better than the one from the pics of the mav I just saw. Another reason why I went with the version from the oem.
 
Dec 31, 2009 at 4:49 AM Post #395 of 2,660
I've had my Maverick Audio 'D1' now since a week before Christmas, i'm extremely happy with it, it was bought mostly as an headphone unit, this is where a very slight drawback lies.

When the unit is lying idle i can hear a very distant hum at volume down, as i increase the volume upto say 9 o'clock the slight hiss then over rides the hum, does anyone else experience this & maybe know the cause..Maybe the mains transformer or the cheap potentiometer?

Also i've tried getting a Schematic from Maverick as i'm intrested in trying a few alterations out but got no reply from them, anyone know where i can obtain a drawing please?
 
Dec 31, 2009 at 6:20 AM Post #396 of 2,660
I don't have any hum with my xs version. I can also confirm that I get bit perfect using usb as well. It's definitely an improvement using asio4all using usb vs direct sound using usb. It wouldn't have been an issue for me anyway because I use coaxial out from my motherboard. I hope you get it worked out.
 
Dec 31, 2009 at 6:30 AM Post #397 of 2,660
I have no hum on my box.

And yes, mine does resample to 48khz. It's not a big deal to me, though.
 
Dec 31, 2009 at 9:15 AM Post #398 of 2,660
Quote:

Originally Posted by TheBigCW /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Is it only with that copy? If so, then it's probably the rip. If not, then it might be a problem with the tube. What's your source? It could be a problem with your speakers. Do you hear the clipping on any other song? Does the same thing happen when you don't use the tube out?


Quote:

Originally Posted by JustVisit /img/forum/go_quote.gif
That's the suggestion I will give as well. Also, a side note, tube need some time to "warm up" to get in to working mode. If you just turn on the DAC, wait a few minutes before you use the tube pre out stage.

You can also submit a ticket for our support.



Thanks for the great suggestions. I think it's a combination of things. I do not think the unit is defective, or the tube is bad at this point. I would also be very surprised if a new rip with the same settings changed anything, but I have an older Pioneer DVD-ROM that has better compatibility with certain older CD's that could prove me wrong.

I think that the tube pre-out runs hot; I'm pretty sure that I read, maybe somewhere in this thread, that the tube pre-out on the D1 has 20% more output power than the SS side with the "direct" button engaged. It is therefore variable when you want it to be for that reason. Even though I had already tried it both ways, I decided after reading this about the NuForce uDAC to give the volume pot another shot.

When I powered up from scratch, I went with the "direct" button disengaged and used the volume control. I was able to re-set the volume on the D1 and my receiver differently where there was not so much gain from the D1 and everything was fine with the same relative room volume, or even higher (I could not get the speakers to clip this way). I do not like this method so much, as I have a "pet peeve" against redundant volume controls
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Then I ran it "direct" once more, and it clipped again. I compared the sound with my Fubar I/O, since they were already both hooked up to the receiver. The Fubar I/O has more resolution in the low end; easy to tell with this recording. This is not a fair comparison for a few reasons:
1) the Fubar has the optional "Supplier" PSU, that could account for the difference right there;
2) I am not going through the tube, or the Maverick at all, with the Fubar;
3) the tube on the D1 is still burning in, and will resolve more fully soon.

The Fubar is also on a fixed, non-variable line in (inline with my phono stage), and did not clip at high volume with the same ripped recording; I imagine the devilsound would distort my speakers with this bass (through no fault of its own) though, as this is a very good recording for reference bass. That is why I don't have the devilsound DAC anymore btw, it exposed too many limits in my "live" system! Very HQ, very forward. Probably get another one someday though as it was very nice.

Anyways, back to the Maverick D1; it's warmed up now and the bass is better, but still not quite a defined as the Fubar's; different. I would say that the Fubar is more neutral, and tighter, as a DAC. But it could be the tube. If I keep the volume knob at halfway when in "volume control" mode, and let it warm up, no problemo, I love the D1 again, and I guess I can live with the redundant volume controls this time. At least the system volume on my Mac Pro is disabled, though I think it always is with it's separate optical out
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I haven't tried the D1 into my receiver with the SS out because while my receiver is a very good one for the money, the nine discrete amps are 100% digital; they need the tube flavor. Also, the SS outs are going into a better tubed headphone amp (HiFiMAN EF-5), so that's the way it has to be
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Having said that, the headphone amp on the D1 is surprisingly good, and will drive all but the pickiest of cans, IMHO
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So I promise that I will re-rip (someday) and try switching inputs (in the future), but I am satified again. For now
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I am trying to clarify a few things, that I think I know, "for sure" though:
1) the headphone jack on the D1 is always SS, never tube;
2) the direct button bypasses the volume control for both inputs, but the headphone out is always controlled by the volume knob;
3) I can to roll in a 6922 type of tube that I already have on order to try in something else, into my D1 to see how it sounds. It's a "PCC88 Philips A frame" I got for an Indeed Hybrid.

Pretty sure 1 & 2 above are right and 3) is totally wrong, please correct me if necessary
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EDIT: It looks like I can try my tube?:
"The WE396A is an incredible tube. Originally used by ATT for telephone amplifiers, it sounds rich, dynamic and detailed. It has low noise and low microphonics. It can sound better than any 6922 or 7308 in the right preamp application. Perfect for the Shandling CD Player It has the same pinout as the 2C51 or 5670, but is the best of breed. In original Western Electric boxes!"
 
Dec 31, 2009 at 9:39 AM Post #399 of 2,660
Quote:

Originally Posted by SPACEACE /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Thanks for the great pictures. I don't post often or ever really, but have been a lurker here for many a year.
I'll say this. Whoever designed the case for the Maverick should be giving a big thumbs up. A VERY nice Case. BUT!!! My oh my they must have chimps working on the internals...



That's what happened you have a good close up macro mode shots on a hand soldering PCB board without photoshop
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The PCB board looks just fine from your eye, but the detail shots reveal every single detail.

It is not a PCB board made by SMT machine, it doesn't use surface mount components, they are far too big for the machine. Every single components on this board are soldering by hand. The PCB board are made by professional workers, however, imagine you have to finish a dozen boards every day. I can spend a few days on soldering a single PCB board to make sure everything is perfect, but I am a hobbyist, not a factory worker. They just don't have the time to put the components in a nice presentation. The PCB board will work just fine
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Dec 31, 2009 at 10:04 AM Post #400 of 2,660
Quote:

Originally Posted by ELP FAN /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I've had my Maverick Audio 'D1' now since a week before Christmas, i'm extremely happy with it, it was bought mostly as an headphone unit, this is where a very slight drawback lies.

When the unit is lying idle i can hear a very distant hum at volume down, as i increase the volume upto say 9 o'clock the slight hiss then over rides the hum, does anyone else experience this & maybe know the cause..Maybe the mains transformer or the cheap potentiometer?



Disconnect all the cables to D1. Find a standalone wall power outlet, connect the D1, and then connect your headphone. Try that to see if there is any "hum" sound. This step is to make sure the if hum sound is from the D1, or some where else. Since there are many things which can cause the "hum" sound.
 
Dec 31, 2009 at 10:20 AM Post #401 of 2,660
Quote:

Originally Posted by grokit /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I am trying to clarify a few things, that I think I know, "for sure" though:
1) the headphone jack on the D1 is always SS, never tube;
2) the direct button bypasses the volume control for both inputs, but the headphone out is always controlled by the volume knob;
3) I can to roll in a 6922 type of tube that I already have on order to try in something else, into my D1 to see how it sounds. It's a "PCC88 Philips A frame" I got for an Indeed Hybrid.

Pretty sure 1 & 2 above are right and 3) is totally wrong, please correct me if necessary
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The only tube you can try is 5670 tube. 6922/6DJ8 tube doesn't work with D1.
 
Dec 31, 2009 at 3:00 PM Post #402 of 2,660
I've encountered some puzzling behavior in the headphone amp of my maverick.

Firstly, I tried disconnecting everything and plugging it in to a separate power outlet, the hum is still there. The hum is the worst when the volume dial is all the way down, as I turn the volume up the hum diminishes and reveals noise.

Secondly, whenever I try to listen to music through the headphone amp, not only is there that hum, but only the left channel is audible. If I turn the volume all the way down, the right channel only is faintly audible.

Tested, working fine on the tube out with the same setup and same recordings.

What gives?
 
Dec 31, 2009 at 4:32 PM Post #403 of 2,660
Quote:

Originally Posted by thearrow /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I've encountered some puzzling behavior in the headphone amp of my maverick...


Two questions:
- Do you notice the same problem when you try your HD280 with the DAC for the first time?

- Please try the normal audio output to see if there is any problem. Headphone amp section is part of the solid state out. If normal audio output is working okay, then it looks very much like a "loose cable" issue...

Let me know and I will help you further on trouble shooting.
I will recommend you to open a support ticket with us, in that way, we will not waste space here on trouble shooting.
 
Dec 31, 2009 at 4:48 PM Post #404 of 2,660
Thanks for the quick reply.

I guess I should have mentioned those two things in my first post. The first time I tried the headphone amp it was fine, except for the hum. The solid state out on the back still works just fine.

Sounds like a loose cable issue, then. I'll double check to make sure I didn't bump anything when I took it apart.

Is there anything I can do to get rid of this hum?

If it's not a simple fix I'll open a ticket.


EDIT: Pretty spooky... I took it apart, everything looked fine, I just checked all of the cable connections.... Now I have sound in both channels.

Still that annoying hum, though....

Also, the gain is soooo high on the headphone amp. Will higher impedance, harder-to-drive phones like the HD600s cooperate better with this amp?
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Dec 31, 2009 at 5:28 PM Post #405 of 2,660
Quote:

Originally Posted by thearrow /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Thanks for the quick reply.
EDIT: Pretty spooky... I took it apart, everything looked fine, I just checked all of the cable connections.... Now I have sound in both channels.
Still that annoying hum, though....
Also, the gain is soooo high on the headphone amp. Will higher impedance, harder-to-drive phones like the HD600s cooperate better with this amp?
beyersmile.png



-I suspect one of the cables connect to headphone output is moved either during transportation or when you close the case of the amp. Glad to know it is good now.
-I will get some suggestions on the "hum" sound from the engineer. It will take some time since now is New Year holiday. Technically, there shouldn't be hum sound since the amp stage is shutdown when there is no audio signal feed. I still suspect it has something to do with the power or grounding.

-higher impedance headphone will definitely work better with this amp.
 

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