[onefatsurfer]

OK, so here's where I'm at.  I replaced the makeup applicator foam with Silverstone acoustic foam and replaced the pads with the Shure pads.  Sound quality, particularly treble, is definitely enhanced.  I have a bit of tweaking to do since the left side seems a bit quieter than the right, probably due to uneven amounts of cotton in the cups.  I don't have time to take them apart right now (getting married tomorrow) 

 but the un-evenness isn't too distracting.  I would like to bring the bass level up a bit, and possibly give them a bit more treble too, so I'm going to put a bit of tape over the felt and hopefully doing a better job with sealing the wire entry points will help the bass.  Overall, I'm more than pleased.

 

[kalbee]

This is what you do the day before marriage?!
Congrats man!

The wire entry point will only help the left channel

 

[onefatsurfer]

Thanks kalbee!
Did the tape mod and sealed up the entry point a bit better this morning.  I didn't have any silicone lying around so I used some of the modeling clay, it worked fine.  I'll re-do it with silicone when I have the time.. I'm a bit busy today! Also realized that I had covered the outside port with foam (d'oh!) so I fixed that error.
 
The entire range sounds a bit better, and the treble isn't recessed like it was before.  I'd like to coax a bit more bass out of them, but I'm not complaining.  That'll be a job for after the honeymoon.  I think the thing I'm most impressed with about these headphones is that they're closed, yet they feel and sound more open than my HD558's... The only downside is that after modding, they require more power so I have to use my headphone amp to get the full effect.  I'm listening on my laptop right now and the volume is fine, but everything is maxed and they're at a good listening volume.  Before the mod, I would only need about 2/3 volume.  Not a big deal, except if I use my fiancee's (er, wife's) laptop, since that doesn't put out enough volume to really listen to these.  Just means she won't be using them
 
I'd better take a shower and start getting ready.  If the bride knew I was tinkering with headphones this morning she'd probably smack me! LOL

 

[Nevod]

Well, finished the mod today after 2 weeks w\o headphones.. Not that's a some super-mod, that's just lazy me.
Here's what I've done:
Some plasticine on baffle cup-side, for sealing.
Dynamat in the baffle's 'chambers'.
Bitoplast over dynamat.
Microfiber on driver, with a cross of electric tape on it's center, with 3 needle holes to leak bass through.
Lufa fiber loaf over microfiber.
1 layer of polyfill over whole baffle.
Melamine sponge chunk between dampener spots,right against the driver.
Smaller chunks around it, 4 in each cup.
One more layer of polyfill.
Cup completely coated with bitoplast - left from previous mod.
Baffle port covered with tape punctured with a needle.
 
Dynamat on earside.
Bitoplast over dynamat.
2 layers of bitoplast over rear and lower cup screws to angle the pads.
Beyer gel pads, taped on.
Driver cover removed, only dust protector is left.
Driver covered with bitoplast over inactive surfaces, about 50% coverage.
Ear pads's inner side covered with bitoplast.
Cotton stuffed under earpads to reduce chamber size.
 
The result is not satisfactory. There's clearly too little bass, I had 3.5 bass vents covered, removed the cover, the sound didn't change. Covering the bass ports with  fingers doesn't change the sound at all as well. Hence, I think it's highly overdamped.
Will remove the central chunk of melamine foam or at least cut away the area over central column, as the chunk compresses and probably dampens the whole driver completely. Also will make more holes in the microfiber.
Very extended, fast and detailed, but shrill and not warm at all.
Haven't measured yet though, will have to see the objective truth before applying changes.

 

[Nevod]

Here's the measurement:

Real aural sawtooth.

 

[wje]

Quote:

Well, finished the mod today after 2 weeks w\o headphones.. Not that's a some super-mod, that's just lazy me.
Here's what I've done:
....

 
I'm not sure what bitoplast is, but I'll have to look it up.  Also, there's the melamine.  I do have a piece of it, but have never tried it out, yet.  However, if I could offer a few suggestions, please view them and consider as an option:
 
- Dynamat.  Not always ideal in positive ways, yet adds weight to the headphones.  It's not impossible to remove, but slightly time consuming.  Inside the cup, it doesn't have the benefit.  However, for now, keep the Dynamat in place on the ear side of your baffles as you've already done.
 
- Polyfill.  Most of us have used this material and have determined that it really doesn't add to the modification in a positive manner.  A possible better selection might be to use a small layer of fiberglass insulation and some Rite-Aid "Natural Absorbent" cotton (comes in a roll) on top of the fiberglass, before you put the baffles into place and then screw the baffles down.
 
After performing or using the above two considerations, it would be interesting to see what your results were, or how they changed - hopefully, for the better.

 

[Nevod]

Bitoplast is bitumen-soaked open-cell foam, I've mentioned it here under Biplast name, found recently that wasn't correct name.
 
I don't use dynamat in the cup, it's om the rear side of the baffle, where usually plasticine is.
 
For polyfill, I don't really have choice as I don't want to by 1 m^3 of rockwool. Besides, that's just the analog, and not what is sold under Polyfill brand, and I don't know how similar or different they are. Probably quite similar though.
 
Lastly, I have just stuffed too much in the cups. I had a hard time closing them, and when I have managed to screw the baffles to cups, baffles were so bent that there were gaps on the circumference of the seal, so I have filled the rim with plasticine on the outside. I think, if I just reduce amount of excess material, they would sound good.

 

[t-crisis]

Quote:

Start here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/571549/fostex-t50rp-modification-summary-links/75#post_8559661
 
Most people I believe are using the Rasta Pants 2 mod, but there are others.  Check here: http://www.innerfidelity.com/headphone-data-sheet-downloads for the charts for some of the mods people have done.
 
I personally use a pa2v2 amp with a LOD for my iPad (which also works well with Grados), but I'm sure someone can suggest an amp/dac with better synergy than this setup.

So as I read on, I saw that RP2 are only recommended by mrspeakers with use of the 02 pads, which I really think are ridiculously overpriced. Although I haven't heard them. Anyway, with stock pads or 840 pads, would you recommend sticking with RP or going with BMF?

You see I have no idea how to read those performance charts. No idea what is generally considered good or bad

 

[geetarman49]

Quote:

So as I read on, I saw that RP2 are only recommended by mrspeakers with use of the 02 pads, which I really think are ridiculously overpriced. Although I haven't heard them. Anyway, with stock pads or 840 pads, would you recommend sticking with RP or going with BMF?

You see I have no idea how to read those performance charts. No idea what is generally considered good or bad

i recommend BMF with latest Dmitry mod ... but then again, i'm biased

  ... usually at 12v, but sometimes 6 will do.

 

[t-crisis]

Quote:

i recommend BMF with latest Dmitry mod ... but then again, i'm biased

  ... usually at 12v, but sometimes 6 will do.

 
I actually did start doing the BMF mod, but couldn't get my hands on some transpore tape today. Will get tomorrow. And where in the world do you get paxmate? Is dynamat a good replacement?

 

[kalbee]

Quote:

 
I actually did start doing the BMF mod, but couldn't get my hands on some transpore tape today. Will get tomorrow. And where in the world do you get paxmate? Is dynamat a good replacement?

Different things.
Paxmate is often replaced by Silverstone acoustic foam... or however they are called by different sellers.
 
Not sure on how different the damping effects are.

 

[graphidz]

So I have some unused speaker wires and I was thinking of using it for my T50RP. Though this wire have 7 cores thus I'm not sure how to do it. Heck, and I'm not even sure if using a speaker wire is even possible. I want to use it because it 's pure silver if 99.99999(I think).

I could extract only the required cores,but that will be a hassle
The cable I'm talking about is monitor cobra cable silver 4.00 qmm

 

[geetarman49]

Quote:

... And where in the world do you get paxmate? Is dynamat a good replacement?

paxmate can be sourced from sidewindercomputers.com or performance-pcs.com.  for $17+ shipping, you'll probably wind up with enough to do 100 headphones.  
 
i think it has been agreed that dynamat is not mandatory for the latest dmitry-edition.

 

[micmacmo]

Quote:

So I have some unused speaker wires and I was thinking of using it for my T50RP. Though this wire have 7 cores thus I'm not sure how to do it. Heck, and I'm not even sure if using a speaker wire is even possible. I want to use it because it 's pure silver if 99.99999(I think).
I could extract only the required cores,but that will be a hassle
The cable I'm talking about is monitor cobra cable silver 4.00 qmm

 
I think must folks use 26AWG or higher to recable their headphones and most speaker cable is too big and heavy for the job. Why not visit the DIY Discussion forum and ask your question in the DIY Cable Gallery thread? Good luck!

 

[graphidz]

Quote:

 
I think must folks use 26AWG or higher to recable their headphones and most speaker cable is too big and heavy for the job. Why not visit the DIY Discussion forum and ask your question in the DIY Cable Gallery thread? Good luck!

 
The thing is, that wire is very light, and even kinda soft too, even though the insulator is made of rubber(I think)
 
I thought about asking there, but to be specifically used with T50RP, that's why I asked here. I'll try asking there