[wje]

Quote:

Thanks for the advice guys... Do you have the stiff felt totally covering the inside of the driver Kneeljung or just certain squares ? I am planning on recabling with silver soon from Chris which I feel will brighten things up as well and also add to the already great detail.
 
Darren

 
Darren,
 
In my case, I have not touched the rear of the driver at all with the heavy felt.  Others may have.  Also, I'm not even sure if you have to go to the level of silver cable.  I'm using the Mogami Neglex quad microphone cable, with very good results.
 
 

 

[dgcrane]

Yeah, it just kinda worked out with the silver cable... Chris and I have a different deal going and I will have an extra set of silver cables... so instead of them just sitting here, I may as well install em
 
Darren
 
Quote:

 
Darren,
 
In my case, I have not touched the rear of the driver at all with the heavy felt.  Others may have.  Also, I'm not even sure if you have to go to the level of silver cable.  I'm using the Mogami Neglex quad microphone cable, with very good results.
 
 

 

 

[Maxtcc]

 
Quote:

 
Thanks for doing this test.  I will be chopping the Fostex connector off my old T50RP cable and attaching it to my Mogami/Furutech cable in a few days thanks to this.
 
I might do before and after tests for resistance as well, also with a high quality calibrated fluke desktop DMM.
 
Were you using 4-wire or 2-wire method?

Well I guess you could call it 4-wire equivalent,
being ware of, and due to the low range of resistance I expected to find I defined the resistance of the test leads,
( through testing I have marked each of my test leads for resistance)
I used this value and subtracted them from the meter readings (we are talking 0.092 Ohms for the pair I used)
and rounded the result to the nearest tenth Ohm. 
For thoroughness I also had degreased, cleansed then dried all points of contacts to be used.
I then retested with a second meter and set of leads . The variation in each result was on the order of 0.01 percent between the set of tests.
(Yes I know kind of OCD, but I was trying to get the most exact measurement possible with the equipment that I have)
 
Does anyone care to have the measurements for the V-moda, now?  :}
 
I know I will be interested in the values you find with taking out the stock socket.
I am planning on modding my t50's with balanced cables and will be planning on using Neutrik mini sockets at the cups
so your values will be useful.

 

[KneelJung]

Quote:

Thanks for the advice guys... Do you have the stiff felt totally covering the inside of the driver Kneeljung or just certain squares ? I am planning on recabling with silver soon from Chris which I feel will brighten things up as well and also add to the already great detail.
 
Darren

I had the entire square covered with the felt, that's not how they are currently configured though. I've also had some tweed like material over them, some corduroy like material, and some other stuff. I just removed the stock paper covering from the driver, and the tweed like stuff didnt sound the same as it did in conjunction with the stock covering. The corduroy stuff that I didnt like in conjunction with the stock paper sounded pretty good with the stock stuff removed, very detailed but was lacking bass. I have some sort of silk or rayon on there now and I like it, but it needs some tweaking. I have a V-moda cable on the way, which is going to lead to some more tinkering too probably.

 

[mrspeakers]

Quote:

Does anyone find the T50rp's fatiguing? Is is because the shure srh840 pads are touching my ears?

Lift the rear of the pads with some closed cell foam (though some prefer rolled cotton).  The 840 pad should be circumaural and not touch the ears, but it's possible the driver baffle pressed on the ears if the pad doesn't have a bit of lift to the rear (I had a bit of this issue, but not enough to be a bummer).

 

[headphonatic]

Sorry wrong post, move along.

 

[dgcrane]

You know, I have been working with what i got to mod these things.... And I attempted last night something I read on one of the 437 pages of posts

I cut a thin 1/8" slice (approx) of a "magic eraser" and put it in the backside of the cup. Replacing the cotton batting that I had in. It brought the highs and mids out and these cans are totally listenable now . I still plan to install paxmate and shure pads when they arrive, but I am actually liking the sound of these now quite a bit.

Darren

 

[wdahm519]

Quote:

 


Well I guess you could call it 4-wire equivalent,
being ware of, and due to the low range of resistance I expected to find I defined the resistance of the test leads,
( through testing I have marked each of my test leads for resistance)
I used this value and subtracted them from the meter readings (we are talking 0.092 Ohms for the pair I used)
and rounded the result to the nearest tenth Ohm. 
For thoroughness I also had degreased, cleansed then dried all points of contacts to be used.
I then retested with a second meter and set of leads . The variation in each result was on the order of 0.01 percent between the set of tests.
(Yes I know kind of OCD, but I was trying to get the most exact measurement possible with the equipment that I have)
 
Does anyone care to have the measurements for the V-moda, now?  :}
 
I know I will be interested in the values you find with taking out the stock socket.
I am planning on modding my t50's with balanced cables and will be planning on using Neutrik mini sockets at the cups
so your values will be useful.

Hmm... well, I'll try and test a stock cable and my mogami/furutech cable to see if there are differences later in the week.  I'll use the 4-wire method and I will be using Deoxit to clean the contact surface before each test.  We'll see what I get.  
 
Oh, also I will probably decide to keep everything to the nearest thousandth of an ohm and post averages and standard deviations.
 

 

[iowercase]

This is gonna sound pretty elementary, but...
 
I was scraping out some plasticine from the baffles to match the "less is more" approach in the BMF 6.X versions, which by itself didn't do so much except, honestly, give more space for waves to reverberate around in so the mids got much soupier.  I figured since I gave more space in the cups, why not take it back up by slapping a second layer of silverstone down in the cup backs.  Pretty revolutionary idea if I say so myself. 
 
It worked out really nicely and actually killed much of the fatiguing upper mid/lower treble peakiness I've been grousing about!  So my genius recommendation to anyone out there would be: if you like what one layer of silverstone did to the sound, try two layers and see if that doesn't take you even further in the right direction.  I'd thought before that the reduction in cup volume would outweigh any extra absorption a second layer would provide, but uh... maybe not.

 

[fishski13]

Quote:

RE: Pars's question on post 46870
 
 
just for comparisons sake 
a new Fostex cable unused from a new pair of t50 rp has the following resistances:
 
at tip 1.6 Ohm
at midpoint 1.5 Ohm
at collar 1.6 Ohm
 
these measurements were taken with a recently calibrated Fluke 177 multimeter
 
Hmmm
quite high for the cable length,, I am glad I went straight to the Vmoda.
 
Well I had best test that next. 

yup.  with my Fluke 179:
 
T= 1.8
R=1.7
S=1.7
 
i just ordered the VMODA cable in harlot red.
 
 

 

[everlong]

I need a lowcost amp/dac to my t50rp, and been looking on O2 and C&C BH. Would they botgh pair good with t50rp?
 

 

[dgcrane]

I LOVE the o2 and seems to match well with my t50rp from my limited time with them.

Darren

 

[kalbee]

Quote:

This is gonna sound pretty elementary, but...
 
I was scraping out some plasticine from the baffles to match the "less is more" approach in the BMF 6.X versions, which by itself didn't do so much except, honestly, give more space for waves to reverberate around in so the mids got much soupier.  I figured since I gave more space in the cups, why not take it back up by slapping a second layer of silverstone down in the cup backs.  Pretty revolutionary idea if I say so myself. 
 
It worked out really nicely and actually killed much of the fatiguing upper mid/lower treble peakiness I've been grousing about!  So my genius recommendation to anyone out there would be: if you like what one layer of silverstone did to the sound, try two layers and see if that doesn't take you even further in the right direction.  I'd thought before that the reduction in cup volume would outweigh any extra absorption a second layer would provide, but uh... maybe not.

Doubling the thickness of absorptive material is always a good method to increase the absorption factor. Though I am curious as how well these would work since the second layer also has the film of glue underneath it... or did you scrape part of it off?
 

 

[wje]

Quote:

I LOVE the o2 and seems to match well with my t50rp from my limited time with them.

Darren

Yes, the O2 does power them quite well.  I also have the HifiMAN EF-2A (hybrid) amp / DAC and it does a lovely job with using my iPods with LOD cables as inputs.  Excellent sound!  In fact, I don't know where I'd head to improve the sound any more at this point in time.  Also, Darren, be prepared with a HUGE wave in sound improvement once your Shure 840 pads arrive.  I thought the stock pads were OK and kept applying the various modifications.  However, once the Shure pads were installed, I knew I was home.  Yeah, baby !!
 

 

[mrspeakers]

Quote:

Doubling the thickness of absorptive material is always a good method to increase the absorption factor. Though I am curious as how well these would work since the second layer also has the film of glue underneath it... or did you scrape part of it off?
 

Exactly.  In the case of paxmate, the backing has the adhesive on it and won't let air pass, so the underlying material is not actually doing it's thing to absorb much energy (except lower frequencies).  It might have solved the peakiness someone reported, but it's not really because it's like doubling the thickness of the foam, it may have more to do with the shape and volume of the resulting enclosure...