[wdahm519]

Quote:

 
 
Uh oh, another question, is Silverstone acoustic foam as good as Akasa?
http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1317569071&sr=8-1

I have not done a direct comparison between the two but the Silverstone foam works well, I can attest to that much.  It feels as though it has all the good qualities of a nice acoustic foam.  Its very open-celled, extremely soft, etc.  
 

 

[LFF]

Quote:

I have not done a direct comparison between the two but the Silverstone foam works well, I can attest to that much.  It feels as though it has all the good qualities of a nice acoustic foam.  Its very open-celled, extremely soft, etc.  
 

It's quite popular for use in Studios.
 

 

[wdahm519]

I hope one of our modded T50RP's, whether it be Omegas, Dahminators, Paradox, Bluemonkeypants, etc. shows up at CanJam 2011 so we can amaze people... 

 

[micmacmo]

It looks like melamine. In one of my earliest experiments, I tried this with limited success -- I don't recall the details. I haven't gone back to it, but others who have made comparisons say it isn't as good as paxmate.
 
Quote:

 

 
Sounds sure nice, but midrange spike kills my ears in 5 minutes of listening. I have some doubts this headphone will be a silver bullet for me.
 
I will be trying to put the plasticine around the driver and use larger reflex dot to battle it. Will post any progress.

 

 

[OmerNess]

ok, so i want to get things together before I'm getting my paycheck and spending it on building a rig
will the fostex do well with udac2 + Schiit vallhalla (connected to my computer playing Flac music files)?

BTW sorry for being so annoying, but I live in Israel, which means every thing I'm buying from USA/Europe gets my wallet rewarded with high shipping fee (amp like valhalla gets like 150$ shipping fee) and 16~30% taxes, makes a 400$ rig into 700~900$ one

 

[wdahm519]

If purchasing and shipping is so expensive why not just build a DIY amp and DAC?  It would be a heck of a lot cheaper.  Even if you don't have things like a soldering iron, you can buy a nice one and still save money.  Just a thought.
 
Either way, I think the T50RP's will work well with the Shiit Vallhalla.  If I remember reading correctly, we were talking about Shiit amps earlier in this thread.  You can try and go back 3 or 4 or so pages and find it, I really don't remember where it was.

 

[OmerNess]

If purchasing and shipping is so expensive why not just build a DIY amp and DAC?  It would be a heck of a lot cheaper.  Even if you don't have things like a soldering iron, you can buy a nice one and still save money.  Just a thought.
 
Either way, I think the T50RP's will work well with the Shiit Vallhalla.  If I remember reading correctly, we were talking about Shiit amps earlier in this thread.  You can try and go back 3 or 4 or so pages and find it, I really don't remember where it was.

thats actually a really nice idea tho i prefer not to build a tube amp (but dac is optional) because i have never done it before, building an amp is a big project and I lack electronic skills...

 

[wdahm519]

As long as you build a kit project where everything already comes with it a Gamma1 DAC, it should be really easy even if you don't have any prior experience because with a Gamma1, you have no case wiring to do and it just slides into the case and you drill some holes (or buy the premade ones) for the panel and tada, you're done.
 
I just redid the Silverstone doughnuts on the earside of the baffles on my Dahminators, WOW what a difference.  Before I used little stripes and made a ring of strips but this time I cut a rectangle with a rectangular hole in the center taken out of it for the driver (and a second notch for the pressure equalization hole) and stuck that on there.  Then I build up the section of the doughnut that touches the part of the pad that goes behind your ear (similar to what I had done in the last iteration of the Dahminators).  I never got a great feel of perfect fit on my last iteration of the Dahminators, but now its incredibly perfect.  Sounds better now too with a 5% better seal due to not having fitment issues.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

micmacmo,
 
You may be correct, it does look similar to melamine I successfully tried yesterday as a substitute for the white driver felt, not as dampening material in the cups.  Whatever it is, it looks smooth with either no open cells or open cells so small this material may not perform to the level needed. So, it makes sense to take it out and try Paxmate or Silverstone.
 
The only other variable I see that may contribute to upper frequency fatigue is the reflex dot.  The logical order of tests would be to leave the white stuff in place and remove the reflex dot, then test.  If that does not solve the problem, put the reflex dots back on and replace the white stuff in the cups with Paxmate and test.  Repeat with Paxmate after removing the reflex dot.  Cortlendt, if none of these 3 tests solve the problem, check your source/media, interconnects, DAC, and amp.  BTW, your mods look very nice.
 
Quote:

It looks like melamine. In one of my earliest experiments, I tried this with limited success -- I don't recall the details. I haven't gone back to it, but others who have made comparisons say it isn't as good as paxmate. 
 

 

 

[wdahm519]

Micmacmo, 
 
You might get better performance if you add more plasticine to the baffles.  It looks all nice that you have it neatly in there, but there are important parts that you didn't fill, like next to the driver.  Also, the more you add, the more you damp the amplitude of the vibrations of the baffle.  It really doesn't hurt to add more up to a point.
 
 
I just did another comparison between my HD650's w/ silver cable and the Dahminators.  I used the song Solitary Shell by Dream Theater.  I was A/Bing it back and forth for a bit.  I can't believe I thought the HD650's vocals sounded natural.  They kind of sounded like they were coming from a thin tin driver or something.  It was thin (like I said before) and lacked that robust organic clarity that the T50RP driver gives.  
 
The score:
Dahminators: 3
HD650's: 0
 
I still need to compare with the K701's and the DT990's but I don't have time for that right now.

 

[hans030390]

Quote:

Well I posted a few pages back about what I did. You can look for the post, its on page 207, or 208 or something like that.
Here is the picture of the back of my baffle after the mod.

I don't have a picture of the inside of the cup with the acoustic foam.
The summary of my mods are:
- Acoustic foam covering back of cup
- Lots of plasticine in the baffles
- Two layers of Nexcare Flexible Tape on back of driver after removing white felt (stock)
- Remove felt from front of baffle (ear side) -- NOT the very thing foam that covers that side of the drivers, just the main felt oval
- Acoustic foam doughnut on ear side of baffle with back-of-the-ear-side double layered to angle the drivers
- SRH840 pads
- NO reflex dot

Sorry if you said this already and I missed it, but what did you end up doing for the vents on the cups?
 

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

FWIW:  I'm at work with only my MacBook Pro and modded T50RP's.  My CEntrance Dacmini is at home but no worries; these cans are easy to drive.  I have an analog connection straight out of my computer to my modded T50RP's.  System Preferences: Audio --> set to 100%.  The iTunes volume slider is set to 40% which produces 85 dB with no apparent diminution of SQ.  Much more than 50% is too loud.  Obviously, I can't do a side by side comparison until I get home but, based on my aural memory which may be inaccurate, the SQ sounds the same as playing the same lossless files through my Dacmini DAC/Amp with a glass optical interconnect.
 
Here's my computer specs:
 
 
Hardware Overview:
 
  Model Name: MacBook Pro
  Model Identifier: MacBookPro5,4
  Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo
  Processor Speed: 2.53 GHz
  Number Of Processors: 1
  Total Number Of Cores: 2
  L2 Cache: 3 MB
  Memory: 4 GB
  Bus Speed: 1.07 GHz
  Boot ROM Version: MBP53.00AC.B03
  SMC Version (system): 1.49f2
  Serial Number (system): W89373LC7XJ
  Hardware UUID: B83EEF07-A89D-572F-BAF2-F20A03EC5E47
  Sudden Motion Sensor:
  State: Enabled
 
NVidia MCP79 AHCI:
 
  Vendor: NVidia
  Product: MCP79 AHCI
  Link Speed: 3 Gigabit
  Negotiated Link Speed: 1.5 Gigabit
  Description: AHCI Version 1.20 Supported
 
FUJITSU MJA2250BH *** G1:
 
  Capacity: 250.06 GB (250,059,350,016 bytes)
  Model: FUJITSU MJA2250BH *** G1                
  Revision: 00810020
  Serial Number:         K94DT9829JAW
  Native Command Queuing: Yes
  Queue Depth: 32
  Removable Media: No
  Detachable Drive: No
  BSD Name: disk0
  Medium Type: Rotational
  Partition Map Type: GPT (GUID Partition Table)
  S.M.A.R.T. status: Verified
  Volumes:
  Capacity: 209.7 MB (209,715,200 bytes)
  Writable: Yes
  BSD Name: disk0s1
Macintosh HD:
  Capacity: 249.72 GB (249,715,376,128 bytes)
  Available: 22.31 GB (22,308,237,312 bytes)
  Writable: Yes
  File System: Journaled HFS+
  BSD Name: disk0s2
  Mount Point: /
 
Intel High Definition Audio:
 
  Audio ID: 76
 
Headphone:
 
  Connection: Combination Output
 
Speaker:
 
  Connection: Internal
 
Line Input:
 
  Connection: Combination Input
 
Internal Microphone:
 
  Connection: Internal
 
S/PDIF Optical Digital Audio Input:
 
  Connection: Combination Input
 
S/PDIF Optical Digital Audio Output:
 
  Connection: Combination Output
 
External Microphone / iPhone Headset:
 
  Connection: Combination Output
 
Quote:

ok, so i want to get things together before I'm getting my paycheck and spending it on building a rig
will the fostex do well with udac2 + Schiit vallhalla (connected to my computer playing Flac music files)?
BTW sorry for being so annoying, but I live in Israel, which means every thing I'm buying from USA/Europe gets my wallet rewarded with high shipping fee (amp like valhalla gets like 150$ shipping fee) and 16~30% taxes, makes a 400$ rig into 700~900$ one

 

 

[Cortlendt]

 
Quote:

The only other variable I see that may contribute to upper frequency fatigue is the reflex dot.  The logical order of tests would be to leave the white stuff in place and remove the reflex dot, then test.  If that does not solve the problem, put the reflex dots back on and replace the white stuff in the cups with Paxmate and test.  Repeat with Paxmate after removing the reflex dot.  Cortlendt, if none of these 3 tests solve the problem, check your source/media, interconnects, DAC, and amp.  BTW, your mods look very nice.

 
I will be getting some paxmate or silverstone and replace my current acoustic foam, It has a pretty smooth hard surface, I want to believe it is the culprit. Will take quite some time though. Thanks for the feedback. 
 
I've put my CK10 on after some T50RP listening and I was like lol, T50RPs even incorrectly modded sound so natural.

 

[wdahm519]

Quote:
Sorry if you said this already and I missed it, but what did you end up doing for the vents on the cups?
 

I didn't touch the vents. I experimented with covering the vents with electrical tape on the outside of the headphones while I was listening to them (stock foam still on vents) to see what it sounds like if more of the vent is covered. The results were not to my liking as the bass lost its command, and I don't remember too well what happened to the mids and treble but it was weird so I took it off and proceeded on with my day.

 

[Anaxilus]

Quote:

We need a list of the name of these mods.
 
Thunderpants by Smeggy
Rastapants by Mr.Speakers
Bluemonkeypants by BMP
Paradox by LFF
Dahminators by whahm519
Fosteximus T50RPrime by SLaRe
Omega by joelpearce
Pawbulous Pawstex by dogears
 
Any others?
 

I'll take Pizzurpants if it's available.