Nazo
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2008
- Posts
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Which cable did you use? I initially used the Canare Quad Star on my D1001, but when I got my D2000 I decided to try the Mogami. Honestly, I think the Mogami suits the Denons better. Ironically, it's actually coloring the sound a bit (in particular, it seems to be focused primarily on the mids with the highs and lows a bit more recessed) but IMO this complements the Denons very nicely. It's ironic because normally I would say the Mogami probably isn't the better choice of the two after seeing its bias, but really it just seems to suit the Denons so well. (I have a suspicion that this is on purpose as the Mogami probably covers the human voice range best of all and it IS, after all, technically a microphone cable.) The end result is a much more even sound I think. One thing I did that helped with the sheer thickness of the cables was to remove the insulation and outer shielding and just use a relatively thin shrink tubing that fits tight enough to keep the wire from untwisting. This made the far thicker cables when modified actually thinner than the originally thinner cables of the two sizes.)
BTW, on the subject of cable lengths, I also decided to try to do this part as rightly as possible on my D2000s. Rather than picking one particular length right off, I just ran a short bit from the cans to a 6.3mm Neutrik connector and then I made two cables with 6.3mm Neutrik connectors on one end and 3.5mm on the other end. One cable was long and the other short. I'm sure those with golden ears would be pretty unhappy with this, but I used the 6.3mm connectors because they have the least degradation of what I could find. (Technically it would be better yet with 6.3mm on both sides, but everything I have uses 3.5mm.) If I want it to go further, I use the longer cord. If it's just to something close by, I use the shorter one. No need for separate extensions (and the sound isn't changed by such a cable either.)
BTW, don't forget that even the D1000s need burn-in. As I recall, they didn't need much though. I think the sound settled at least somewhat around 40 hours or so even.
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I just switched from a modded D1001 to a modded D2000 and frankly the D2000 is worlds better in the ways it's different but it has overall a very similar sort of sound, so I can't see why you'd prefer the D1000. Why not just go ahead and modify the D2000? It's not really any harder than the D1000. In fact, I found it easier to get them open and to deal with the pads.
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I don't think it should affect the driver itself (unless you cover up that air hole, but that would be a very bad thing.) Mostly it just helps decrease the effects from the bass itself.
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For me at least, increasing tended to reduce bass further. I felt like it had overall more clarity. Be careful though, it's easy to go too far and make it actually loose quality, even affecting other ranges pretty badly. Also, I swear I read somewhere that it's supposed to increase the effects of the highs. For me it actually helped even the highs a bit more which was a good thing because I must admit that the highs when I first got my modded D2000 were a bit sibilant. Between the Mogami cable and the stuffing the highs are now at the upper edge, but no longer bad enough to bother me. I initially used a cheaper stuffing (and this is what I left in the D1001 before I gave it away) but for some reason I didn't like the extra padding in the D2000s, so I pulled some of that out and put it inside instead. The stuff used there was a much better sort (Mountain Mist I would presume given that MarkL probably has a lot of it and it's still cheap despite being better) and I think it further helped with all of this. (Lol, I'll admit that at this point my D2000s probably have a sound that he would hate.)
Anyway, if you want more punch, you'll want less stuffing. In the D2000s I actually used probably more like half of what he described in that old post describing the mod. I pulled the fiberloft out as thin as I possibly could while trying to keep an actual layer (eg no big holes in it) and then I added one more layer on top of that. For me at least this got the bass to about the perfect point. The Denons definitely have a strong bass response, lol. For me this actually required a lot of toning down.
PS. If you look on the charts for the frequency responses for the various Denon headphones, you'll probably notice that they have a much smoother flow compared to most other headphones. I think this is probably a great picture of how they end up sounding so much more even and smooth.
Originally Posted by mfaughn /img/forum/go_quote.gif I just got my D1001s. I listenened to them for 5 minutes and proceeded to recable and damp them. ... I made my cable really short, about 24", because I intend these to terminate in my shirt pocket most of the time. The result is that I have to use a (q-jays) extension to get from my chair to my amp. I am now a believer, for sure, of cable making a difference. That extension has a definite effect on the highs (maybe more but definitely highs). Funny that it might actually be a good thing for making some cans less fatiguing. |
Which cable did you use? I initially used the Canare Quad Star on my D1001, but when I got my D2000 I decided to try the Mogami. Honestly, I think the Mogami suits the Denons better. Ironically, it's actually coloring the sound a bit (in particular, it seems to be focused primarily on the mids with the highs and lows a bit more recessed) but IMO this complements the Denons very nicely. It's ironic because normally I would say the Mogami probably isn't the better choice of the two after seeing its bias, but really it just seems to suit the Denons so well. (I have a suspicion that this is on purpose as the Mogami probably covers the human voice range best of all and it IS, after all, technically a microphone cable.) The end result is a much more even sound I think. One thing I did that helped with the sheer thickness of the cables was to remove the insulation and outer shielding and just use a relatively thin shrink tubing that fits tight enough to keep the wire from untwisting. This made the far thicker cables when modified actually thinner than the originally thinner cables of the two sizes.)
BTW, on the subject of cable lengths, I also decided to try to do this part as rightly as possible on my D2000s. Rather than picking one particular length right off, I just ran a short bit from the cans to a 6.3mm Neutrik connector and then I made two cables with 6.3mm Neutrik connectors on one end and 3.5mm on the other end. One cable was long and the other short. I'm sure those with golden ears would be pretty unhappy with this, but I used the 6.3mm connectors because they have the least degradation of what I could find. (Technically it would be better yet with 6.3mm on both sides, but everything I have uses 3.5mm.) If I want it to go further, I use the longer cord. If it's just to something close by, I use the shorter one. No need for separate extensions (and the sound isn't changed by such a cable either.)
BTW, don't forget that even the D1000s need burn-in. As I recall, they didn't need much though. I think the sound settled at least somewhat around 40 hours or so even.
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For what these are and what they do and what I paid for them I like them much more than I do my D2000. (The D2000 are unmodded and are their way out the door because I just don't think there is any way I'll prefer them to the K701.) |
I just switched from a modded D1001 to a modded D2000 and frankly the D2000 is worlds better in the ways it's different but it has overall a very similar sort of sound, so I can't see why you'd prefer the D1000. Why not just go ahead and modify the D2000? It's not really any harder than the D1000. In fact, I found it easier to get them open and to deal with the pads.
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I didn't damp the driver, just the cups. What exactly would the expected effect be? On person mentioned it slowing them down but this doesn't exactly make sense to me. If anything it seems like it *should* speed them up. |
I don't think it should affect the driver itself (unless you cover up that air hole, but that would be a very bad thing.) Mostly it just helps decrease the effects from the bass itself.
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I put about as much polyfill in there as is shown in post #1. What are the expected effects of increasing and decreasing the amount of this stuff in there? I could still do with a little less boom and a little more punch but I would hesitate to give up any extension. |
For me at least, increasing tended to reduce bass further. I felt like it had overall more clarity. Be careful though, it's easy to go too far and make it actually loose quality, even affecting other ranges pretty badly. Also, I swear I read somewhere that it's supposed to increase the effects of the highs. For me it actually helped even the highs a bit more which was a good thing because I must admit that the highs when I first got my modded D2000 were a bit sibilant. Between the Mogami cable and the stuffing the highs are now at the upper edge, but no longer bad enough to bother me. I initially used a cheaper stuffing (and this is what I left in the D1001 before I gave it away) but for some reason I didn't like the extra padding in the D2000s, so I pulled some of that out and put it inside instead. The stuff used there was a much better sort (Mountain Mist I would presume given that MarkL probably has a lot of it and it's still cheap despite being better) and I think it further helped with all of this. (Lol, I'll admit that at this point my D2000s probably have a sound that he would hate.)
Anyway, if you want more punch, you'll want less stuffing. In the D2000s I actually used probably more like half of what he described in that old post describing the mod. I pulled the fiberloft out as thin as I possibly could while trying to keep an actual layer (eg no big holes in it) and then I added one more layer on top of that. For me at least this got the bass to about the perfect point. The Denons definitely have a strong bass response, lol. For me this actually required a lot of toning down.
PS. If you look on the charts for the frequency responses for the various Denon headphones, you'll probably notice that they have a much smoother flow compared to most other headphones. I think this is probably a great picture of how they end up sounding so much more even and smooth.