Grado driver mod?
May 22, 2011 at 5:41 PM Post #106 of 111

 
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Just a word of warning. I wouldn't put peel and seal on my headphones. If that stuff gets too hot it starts melting and dripping, which could be bad. Probably not a problem most of the time, but if you heat the cups later to open them, I could envision peel and seal melting. I would stick with a rubber based dampener like Dynamat Extreme or anything from secondskinaudio.com

I have seen a number of peel and seal installs in cars go horribly wrong... Again, headphones are not the harsh environment you get in a car, but I wouldn't risk it. I might be acting too cautious though....

My thoughts exactly.
 
I'm a Car Audio guy myself and that cheap crap has no place in a vehicle or a pair of headphones.
 
For the purposes of headphone mods a product like Blutac, Loctite, and Elmers clay products which are just non hardening modeling clay is superior.
 
I've used it to deaden the interior walls of kick panels....for those not familiar with car audio kick panels are speaker enclosures built from scratch that are mounted to the area forward of the door opening that meets the floor.
 
I've NEVER used a Dynamat type product inside a speaker enclosure.....which is what a headphone is after all.....a speaker enclosure you place on your ear.
 
 
May 17, 2012 at 1:55 PM Post #108 of 111
Quote:
 
 

The magnet plate is not intended to be a secondary diaphragm.  It's intended to hold the magnet, which is necessary to the creation of a magnetic field, which is necessary to make the diaphragm react to the current running through the voice coil.  Nothing is more hyped and yet simpler than a headphone driver.  The potato chip bag (mylar) has a low mass, allowing it to be faster than the old paper cones.  It's form fit to oscillate in reaction to changes in the electromagnet field produced by the magnet and the voice coil.  The magnet is a cheap dynamic costing less than $1 retail.  The voice coil is just high gauge (very thin) copper wire.  The best voice coil is "flat wire" rolled together a few mm wide.  The voice coil is run from the magnet and glued to the diaphragm.  It's a fragile assembly but hardly complex.  Its most sophisticated aspect is the shape of the mylar, which has built-in ridges that look like a shrimp plate.  These ridges give the diaphragm borrowed rigidity for bass.  The center of the diaphragm also a built-in ring to facilitate the employment of the voice coil.
 
With regards to the magnet plate, the only reason it's metal is to help it hold the magnet, which sticks to it without any glue.  You can actually take a screwdriver and pop the cheap magnet out of the plate.
 
As for the bloated claims of the other top headphone manufacturers, ring magnets are not much more expensive.  Grado could employ a ring magnet and completely do away with the back plate.  It would take some retooling, however.  
 
Grado employs a dab of dynatek-style damping on the magnet back, a dab big enough to damp the free ringing of the magnet back without covering up the two ventilation holes.  I came up with my own cheap-and-dirty felt damping that doesn't cover the holes.  It looks like this:
 


 
Doesn't using felt like that reduce the cups internal volume inturn changing the sound signature of the headphone itself? Wouldn't a thin layer of Dynamat/Blutack be better as it wouldn't change the internal volume like the felt, but still have the properties needed to deaden the cups and magnet plate?
 
Feb 5, 2014 at 11:11 PM Post #109 of 111
I used blue tak and 3 small lead fishing weights on each driver. I pushed the weights deeply into the blue tak. Adding mass is the goal, and lead is the very dense, so you get very good mass addition in a small package.
 

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