Actually, no, that wouldn't help at all - and here's why.
The way virtually all modern amplifiers work is that the amplifier itself has a fixed amount of gain - which is usually very closely matched between the channels. The signal coming in goes to the volume control, which reduces the level by some amount depending on where you set the knob, then sends the signal on to the amplifier channels, which then apply their fixed amount of gain to the reduced signal. The gain in the amplifier channels of most modern amplifiers themselves is almost perfectly identical.
Adding resistors across the output terminals will do a great job of heating up your resistors, and possibly even smoking them depending on the size and value you choose, and will make the amp run a bit warmer, but it won't affect the output level at all.
The reason you get tracking problems is that our hearing is logarithmic - and the Volume control is designed to match that - and the Volume control is where the mismatch occurs.
If the knob was linear, and marked from 0 to 10, and you had a 1V signal coming in, then setting the knob to 10 would get you 1V, 9 would get you 0.9V, 8 would get you 0.8V, etc.
However, with a logarithmic taper, setting the knob to 10 gets you 1V, setting it to 9 gets you 0.1V, setting it to 8 gets you 0.01V, setting it to 7 gets you 0.001V, etc.
The problems occur because this "uneven" taper means that the value of resistance in the element behind the knob is "all scrunched up" near the bottom of the range. This means that, when they're making the part, an mechanical error of a few degrees around 9 on the scale would be barely audible, but an error of the same few degrees around 5 would be noticeable, and the same error of a few degrees around 1 would result is a wild difference between the channels. The result is that, in order for an audio control to avoid mistracking down near the bottom of its range, it must be made with an absurd amount of precision, which translates to a major cost. (A potentiometer that tracked within a few dB down to a setting of 1 on the scale would cost hundreds of dollars - if you could even find one.) Stepped attenuators avoid this problem because they use separate resistors for each step, and so don't rely on one super-precise mechanical part.
Because all potentiometers have this accuracy problem, what you generally try to do is to arrange things so the signal level lines up in such a way that you're using the control up between 5 and 10, where even cheap controls are relatively accurate, rather than down between 0 and 1, where even expensive controls are NOT very accurate. If you're routinely using a certain amplifier with its control down below 1 or 2 on the scale, you can add an input attenuator, which will then lower the signal level by a fixed amount. This, in turn, will require you to turn the knob up higher, into its more accurate range, which is just what you want. However, this must be done at the INPUT, and not at the output. (You can buy very accurate in-line fixed attenuators, in your choice of value, for $10 or $20 each.) This is the situation you have with the Mini-X, and so you really want the input signal to be at a level where you will be using the knob in the top half of its range if you want to avoid channel mismatches.
HOWEVER, the Fusion Flex, while internally it's pretty much the same as the Mini-X, uses a digitally controlled stepped attenuator, with over 100 steps, instead of a potentiometer. Because of this, the volume control on the Fusion Flex tracks almost perfectly, even at very low settings, which makes it a better choice for driving headphones. (If your input level is too high, and you end up using only the first few steps of the volume control's range, the steps might be "too coarse" to suit you. However, if that happens, you can still reduce the input signal level using fixed attenuators; either way you won't have the channel mismatch issues you might have with a potentiometer.)
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So would adding a 10W 10ohm 1% resistor on each channel help w/ the volume imbalance? Basically make the amp see an 8-10ohm load.
Run each resistor from pos to neg, one for each channel.
