Grado HF2 Make Over
Mar 17, 2011 at 11:04 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 50

schwallman

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I recently picked up a set of B stock HF2s that were cosmetically in bad shape. I had planned on just sending them back but last night I took an ambien and should of just went to bed. The next thing I know I have a razor in my hand and I'm slicing away at the wood glue that holds them together.
 
What was wrong with these to begin with was the metal cups did not have a good finish on them and seem to already be oxidizing. Also the drivers just spun around inside the wood cups. You usually hear about the grados having too much glue, but that's not the case here. There was barely and glue holding them in the cups.
 
So with a little slicing on the glue I got the drivers out of the cups before I went to bed. Today I have been trying to pry the wood and metal apart. Not working out so far but I'm not giving up. I got all the wood glue i could around the base of the metal cup. They just will not budge. I read that dripping white vinegar on the glue might break the seal. I might end up trying that when I get home from work.
 
I took a few pictures of the work so far but I will have to update this post when I get home. So if anyone has a tip on breaking down wood glue it would be greatly appreciated. I guess if the wood cups do break, I can hopefully get someone to make a new set of wood cups for the drivers to go back into. I really just need to get them separated to take the metal cups and have the re anodized.
 
Pics to come....
 
Mar 17, 2011 at 12:29 PM Post #2 of 50
I don't know what they use for that model but the lower Grados use hot-glue that can be softened with steam/heat.
 
If it is wood glue you are in for a challenge. Wood glue is a very durable glue and when the two surfaces are porous enough they are STUCK brutha.  I've seen things that were pulled apart after having been glued by wood glue and often times the material that was glued will break before the glue will.
 
Mar 17, 2011 at 12:52 PM Post #3 of 50


Quote:
I don't know what they use for that model but the lower Grados use hot-glue that can be softened with steam/heat.
 
If it is wood glue you are in for a challenge. Wood glue is a very durable glue and when the two surfaces are porous enough they are STUCK brutha.  I've seen things that were pulled apart after having been glued by wood glue and often times the material that was glued will break before the glue will.



 Yeah im going to agree with you on the STUCK part. My hands are killing me. I had them in the freezer at lunch and heard a cracking sound but no dice so far.
 
Mar 17, 2011 at 1:00 PM Post #4 of 50


Quote:
I recently picked up a set of B stock HF2s that were cosmetically in bad shape. I had planned on just sending them back but last night I took an ambien and should of just went to bed. The next thing I know I have a razor in my hand and I'm slicing away at the wood glue that holds them together.
 
What was wrong with these to begin with was the metal cups did not have a good finish on them and seem to already be oxidizing. Also the drivers just spun around inside the wood cups. You usually hear about the grados having too much glue, but that's not the case here. There was barely and glue holding them in the cups.
 
So with a little slicing on the glue I got the drivers out of the cups before I went to bed. Today I have been trying to pry the wood and metal apart. Not working out so far but I'm not giving up. I got all the wood glue i could around the base of the metal cup. They just will not budge. I read that dripping white vinegar on the glue might break the seal. I might end up trying that when I get home from work.
 
I took a few pictures of the work so far but I will have to update this post when I get home. So if anyone has a tip on breaking down wood glue it would be greatly appreciated. I guess if the wood cups do break, I can hopefully get someone to make a new set of wood cups for the drivers to go back into. I really just need to get them separated to take the metal cups and have the re anodized.
 
Pics to come....


Even non B-stock HF2 were prone to cosmetic issues. I bought one of the first run HF-2, and the metal cups had knicks and random scratches, and you couldn't buff or polish it out because I believe there is a clear coat which prevents you from doing so. Nothing you can do unless you seperate the cup and have them refinished either via polishing or getting them machined again, but thats a very impractical scenario.
 
The hot water bath works, you just have to be careful with steam and moisture. Its also better than chipping away at the glue as it will melt the glue and allow it to rebond and form hopefully a better seal.
 
 
Mar 17, 2011 at 1:03 PM Post #5 of 50
It would seem "odd" that Grado would use a wood glue to bond the wood and aluminum chambers together.  Is the glue "yellow" in any way - as wood glue tends to be?  They may have just too much hot glue and filled the crevices a bit too much.
 
Good luck with your venure - and the vinegar option.  I'm assuming vinegar wouldn't soften hot glue, though - just the wood glue as suggested.
 
I know I'd be a bit nervous if I were at the stage where you are.  Though, I've been there before with automobiles (taking an intake manifold off at 2:00 a.m.) but, never headphones. 
basshead.gif

 
Mar 17, 2011 at 1:07 PM Post #6 of 50

Yeah its an orangish yellow glue. I need a razor that is pretty flimsy.
 
Quote:
It would seem "odd" that Grado would use a wood glue to bond the wood and aluminum chambers together.  Is the glue "yellow" in any way - as wood glue tends to be?  They may have just too much hot glue and filled the crevices a bit too much.
 
Good luck with your venure - and the vinegar option.  I'm assuming vinegar wouldn't soften hot glue, though - just the wood glue as suggested.
 
I know I'd be a bit nervous if I were at the stage where you are.  Though, I've been there before with automobiles (taking an intake manifold off at 2:00 a.m.) but, never headphones. 
basshead.gif



 
 
Mar 17, 2011 at 2:12 PM Post #7 of 50
You're a brave soul.  I admire your fighting spirit.  When you get a chance to post pics, I'm sure a lot of us would love to see this in progress.
 
Mar 17, 2011 at 3:29 PM Post #9 of 50
I attempted to take mine apart with a hairdryer and failed miserably :frowning2:
 
I was way too much of a chicken that I may cause permanent damage. Needless to say they sound wonderful, but I just wish there was a neat way to recable since I find the stock Grado uncomfortable.
 
Darren
 
Mar 17, 2011 at 3:42 PM Post #10 of 50

Getting the driver out was pretty easy. just scrape the glue away. It came up in nice pieces. then i had to slide the razor in the groove around the driver to break up any glue there. Then a little prying and the drivers pop out. It only took about 45 mins of work. I didnt do much damage to the top layer of wood. a few minor scratches. Im just going to lightly sand the tops and they should be good to go.
 
I still cannot get these damn cups apart though. I might have to try lightly sanding the cups and applying a coat of something to keep them from oxidizing. My fingers sure do hurt from prying.
 
Quote:
I attempted to take mine apart with a hairdryer and failed miserably :frowning2:
 
I was way too much of a chicken that I may cause permanent damage. Needless to say they sound wonderful, but I just wish there was a neat way to recable since I find the stock Grado uncomfortable.
 
Darren



 
 
Mar 21, 2011 at 11:58 PM Post #11 of 50
Lets just say it didn't go as planned. The cups are being redone by Bill and I still haven't been able to get the metal cups to the place that will re anodize them. Get your Kleenex ready......
 
Mar 22, 2011 at 2:34 AM Post #14 of 50
Ugh. I would have encouraged you to reglue the drivers and ignore the cosmetics. Reselling these might be a problem if they have non-original parts or have been modified.
 

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