So I'm a total beginner, but this sounds like what I need. I'm loving my AH-D1001S cans to death for the prices (I just can't afford the higher end products) and they just blew me away from the moment they burned in enough to open up (which didn't take very long.) However, I will admit that the bass could definitely use some work. This sounds like just what I need. I'm also grabbing some cable to recable it while I'm at it since I might just as well do that while I have it open and all. I do have a few questions though if someone will indulge my "noobishness" in the matter (I'll admit I'm extremely new to this sort of thing):
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bostonears /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Prior to permanently mounting the Dynamat, place it into the cup without removing the adhesive backing. This will form the Dynamat into the desired concave shape. Then, extract the Dynamat, remove the adhesive backing and install it. To minimize air bubbles, start pressing the material firmly in place in the center of the cup, working your way outward. As Markl noted, you need to make sure every square millimeter of the Dynamat is firmly adhered. If you have any air bubbles, work them toward an edge, where you will here a snap sound when they are released (like the pop of chewing gum). If you are unable get air bubbles to the edge, you can use an X-Acto knife to cut through the Dynamat and squeeze out the air.
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One thing I'm not clear on is what the OP means by "installing" the Dynamat when you actually are supposed to remove the adhesive. How will it stick if you remove the adhesive? It seems to me like if I stick it in there and then pull it back out I'll end up having to loose all of the shape in the process of getting it out anyway though, so I'm not sure how well that will work. Also, I'm kind of wondering how well I can really get out the air bubbles. I've always had serious troubles with this when doing things like applying screen protectors. On my PDA I had bought a set of sheets and went through some four sheets or so I think before I got it and it still got one little speck of dust in it. On a Nintendo DS I managed to get the bubbles out, but then at one point apparently a really tiny speck of dust I missed got in. How bad would it be if an air bubble stayed in or some speck of dust for that matter since it seems I'm doomed to having these sneak in when I'm not looking? Is it really better to cut a hole in the Dynamat to try to get it out than to leave it? Lol, it strikes me that it might sort of defeat the purpose somewhat if it's perforated with little holes. I realize that individually they'd be very thin and you can sort of press it tight to try to compensate, but what if I have a bunch of bubbles that are stubburn? I just wanted to check before I actually begin (well, long before since the parts could take as much as a week to arrive apparently.)
I can't wait really to see what all of this does. Especially the cabling as if what they are saying about the stock cable is at all accurate even I can believe that changing the cables could have a significant effect. (Besides, at about $13 after shipping for a pretty decent length of cable that gives me enough extra to use on a bunch of other things after I'm done with this I see no harm in having something a little tougher.) Maybe I'll even have enough Dynamat left over to treat something else (such as maybe its intended purpose in my car, though really what I need there is better speakers first and foremost.)
PS. Apparently Amazon's saver shipping only applies if you get multiple products with saver shipping. I ended up removing the Dynamat with the saver shipping and buying new from another seller just to get it close to the price that was SUPPOSED to be since it was adding quite a fair bit for shipping even though I had over $30 of items in my cart. Personally, money is a bit tight for me, so I couldn't really afford to buy just anything -- it had to be something I very specifically needed.
I think I posted before about the cable change?? Be VERY careful when de-soldering and soldering. As you can see from the original ops pics. The solder point is on a small plate that is only held in place by the plastic driver housing. On the bottom of the plate is a small lead wire that goes to the speaker. If you heat the plate up too much the lead wire will break. Also too much heat will melt the driver housing. Any Two of these small things will Ruin the cans. So be very careful and work fast. It's very forward and not to hard of a job. So just take your time, or pm me if you need help or someone to do the work, on the cheap
