This is about as end game as it gets, NO less.
if Funk is part of your daily diet, try this album, a Sony high end album production.
Consistent on any media, vinyl, CD and digital 24 bit.
One of my test album for sibilance...
This is about as end game as it gets, NO less.
if Funk is part of your daily diet, try this album, a Sony high end album production.
Consistent on any media, vinyl, CD and digital 24 bit.
One of my teat album for sibilance...
Yep. Worth every penny, comparing to the other brands. i reckon they are more expensive if to be built by others. Totem on the '07 full bodied upper trebles, a la Z1R trebles (my personal ref. for end game trebles), peaks mysteriously disappeared...
Well, I can definitely say that after about 24-28 hours burn-in, these have calmed down a ton. That area has fallen in line nicely IMO. I am not using any EQ, nor have I changed tips or cable. Well, I have changed the tips to the stock Piston 2s. I love the way the blue ones sound, but they are too short, and give me some irritation. These are wide bore (pretty much same diameter), but are a bit longer:
Anyhow, it is still too soon to make final judgement, but if I were pressed to give opinion of these, I would say that they are some of the best sounding IEMs I have heard to date. They have some of the best qualities from my three top IEMs (in my collection), but just a lot more of it. Using them on the DX300 (I'm sure) helps a ton, but really they sound top notch on the DX160 also. I have yet to test them on my older DAPs (Fiio X5 first gen, and X3II).
Funny thing is that even the poor quality songs I have still (from those damned Napster, and Limelight days), sound really good. It's just that the FLACs and DSD ones sound out of this world!
Dip a cotton swab in 3% hydrogen peroxide and hold it to the mesh. The peroxide should dissolve any stuck-on wax and the swab itself should wick it out. Might take up to 10-15 minutes, depending on the buildup or if there are sponge filters just behind the nozzle.
Previously had a massive channel imbalance on a set of Moondrop Kanas Pro that I used this method to correct. As a result of that experience, I highly recommend doing this with the nozzles upside down, btw. Nothing will freak you out more than the risk of intentionally putting liquid near the drivers, but as long as the swab isn't over-saturated, you should be good to go.
Dip a cotton swab in 3% hydrogen peroxide and hold it to the mesh. The peroxide should dissolve any stuck-on wax and the swab itself should wick it out. Might take up to 10-15 minutes, depending on the buildup or if there are sponge filters just behind the nozzle.
Previously had a massive channel imbalance on a set of Moondrop Kanas Pro that I used this method to correct. As a result of that experience, I highly recommend doing this with the nozzles upside down, btw. Nothing will freak you out more than the risk of intentionally putting liquid near the drivers, but as long as the swab isn't over-saturated, you should be good to go.
This method could also be used with just pouring a bit of peroxide in a small bowl and removing the filter. Let is soak for a bit, then you could use some (low pressure) canned air to blow it off from the bottom side out.
AFAIK there aren't sponges underneath, as they are removable, and I haven't seen anything to this nature.
As for the IEMs themselves; not only are these some the best IEMs I have heard to date, but I have discovered that these are also some of the best low volume sound devices period. Before these, my HD700 were king at low volume listening, but these are actually better. Do they need some volume to drive them fully? Well, yes to their full potential, but if I had to put a number on it, they sound every bit of 85-90% at a very low volume (if that makes any sense).
This method could also be used with just pouring a bit of peroxide in a small bowl and removing the filter. Let is soak for a bit, then you could use some (low pressure) canned air to blow it off from the bottom side out.
AFAIK there aren't sponges underneath, as they are removable, and I haven't seen anything to this nature.
As for the IEMs themselves; not only are these some the best IEMs I have heard to date, but I have discovered that these are also some of the best low volume sound devices period. Before these, my HD700 were king at low volume listening, but these are actually better. Do they need some volume to drive them fully? Well, yes to their full potential, but if I had to put a number on it, they sound every bit of 85-90% at a very low volume (if that makes any sense).
Yep, that would definitely mitigate any risk of wetting the driver. Not all of the nozzle screens on my IEMs are easily removable, so I usually have to clean-in-place.
I assume some of why you're having a really easy time listening to these at low volumes has to do with a tastefully-applied V to the overall FR? Most V-shaped pairs I know of tend to thrive at lower volumes than their neutrally-tuned equivalents.
Yep, that would definitely mitigate any risk of wetting the driver. Not all of the nozzle screens on my IEMs are easily removable, so I usually have to clean-in-place.
I assume some of why you're having a really easy time listening to these at low volumes has to do with a tastefully-applied V to the overall FR? Most V-shaped pairs I know of tend to thrive at lower volumes than their neutrally-tuned equivalents.
The T800 you need a tool to (we'll call it) extricate the filter because they are pretty deep inside the tube, so I feel the general pain with those. On these IEMs though, they simply screw off, and pull right out of the top (they double as a wax guard here). With the extra filters that come in the accessories, it makes them semi-tunable (which is pretty cool).
That could be it, but for me it is probably something else because these are more of a W shaped tuning, but the separation could also explain it or the pretty wide soundstage and amazing layering; that and possibly the crossover configuration of the drivers?! Either way, they are fantastic when you want a quiet listen, or are trying to sleep.
Edit: The nozzle screen is also the BA Knowles filter - just in case you weren't aware. Hope the upper paragraph makes more sense with that information.....
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