[hans030390]

Did anyone ever answer how exactly they stuff the cups with cotton balls? That is, do you fill up the space around the center post in the cups (not covering it), or do you cover that center post as well?

 

[Arleus]

I personally fluffed it up into a sort of sheet, then stuffed it in the cup, covering the centre post too. I assumed that post wasn't there for anything other than holding the hinge for the cup... but I'm hardly the most seasoned modder, so hopefully someone else will chime in too.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

BMF 6v3: Less Is More?

 

I think Fostex purposely put the partitions and odd compartment shapes on the back of the baffles as an important part of the acoustic design. If so, filling them with plasticine may not be the best approach when modding.

 

This configuration was tuned with Audeze LCD2 as the reference. The sound signature is the same. The SQ is very close but the LCD2 with 5 times the driver size, 10 times the cost, and open design wins every time, IMO. That said, these sound really good to me for < $100.

 

1. BMF Tungsten Putty surrounding the driver on the back side of the baffle.

2. Back baffle panels and compartments unobstructed and unfilled.

3. Paxmate Plus in the interior cup floor, only.

4. Central chamber for headband hanger screw uncovered.

5. Stock white driver felt intact and in place. Reflex dot, tape, or felt tuning is optional.

6. Stock black bass port felt intact and in place. Bass port tuning is optional.

7. Dust cover chiseled off around the ear side of the driver; dust cover in place over driver.

8. One layer of Dynamat surrounding the ear side of the driver.

9. One layer of self-adhesive felt over the Dynamat.

10.Shure 840 pads.

 

 

My tungsten putty recipe surrounds the drivers. The baffle panels and compartments are unobstructed. White specks: residue left over after removing white plasticine from a previous mod. Paxmate Plus in the cup floor, only. Stock black bass port felt and white driver felt intact. Plasticine in the outer cup rim from a previous mod.

 

 

 

 

After chiseling off the dust cover, I cut and placed 4 pieces of Dynamat surrounding the driver. The dust cover is in place over the driver. Cardboard template for cutting out the felt cover in the next photo.

 

 

 

 

Self-adhesive felt over Dynamat to seal the goo and lift the ear pads. Notch cut for baffle equalization vent. Additional ear pad lifting with gauze is optional.

 

 

 

 

One large cotton ball pulled apart and placed in the cup over the Paxmate. This gives a different sound but not necessarily better than "empty."

 

 

 

 

Shure 840 pads. Additional pad lifting with gauze, etc., optional. They look better than stock but I think stock pads with rear lifters sound just as good and are just as comfortable.
 

 

[Armaegis]

Less is more. Less is more. I keep saying that

 

[hans030390]

Tried using electrical tape over one section of the driver "grid". With that, 6 cotton balls per cup, vents left open (with stock felt in place), Silverstone foam on ear side baffle and lining cups, Plasticine in the back of the driver baffles, and the 840 pads, these are actually sounding pretty great. I just wish they had more sub-bass. They certainly extend deep, but the bass rolls off earlier than I'd like.
 
I'm also having an issue where the right driver will buzz/sound distorted in specific parts of some songs. I don't get this with other headphones...

 

[drexman]

BMF 6v3 sound better than previous BMF  versions?
 

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Yes. I tuned 6v3 to my LCD2's and compared 6v3 to the other two modded sets I have on hand. One has 1.5 layers of Transpore, medium mass loading with plasticine, Paxmate Plus in the cup floor and walls, ear pad lifters, and the rest is stock; the other is BMF 6v2 with AcoustiPack Lite and then switched out with Paxmate Plus in the cup floor, only.  BTW, I prefer the softer/warmer sound of Paxmate over the more neutral AcoustiPack Lite, at least some of the time and with some tunes.  6v3 is the closest I've come to the LCD2 SQ.
 
Quote:

BMF 6v3 sound better than previous BMF  versions?
 

 

 

[dogears]

This! I'm running the Silver Pawstex with all stock
 
Quote:

BMF 6v3: Less Is More?

 
Shure 840 pads. Additional pad lifting with gauze, etc., optional. They look better than stock but I think stock pads with rear lifters sound just as good and are just as comfortable.  

 

 

[HDMan]

update:
 
remove cotton balls from cups, replaced with cotton sheet, i thick sheet per cup, much better cotton volume per cup measurement, balanced the sound out much better.
 
raised the pads at the back with polystyrene foam strips, light and sturdy.
 
drivers bare, but with the cloth from the 840 pads over the front of the driver (earside)
 
conclusion:
 
tamed mid reflection, good soundstage, balanced sound.

 

[HDMan]

Quote:

Tried using electrical tape over one section of the driver "grid". With that, 6 cotton balls per cup, vents left open (with stock felt in place), Silverstone foam on ear side baffle and lining cups, Plasticine in the back of the driver baffles, and the 840 pads, these are actually sounding pretty great. I just wish they had more sub-bass. They certainly extend deep, but the bass rolls off earlier than I'd like.
 
I'm also having an issue where the right driver will buzz/sound distorted in specific parts of some songs. I don't get this with other headphones...

You need to cover the vents except for one stripe to get increased sub bass. Remove the white felt off the driver and the front driver material aswell, opens up the details.

 

[proid]

Quote:

Yes. I tuned 6v3 to my LCD2's and compared 6v3 to the other two modded sets I have on hand. One has 1.5 layers of Transpore, medium mass loading with plasticine, Paxmate Plus in the cup floor and walls, ear pad lifters, and the rest is stock; the other is BMF 6v2 with AcoustiPack Lite and then switched out with Paxmate Plus in the cup floor, only.  BTW, I prefer the softer/warmer sound of Paxmate over the more neutral AcoustiPack Lite, at least some of the time and with some tunes.  6v3 is the closest I've come to the LCD2 SQ.
 


 

Can i use plasticine instead of tungsen putty and get the same result?

 

[200poundsofamp]

Quote:

You need to cover the vents except for one stripe to get increased sub bass. Remove the white felt off the driver and the front driver material aswell, opens up the details.

Shouldn't you cut a hole in the 840 covers then? They fabric's even thicker - wouldn't that "opens up the details" even more?

 

[hans030390]

Quote:

You need to cover the vents except for one stripe to get increased sub bass. Remove the white felt off the driver and the front driver material aswell, opens up the details.

Details are fine as is. Doesn't covering the vents usually kill off the bass? I'll try it anyway...it's not like it takes more than a minute.

 

[200poundsofamp]

Quote:

Quote:

Details are fine as is. Doesn't covering the vents usually kill off the bass? I'll try it anyway...it's not like it takes more than a minute.

That's been my experience... worth a shot though.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

It's hard to say.  Different ears x equipment x modding materials x preferences...  You'll have to try it and see what you think.  
 
You could try it first like 6v3 and listen to a variety of favorite tunes for a while...then add more plasticine to medium mass damp all the way from the driver perimeter to the cup rim.  Then, decide which you like better; or do something different.
 
It helps to use a reference set for comparisons as you make your mods because aural memory is fleeting and unreliable. For me this configuration using greater density tungsten putty is very good and better than what I've tried before. If you don't like it, it's reversible.
 
Good luck with your mods. Have fun!
 
Quote:

Can i use plasticine instead of tungsen putty and get the same result?