Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW!
Mar 10, 2012 at 12:23 PM Post #6,886 of 11,345
quantum entanglement is a legitimate technology to employ in the pursuit of aural truthiness
wink_face.gif
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Mar 10, 2012 at 4:27 PM Post #6,890 of 11,345
I have a general question for us newbies trying to make sense of all the different modifications...

Has anyone likened the sound of the most popular mods (RastaPants, BMF, etc) to that of commercially available headphones?

For instance: "The ____ mod sounds like a Sennheiser _____ but with slightly more _____"
 
Mar 10, 2012 at 7:52 PM Post #6,891 of 11,345
Hello, I am looking for some advice...
 
I have started the modding procedures but I am still waiting for some stuff (paxmate and shure pads). So  far, I have installed plasticine, removed the front ear felt, installed a reflex dot and put cotton batting in the cups. I am definately noticing a lack of mids and highs at this stage. Can I expect the mids, highs to get better with the installation of paxmate and the pads ? I hope so..... or if you have any other suggestions that may bring them out more, it would be appreciated.
 
I am coming from Magnums, so maybe I am expecting too much for the brightness ?
 
Thanks
Darren
 
Mar 10, 2012 at 7:57 PM Post #6,892 of 11,345


Quote:
I don't know anything about audiophile use of the cone legs you're talking about, but I would suspect people use them because they essentially have a point contact. Imagine how much pressure is on tip of the cone. I could see a vibration being created or "amplified" much more easily with a 1-inch diameter hard rubber disc (creating a slight air gap repeatedly, like a slapping motion) than with a metal cone. Elastic vs. inelastic collisions and all that noise.


 
Negatory.  Much of physics its intuitive, other parts of it like vibrations is not.  The cones make you think less vibrations will be transmitted, and therefore they sell well.  I use them on things like DIY amplifiers because they look cool, but that's just about it!
 
Mar 10, 2012 at 7:58 PM Post #6,893 of 11,345
RE: Pars's question on post 46870
 
 
just for comparisons sake 
a new Fostex cable unused from a new pair of t50 rp has the following resistances:
 
at tip 1.6 Ohm
at midpoint 1.5 Ohm
at collar 1.6 Ohm
 
these measurements were taken with a recently calibrated Fluke 177 multimeter
 
Hmmm
quite high for the cable length,, I am glad I went straight to the Vmoda.
 
Well I had best test that next. 
 
Mar 10, 2012 at 8:12 PM Post #6,894 of 11,345


Quote:
RE: Pars's question on post 46870
 
 
just for comparisons sake 
a new Fostex cable unused from a new pair of t50 rp has the following resistances:
 
at tip 1.6 Ohm
at midpoint 1.5 Ohm
at collar 1.6 Ohm
 
these measurements were taken with a recently calibrated Fluke 177 multimeter
 
Hmmm
quite high for the cable length,, I am glad I went straight to the Vmoda.
 
Well I had best test that next. 

 
Thanks for doing this test.  I will be chopping the Fostex connector off my old T50RP cable and attaching it to my Mogami/Furutech cable in a few days thanks to this.
 
I might do before and after tests for resistance as well, also with a high quality calibrated fluke desktop DMM.
 
Were you using 4-wire or 2-wire method?
 
Mar 10, 2012 at 8:42 PM Post #6,896 of 11,345


Quote:
Hello, I am looking for some advice...
 
I have started the modding procedures but I am still waiting for some stuff (paxmate and shure pads). So  far, I have installed plasticine, removed the front ear felt, installed a reflex dot and put cotton batting in the cups. I am definately noticing a lack of mids and highs at this stage. Can I expect the mids, highs to get better with the installation of paxmate and the pads ? I hope so..... or if you have any other suggestions that may bring them out more, it would be appreciated.
 
I am coming from Magnums, so maybe I am expecting too much for the brightness ?
 
Thanks
Darren


Hi Darren how's it going?
 
When I first got mine and was listening to them unmodded they sounded a lot darker than what I was used to with my Grado's and  they seemed congested too. I finally got them to the point that they didnt seem as dark and congested, but they were very mid forward and spikey at times. That was how they were modded when I loaned them to Questhate who forwarded them to Tyll to measure. When I got them back I removed the felt around the driver on the earside of the baffle like you've done, but surrounded the exposed driver with some paxmate, which smoothed things out quite a bit. The Shure 840 pads you have coming will make a big difference too, and so will the paxmate. In the meantime one of the things you might want to try is a square of stiff craft felt over the driver on the inside of the cup. Seems to brighten things up so they dont sound as dark. The back of my cup is also lined with stiff craft felt with paxmate over that. I'm not sure why because I had them sounding pretty good, but I started tinkering again, messed up the paper covering on the driver, and now trying to figure things out again.
 
beerchug.gif

 
Enjoy!
 
Mar 10, 2012 at 8:47 PM Post #6,897 of 11,345
 
Negatory.  Much of physics its intuitive, other parts of it like vibrations is not.  The cones make you think less vibrations will be transmitted, and therefore they sell well.  I use them on things like DIY amplifiers because they look cool, but that's just about it!


I think what he is saying is NOT about having less vibration transmitted, which by physics would be false. To my understanding, using smaller contact point supports is not to reduce vibration but to allow more vibration to the speaker unit itself. It's just to have bigger lengths of unsupported length than the equivalent with larger surface contacts. What having more vibration to the speaker unit itself does... beats me :p
 
Mar 10, 2012 at 8:48 PM Post #6,898 of 11,345


Quote:
Hello, I am looking for some advice...
 
I have started the modding procedures but I am still waiting for some stuff (paxmate and shure pads). So  far, I have installed plasticine, removed the front ear felt, installed a reflex dot and put cotton batting in the cups. I am definately noticing a lack of mids and highs at this stage. Can I expect the mids, highs to get better with the installation of paxmate and the pads ? I hope so..... or if you have any other suggestions that may bring them out more, it would be appreciated.
 
I am coming from Magnums, so maybe I am expecting too much for the brightness ?
 
Thanks
Darren


Darren,
 
I think you're on the right track.  I have my most recent pair that was assembled on Thursday in action right now.  I've logged about 8-9 hours of burn in time and approximately 4 hours of actual use / listening time.  I'm on par with the mids and highs where I am VERY happy right now with these headphones.  
 
Here's what I've done:
 
  1. Left one bass vent open
  2. Removed the felt front the drivers on the ear side of the baffles
  3. Installed Dynamat and then Silver Stone (Pax Mate Like) material over the Dynamat on the flat area of the cups.  I left the rounded parts of the plastic cups exposed
  4. Installed a thin layer of insulation (that yellow stuff that insulates houses and makes you itch)
  5. Plastix on the baffle around the square of the driver, but didn't overdo its use
  6. Recabled my phones and used a 1/4" Neutrik connector.  My wires connect to approximately 1.5 inches of existing factory wire that remains soldered to the driver solder dots.
 
 
What I did not do:
 
  1. I did not touch the white filter on the rear of the driver
  2. I did not use any teased cotton balls in this latest revision
  3. I did not use a reflex dot
 
My mids and highs (and the bass, too) is just lovely.  If we thought the Magnums were something special for the money, these Fostex 'phones are truly the answer for the poor man's audiophile gem.
 
Peace.
 
Oh, one more thing.  I'm driving mine with my iPod Touch 4 through the HifiMAN EF-2A hybrid amp.  The sound is just delicious.
 
 
Mar 10, 2012 at 9:01 PM Post #6,899 of 11,345
Thanks for the advice guys... Do you have the stiff felt totally covering the inside of the driver Kneeljung or just certain squares ? I am planning on recabling with silver soon from Chris which I feel will brighten things up as well and also add to the already great detail.
 
Darren
 

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