[ra990]

^ This is why I've decided not to even mess around with the balanced outs on my TT2. Aside from not really needing it with my current setup, there's just too much possibility for a potential error in wiring and frying something, which I've read about others actually doing.

It would have been so much more convenient if there was simply an XLR4 jack for headphones on the TT2.

 

[jarnopp]

I said at the top of the post that it was for single ended. When we think single ended, we think positive and negative. That is what is on the terminals on speakers and amplifiers for standard two core cabling.

Then I added the balanced connections further down, where your ground, positive, and negative come in.

Yes, but I thought it important to not that only 2 pins should be wired at any one time.

 

[jarnopp]

It would have been so much more convenient if there was simply an XLR4 jack for headphones on the TT2.

Yes, for headphones. The rear outputs are good for speakers.

 

[Whazzzup]

It would have been so much more convenient if there was simply an XLR4 jack for headphones on the TT2.

but TT is an SE dac

 

[ra990]

but TT is an SE dac

The TT2 does have balanced outs though, designed to be balanced DAC outputs, but also designed to be able to drive headphones, like the Susvara. I ended up making a cable I built myself for those outputs when I had my Abyss TC. I preferred them from the balanced outs.

 

[GreenBow]

^ This is why I've decided not to even mess around with the balanced outs on my TT2. Aside from not really needing it with my current setup, there's just too much possibility for a potential error in wiring and frying something, which I've read about others actually doing.

I have been in exactly the same thinking as yourself. … I used RCAs plugs to make my adapters to speaker cables.

However I always worried about something metallic falling behind my TT2, since it's on a desk. If something metallic shorted pins 1 and 3 of the XLR sockets, then I would be in trouble.

I did get around to buying some XLR plugs, but then didn't use them. Then tonight I started to change the cable on my RCA to speaker plug adapters. Since the existing cable was just some any-old copper cable. I bought some Audioquest Rocket 22 to use, so I had some proper audiophile quality adapters.

Anyway tonight, with thicker cable of the Rocket 22, I could not get the wire into in the RCA plug. I tired loads of times. My RCAs have some screw in to clamp the wire. I maaged to strip that, making my RCA only solder usable. However overall it was just to tricky, to get meaty copper strands into a tiny RCA plug.

I got out the XLR plugs that I bought ages ago. I looked up the wiring, and the XLR pin-diagram. Now I have looked at it with the wire and the XLR plugs, honestly it could not be easier. Connect 'red' to pin 2, and 'black' to pin 1. (Then at the other end connect 'red to the red speaker female, and so on.)

I will very likely solder the wire to the XLR plugs tomorrow when I have daylight. The beauty of XLR though, is that when we use pins 1 and 2, it naturally pulls the wiring apart. Like in a Y shape. (Have a look at a diagram.) Whereas with an RCA plug, it means laying one wire over another. Meaning you have to manually insulate one from the other. Either by tape, or making sure to strip the plastic coating just right. Also making sure everywhere is not shorted, with even a single strand of wire. Plus that sheath that goes over the inside to break connection with the jacket. Honestly and nightmare: when I look back I am surprised I managed it originally.

Using XLRs now just makes more sense. It looks vastly easier to be sure of not shorting wiring. Plus it will make sure the XLR sockets on my TT2 are not open. Added to that, it means I can leave my RCA to RCA (TT2 to amplifier) cables in place. Then I only need switch speaker cables from XLR plug adapters, then over to the back of my amplifier. Depending if I am using and amplifier or not.

The only other option is to look for some very large RCA plugs. Some big enough to ensure that making RCA to speaker socket cables are easy to make.


Lastly though, if you are still reading, you can get some custom cables made by Atlas Cables. I personally think that is the best option. You can pretty much choose which cable to use. Like if you really like one of their cables, like Atlas Mavros. However you will need to check as only most of their cables can be used. Below is the link for their TT2 cable with Hyper 2 cabling.

https://www.atlascables.com/ic-hyper-xlr-zplug.html

 

[radnor]

The TT2 does have balanced outs though, designed to be balanced DAC outputs, but also designed to be able to drive headphones, like the Susvara. I ended up making a cable I built myself for those outputs when I had my Abyss TC. I preferred them from the balanced outs.

how much better was it... from the balanced? very noticeable or slight?

 

[ra990]

how much better was it... from the balanced? very noticeable or slight?

I noticed no loss in transparency and did gain some heft in the lower end. They seemed to have more impact out of the balanced outs. I frequently switched to single-ended to compare and it sounded leaner for sure. This probably only applies to HE6, Susvara, and Abyss

 

[mat.1]

I noticed no loss in transparency and did gain some heft in the lower end. They seemed to have more impact out of the balanced outs. I frequently switched to single-ended to compare and it sounded leaner for sure. This probably only applies to HE6, Susvara, and Abyss

What cable /adapter do you use ?

 

[ra990]

I modified my Dana Lazuli cable. Took off the 4pin XLR adapter and added 2 of the female 3 pin adapters required for a balanced connection (using positive and negative pins from TT2 XLR outs).

 

[mat.1]

I modified my Dana Lazuli cable. Took off the 4pin XLR adapter and added 2 of the female 3 pin adapters required for a balanced connection (using positive and negative pins from TT2 XLR outs).

Thanks,
I made adapter with silver cable here, but I ended up going back to abyss SE adapter .
it‘s more detail and coherent. I try to buy the cable only from abyss, but they don’t sell it.
i don’t want to spend usd 500 for the adapter from abyss.

 

[Mediahound]

I posted something similar in the Hugo 2 thread and thought this might be helpful for the TT2 as well with regards to the built in filters.

I think many don't hear much difference with the filters because actually only two of them really makes a sound difference for most 'normal' tracks, and that's Filter 3 or 4 which are the warm filters.

So:

FIL 1 - No Filtering
FIL 2 - Same as FIL 1 but with some high frequency roll-off. (The HF rolloff only kicks in on high res music like when playing DSD to get rid of some inherent high frequency noise only on high resolution tracks)
FIL 3 - Warm Filter
FIL 4 - Warm Filter with HF rolloff. (Again, the HF rolloff only kicks in on high res music like when playing DSD to get rid of some inherent high frequency noise only on high resolution tracks)

Personally, I use FIL 4 most of the time since a bit warmer sound for me is good with my system and preference.

 

[rkt31]

It

I posted something similar in the Hugo 2 thread and thought this might be helpful for the TT2 as well with regards to the built in filters.

I think many don't hear much difference with the filters because actually only two of them really makes a sound difference for most 'normal' tracks, and that's Filter 3 or 4 which are the warm filters.

So:

FIL 1 - No Filtering
FIL 2 - Same as FIL 1 but with some high frequency roll-off. (The HF rolloff only kicks in on high res music like when playing DSD to get rid of some inherent high frequency noise only on high resolution tracks)
FIL 3 - Warm Filter
FIL 4 - Warm Filter with HF rolloff. (Again, the HF rolloff only kicks in on high res music like when playing DSD to get rid of some inherent high frequency noise only on high resolution tracks)

Personally, I use FIL 4 most of the time since a bit warmer sound for me is good with my system and preference.

Filter 1 is good for using tt2 alone with cd quality files. Filter 2 is best and default for high resolution files or if using m scaler . Filter 3 and 4 don't give full quality of transients but can be used for bright recordings. But I have never used filter 3 and 4. To me green filter (Hugo 2) and filter 2 (tt2) is default with m scaler.

 

[radnor]

Filter 1 is good for using tt2 alone with cd quality files. Filter 2 is best and default for high resolution files or if using m scaler . Filter 3 and 4 don't give full quality of transients but can be used for bright recordings. But I have never used filter 2 and 3. To me green filter (Hugo 2) and filter 2 (tt2) is default with m scaler.

I just like orange lights. So I use 3.

 

[Ards]

Read my statement again. Room trestments are 95% of the solution. Room correction maybe 5%. If you don’t agree with us than you’ve obviously never tried proper acoustic treatment.

Nice ad hominem and an appeal to complicity as well. OK, I get it: conversation over.