HE-500, LCD2, D5000, DT770, SR80, on a speaker amp (Emotiva mini-X A-100) Project
Dec 19, 2014 at 4:10 PM Post #3,646 of 3,819

Hi Keith:
 
Does the fact  that this is a "flex" amp make it a more versatile (or able) option as a headphone amp than the Mini-x A100?
 
Just wondering...
 
Dec 19, 2014 at 4:58 PM Post #3,647 of 3,819
I would say yes, but it depends on your needs....
 
The class A/B amplifier and power supply circuitry is basically the same for the Mini-X and the Flex Amp, so you shouldn't expect them to sound any different, and the power output is about the same.
 
The Flex Amp uses a stepped digitally controlled analog volume control, which has near perfect channel tracking all the way down (the Mini-X uses an analog potentiometer which, like all pots, doesn't track perfectly down very low). The volume control on the Flex Amp has a lot of steps (I think it's 128 steps - the 8 LEDs just show you an approximation of where it's set).
 
The Flex Amp has two inputs, which you can switch between, and a loop output
(which may or may not matter to you depending on how you have it hooked up).
It also has auto input switching and auto power switching (which probably don't matter for a headphone amp).
 
The Flex Amp has a nice little IR remote control - included (and you can control it using a universal remote like a Pronto).
 
Dec 19, 2014 at 9:21 PM Post #3,649 of 3,819
  I would say yes, but it depends on your needs....
 
The class A/B amplifier and power supply circuitry is basically the same for the Mini-X and the Flex Amp, so you shouldn't expect them to sound any different, and the power output is about the same.
 
The Flex Amp uses a stepped digitally controlled analog volume control, which has near perfect channel tracking all the way down (the Mini-X uses an analog potentiometer which, like all pots, doesn't track perfectly down very low). The volume control on the Flex Amp has a lot of steps (I think it's 128 steps - the 8 LEDs just show you an approximation of where it's set).
 
The Flex Amp has two inputs, which you can switch between, and a loop output
(which may or may not matter to you depending on how you have it hooked up).
It also has auto input switching and auto power switching (which probably don't matter for a headphone amp).
 
The Flex Amp has a nice little IR remote control - included (and you can control it using a universal remote like a Pronto).

Thanks for explaining the differences.  I already use the mini-x as a headphone amp, and it works well. I also have two Sherbourn LDS amps (the 2-150B and 2-75B) that are both deployable in the same way, so I could say I'm okay on this front, until Emo comes up with a dedicated headphone amp.  The remote control on the Flex is what I find most tempting, but I am wondering whether Emo's control freak might be a cheaper alternative for now, for controlling headphone volumes, without being too cumbersome.
 
Dec 21, 2014 at 3:28 PM Post #3,650 of 3,819
Can you elaborate on the digital volume control, some technical details etc.? How is it implemented?
 
Dec 22, 2014 at 11:24 AM Post #3,651 of 3,819
The Control Freak is quite a bit cheaper, and works very well for most people (I use one at home). However, the Control Freak is an actual potentiometer (like the volume control in the Mini-X) and, like all potentiometers, its channel tracking does become less perfect at very low levels. By using a combination of the volume control on the Mini-X and the Control Freak, you should be able to pick a combination of settings that allows you a very wide range of volume control with good tracking between channels, but the stepped network volume control on the Flex Amp will still have more accurate channel tracking over its full range.
 
Quote:
  Thanks for explaining the differences.  I already use the mini-x as a headphone amp, and it works well. I also have two Sherbourn LDS amps (the 2-150B and 2-75B) that are both deployable in the same way, so I could say I'm okay on this front, until Emo comes up with a dedicated headphone amp.  The remote control on the Flex is what I find most tempting, but I am wondering whether Emo's control freak might be a cheaper alternative for now, for controlling headphone volumes, without being too cumbersome.

 
Dec 22, 2014 at 11:46 AM Post #3,652 of 3,819
Basically it's what we call "a digitally controlled analog ladder network". What that means is that it is a ladder network made up of a whole bunch of precision resistors, dividing down a real analog signal, controlled by analog switches, which are in turn controlled by digital circuitry. The result is very low noise and distortion, almost perfect channel tracking all the way down, and better reliability than mechanical relays - and it all fits on a chip. (The important thing is that the volume control itself is actually analog; the analog signal is divided down using resistors - it is not converted to digital and back again.)
 
Quote:
  Can you elaborate on the digital volume control, some technical details etc.? How is it implemented?

 
Dec 27, 2014 at 11:23 AM Post #3,653 of 3,819
Hi! I've been working on modifying a pair of Fostex T50RPs to suit my tastes. I've also been looking for a powerful solution to powering them, my Fiio E10K can't keep up with them. I heard about this project and I'm wondering what exactly I'd need to get my T50RPs running off of the Emotiva, I would like to snag one and use it for the cans + a set of Miccas I have (with obvious room for speaker improvement in the future). So yeah, what exactly would I need to get the T50RPs working? They have a stock 1/4" cable, can I just go from (1/4 - stereo to mono splitter - mono to banana plug - Emotiva) or is there some adaptor I'd need to safely use them?
 
Dec 27, 2014 at 11:57 AM Post #3,654 of 3,819
Hi! I've been working on modifying a pair of Fostex T50RPs to suit my tastes. I've also been looking for a powerful solution to powering them, my Fiio E10K can't keep up with them. I heard about this project and I'm wondering what exactly I'd need to get my T50RPs running off of the Emotiva, I would like to snag one and use it for the cans + a set of Miccas I have (with obvious room for speaker improvement in the future). So yeah, what exactly would I need to get the T50RPs working? They have a stock 1/4" cable, can I just go from (1/4 - stereo to mono splitter - mono to banana plug - Emotiva) or is there some adaptor I'd need to safely use them?

It is safe to go that route with the emotiva, yes.
Not necessarily with other speaker amps, though.
 
Dec 27, 2014 at 12:22 PM Post #3,655 of 3,819
So I will need:

2x http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-BNP116BK-Banana-Speaker-Adaptor/dp/B0010CEIH8/ref=pd_sim_e_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0CK60NHNJJX813CCTK0K

1x http://www.amazon.com/HOSA-Stereo-4-Inch-Phone-Female/dp/B000068O5D/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_1_2


And this will be safe for both the amp and the T50RPs, correct?
 
Dec 27, 2014 at 12:45 PM Post #3,656 of 3,819
So I will need:

2x http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-BNP116BK-Banana-Speaker-Adaptor/dp/B0010CEIH8/ref=pd_sim_e_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0CK60NHNJJX813CCTK0K

1x http://www.amazon.com/HOSA-Stereo-4-Inch-Phone-Female/dp/B000068O5D/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_1_2


And this will be safe for both the amp and the T50RPs, correct?

Approved 
smily_headphones1.gif
 
 
Be aware that you are dealing with a speaker amp, though. Therefore, I recommend always to turn the volume down before turning on or off if your headphones are connected to the amp. The best thing to do if you want to be absolutely safe is to turn the volume down and then unplug the headphones and then turn the amp off, reverse cycle for when turning the amp on. 
At last, you should be aware that jacks can short when plugging/unplugging the headphones from the amp. Therefore, before plugging/unplugging turn the amp all the way down.
 
If you follow above guidelines you should be good to go.
 
Dec 27, 2014 at 2:27 PM Post #3,658 of 3,819
Thanks a ton! When I get the $200 later this month I'll send in the order for the Emotiva.

You are welcome. 
 
Remember you can also experience noise issues and perhaps imbalance at lower listening levels. I have the beforementioned problems and the solution for me was to build a resistor network to attenuate the signal.
 

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