[SeEnCreaTive]

Good to know. Nice work.

Maybe de-solder and re-solder the Right driver wires / diaphragm solder tabs?

I'll contact mayflower first, still waiting on email, I'll just call them when I have time. I'm the sole employee at my job right now so 55 hours a week while doing manager things is a bit brutal heh.

If mayflower doesn't want to do anything, I'll just do a full re-cable and remod. The foam they use inside is really thick and squishy, kinda neat. The felt they used on the back if the drivers is nice, but they totally butchered cutting the holes holes. And then its just rolled cotton.


For the recable, I'm thinking just a dual mono 3.5mm. Easiest and cheapest, downside is that I'd have to make or mod my current 1/4" cable. But I guess that goes with any cable mod

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

I'll contact mayflower first, still waiting on email, I'll just call them when I have time. I'm the sole employee at my job right now so 55 hours a week while doing manager things is a bit brutal heh.

If mayflower doesn't want to do anything, I'll just do a full re-cable and remod. The foam they use inside is really thick and squishy, kinda neat. The felt they used on the back if the drivers is nice, but they totally butchered cutting the holes holes. And then its just rolled cotton.


For the recable, I'm thinking just a dual mono 3.5mm. Easiest and cheapest, downside is that I'd have to make or mod my current 1/4" cable. But I guess that goes with any cable mod

 
Hopefully, a re-cable and re-balancing the mod components will solve your problem.
 
I use a calibrated digital scale accurate to 0.01 mg to weigh cotton, felt, fiberglass, etc., and digital calipers to measure everything in order to insure balanced sound.
 
All the leaky areas into / out of the cups need to be sealed on both sides: cable entry points and especially the area around the 3.5 mm jack in the left cup.
 
The vents at the bottom of the cups must be identical. If there are "modified bass ports," they need to be the exact same size on the Left and the Right cups. A difference of a single millimeter can make a difference in sound quality and cause channel balance.
 
If the cotton, or other damping materials, is placed slightly differently, or if the density of the cotton / other materials is different from side to side,  you will likely have channel imbalance.
 
The cup threads for the 4, 2 mm baffle-to-cup screws must be solid - not stripped - in order to have an equally tight seal all the way around or you will lose bass on the leaky side and have channel imbalance.

 

[ts8169]

  I didn't use this exact clay but I'm pretty sure the chemistry of it is the same.  Not taking any chances.  Looks like I'll be removing the clay and cleaning the baffles as best I can with a Q-tip and isopropyl alcohol, which I assume would be good for cleaning any leftover oily residue.  BMF: Can you get replacement screws for these? 

Getting back to the clay used for mass loading the baffles, I recently picked up "Plastalina" by Van Aken at my our local (Newly opened) Hobby Lobby.  I picked up a pound for $3.57 USD.  Pretty cheap.  I did some research and like Newplast, it is an oil based clay and not polymer / PVC.  The package says that it never hardens (won't air dry) and is not "bake to dry".  Sounds to me like Plasticine with a slightly modified & re-branded recipe.  Newplast's Material Safety Data Sheet lists the composition as Calcium Salts, Petroleum products (Oil based), Fats & Pigments.
 
Anyway, I'll be giving this clay a try within the baffles soon.  Hopefully it won't melt the cups!  If it works, what a bargain at 1/10th the price of Newplast.  Moder's won't have to drop major coin importing from UK.  And it should be enough to do 100's of mods.
 
http://www.vanaken.com/plastalina.html
http://www.vanaken.com/factory.html

 

[chowmein83]

  Getting back to the clay used for mass loading the baffles, I recently picked up "Plastalina" by Van Aken at my our local (Newly opened) Hobby Lobby.  I picked up a pound for $3.57 USD.  Pretty cheap.  I did some research and like Newplast, it is an oil based clay and not polymer / PVC.  The package says that it never hardens (won't air dry) and is not "bake to dry".  Sounds to me like Plasticine with a slightly modified & re-branded recipe.  Newplast's Material Safety Data Sheet lists the composition as Calcium Salts, Petroleum products (Oil based), Fats & Pigments.
 
Anyway, I'll be giving this clay a try within the baffles soon.  Hopefully it won't melt the cups!  If it works, what a bargain at 1/10th the price of Newplast.  Moder's won't have to drop major coin importing from UK.  And it should be enough to do 100's of mods.
 
http://www.vanaken.com/plastalina.html
http://www.vanaken.com/factory.html

 
I actually used this exact clay when modding my T50RP, and so far nothing bad has happened to them (it's been several months), so you should be fine.

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

Looked EVERYWHERE online for 3.5mm mono jack and plugs. Walk into a RadioShack in the states, they have 2 drawers full of them. Which was pretty sweet. They had these nice metal Jacks.

Only had surface mount plugs though. But a bit of hot glue can seal it I hope.

Stupid me forgot to get a 1/4inch for the other end. Derp.

So now all that remains is the actual wire. Both internal and the cable. I have all sorts of nylon brading and Kevlar shoelaces to cover the cable.

I have 0 experience with wire, any sorts I should be using?

 

[PETEREK]

Looked EVERYWHERE online for 3.5mm mono jack and plugs. Walk into a RadioShack in the states, they have 2 drawers full of them. Which was pretty sweet. They had these nice metal Jacks.

Only had surface mount plugs though. But a bit of hot glue can seal it I hope.

Stupid me forgot to get a 1/4inch for the other end. Derp.

So now all that remains is the actual wire. Both internal and the cable. I have all sorts of nylon brading and Kevlar shoelaces to cover the cable.

I have 0 experience with wire, any sorts I should be using?

I believe partsexpress.com has mono Rean plugs

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

I believe partsexpress.com has mono Rean plugs

I was planning on those mono ones I just got for each ear, then terminate at a stereo 1/4 at the bottom. Keeping the ground separate until right at the 1/4" l. Hopefully kind of a "balanced" set up.

Just need some wire now

 

[PETEREK]

I was planning on those mono ones I just got for each ear, then terminate at a stereo 1/4 at the bottom. Keeping the ground separate until right at the 1/4" l. Hopefully kind of a "balanced" set up.

Just need some wire now

Well it won't be balanced if it shares a ground anywhere. I balanced set up has a signal for each channel and a ground for each channel. You need to have a balanced source for a headphone to be balanced. 

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

Well it won't be balanced if it shares a ground anywhere. I balanced set up has a signal for each channel and a ground for each channel. You need to have a balanced source for a headphone to be balanced. 

Well yes of course, hence me saying "balanced" with the quotations

But at least it's better then sharing a ground straight out of the cups. With separate grounds right up until the 1/4" at least what ever radio frequencies the cable picks up (considering new ipods just use the headphone cable as the antenna) will be canceled out. Not that I really have any strong ones where I live


Anyways, where do you end up getting you cabling for all your custom ones I see you make over on the cable thread?

 

[PETEREK]

Well yes of course, hence me saying "balanced" with the quotations

But at least it's better then sharing a ground straight out of the cups. With separate grounds right up until the 1/4" at least what ever radio frequencies the cable picks up (considering new ipods just use the headphone cable as the antenna) will be canceled out. Not that I really have any strong ones where I live


Anyways, where do you end up getting you cabling for all your custom ones I see you make over on the cable thread?

It depends on what wire I want. Most of the time I use Mogami w2799 and get it from Redco.com. They're on the east coast so shipping times aren't too long for me, and they're very reasonably priced. w2799 is 0.62/foot (4x26awg wires) and I normally use that for budget builds and interconnects. 

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

It depends on what wire I want. Most of the time I use Mogami w2799 and get it from Redco.com. They're on the east coast so shipping times aren't too long for me, and they're very reasonably priced. w2799 is 0.62/foot (4x26awg wires) and I normally use that for budget builds and interconnects. 

Yeah, I'm in the BC interior, everything is far from me. But that seems like a good choice. I can just ship it to my girlie just across the boarder. Saves unreasonably large amounts of money When I ship things to her heh...

I can stop at RadioShack again as well, to pick up the 1/4"

Won't be the greatest, but I'm sure it'll be better then the OEM t50rp cable.

Also I assume I can just take a bit of the cable apart and use it as internal wire. Although there should be enough internal wire already to add the mono-plugs. I feel like I have good soldering skills, but idk if I want to try soldering those diaphragm contacts.


To hold the sleeving on, do I need to CA glue under the heat shrink? The conectors I bought do have a screw on jacket, but I obviously don't think that would hold on the sleeving

 

[nick n]

If you are  close to Kelowna there is a good electronics wholesaler there for possible interconnects.

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

If you are  close to Kelowna there is a good electronics wholesaler there for possible interconnects.

I'm 4 hours away, but I'm headed there next week for business training. Not sure if I'll have time though :l

But thanks!

 

[mikey1964]

I have a chance to get a used stock T50RP for about 73USD, worth getting?

 

[PETEREK]

  I have a chance to get a used stock T50RP for about 73USD, worth getting?

Abso-effing-lutely.