[dallan]

Funny, I just went through a handful of full sized headphones I've gotten over the years and everyone was bugging me for one reason or another. One I got fatigue another two were uncomfortable. I pulled these out of there original box from 2008 or so and they are perfect. Just right.im so happy now.

 

[Beagle]

"Re-discovery" is such a wonderful thing!

 

[Benny-x]

So, I disassembled my DX1000s and started swapping them over to the new D2000 frame that I got. Then I hit a brick wall...
 
Things were looking so good on the interwebs and I was so ready for a drop-in swap, but that's not how this is going and now I've got a lot of work ahead of me.
 
Have a look at the album I put together for it and all the photo descriptions. 
 
Problems:
1. The DX1000 wood cups currently have nothing to mount to on the D2000 headband centre frame.
2. There is a large, 5-6mm all the way around, gap around the driver chamber of the DX1000 wood cup and the centre frame of the D2000.
3. The plastic, angled earpad frame of the DX1000 has nothing to mount to on the D2000 headband centre frame.
4. The DX1000 earpad frame sits 6-7mm above the D2000 centre frame, but should be ~2mm.
5. The Amphenol mini 3pin XLR, male chassis mount connectors are too wide in diameter to fit in the current cable exit holes of the D2000 centre frame.
 
* If you can see any other problems, copy the list and add them on the bottom~
 
 
Potential Solutions, just spit-balling:
For #1 & 2-
Make a kind of base that fits into the cavity that the wood cup can attach to. It would need to be ~8-12mm thick and have pre-drilled screw holes for the wood cups to attach to. The wood cups would be attached to the custom base unit first, then the base unit would have a second set of holes to attache to the D2000 centre frame unit with.
 
There are existing holes in the D2000 centre frame that could be used for this. The base unit would be made to go across level with the centre frame of the D2000, then extend inward and fit snugly around the driver chamber of the DX1000 wood cups.
 
For #3-
The same snug fitting area that extends around the driver chamber of the DX1000 wood cups would have pre-drilled mounting holes for the DX1000 earpad frame to screw into.
 
For #4-
The screw posts that you can see in the pictures would need to be almost sanded down flat. I'm not sure if that will lower the frame enough before the posts get sanded through and then become useless, though. So, any tips here would be appreciated.
 
For #5-
Mark off and use a Dremel bore out the soft magnesium D2000 centre frame just enough to mount the 3pin mini XLR connectors and nut. Also drill out the custom base unit that will step off the DX1000 wood cups from the D2000 centre frame so that there's room.
 
 
P.S.
The above are only my ideas as I see them now, but I really need some input on this as I have no real idea of what to do. In my mind I see some how 3D printing the base unit out of something pretty dense being nice, but I have no clue of how to do that or prep any of the work that would be needed to do to make that happen.
 
The second idea I had was making a wooden spacer/base unit, but there's going to be a fair bit of it showing and it'd have to look pretty nice...
 
That's just on the outside, getting all the internals sanded and cut right would be scary. My initial reasoning for this was because I hated the feeling of the DX1000, so whatever DIY work I do I can't be doing a bad job because I'm not that kind of guy AND because it would make me want to kick myself for having ever taken them apart for that reason in the first place...

 

[227qed]

So, I disassembled my DX1000s and started swapping them over to the new D2000 frame that I got. Then I hit a brick wall...

Things were looking so good on the interwebs and I was so ready for a drop-in swap, but that's not how this is going and now I've got a lot of work ahead of me.

Have a look at the album I put together for it and all the photo descriptions. 

Problems:
1. The DX1000 wood cups currently have nothing to mount to on the D2000 headband centre frame.
2. There is a large, 5-6mm all the way around, gap around the driver chamber of the DX1000 wood cup and the centre frame of the D2000.
3. The plastic, angled earpad frame of the DX1000 has nothing to mount to on the D2000 headband centre frame.
4. The DX1000 earpad frame sits 6-7mm above the D2000 centre frame, but should be ~2mm.
5. The Amphenol mini 3pin XLR, male chassis mount connectors are too wide in diameter to fit in the current cable exit holes of the D2000 centre frame.

* If you can see any other problems, copy the list and add them on the bottom~


Potential Solutions, just spit-balling:
For #1 & 2-
Make a kind of base that fits into the cavity that the wood cup can attach to. It would need to be ~8-12mm thick and have pre-drilled screw holes for the wood cups to attach to. The wood cups would be attached to the custom base unit first, then the base unit would have a second set of holes to attache to the D2000 centre frame unit with.

There are existing holes in the D2000 centre frame that could be used for this. The base unit would be made to go across level with the centre frame of the D2000, then extend inward and fit snugly around the driver chamber of the DX1000 wood cups.

For #3-
The same snug fitting area that extends around the driver chamber of the DX1000 wood cups would have pre-drilled mounting holes for the DX1000 earpad frame to screw into.

For #4-
The screw posts that you can see in the pictures would need to be almost sanded down flat. I'm not sure if that will lower the frame enough before the posts get sanded through and then become useless, though. So, any tips here would be appreciated.

For #5-
Mark off and use a Dremel bore out the soft magnesium D2000 centre frame just enough to mount the 3pin mini XLR connectors and nut. Also drill out the custom base unit that will step off the DX1000 wood cups from the D2000 centre frame so that there's room.


P.S.
The above are only my ideas as I see them now, but I really need some input on this as I have no real idea of what to do. In my mind I see some how 3D printing the base unit out of something pretty dense being nice, but I have no clue of how to do that or prep any of the work that would be needed to do to make that happen.

The second idea I had was making a wooden spacer/base unit, but there's going to be a fair bit of it showing and it'd have to look pretty nice...

That's just on the outside, getting all the internals sanded and cut right would be scary. My initial reasoning for this was because I hated the feeling of the DX1000, so whatever DIY work I do I can't be doing a bad job because I'm not that kind of guy AND because it would make me want to kick myself for having ever taken them apart for that reason in the first place...

There's a program called sketchup that you can download for free to get the ball rolling on the 3d printed parts. It's really user friendly and will generate a file that you can send straight to a shop with a 3d printer. And bingo, you have your parts! This is what we do at my work and it's awesome to see your ideas come to life. Keep in mind that the part sizes may vary depending on the machine and that the 3d plastic is sensitive to many chemicals, and you're good to go!

 

[Benny-x]

There's a program called sketchup that you can download for free to get the ball rolling on the 3d printed parts. It's really user friendly and will generate a file that you can send straight to a shop with a 3d printer. And bingo, you have your parts! This is what we do at my work and it's awesome to see your ideas come to life. Keep in mind that the part sizes may vary depending on the machine and that the 3d plastic is sensitive to many chemicals, and you're good to go!

Thanks, I've never heard of that program before. I'll try it out.
 
What I'm thinking there will be a problem with though is actually measuring everything correctly. As you can see in the pictures, there are A LOT of little bits, bobs, curves, and holes in there to measure around, so I don't think I could do that by hand. I'm not familiar with the process, but I thought a 3D camera/scanner would have been the only way to get that into a PC for modelling and then to 3D printing. Is that true?

 

[227qed]

Thanks, I've never heard of that program before. I'll try it out.

What I'm thinking there will be a problem with though is actually measuring everything correctly. As you can see in the pictures, there are A LOT of little bits, bobs, curves, and holes in there to measure around, so I don't think I could do that by hand. I'm not familiar with the process, but I thought a 3D camera/scanner would have been the only way to get that into a PC for modelling and then to 3D printing. Is that true?

I would get some digital calipers to measure everything. You can get the precision down to .0005" with the right attention to detail and pressure. Which will be way better than you can get out of a 3d printer anyways so it definitely won't be your limiting factor. A $30 pair will be good, but if you like electronic toys, the $100 mitutoyo are really nice. That's what we use for measuring capacitors and capacitor assemblies, and they are pretty rad. I don't know about the 3d scanners, but I know for a fact you can get the calipers, measure and draw the parts you need yourself, and then send the files to a 3d print shop to be made. That's what I'd do. Have fun and let me know if there's anything else I can do to help!

 

[Benny-x]

I would get some digital calipers to measure everything. You can get the precision down to .0005" with the right attention to detail and pressure. Which will be way better than you can get out of a 3d printer anyways so it definitely won't be your limiting factor. A $30 pair will be good, but if you like electronic toys, the $100 mitutoyo are really nice. That's what we use for measuring capacitors and capacitor assemblies, and they are pretty rad. I don't know about the 3d scanners, but I know for a fact you can get the calipers, measure and draw the parts you need yourself, and then send the files to a 3d print shop to be made. That's what I'd do. Have fun and let me know if there's anything else I can do to help!

 
New tools! I've always checked out calipers, but never had a need for them. Looks like I have one now and I'll take my time, then figure out how to get all that into Sketchup like you said. 
 
Thanks a lot for the help, at least that's helping get me on some track to an answer.
 
I'd appreciate any other input from anyone else, though  Besides buying a pair of digital calipers and checking out Sketchup, I'm not going to be diving into any fixes too fast. Getting other ideas and putting together a plan is the plan for now. I really hope to get a quality result from all this.

 

[Peti]

In case someone wants to give it a shot...

http://www.head-fi.org/forum/newestpost/808737

 

[bubblegum]

Today one of the cup pf my dx 1000 detached, as the small piece of plastic maintaining it on the side (the one with the 2 screws) broke definitely.
It already broke 2 years ago, but I could repair it with glue, and it lasted until now with it being broken for good.
 
I love these headphones, and I'm at a loss to know what to do to repair them. All of this for that ****ty piece of plastic that we all know
his a very weak point of the design of this headphone.
 
Any suggestion on what I could do ?

 

[dallan]

I need new EarPads myself. Almost bought them yesterday.

 

[Cecala]

  Today one of the cup pf my dx 1000 detached, as the small piece of plastic maintaining it on the side (the one with the 2 screws) broke definitely.
It already broke 2 years ago, but I could repair it with glue, and it lasted until now with it being broken for good.
 
I love these headphones, and I'm at a loss to know what to do to repair them. All of this for that ****ty piece of plastic that we all know
his a very weak point of the design of this headphone.
 
Any suggestion on what I could do ?

There are quite a few places here were people have a service to repair headphones, a quick search should help you.

 

[Benny-x]

  Today one of the cup pf my dx 1000 detached, as the small piece of plastic maintaining it on the side (the one with the 2 screws) broke definitely.
It already broke 2 years ago, but I could repair it with glue, and it lasted until now with it being broken for good.
 
I love these headphones, and I'm at a loss to know what to do to repair them. All of this for that ****ty piece of plastic that we all know
his a very weak point of the design of this headphone.
 
Any suggestion on what I could do ?

It is annoying, that shhhity piece of plastic. 
 
Just go all out, join the fight with me of putting the DX1000 drivers and cups in a Denon D2/5/7000 frame. It's a challenge to figure out, but when it's done it'll be great. 
 
I'm getting calipers now to start measuring the frame of the D2000 headband assembly so that I can have some spacers made up for it, as 227qed recommended above. 

 

[bubblegum]

  It is annoying, that shhhity piece of plastic. 
 
Just go all out, join the fight with me of putting the DX1000 drivers and cups in a Denon D2/5/7000 frame. It's a challenge to figure out, but when it's done it'll be great. 
 
I'm getting calipers now to start measuring the frame of the D2000 headband assembly so that I can have some spacers made up for it, as 227qed recommended above. 

 
I'd love doing this but it is way over my competence.
I could somewhat partially put back the piece of plastic although it is not looking nice.
I can use it this way but its obviously not a long term solution...
 

 

[Benny-x]

 
I'd love doing this but it is way over my competence.
I could somewhat partially put back the piece of plastic although it is not looking nice.
I can use it this way but its obviously not a long term solution...
 

If only there was a way to record and post my horrified scream for you when I saw that picture. Man I'd be SOOOOOO pissed if that happened to mine. Mine weren't that far gone by the time I decided I'd had enough and started looking for a D2000 frame, but I knew they'd get there. 
 
As for the work, haha, I also TOTALLY don't have the skills or experience to do what I'm trying now with the D2000 frame transplant. But, I can sure as hell take a shot at it and I'm gonna get some result out of it

 

[coolcat]

go do it guys, the plastic parts of the Dx1000 is really annoying, once it cracks, it will go on cracking, hope you guys succeed with the Mod.