[wje]

Quote:

By the way the Magnums and Fostex t50rp both have to be the best bang for the buck in hi end headphone audio.
Having said that, it's not because of the price that I like them so much.  I just love the sound signature of both.  Both have great mids for rock (guitar) and vocals.

So true, your statement is.  Then again, I tend to avoid having a taste of what I can't afford.  If I were to try out the Sennheiser HD-800 and then decide I liked them, what would I do?  That's a lot of $ to slap down on one pair of 'phones.  So, I tend to stay and play in the sandbox that I can afford.  Things seem to go better, financially ... and, musically, for me.  

 
From the members here and reading the Fostex threads, I've received some great tips on the 1 to 10 steps to follow as they are the "proven" steps that one has taken to get the most bang for the buck out of the Fostex 'phones.  However, if I were to desire a slight more "sizzle" in my upper frequencies with the Fostex, what's the best approach?  Is placing a piece of foil on the back, center square of the Tic-Tac-Toe driver back the best way to go?  Or, should I consider something else to apply?  At 48, my ears tend to desire a bit more upper frequencies either because of some hearing decay or limitations in the frequencies that I can hear.  That's why the Grado - and, then the Magnum has appealed to me.  Bear in mind, the Magnum has provided some of the best balanced sound that my ears have heard in a headphone.  But, I suspect the mids and lows in the Fostex will still be slightly predominant - in part due to their design and what I can hear even before the modifications start.  So, I'm essentially asking the best best approach to "tip" the upper frequencies a bit.  Any ideas on the best move to make?
 
Thanks,

 

[sling5s]

Most have recommended using the reflex dot (flat rubber feet for furniture items) on the back of drivers.  You could try using increasing numbers to suit your taste for treble. 
 
Quote:

So true, your statement is.  Then again, I tend to avoid having a taste of what I can't afford.  If I were to try out the Sennheiser HD-800 and then decide I liked them, what would I do?  That's a lot of $ to slap down on one pair of 'phones.  So, I tend to stay and play in the sandbox that I can afford.  Things seem to go better, financially ... and, musically, for me.  

 
From the members here and reading the Fostex threads, I've received some great tips on the 1 to 10 steps to follow as they are the "proven" steps that one has taken to get the most bang for the buck out of the Fostex 'phones.  However, if I were to desire a slight more "sizzle" in my upper frequencies with the Fostex, what's the best approach?  Is placing a piece of foil on the back, center square of the Tic-Tac-Toe driver back the best way to go?  Or, should I consider something else to apply?  At 48, my ears tend to desire a bit more upper frequencies either because of some hearing decay or limitations in the frequencies that I can hear.  That's why the Grado - and, then the Magnum has appealed to me.  Bear in mind, the Magnum has provided some of the best balanced sound that my ears have heard in a headphone.  But, I suspect the mids and lows in the Fostex will still be slightly predominant - in part due to their design and what I can hear even before the modifications start.  So, I'm essentially asking the best best approach to "tip" the upper frequencies a bit.  Any ideas on the best move to make?
 
Thanks,

 

 

[Twinster]

I've covered the middle square (a bit bigger then the square) with a layer of electrical tape and it seem to bring the hi to an acceptable level. I also put some Dynamat on the central post just behind the driver and let it expose (no Paxmate) Be cautious cause more you cover less bass you will get. You can also add some padding under the earpads to increase the distance of the driver to your ears. Similar to the various Grado pads it will reduce the bass a bit and accentuate the hi & mid. It will also increase the soundstage.
 
(I see you already having fun Wayne 

)
 
Quote:

So true, your statement is.  Then again, I tend to avoid having a taste of what I can't afford.  If I were to try out the Sennheiser HD-800 and then decide I liked them, what would I do?  That's a lot of $ to slap down on one pair of 'phones.  So, I tend to stay and play in the sandbox that I can afford.  Things seem to go better, financially ... and, musically, for me.  

 
From the members here and reading the Fostex threads, I've received some great tips on the 1 to 10 steps to follow as they are the "proven" steps that one has taken to get the most bang for the buck out of the Fostex 'phones.  However, if I were to desire a slight more "sizzle" in my upper frequencies with the Fostex, what's the best approach?  Is placing a piece of foil on the back, center square of the Tic-Tac-Toe driver back the best way to go?  Or, should I consider something else to apply?  At 48, my ears tend to desire a bit more upper frequencies either because of some hearing decay or limitations in the frequencies that I can hear.  That's why the Grado - and, then the Magnum has appealed to me.  Bear in mind, the Magnum has provided some of the best balanced sound that my ears have heard in a headphone.  But, I suspect the mids and lows in the Fostex will still be slightly predominant - in part due to their design and what I can hear even before the modifications start.  So, I'm essentially asking the best best approach to "tip" the upper frequencies a bit.  Any ideas on the best move to make?
 
Thanks,

 

 

[wje]

Quote:

Most have recommended using the reflex dot (flat rubber feet for furniture items) on the back of drivers.  You could try using increasing numbers to suit your taste for treble. 
 

 
Thanks.  Appreciate it.  I believe I'm already to go.  I've heard from a member that removing the 9 squares of white filter has been done - some like the effect, some don't.  I guess it's just personal preference.
 
I have some rubber dots.  I'll try a few.  I'll update the thread with my results.  I did get through running a new Canare "Y" cable to the Left and Right cups.  Out with the old, in with the new ...
 
Off Topic: I did find some 1/4" (inner diameter) 3/4" (outer diameter) black knobs with a brushed silver insert at Radio Shack today for my O2 amp.  They feature a set screw and only run about $2.49 - $2.99 for a pack of 4 of them.  I'll get some pics posted in the O2 thread when I have some sunlight to take a good picture.

 

[wje]

Quote:

Darn, they don't have that headphone or part on the US site.
 

We could all sign a petition and send it to Sennheiser.  They might go for stocking them here in the U.S. ... until they find out we want the $5.00 pads for the Fostex 'phones.  Then, the party will be over.
 
 

 

[kalbee]

Out of curiosity--hows the effectiveness of Paxmate versus Paxmate Plus?
Most of  the mods I've seen here utilize the latter. Wondering if I can make do with the regular ones or would I require extra layers, etc.
 
Can't wait to get started on my T50RP

so much it's keeping me from doing my homework lol.

 

[pyrokid]

I'm trying to get these to sound Grado-ey if possible.... But I'm having trouble bringing the mids forward. Any tips? Cotton makes it sound weird and congested IMO... Or maybe just like there's a slight veil... But without the cotton it sounds like it's slightly distant.

 

[mmayer167]

Yep. too much cotton packed in there really makes them sound weird. All you need is a few whispeys if you go the cotton route. I would look into putting some of the filler matrix from the thicker cardboard behind the driver with maybe something like a dryer sheet in the mix just laying in front or behind the cardboard matrix. The idea was presented a few pages back with a sliced up straw stacked side by side i believe. I have not tried this but think the idea behind it is really worth messing with. I wish LFF would make the Paradox secret public because they are so dam good. 
 
-M
 
edit: dont forget about the front of the driver. Try different materials and pads just as ferociously as you mess with the inside material. 

 

[mrspeakers]

Quote:

steelle
 
search the forum for my post with pictures on how to remove the stock white driver dampener in one piece. You can save it and glue it back on later, if you want to go back to stock.  Basically, use many small dabs of acetone to loosen the adhesive and use a sharp x-acto chisel blade to separate the dampener from the grid. 
 
good luck
 

Oh, I forgot about this tip, thanks.  I'll have to try it on a set.
 
I'm in heaven right now listening to Fleetwood Mac's awesome 24/96 "Fleetwood Mac" album.  Holy smokes, what a great job they did on this remaster.  
 
Oh, and I have a very simple tweak to the RP2 O2.  Full post will be later this week, but I nailed a very smooth frequency response, no major dips or peaks on a smooth tilt down to the right.  +/- 6db from 18-20KHz, and even better bass tightness.  Lotsa goodness here, and totally worth the effort to upgrade, and no harder to do from scratch.  For a tease, here's the time domain response...
 

 
This is cleaner than the LCD-2 throughout the spectrum.  At least on my test setup, the LCD-2 has a marked HF resonance, something others have measured as well.  
 
I'm REALLY loving these. I mean, they are SICK.  
 
 

 

[mrspeakers]

Quote:

Most have recommended using the reflex dot (flat rubber feet for furniture items) on the back of drivers.  You could try using increasing numbers to suit your taste for treble. 
 

Oddly enough, in my configuration the reflex dot did bump the highs a bit, but at the expense of creating a bit of a suck-out at 4KHz.  In my upcoming posts is removing the dot to flatten out the mids and highs and get rid of a few resonances.  This is one of the minor mods that I both clearly heard and measured.  Mids are now more filled out and utterly fabulous.
 
While a dot may work for some, I felt that removing it really was a plus in all regards.   
 
This will not be the case for all designs, certainly other designs will need this to balance out, but at least in my configuration, while it may have been a value-add in my design at one point, but now, like an appendix, it's time for it to go.

 

[wje]

I recall in  Twinster's comments that he sent to me last week when I ordered my pair of Fostex, he indicated, he had used some cotton pads that he stole from his wife's makeup collection - or, at least, that's what I've purchased for my mods.  The drug stores usually carry packages of the cotton devices which tend to be flattened cotton pads, circular in nature and usually sewn around the edges.  It seems that using such pads would allow you to slightly adhere them to the cup area over the Plax material as opposed to just stuffing loose cotton in the cups, which could move around and eventually bond to the the plastix that's applied to your driver baffle.
 
Again, though, this is just one tip out of many for this solution.  However, it seems relatively straight-forward and one could start of with 2 or 3 circular pads and then add or remove the amount from that point, as needed.
 
 

 

[b0wl1ng]

Thanks Ardilla, 
 

I have just ordered one, just the ticket.
Quote:

 
Headband mod: Self adhesive padding-strip:

 

 

Sennheiser spare parts: Headband padding HD215 - 514024

http://spares.sennheiser.co.uk/pro-audio-headphones/hd-215-ii/headband-padding-hd215.html
 
 

 

 

[symphonic]

Can someone tell me - do the FA-003 pads have memory foam, or regular foam inside? 
 
I noticed that the new Philips L1 Fidelio has nice looking memory foam pads that might be a good match for the Fostex, if they start being sold as replacement parts.

 

[hans030390]

Quote:

Oh, I forgot about this tip, thanks.  I'll have to try it on a set.
 
I'm in heaven right now listening to Fleetwood Mac's awesome 24/96 "Fleetwood Mac" album.  Holy smokes, what a great job they did on this remaster.  
 
Oh, and I have a very simple tweak to the RP2 O2.  Full post will be later this week, but I nailed a very smooth frequency response, no major dips or peaks on a smooth tilt down to the right.  +/- 6db from 18-20KHz, and even better bass tightness.  Lotsa goodness here, and totally worth the effort to upgrade, and no harder to do from scratch.  For a tease, here's the time domain response...
 

 
This is cleaner than the LCD-2 throughout the spectrum.  At least on my test setup, the LCD-2 has a marked HF resonance, something others have measured as well.  
 
I'm REALLY loving these. I mean, they are SICK.  
 
 

Looking good! Can't wait to see what you've done with them. 
 

 

[BGRoberts]

Quote:

Quote:
 
Unless you've personally talked to Smeggy about his thoughts on the matter, I think you're being unnecessarily adamant about this being some horrible thing this guy has done. 

 
I agree with this statement.
I purchased a pair of modded T50's from this guy a few months ago, some of his early work prior to the Cedarpants.
I was pretty pleased with the work, and the price was fair in my mind.
I'll bet the Cedarpants are even better, as he's had time to refine his work.  They're tempting.
If Smeggy has no complaints about this, we should not either.
My 2 cents worth.