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I tried creative labs warcraft headset earpads on mine. more comfortable, slightly better soundstage
I had to try these cans out after reading some good reviews..And since they are very cheap i bought them from amzon.co.uk
Right out of the box i was impressed with how even and smooth they sounded. But i just had to do some modifications to get some more rigidity in the cups since i found the bass rather boomy. So i opened them up and added some dampening tac and then i also tossed in some cotton to dampen them even further. I was sort of surprised that the cups where so flimsy, the plastic feels very light and fragile and they are completely hollow with no dampening from the factory what so ever.
Well, when i completed this i had a listen and wow..This helped allot! The bass is much firmer now and the resonance from the flimsy cups is gone. For me these sound like a more settled down version of the shure SRH-840, very similar detail and overall good and firm clarity.
I think JVC has something great going on with these cans..The lack of dampening and thicker cups an baffles is probably to keep the cost down. Just ad it yourself and you have a great sounding can! I much prefer this JVC to my ATH-M50..Maby even so then my beloved SRH-840, and for what price? 1/4 of the above mentioned..What a bargain!
So is that all people have done, 3 mods? Felt removal, padding to ear cups and stuffing to inside the cup?
I've had my rx700s for about 2 years now. The ear pads material is starting to starting to flake off, has anyone replace these? If so with what? Does anyone have any ssuggestions what I can do.
depending on how the earpads are installed on them I THINK the DT770 pads or AKG 240 pads would fit.
creative labs WOW pads fit, are very comfy, cost only 15$
I have the same ones and I am using them on another pair of headphones, I can confirm that these are almost marshmallows.
Thanks for the replies guys! I will for a place to order the Wow Pads. Thanks again!
As has been used elsewhere on the site, the sock pad cover mod works very well on the 700's flaking pads.
On the inside, the socks are held in place with 3/8" backer rod cut to the internal circumference under the pad's lip. I've used the backer rod for a long time prior to pad disintegration, it has sounded superior to any other method I've tried, and is very comfortable to boot.
Vraxoin, That's a pic of your Harx700's? Your pads look much fuller than mine..
Do the 'backer rods' have adhesive to keep them and the sock material in place?
Could you explain that process a bit more..?
Anyone done a detachable cable?>
Sure thing! The fullness is actually caused by the backer rod. It's simply stuffed under the inside lip of the pad. There is no adhesive. As long as you cut it to the proper length to fill the inner circumference under the pad it simply stays put for the most part. I have rarely had to readjust it. The sock is cut long enough to be folded under the lip of the pad by an inch or so and the rod just holds it in place. It's really hard to get a good picture of it, but I took a close-up so you might get a better idea. If I had some graphical talent I'd draw it for you, but I'll spare everyone the artistic horror that would be my result.
How do i do the so called felt mod ? it`s just taking off the felt that goes above the speakers ? and what does it makes different ?
It brings out the mids and highs and makes them quite a bit clearer. I've only removed one layer of the felt, and that made a significant difference. Some people have removed all the felt, but try this first. I think it would be fairly reversible versus the full removal, and still give you a rough idea of what the total removal might sound like.
I ended up replacing the cord on mine when one side started malfunctioning near the plug. Bought a new plug at Radioshack (price is more than a bit up there, but only place within ten minutes driving), actually bought the cord at Home Depot (Didn't feel like trying to use the old cord, which was thin enamel coated wires with the outside insulation being twice as thick, got three core braided speaker stuff, two insulated cores with another bare inside). I need to redo it at the headphone end due to messing up the wire strain relief (if it gets pushed/pulled, sound goes out in the left side). Maybe I'll try the window flashing or drawer liner while I'm at it.
I've been very happy with these as my first pair of >$30 headphones, and am considering buying a new pair; I had the phones pop out of the band last summer (bit too much abuse), and I had to duct tape them back in place. I still love these things, though.
I've just bought these headphones, and for about $50 I'm quite impressed with the value for money.
After listening for about 24 hours I've run them through some sine sweeps. Firstly, in the music I found the higher end of the bass is abit peaky resulting in some boominess and too much inferior quality bass in some tracks. Also, the highs on some tracks are a bit too harsh and loud. I also found the fit was a bit painful against my ears after wearing for a long time because the hard plastic under the stock pads would be touching my eartips.
Running through the sine sweep I found some significant peaks around 11khz and around 80-125Hz.
The mods I did address all of these issues:
Firstly we notice 3 holes or "ports" from the baffle area behind the driver (thanks for the picture, hope you don't mind me borrowing it):
I believe these holes act to use phasing to "boost" the bass ie The negative phase bass coming from teh other side of the driver (away from the ear) is pointed back in towards the ear in line with the phasing coming from the front of the driver. This is a typical trick used in a lot of large speaker systems... porting allowing sound pressure to come out of the enclosure. It tends to muddy up the bass for greater power. It can often be worth it in some cases, and if well engineered, can even be used to make speakers more accurate. In this case, I think it appeal to the type of crowd that just like bass, without being true connosiuers.
I sealed these "ports" up with glue tack. This cleaned up the bass significantly. Sine sweeps show more even bass. Tested it on music too, and it was succesful. If you still want a bit of power in your bass, I would suggest sealing up only 2 holes, and leaving one open. This might give best of both worlds.
For the hard plastic rubbing against the ear + the harsh highs, I simply grabbed 2 cotton rolls per earcup. I spread them out evenly (ie joined them together and then thinned them out) behind the foam pads: Between the driver and foam pads. This is another audio trick used to dull down speakers with high peaks in the "highs of the high frequency" (think of speakers with very thick felt covers). The higher the frequency of sound, the more it dulls. Hence, it's perfect for these headphones because they seem to me to peak around 11,000Khz: quite high in the treble range. This trick also helps to soften the plastic rubbing against my ears! Again, I think this was a feature left in place to appeal to less connosiuerial tastes. Bright sharp highs do have an instant appeal, but can get very annoying and wearying if you truly appreciate audio.
I spent a few hours trying diferent combinations. I found putting a reasonable layer of blutack on the baffle around the speakers helped a bit too, but it's already been tried here. This gluetack should help aborb the increased resonance from the increased build up of pressure resulting from sealing the driver baffle/enclosure off completely. This is mostly noticable at high volumes.
Hope it helps you guys!