[wilyodysseus]

I got the 840 pads too. I'm not totally sold on them. The sound is different from the stock pads, but I haven't decided if it's better or worse. The 840 pads are certainly more comfortable.

The bass encroaches into the midrange, but I only noticed it a few days after changing pads. It's more noticeable with movies than music. The 840 pads were such a pain to put on that I'm loath to restore the stock pads to test. I'd like to get the bass back under control, but I'm loathe to give up the improved comfort.

With what are your covering the vents, mrspeakers? The stock felt is fully in place on my set.

 

[joelpearce]

Have you sealed or partially sealed the baffle vent (not the vent at the back of the cup)?  With the thin Fostex pads, that vent is required to get bass and midbass.  With deeper pads, the level of bass you get with that vent is overwhelming.  It just take a tiny piece of electrical tape over that vent (right next to the driver) to tighten up the bass.

 
Quote:

I got the 840 pads too. I'm not totally sold on them. The sound is different from the stock pads, but I haven't decided if it's better or worse. The 840 pads are certainly more comfortable.

The bass encroaches into the midrange, but I only noticed it a few days after changing pads. It's more noticeable with movies than music. The 840 pads were such a pain to put on that I'm loath to restore the stock pads to test. I'd like to get the bass back under control, but I'm loathe to give up the improved comfort.

With what are your covering the vents, mrspeakers? The stock felt is fully in place on my set.

 

 

[mrspeakers]

x2.  To decide how much to cover the vent, just put your fingers over them when they're uncovered, and progressively roll your fingers over them to close more of the vent until it sounds rout.  

 

[deadhead12]

So, I'm getting this high frequency 'ringing' that I can't seem to get rid. Admittedly, I'm not really sure what I am doing completely but so far I've sort of just followed a bit what I've on this thread.
Mods so far:
1) Akasa on the ear side of baffle around the driver with stock felt removed down to the mesh. The little hole is not being covered currently and the driver is otherwise naked.
2) Plasticine on the rear of the baffle and the stock white paper thing is gone.
3) Cheapo felt (from local arts and crafts store) on the back side of the driver (not sure where to get better felts from)
4) Dynamat on the inside of the cup, but only in the two little 'channels' that make up square part of the cup (thinking maybe this is culprit?)
5) Akasa covering every surface on the inside of cup, including over the dynamat.

I'm also using the shure 840 pads, which i think are a bit better than the stock pads as far as reducing the ringing. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[turimbar1]

Quote:

So, I'm getting this high frequency 'ringing' that I can't seem to get rid of that I'd guesstimate starts around 15k but I can't say for sure.  Admittedly, I'm not really sure what I am doing completely but so far I've sort of just followed a bit what I've on this thread.    
Mods so far:
1) Akasa on the ear side of baffle around the driver with stock felt removed down to the mesh.  The little hole is not being covered currently and the driver is otherwise naked.
2) Plasticine on the rear of the baffle and the stock white paper thing is gone.
3) Cheapo felt (from local arts and crafts store) on the back side of the driver (not sure where to get better felts from)
4) Dynamat on the inside of the cup, but only in the two little 'channels' that make up square part of the cup (thinking maybe this is culprit?)
5) Akasa covering every surface on the inside of cup, including over the dynamat.  
 
I'm also using the shure 840 pads, which i think are a bit better than the stock pads as far as reducing the ringing.   Any suggestions would be appreciated.  Thanks.  

I would say the true culprit would be the felt on the back of the driver. the felt mr speakers uses on the back is very very stiff (it will stand on edge), without something that restricts the air movement on the back of the driver it is likely to get peaky. I assume the back vent is covered? if it is, keep it that way, if not, experiment with covering it.
 
it might have to do with the dynamat, but if it is covered by the paxmate then that should not be it IMO.
 
 

 

[deadhead12]

     Quote:

I would say the true culprit would be the felt on the back of the driver. the felt mr speakers uses on the back is very very stiff (it will stand on edge), without something that restricts the air movement on the back of the driver it is likely to get peaky. I assume the back vent is covered? if it is, keep it that way, if not, experiment with covering it.
 
it might have to do with the dynamat, but if it is covered by the paxmate then that should not be it IMO.

Thanks.  I've had the vent covered for a couple of days, but it still rings with the vent wide open.  I'll try to get some stiff felt and see if that clears things up.  I'd rather not have to remove the dynamat if at all possible because it was so damn expensive.  If I could stop this ringing these would be just about perfect for my tastes.  

 

[Jonclarke]

What amp/dac combo will work good with these headphones?
 
I use a LehmanBCLinear+Dacmagic that sounds really good but i need to sell them and get something cheaper.

 

[Mad Max]

How cheap?

 

[PhaedraCorruption]

Quote:

What amp/dac combo will work good with these headphones?
 
I use a LehmanBCLinear+Dacmagic that sounds really good but i need to sell them and get something cheaper.

uDac2 + Matrix M-Stage or just get a HDP

 

[mrspeakers]

The ibasso d6 and d12 drive it well, are self-powered and can be rolled. The d12 has more input options while the 6 has more power and 24/96 USB

I would probably go with a 6, which wasn't an option when I bought my 12. Unless you blast it both have goodly output...

 

[Jonclarke]

Thanks for the suggestions, I guess the cheaper the better but dont mind spending a couple of hundred £ if it will be worth it.
 
Also how is the best way to remove the felt from the front (earpad side) of the driver. I've taken the 3 screws out but its just going to pull off in a miilion pieces where its stuck down.
 

 

[mrspeakers]

Just use an exacto knife to carefully cut the felt from the square driver opening, if you look closely you'll see a ridge where the driver and baffle meet and can cut through there easily...

 

[Mad Max]

 
Quote:

Thanks for the suggestions, I guess the cheaper the better but dont mind spending a couple of hundred £ if it will be worth it.
 
...

The Audio-gd FUN is a nice all-in-one unit that will make you quite happy.  =]

 

[mrspeakers]

After reading a few comments on Deoxit, I bought some.  Works great!  Given that all 4 of my T50s had noisy cable jacks, this is a mandatory tweak.  Noise and dropouts from cable movement are totally eliminated.  
 
The 840 pads I have been using are very nice.  With some more comparison time, they sound a little different, the 5000 pads have more bloom in the lower mids (I would guess a 3-5db bump).  I have not succeeded in getting rid of that on the 5000 setup.  They sounded really pleasing, but the 840 pads bring it closer to the LCD-2 sound.  Still not there, but closer, and increasingly nicer to me than my hd650s.  As a bonus, the fabric that comes attached to the 840 pads is very acoustically transparent, so it looks great.  Given the very low price, I think the 840 is a better call...  
 
Thanks Turimbar1 for pointing these out to me, I'd missed them. 

 

[marcan]

Something I learned from my beloved Monsoon planar speakers, magnepan or ortho are very directive. It comes from the planar nature of the driver that makes the sound very directive. So the rule related to the andgle of the driver for electro magnetic headphones is even more true wiith ortho hp's.
So when angled, my t50rp's lose the veil in the hi mid and the center is back in the soundstage.