[CoiL]

Everybody don`t know it, especially newcomers to this thread... dude

 
 
Edit:
 
Another interesting observation. I had multimeter out for some electronics tinkering and thought I measure 
KZ IEM impedances too. Here they are:
 
* ATE
stated impedance 16 Ohm
measured impedance L - 19.7 Ohm, R - 19.6 Ohm, L>R (left through right driver) 37.2
 
* ANV
stated impedance 18 Ohm
measured impedance L - 32.2 Ohm, R - 32.6 Ohm, L>R (left through right driver) 64.4 

 Imho, ANV needs amping for sure! 
 
* ED9
stated impedance 18 Ohm
measured impedance L - 16.1 Ohm, R - 16.4 Ohm, L>R (left through right driver) 31.6

 

[goa604]

Let me join you CoiL! 

I think you got it wrong though, i think L and R drivers are in parallel
so the overall Impedance is calculated: R_total = R1×R2/(R1+R2)e
So by your measurements ATE R_total = 9.8 Ohm
                                    ANV R_total = 16.2 Ohm
                                    ED9 R_total =  8.1 Ohm
If im wrong someone please correct me


My measurements:

* EDSE

measured impedance L- 15.6 Ohm, R - 15.6 Ohm,  Rtotal = 7.8 Ohm


* R3 

measured impedance L- 15.3 Ohm, R - 18.2 Ohm   Rtotal = 8.3 Ohm   (Huh?! L and R such different impedance?)  

I might get ANV by tuesday so i will measure my pair and post it as well. 
 

 

[CoiL]

I think you got it wrong though

I think no. That would mean my Fidelio X1 has 15Ohm impedance - it`s not possible.
Drivers share common ground point that`s all. IEM/HP impedance is measured same as with speakers.
Do some google, I think I got it totally right

 
 
Or did You mean I got those L>R (left through right) wrong? That isn`t total impedance. Each driver is being driven separated so that "stated" value is taken from one driver.

 

[goa604]

I believe headphones are connected in parallel but its impedance is presented as impedance of each driver, my Superlux 668B which say 2x56Ohm measure 60Ohm L and R both. 
Someone knowledgeable needs to get in this thread ASAP 

 
I mean when we talk about alternating current there is more to it than just ohm resistance, there is capacitive reactance and inductive reactance as well, its hell full of complications really. Impedance probably varies greatly with frequency. 

 

[CoiL]

Well, my Superlux HD681 has also written on it 2x32Ohm and it measures L 34.5 and R 33 Ohm ...but it is sold and stated everywhere as 32Ohm cans. Same thing as with my Fidelio X1.

Impedance probably varies greatly with frequency. 

Of course! Every speaker and also IEM/HP driver impedance is actually vary in different frequency range, it`s just a "golden middle" nominal number
 

Due to the reactive nature of a speaker's impedance over the audio band frequencies, giving a speaker a single value for 'impedance' rating is in principle impossible, as one may surmise from the impedance vs. frequency curve above. The nominal impedance of a loudspeaker is a convenient, single number reference that loosely describes the impedance value of the loudspeaker over a majority of the audio band. A speaker's nominal impedance is defined as:

 

 

[CoiL]

goa604 , I`m sorry but I think You are getting it wrong atm. Speaker/Driver impedance is measured separate and usually that separate value per driver is advertised as speaker/driver/IEM/HP nominal impedance. That L>R (left through right driver) measurement (series impedance) was just a thing I usually measure additionally for "checking" L/R difference. ATE can`t be a ~10 Ohm IEM like my X1 can`t be ~15 Ohm cans.

 

[knives]

  goa604 , I`m sorry but I think You are getting it wrong atm. Speaker/Driver impedance is measured separate and usually that separate value per driver is advertised as speaker/driver/IEM/HP nominal impedance. That L>R (left through right driver) measurement (series impedance) was just a thing I usually measure additionally for "checking" L/R difference. ATE can`t be a ~10 Ohm IEM like my X1 can`t be ~15 Ohm cans.

Did you measure the impedance or the resistance?
 
I believe that you actually verify the cable resistance between the plug and the splitter when you measure L>R.
 
L  = Driver  + 2x cable
R = Driver + 2x cable
 
L>R = 2x Driver + 2x cable + 2x ( cable from driver to the splitter)

 

[CoiL]

I measured impedance. Cable impedance alone should be quite small and I can`t measure it separately atm and why should I when it is already taken into account when measured from the jack? 
Or isn`t it? You guys are getting me confused. Anyway, what I tried to show with measuring driver+cable impedance is how much it differs from KZ stated impedance, that`s all.
No need to go crazy, these are just nominal numbers anyway.

 

[TwinACStacks]

Just to make it more confusing, now we have THESE ANV, Which They are calling ckw1000:
 
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-deep-bass-earpods-stereo-headphones-Top-quality-cattle-kz-ckw1000-top-in-ear-earphones/1896156587.html
 

TWIN

 

[CoiL]

That`s really weird... two different pics and one of them says CKW Pro. Cable is also changed to 5N OFC one that I linked some time ago as option for replacement cable. I think that is not legit/official version but who knows

 Maybe that CKW1000ANV is actually that "old version" of ANV all sellers are referring to?

 

[Ruben123]

seems like a diy modded version

 

[TwinACStacks]

the ones with the Blue cable and the Earth colored ends are sporting the "KZ" Logo as well. The ones I have are "GK" That Blue cable looks like some type of upgrade.
 
Really Odd.
 

TWIN

 

[bhazard]

 

the ones with the Blue cable and the Earth colored ends are sporting the "KZ" Logo as well. The ones I have are "GK" That Blue cable looks like some type of upgrade.
 
Really Odd.
 

TWIN

They are older models. I have that one and the CKW Pro. They were good, but I think the newer ED9 and ATE are better.

 

[theuprising]

Does anyone know hypothetically which one of these would pair up best with a warm amp, and benefit from amping?
 
For reference, the TTPOD T1e sounds like trash on my amp, very bassy and bloated. Maybe the ED9 will sound good?

 

[B9Scrambler]

Does anyone know hypothetically which one of these would pair up best with a warm amp, and benefit from amping?

For reference, the TTPOD T1e sounds like trash on my amp, very bassy and bloated. Maybe the ED9 will sound good?

I'm sure some of the brighter ones would pair up well: ED3, ED9 (brass), etc. The ANV pairs well with warmer stuff, and seems to benefit from the extra bit of power.