[hemipowered007]

just put some self adhesive foam directly around the ear side of the driver, just because of boredom I suppose. I'll definitely be tinkering alot, I need to make some legit treble reflectors for cup side of the driver, luckily I have quite a bit of modding materials that have just been sitting in a box for years. I havnt heard a t50 in so long I don't quite know what I should be expecting from it getting nice limba enclosures.

 

[rikk009]

I just wish Fostex would have just made the same driver in 120mm size it would have blown Audeze and Monoliths together. But if they haven't done that till now they probably won't at all. Incredibly good sounding drivers sad to see them being obsolete coz of lack of innovation at Fostex.

 

[hemipowered007]

I just wish Fostex would have just made the same driver in 120mm size it would have blown Audeze and Monoliths together. But if they haven't done that till now they probably won't at all. Incredibly good sounding drivers sad to see them being obsolete coz of lack of innovation at Fostex.

Problem is, they seem to have made enough from t20/50/50 iteration, on top of the th900, and the thx00, I doubt they care to make any type of planar game changer since there is so much competition now. It would have been awesome to see them make something larger like that to butt heads with hifiman, especially since hifiman seems to have gone to cheaper made but higher cost of end product. I have no desire to try anything new from them except an he1000, but, I doubt it's worth the price tag, and I don't like laminate wood, it looks like crap.

 

[axtran]

I actually swapped in T20v1 drivers into my woodies, and it is just LOVELY.

 

[hemipowered007]

Finally got the smc connectors and get some listening time, all that's in the cups(for now) is teased cotton. Because I made baffles that recessed the drivers away from the ears, the alpha pads don't work as well. So shure 840 pads are it for now. I can say I am happy with them but I believe there is more work to be done here. I may try some of those denon pads that have the slight angle to them, also need to try the Alcantra pads off my he4 when I get home. Just happy to hear the t50 driver after all this time!

 

[axtran]

Finally got the smc connectors and get some listening time, all that's in the cups(for now) is teased cotton. Because I made baffles that recessed the drivers away from the ears, the alpha pads don't work as well. So shure 840 pads are it for now. I can say I am happy with them but I believe there is more work to be done here. I may try some of those demon pads that have the slight angle to them, also need to try the Alcantra pads off my he4 when I get home. Just happy to hear the t50 driver after all this time!

Looks very good! On my customs the drivers are also recessed, but the thickness of the ZMF Eikon pads is just right. They're currently with their creator right now for a finish touch-up (@fleasbaby). I recommend also trying the T20v1 driver if you can find an inexpensive pair. That older Fostex driver is just lovely.

 

[hemipowered007]

Ill.check those eaikon pads, i aleo just ordered the waveguides from seencreative. Going to try mods I did years ago to see how they respond to the limba cups. Magazine treble reflector, stiff felt over that, paxmate lattice config on cup, them rock wool. I enjoyed that in the stock cups, I just don't know what typical mods folks w wooden cups and baffles do. There's far less info on that, I need to go back and try and find info on the thunderpants internal mods, just because cup size and depth is similar to what I've made. Baffles are different though. It's harder to search within threads on new headfi, unless I'm just not seeing it. Any suggestions on wood cups/baffles mods let me know!

 

[axtran]

I have a 2" diameter circle of vibration suppressing Sorbothane (buy the thinnest type if you do), and I've stuffed the cups that I have with wool. It achieved the sound I was looking for! I still have yet to spend some time measuring FR, as I didn't expect to switch to the T20v1-style driver and like it so much. The standard MK2/MK3 driver sounded good, but nowhere as warm as the larger, older, circular driver.

 

[hemipowered007]

Ok, had time to tinker yesterday, and believe I found a mod I'll be sticking with for the foreseeable future. Akasa foam cut to fit back cups, then 1 row of lattice. Treble reflector w 3 random holes punched, felt behind that, I used strips of double sided scrapbooking tape to secure. Now, the pictures show makeup pads but I removed those before even putting them back together just because there isn't space. Still using shure 840 pads but believe I will buy the eikon pads soon. These are now pretty neutral with very clean detailed treble, and very well controlled bass that has details going pretty low. But, as always it's not a bassy t50 mod, just fast clean controlled detailed bass. Great timbre on guitars, nothing is really forward, just an easy listening experience but turn that volume up and boom, rocking out. They do obviously need a decent amount of power now, but the ifi black label hasn't had any issue, going to plug them into my sx1010 hopefully this evening. Very, very happy to have these "done" and that lovely t50 driver on my ears again.

 

[axtran]

Ok, had time to tinker yesterday, and believe I found a mod I'll be sticking with for the foreseeable future. Akasa foam cut to fit back cups, then 1 row of "ladders". Treble reflector w 3 random holes punched, felt behind that, I used strips of double sided scrapbooking tape to secure. Now, the pictures show makeup pads but I removed those before even putting them back together just because there isn't space. Still using shure 840 pads but believe I will buy the eikon pads soon. These are now pretty neutral with very clean detailed treble, and very well controlled bass that has details going pretty low. But, as always it's not a bassy t50 mod, just fast clean controlled detailed bass. Great timbre on guitars, nothing is really forward, just an easy listening experience but turn that volume up and boom, rocking out. They do obviously need a decent amount of power now, but the ifi black label hasn't had any issue, going to plug them into my sx1010 hopefully this evening. Very, very happy to have these "done" and that lovely t50 driver on my ears again.

Note that the Eikon pad is quite large, you might want to get the Ori pad as I think it will fit your HiFiman sized build better.

 

[hemipowered007]

Note that the Eikon pad is quite large, you might want to get the Ori pad as I think it will fit your HiFiman sized build better.

Hmm, can you measure them.for Me? Because my baffles are larger than the stock t50. I need to make sure fit before I drop another 60-70 on pads again!

 

[axtran]

Hmm, can you measure them.for Me? Because my baffles are larger than the stock t50. I need to make sure fit before I drop another 60-70 on pads again!

Reach out to ZMF and ask for b-stock pads to save some money on them. The Ori is already a little bit larger than the stock T50. The Eikon is even larger than that. What diameter are you running on your baffles?

 

[William Song]

I've just gotten into modding very recently.
There was a pair of T20rp MKII on sale a little while ago, so I snagged it.
After reading though most of the stuff, I decided to give it a go, it's basically based on most of the stuff BMF has written up, and notes from the mods summary page. (Thank you so much for the community).
I tried a bit of my own mods, I personally like them very much, but I don't exactly have anything else to compare to. (I've only just started getting into audio equipment and stuff.)
I'm running my stuff through a Schitt magni and modi 2.

The mods go as follows
Shure HPAEC840 pads
Used electrical tape to cover 3.6 of the 4 ports.
A piece of thin felt over the whole port
Some acoustical foam I found at jaycar (Paxmate is very hard to come by in Australia) on the back of the cups, not on the centre bit.
4 small cotton balls pulled to size of back wall, stacked on top of each other
Toy stuffing i found around the edges of the cotton, nothing in the centre.
Plasticine in the baffles and in the groove on the edge of the earcup

On the cup side of the diver I did some stuff, which turned out pretty good imo (once again, I have nothing to compare to)
For this bit the drivers and the materials will be described as:
'#' for empty space on that layer
'=' for transpore tape
'F' for stiffened felt
'O' for a hole in the stiffened craft felt
each space should fill up one 'square' on the driver

Layer 1
# = #
# = #
# = #
One layer of transpore vertically along the middle column

Layer 2
F F F
O F O
F F F
Stiffened craft felt secured with double sided tape along the outer edges (not on the driver)
A 4mm hole punched through on each side, exposing a driver square

Layer 3
= = =
# # #
= = =
Transpore tape on the stiffened craft felt, along the top and bottom rows

This is my mod, I would greatly appreciate it if anyone were to possibly make it to this and then test it against other mods, just so I can see how this fares in comparison.

 

[hemipowered007]

Reach out to ZMF and ask for b-stock pads to save some money on them. The Ori is already a little bit larger than the stock T50. The Eikon is even larger than that. What diameter are you running on your baffles?

You're right, the ori pads would be the ones that fit. Just hope they're my answer, i have never liked the shure pleather pads just because they're crap pleather and really don't fit right anyways. What I need is a more dense foam, lambskin or similar covered, proper fitting version of the shure 840 pads. The ori pads have a slight angle, so I'll need to get out a measuring tape and really look at what pad size I want/need. The alpha pads are way too angled, but sound good of a smash them into my head. On a side note....apparently I'm not done tinkering, I don't think I will ever be! I removed the akasa foam lattice runs, kept the foam on the backs of the cups, and like the sound more. Right now I find myself turning the xbass feature on my ifi black label on quite often as they're missing a little something in the lower registers, the t50 is the only hp I've used where the xbass works well TO ME more often than not. But i would like to solve that issue on the drivers themselves. I may go back, and CAREFULLY, enlarge the 2 bass ports per cup from 1/8 to 3/16 or 1/4 then plug/cover to get the bass right. I was also considering using tunable bass ports like on a sealed subwoofer enclosure, using straws or something similar at different lengths. I also have the waveguides coming Saturday. Modding will never end!!

 

[hemipowered007]

Is there a newfound driver that everyone has turned to nodding these days? Just seems all the attention here and grado/magnum has been dimimishing.i just picked up 3 new materials to try from the materials warehouse at work, it's not theft, I'm just borrowing them, kind of. 2 3m products made for telco cables/cases for sealing purposes. Vm mastic tape, another tape more of a dynamat material, then some GMP sealing compound that's non drying and safe on plastics. I plan on really sealing the driver to the baffle, it's already screwed on but want to seal up real tight and cover all the little holes. My baffle has a circular cutout(easier) so there's some tiny holes there on the fostex driver. Then seal screw holes, then make new Silverstone covers for a bigger portion of the ear side baffle. Cover the entire surrounding area of the baffle with either Silverstone or this sealing compound. Then use a small strip of the "tape" to seal the cup to the baffle. They are press fit but I have used electrical tape during my modding process for a better seal until i find my absolute sweet spot. I also installed the shapeways/seencreative waveguides this past weekend. Didn't get to listen as I broke a wire off the solder pad, I already re soldered, but I'm waiting on silverstone now as I ran out of akasa paxmate. I also changed my felt/treble reflector setup, so now I have multiple mods done at the same time w no listening in between, that was a bad idea. Hope it ends well though