[sling5s]

Thanks

 

[sling5s]

What should I expect with burn in? bass, mids and treble?

 

[Konstantin690]

What should I expect with burn in? bass, mids and treble?

 
Most noticeable is in the low frequency range, bass becomes tighter, better defined and extends lower, midrange "comes to life" also.

 

[speedking]

 

 

 
If you have the cash, Larry over at Headphile actually has a few HP series cups and headbands for sale.

I mean something like this...
 

 

[fleasbaby]

I mean something like this...

Beautiful...

1. How are you liking the HP?
2. Would you take it apart to try the Ypsilon in its housing?

 

[speedking]

Beautiful...

1. How are you liking the HP?
2. Would you take it apart to try the Ypsilon in its housing?

1.They're very neutral to my ears but very smooth with lots of details!
2. Not at the moment...

 

[fleasbaby]

1.They're very neutral to my ears but very smooth with lots of details!
2. Not at the moment...

How do the Ypsilon compare to them?

 

[speedking]

How do the Ypsilon compare to them?

Still didn't gave a try

 

[fleasbaby]

...so what are you looking at?
 

 

 
It's a grub screw mounted into the driver seat of the cups on the headphones I sent to @thelostMIDrange for listening and tweaking and general buggerring about. He came up with the idea of mimicking old Joseph Grado's driver seat on the HP series using grub screws and a tap. I was a little skeptical at first, but decided "...what the hell...". He kindly pointed me to the necessary materials and and gave some pointers.
 
This is the cheap eBay tap I used, and the cheap handle I bought for it. Those are the grub screws I bought.
 

 
I ended up using the 1/8th inch long ones.
 

 
I had a press fit facilitated by strips of electrical tape to get it super-snug before. Now there is no tape, just the grub screws holding the driver in and pushing it against the opposite side of the cup.
 
What do I hear? I don't know. I need time...just finished this five minutes ago...

 

[Konstantin690]

You can try to apply a couple of drops of CA glue in the wood threads, let it dry and re-tap, the threads will last longer.

 

[fleasbaby]

  You can try to apply a couple of drops of CA glue in the wood threads, let it dry and re-tap, the threads will last longer.

"CA" glue?

 

[Konstantin690]

 
"CA" glue?

 
CyanoAcrylate glue, (super glue/crazy glue) use low viscosity so the wood absorbs it and harden it's surface.

 

[fleasbaby]

   
CyanoAcrylate glue, (super glue/crazy glue) use low viscosity so the wood absorbs it and harden it's surface.

Ah...
 
Next time I take them apart I might do that...

 

[fleasbaby]

CyanoAcrylate glue, (super glue/crazy glue) use low viscosity so the wood absorbs it and harden it's surface.

Okay, had time this afternoon. Opened them up, added the superglue, re-tapped and re-assembled. Going to spend some time with these tonight or tomorrow, time permitting.

 

[Konstantin690]

Okay, had time this afternoon. Opened them up, added the superglue, re-tapped and re-assembled. Going to spend some time with these tonight or tomorrow, time permitting.

Let us know how they turned out.
FWIW, the best results to my ears so far are by press-fitting, direct contact, nice and snag, every other mounting method like foam or tape between the driver and the wood cups that I tried, tends to emphasize the Midhighs, which on second thought is not a bad thing, makes snare drum hits, "frightening".