Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW!

[Kibble Fat]

Shrimants,

It seems I am about 1 week ahead of you in the T50 modding scene We can be modding buddies!

Here's what I've done so far:
- SRH840 pads
- Paxmate Plus on the cups
- Newplast around the driver
- Experimented with adding various amounts of cotton
- Briefly experimented with covering the bass vents (fully & partially)
- Reterminated stock cable with a 3.5mm plug
- Cut driver leads between the cups and drivers & soldered in SIP plugs to avoid damaging driver contacts while modding (pics coming soon)

Because my ears are not as finely tuned as a proper measurement setup, I have reached a point of diminishing returns where iterations of modding & listening would have diminishing returns from time spent. They still sound bad with a number of tracks. I was able to reduce this -- with the above mods -- to less 1/4 of my music from 1/2. This leads me to believe that the FR is still quite peaky and that I should wait until my WM-61A measurement setup is complete to verify what I'm hearing. The peaks have gotten narrower and too tricky for me to isolate. Having measurements allow me to target those peaks given I measure the effects of each individual mod first.... in theory

Like I said, we should collaborate on this. I'll even let you measure your phones assuming I can get my measurement rig working well.

-------------------------------------------

"I like to attempt things myself. My special skill is being able to perceive when something is about to get damaged permanently. Only then will I take it to a professional -- no harm done (by me!)"

 

[wje]

Quote:

Just to clarify, when I said I cant justify spending 250 on the materials, I meant 100% unfinished materials. IE go to home depot or online to amazon and find/pick everything myself. I dont see the point in DIY if I just drop a fat wad of cash on someone else's hard work and put it together like legos. The thunderpants were accomplished with blood sweat and tears, and I aim to put that into my own set of T50RP's. Worst case scenario, i'll learn a bunch of useful stuff. I didnt get them because I wanted to send them to smeggy, I got them to mod myself, and buying the cups and parts from smeggy kind of defeats the purpose of the T50RP unless i'm completely done with modding them myself. And I havent even started yet.

In regards to locating materials, I think Home Depot would fall last on the list.  It will be hard to get the necessary species of wood to make the cups.  However, if you shop various Web sites for wood, like many of the cup builders do for Grado cups, or even check eBay, you might be able to find a suitable piece of wood to work your magic on.  However, it may be best to practice with some cheaper wood, and come up with a few prototypes first - before hacking into a $120 piece of wood.  In that case, Home Depot might suffice if you were to buy some Pine to buy to work with and use for the proto.  You would have to glue 2 or 3 3/4" pieces of pine together to get the necessary thickness before you start to cut and shape the cups, though.  Then, from there, you could work the magic.
 
Since you're approaching this as a DIY effort that you'll be able to appreciate on  your own, then you might also consider seeing if you might be able to use some wooden chisels to shape your materials.  Sure, it will be a fair bit of work to chisel and then sand the material, but you'll have a lot of control over your efforts to make a good set of cups.
 

 

[wdahm519]

Update on the baffles guys.  The printing place I'm in contact with is back up and running so my prototype straight baffles will be ready for me to test out tomorrow!  If they work, I will print a set of angled baffles, let you guys know which is superior or if the are both good, and then get you guys a final price per pair of each type of baffle.
 
Then we can start filling orders!
 
Exciting times.
 
 
I will update the list later tonight, I'm a bit busy right now.

 

[ri_toast]

here's how I did the headband, it is very comfortable, easily made, totally reversible except for the sr3 that donated the band. There's a small piece of hook velcro on the band and another strip of velcro (hook on one side, rug on the other side) band that came from a craft store. The same elastics that hold the band on near the cups also keep the suspension band from flopping around.
 

 

 

[shrimants]

Shrimants,
It seems I am about 1 week ahead of you in the T50 modding scene We can be modding buddies!
Here's what I've done so far:
- SRH840 pads
- Paxmate Plus on the cups
- Newplast around the driver
- Experimented with adding various amounts of cotton
- Briefly experimented with covering the bass vents (fully & partially)
- Reterminated stock cable with a 3.5mm plug
- Cut driver leads between the cups and drivers & soldered in SIP plugs to avoid damaging driver contacts while modding (pics coming soon)
Because my ears are not as finely tuned as a proper measurement setup, I have reached a point of diminishing returns where iterations of modding & listening would have diminishing returns from time spent. They still sound bad with a number of tracks. I was able to reduce this -- with the above mods -- to less 1/4 of my music from 1/2. This leads me to believe that the FR is still quite peaky and that I should wait until my WM-61A measurement setup is complete to verify what I'm hearing. The peaks have gotten narrower and too tricky for me to isolate. Having measurements allow me to target those peaks given I measure the effects of each individual mod first.... in theory
Like I said, we should collaborate on this. I'll even let you measure your phones assuming I can get my measurement rig working well.
-------------------------------------------
"I like to attempt things myself. My special skill is being able to perceive when something is about to get damaged permanently. Only then will I take it to a professional -- no harm done (by me!)"

I'm in. I just got mine about a week ago as a trade for my monster turbines. Its kinda hectic at school so I havent gotten a chance to even listen to them thoroughly, much less mod them. Before I start listening though I have to start by modding the headband somehow so that I can elevate them. They are simply way too big for my head. And another one I have to do before I get down to listening is to reterminate the stock cable. I'm waiting for the bank acount to recharge and then i'll be investing in various materials like Sennheiser cushions to elevate the headphones. i dont like the dual headband look very much, so i'd like to avoid that if possible. Worst case scenario i can get some memory foam ish material and cut an n shape out of it and stick it to the headband somehow. I'd like to experiment first with a very very mild adhesive, like double sided scotch tape or something, and if I like the look and feel i'll upgrade to a proper covering on it along with proper adhesive.

Mine came somewhat pre-modded so they already sound significantly better than stock. i dont know what all is done to mine but i'm pretty sure there has been only some experimentation with removing damping and adding a different sort of damping, and also with mass added around the driver, though i dont know the specifics.

Keep me updated, via PM if necessary.

In regards to locating materials, I think Home Depot would fall last on the list.  It will be hard to get the necessary species of wood to make the cups.  However, if you shop various Web sites for wood, like many of the cup builders do for Grado cups, or even check eBay, you might be able to find a suitable piece of wood to work your magic on.  However, it may be best to practice with some cheaper wood, and come up with a few prototypes first - before hacking into a $120 piece of wood.  In that case, Home Depot might suffice if you were to buy some Pine to buy to work with and use for the proto.  You would have to glue 2 or 3 3/4" pieces of pine together to get the necessary thickness before you start to cut and shape the cups, though.  Then, from there, you could work the magic.

Since you're approaching this as a DIY effort that you'll be able to appreciate on  your own, then you might also consider seeing if you might be able to use some wooden chisels to shape your materials.  Sure, it will be a fair bit of work to chisel and then sand the material, but you'll have a lot of control over your efforts to make a good set of cups.

I gave home depot as a quick example, i wouldnt try to actually get lumber from there haha. more than likely i'd try to create the earcup out of balsa or pine as a prototype like you suggested and once I have the actual measurements and such down, i'd upgrade to a proper material. I wouldnt do the hand chiselled method on wood, more likely i'd use a CNC router as I can probably pay someone at my university to machine it for me and I am capable of CADing the design myself after a bit of research.

I'll want to be doing some research on the driver itself too. Perhaps I can optimize the sound chamber in a closed design or a semi open design according to speaker calculators and figure out something cool that way.

 

[kalbee]

@shrimants: I think the O2 pads are... very expensive to say the least. Start with the 840 pads since you already have them. Your M50 can lend it to T50RP for a little while, I'm sure of it!
Also if you want to raise the headphones, as I said, try the suspension headband first. The easiest way is to grab a useless piece of cloth or paper, punch a hole, remove the big screw on one of the headband ends, affix the paper/cloth to it, trial and error or approximate how much headband length you want, punch the second hole and attach that too. That way you can try and find a good size headband without spending too much, then move on to using better cloth/leather/pleather/etc.
And once again, the cable you can reterminate it or just use another male-to-male cable.

 

[wdahm519]

Quote:

@shrimants: I think the O2 pads are... very expensive to say the least. Start with the 840 pads since you already have them. Your M50 can lend it to T50RP for a little while, I'm sure of it!
Also if you want to raise the headphones, as I said, try the suspension headband first. The easiest way is to grab a useless piece of cloth or paper, punch a hole, remove the big screw on one of the headband ends, affix the paper/cloth to it, trial and error or approximate how much headband length you want, punch the second hole and attach that too. That way you can try and find a good size headband without spending too much, then move on to using better cloth/leather/pleather/etc.
And once again, the cable you can reterminate it or just use another male-to-male cable.

Reterminating will be difficult.  I dissected one of my T50RP cables.  The wires are microscopic and embedded in a strange metal shielding.  I've build very, very many cables and I had a ton of trouble with these.  I don't just recommend reterminating it.

 

[Kibble Fat]

Reterminating will be difficult.  I dissected one of my T50RP cables.  The wires are microscopic and embedded in a strange metal shielding.  I've build very, very many cables and I had a ton of trouble with these.  I don't just recommend reterminating it.

I found it to be quite easy and strait forward, but you're right: one wouldn't expect that tiny IEM wire to be inside this cable. There are three 26AWG (maybe smaller?) enameled wires inside which makes the trickiest part stripping a section of the silicon rubber off without taking strands with it. Take a small amount of solder on your iron and hold it to the exposed enamel on one of the wires. The enamel will start to melt away after a few seconds and start to tin. You may have to make a second or third pass to get the other side, just be sure to let the wire cool between passes. FYI: I use a 25-watt for everything except gauges below 16AWG or so. Yes, everything.

I guess I'll take some pics now

 

[shrimants]

Can I get a suggestion for where to buy a spool of nice audio grade wire? It doesnt need to be anythign special but I also dont want to use that 20awg radioshack junk. The only other thing I have is speaker wire and I dont think thats good for headphone applications (though it does look nice). its really thick.

I kind of understand the cost of smeggy's kit after seeing those O2 pads price. Definitely gonna stick with SRH-840 pads as I didnt want to spend more than the worth of the headphones trying to make it better.

Does anyone know how to break in a pair of pads? My ath-m50 pads are very hard and unforgiving and I'd like to soften them up as much as possible without dissecting them.

I didnt realize the headband thing was that easy to do. I'll give that a shot first, definitely. I think I might even have some leather or other type of strips laying around.

Also, I guess i'll start by creating my own wire and gouging out the 3.5mm jack on the phones to make it easily accessible to various brands of non-locking cable. I really wish they had made it a bottom-fed connector instead of this weird right angle thing haha

Do the SRH-840 pads fit right on like the stock pads do? They are a little bit loose on my ath-m50's but I really dont want them to get all stretched out and not fit the ath-m50 anymore. They already spin around and dont hold on right. They fall off easily from the ath-m50.

 

[Kibble Fat]

The 840 pads are pretty snug on the T50RP and people say they do loosen up after a few mod sessions. If I were you I'd pick up another set

 

[wdahm519]

Quote:

Can I get a suggestion for where to buy a spool of nice audio grade wire? It doesnt need to be anythign special but I also dont want to use that 20awg radioshack junk. The only other thing I have is speaker wire and I dont think thats good for headphone applications (though it does look nice). its really thick.
I kind of understand the cost of smeggy's kit after seeing those O2 pads price. Definitely gonna stick with SRH-840 pads as I didnt want to spend more than the worth of the headphones trying to make it better.
Does anyone know how to break in a pair of pads? My ath-m50 pads are very hard and unforgiving and I'd like to soften them up as much as possible without dissecting them.
I didnt realize the headband thing was that easy to do. I'll give that a shot first, definitely. I think I might even have some leather or other type of strips laying around.
Also, I guess i'll start by creating my own wire and gouging out the 3.5mm jack on the phones to make it easily accessible to various brands of non-locking cable. I really wish they had made it a bottom-fed connector instead of this weird right angle thing haha
Do the SRH-840 pads fit right on like the stock pads do? They are a little bit loose on my ath-m50's but I really dont want them to get all stretched out and not fit the ath-m50 anymore. They already spin around and dont hold on right. They fall off easily from the ath-m50.

For "audio grade" cable for recabling, I suggest Mogami 2534 or 2893 Neglex Quad Cable.  I use 2534 (usually) in conjunction with Furutech 1/4" male connectors for most of my reachable jobs.  Neutrik REAN series connectors are also very good.  
 
Break in pads by wearing them.
 
I used a leather belt for one of my headbands.  It worked well.
 
Its hard to gouge out the 3.5mm jack on the T50RP's.  I've tried.  Its not a normal connector made for handing again.  Its sealed in rubber to the core almost.  There's not "space" like you'd get in a consumer jack where you can attach the wires.  They are completely surrounded in rubber, with rubber touching the cables.  
 
SRH840 pads are tight on the T50RP.  Look into finding FA-003 pads, but they don't fit at all.  I have a baffle that converts your T50RP to get them to fit, or you can use a sock.
 
 
I suggest you read back as many pages as your brain can stand.  Almost all of these answers... no all of them are already answered multiple times, and now again.
 

 

[tdockweiler]

Quote:

For "audio grade" cable for recabling, I suggest Mogami 2534 or 2893 Neglex Quad Cable.  I use 2534 (usually) in conjunction with Furutech 1/4" male connectors for most of my reachable jobs.  Neutrik REAN series connectors are also very good.  

 

 
Mogami Starquad is good and it's neutral wire, but slightly warm sounding, but less so than Canare. Mogami is a favorite of mine.
 
 
My favorite cheapy wire is found here:
http://best-tronics.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BMI&Product_Code=CA-0363&Category_Code=MICROPHONE
 
 
It's "CA-0363". I used it to recable my DJ100 and HD-598. Retains it's signature, but sounds a little more clear and detailed.
It's probably a Belden generic wire, but is good and cheap.
 
It's Starquad (4 wires in plastic cover) and easy to work with.
 
 

 

[kalbee]

Quote:

Can I get a suggestion for where to buy a spool of nice audio grade wire? It doesnt need to be anythign special but I also dont want to use that 20awg radioshack junk. The only other thing I have is speaker wire and I dont think thats good for headphone applications (though it does look nice). its really thick.
I kind of understand the cost of smeggy's kit after seeing those O2 pads price. Definitely gonna stick with SRH-840 pads as I didnt want to spend more than the worth of the headphones trying to make it better.
Does anyone know how to break in a pair of pads? My ath-m50 pads are very hard and unforgiving and I'd like to soften them up as much as possible without dissecting them.
I didnt realize the headband thing was that easy to do. I'll give that a shot first, definitely. I think I might even have some leather or other type of strips laying around.
Also, I guess i'll start by creating my own wire and gouging out the 3.5mm jack on the phones to make it easily accessible to various brands of non-locking cable. I really wish they had made it a bottom-fed connector instead of this weird right angle thing haha
Do the SRH-840 pads fit right on like the stock pads do? They are a little bit loose on my ath-m50's but I really dont want them to get all stretched out and not fit the ath-m50 anymore. They already spin around and dont hold on right. They fall off easily from the ath-m50.

I believe Smeggy's TP1's use the stock T50RP pads. The cost comes from labour and the cost of exotic wood (saw somewhere smeggy and another member who'se name I forgot... but his title was "Dr. Wood", talk about a nice block of some sort of exotic wood I can't even remember, and it was upwards in a few hundred bucks or thousand something). Well, can be anything else, but as consumer it sounds right to split the 3 major costs into wood, workmanship (since they're customs and not mass production, it's more expensive. And it's hand made), and... intellectual property in the sense of him knowing his stuff.
 
The 840 pads are a bit small for the T50RP, and by putting them on you will be stretching them. If they are already a little big on the M50 and you plan on returning them to it, you may want to make a ugly buy efficient cord system where you can just tighten the flaps with a cord and knot or something. Or a new pair of 840 pads Putting them on is pretty simple, although it may take some time. Just put one side on and continue to slowly progress along the sides, holding the fitted flaps with your other hands so they don't slip off.
 
To break in pads, you wear them. Another way might be to rigorously wash them, but this might not work for all types of pads.
 
If you're looking for easily accessible various brand non-locking cable (don't need the lock mechanism anyway), it's been suggested to use V-MODA cables, with the 45 degree plug plugged into the cups. Though according to a few measurements made recently, seems they use low gauge wires too. I use a Sony Piiq Marqii cable reversed; seems to have less resistance across (1.5ohms ish) than the V-MODA, but I honestly don't know if it matters too much. Compared to 50ohms on drivers, and less efficiency from damping... not to mention orthodynamic drivers AND the cables would be pure resistive impedance, I honestly don't think it's a big issue. It may not be completely neutral, but if every cable has it's own characteristic, then what is!
 
As for the headband, yeah, it's really easy. From the Wiki thread you can also find LFF's method with elastics. It should prove to be more comfortable, though I just have hard time with adjusting elastics. Remember to make a template first! If you need, here is the one I made.
The height of the image is 11", basically a full letter size paper. This size WILL NOT FIT the Fostex, you'll have to skew it as you see fit. Though for an overall shape this one is pretty comfortable, at least to me. Sorry I didn't align it to any axis :S

 

[shrimants]

well i've cut the stock cable because a quarter inch plug is entirely useless to me with my current audio setup. I realize now why my attempts at fixing headphones in the past never worked. I had no clue that the enamel coating was nonconductive. I am going to try to find my old heatsink clampy thing and melt off the enamel. If that doesnt go correctly, I'fve technically not really suffered any losses.

What is your guys' opinion on 4-core cable vs single core cable thats been braided and shrink wrapped? I kind of like the braid idea and it looks snazzy as heck, but I can see where it would get rather expensive when you need 30 feet of cable to make 10 feet of cable.

 

[Kibble Fat]

Relevent:


Stock T50RP cable cut in half and re-terminated with 3.5mm Neutriks/Reans


Tiny 26 or 30 AWG enamel wire commonly used in IEMs


SRH840 pads, Paxmate Plus, Newplast, hot-glued screw cover, drilled baffle vent (2 of 4 open), fuzz from cotton, and improvised SIP plugs


A close-up of the male SIP plug with a few mm of heatshrink

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Happy modding!