[oneguy]

There’s was a test done comparing HDMI length and different cables by some members on here. The summary was that lengths below 0.5m don’t matter.

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/singxer-su-1-owners.839330/page-4
It starts at Post #58 and goes to page 11 or so.

 

[thyname]

There’s was a test done comparing HDMI length and different cables by some members on here. The summary was that lengths below 0.5m don’t matter.

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/singxer-su-1-owners.839330/page-4
It starts at Post #58 and goes to page 11 or so.

It does not look like that from @Energy post #65 on that thread.

 

[oneguy]

It does not look like that from @Energy post #65 on that thread.

I could be wrong then. The last time I read those post was 7 months ago. I thought that somewhere in there it is mentioned that construction may play more of a factor at shorter lengths.

 

[doraymon]

To Doraymon above, I'm not sure I would believe the descriptions applied to each of those power cable types. I am a believer in high quality cables making a difference in your system, but I would not expect that those cable types would always end up with the changes in sound as you have listed them. That being said, I use a DIY 14AWG PC-OCC copper power cable with Neotech wire on my Holo Spring KTE L3. I switched this to the DAC only after upgrading to a better power cable for my stereo amp. I intend to get something better but I am not in any hurry. Most likely I will end up with a Wireworld Electra 7 so that it matches what I use on my power amp.

Yeah I was always puzzled as why a copper or silver plated copper cable would actually change the sound signature or tonal balance of source or an amp.
But it seems universally accepted that copper would deliver the warmest sound at the expense of some detail and silver plated copper would deliver the best detail at the expense of some bass thump.
While I do understand a good power cable can be better shielded and be less subject to noise from surrounding environment, I struggle to figure out how it can affect the tonal balance of an analogue device (amp) let alone a digital one (DAC).
I ended up ordering a copper and a silver and will do AB tests which will most probably end up with little or no difference perceived so I will keep the cheapest...

 

[oneguy]

Yeah I was always puzzled as why a copper or silver plated copper cable would actually change the sound signature or tonal balance of source or an amp.
But it seems universally accepted that copper would deliver the warmest sound at the expense of some detail and silver plated copper would deliver the best detail at the expense of some bass thump.
While I do understand a good power cable can be better shielded and be less subject to noise from surrounding environment, I struggle to figure out how it can affect the tonal balance of an analogue device (amp) let alone a digital one (DAC).
I ended up ordering a copper and a silver and will do AB tests which will most probably end up with little or no difference perceived so I will keep the cheapest...

Testing with your own ears and preferably in your own system is really the only way to be sure. In the end, that's the only thing that matters.

 

[doraymon]

Testing with your own ears and preferably in your own system is really the only way to be sure. In the end, that's the only thing that matters.

Yeah absolutely!
Sometimes though a good preliminary research can narrow down the choices and prepare you for the listening session.
Another million dollar question is: if a DAC or amp sounds dark and smooth, shall I pair it with power cables and interconnect cords that are supposed to match its tonality or compensate it?
It never ends and smells like snake oil... Lol

 

[oneguy]

Yeah absolutely!
Sometimes though a good preliminary research can narrow down the choices and prepare you for the listening session.
Another million dollar question is: if a DAC or amp sounds dark and smooth, shall I pair it with power cables and interconnect cords that are supposed to match its tonality or compensate it?
It never ends and smells like snake oil... Lol

No it doesn't and unfortunately audionervosa has infected us all!

 

[Energy]

I could be wrong then. The last time I read those post was 7 months ago. I thought that somewhere in there it is mentioned that construction may play more of a factor at shorter lengths.

Flat construction would be better for HDMI cables due to crosstalk concerns but they need to be decently shielded between them since high speed I²S is very susceptible to these sorts of things. Shorter length is also as equally important. I would not go longer than 0.5M for I²S transmission.

If you’re on a budget, the APOLLO AV LIGHTNING V2 is a great cable. If you have a little more money to spend, the WireWorld Ultraviolet or Starlight should be a small step up in turns of quality/build construction but through my personal experience does not sound any different. Each to his/her own.

I am very much in love with my Holo Audio Spring and have even built a super computer so it can run POLY-SINC-XTR-MP filter while playing at DSD512 with HQPLAYER and music has never been better. I will post a photo soon!

 

[oneguy]

Flat construction would be better for HDMI cables due to crosstalk concerns but they need to be decently shielded between them since high speed I²S is very susceptible to these sorts of things. Shorter length is also as equally important. I would not go longer than 0.5M for I²S transmission.

If you’re on a budget, the APOLLO AV LIGHTNING V2 is a great cable. If you have a little more money to spend, the WireWorld Ultraviolet or Starlight should be a small step up in turns of quality/build construction but through my personal experience does not sound any different. Each to his/her own.

I am very much in love with my Holo Audio Spring and have even built a super computer so it can run POLY-SINC-XTR-MP filter while playing at DSD512 with HQPLAYER and music has never been better. I will post a photo soon!

You are about to achieve beast mode!

 

[bflat]

Yeah absolutely!
Sometimes though a good preliminary research can narrow down the choices and prepare you for the listening session.
Another million dollar question is: if a DAC or amp sounds dark and smooth, shall I pair it with power cables and interconnect cords that are supposed to match its tonality or compensate it?
It never ends and smells like snake oil... Lol

Make sure you have an AC conditioner between your components and your wall outlet. If you don't, your power cables are only shielding the last meter or 2 of line noise, but will fully transmit any noise from the hundreds of feet of power lines running throughout your home. Kitsune Hifi happens to offer custom power conditioners that isolates AC line noise. Having said that, the power supplies in the KTE SU-1 and Level 3 DAC isolate noise too so it really depends how noisy your power lines are. My point being, just using expensive power cords without a power conditioner doesn't buy you much.

 

[thyname]

Make sure you have an AC conditioner between your components and your wall outlet. If you don't, your power cables are only shielding the last meter or 2 of line noise, but will fully transmit any noise from the hundreds of feet of power lines running throughout your home. Kitsune Hifi happens to offer custom power conditioners that isolates AC line noise. Having said that, the power supplies in the KTE SU-1 and Level 3 DAC isolate noise too so it really depends how noisy your power lines are. My point being, just using expensive power cords without a power conditioner doesn't buy you much.

Would a UPS / battery like the one below work?

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-C...8&qid=1508431394&sr=8-4&keywords=sinewave+ups

 

[bflat]

Would a UPS / battery like the one below work?

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-C...8&qid=1508431394&sr=8-4&keywords=sinewave+ups

I've wondered about UPS products too. The prices are certainly better than what you see form the likes of Shunyata, Nordost, and other audiophile shops. Personally, I think the audio centric power conditioners and distribution products filter out audible noise specifically whereas the UPS products have to also consider the higher frequency noise that affects video. Unless we get an engineer to chime in, it may be better to stick to the audiophile components, but maybe look in classified or eBay for a used one. These things last forever.

 

[chaos215bar2]

If the equipment has a halfway decent power supply (which the Holo Spring does by all accounts), there should be no such thing as audible noise in the power line. You're probably trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist.

That said, most home UPSs you find won't be much help when it comes to line noise. The cheaper ones will be an offline design, only engaging anything beyond surge protection circuitry when the input voltage actually dips below their cutoff. Better ones will be line-interactive, but this still doesn't imply any filtering. They just use a multi-tap transformer to maintain a target output voltage while the battery is disengaged (or charging, of course). Without additional filtering, this will still transmit noise.

What you'd need is an online UPS, but even here, keep in mind that no equipment actually requires the perfectly clean 60Hz sine wave you're after to function. The UPS's inverter output may very well be more noisy than your unfiltered outlet.

 

[thyname]

If the equipment has a halfway decent power supply (which the Holo Spring does by all accounts), there should be no such thing as audible noise in the power line. You're probably trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist.

That said, most home UPSs you find won't be much help when it comes to line noise. The cheaper ones will be an offline design, only engaging anything beyond surge protection circuitry when the input voltage actually dips below their cutoff. Better ones will be line-interactive, but this still doesn't imply any filtering. They just use a multi-tap transformer to maintain a target output voltage while the battery is disengaged (or charging, of course). Without additional filtering, this will still transmit noise.

What you'd need is an online UPS, but even here, keep in mind that no equipment actually requires the perfectly clean 60Hz sine wave you're after to function. The UPS's inverter output may very well be more noisy than your unfiltered outlet.

So, would the one I have below work?

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-C...8&qid=1508431394&sr=8-4&keywords=sinewave+ups

 

[chaos215bar2]

So, would the one I have below work?

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-C...8&qid=1508431394&sr=8-4&keywords=sinewave+ups

That does look like one of the better home units, but I still wouldn't bet on either filtering or the quality of the sine wave output when running on battery power. This is a line-interactive UPS, which means it uses an autotransformer to boost voltage during a brownout, but that doesn't imply any actual filtering. And while CyberPower does advertise "Sine Wave Power" on the product page, I'm quite certain their marketing blurb (loosely) implies functionality that the UPS does not have. Based on the line-interactive topology, this should apply only when running on battery power, and then the quality of the output still depends on how they're generating it (which they don't state).