Fostex T50RP Incremental Mods and Measurements
- Thread starter bluemonkeyflyer
- Start date
I think so but i really cant tell. Best pleather i have come across. They smell and feel like the real thing.Thanks
These are made from pleather, right?
Might be real but the part that sits in the slit in the headphone is pleather, i can tell thats not real leather at least.
Latest modification, added self-adhesive lead strips to the driver and tweaked the felt behind the driver a bit, now its just those pads/feet for furniture and they work perfect.
The lead added 5,2 grams per driver. It now kicks REALLY hard and the bass is the tightest i have ever heard. Quite wonderful!
The lead added 5,2 grams per driver. It now kicks REALLY hard and the bass is the tightest i have ever heard. Quite wonderful!
nice idea, but where to buy?
Im not sure since im in sweden. The strips are for window decoration stuff. Like in churches and that kind...
https://www.amazon.com/Pebeo-Vitrail-Self-Adhesive-Stained-Effect/dp/B00462P58U
V.9002
Now a tiny bit less flat with a pinch of fun factor. A tad larger bass presentation and a bit less treble energy.
I call this one v.9002
Next step is to experiment with different wool/cotton/foam etc in the cup.
Now a tiny bit less flat with a pinch of fun factor. A tad larger bass presentation and a bit less treble energy.
I call this one v.9002
Next step is to experiment with different wool/cotton/foam etc in the cup.
nick n
Headphoneus Supremus
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- Feb 3, 2011
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^ Great to see.
I like the holes punched in the damping pad.
Found it to be a great fine-tuning method after you get the bulk done, depending on the damping layer.
I like the holes punched in the damping pad.
Found it to be a great fine-tuning method after you get the bulk done, depending on the damping layer.
GREQ
Headphoneus Supremus
It's been a long time since I've even touched a Fostex headphone or seen this thread.
Here is my T40RP mkII mod.
My goal was to make a fun, yet tasteful 'bass monster' headphone. I've got enough reference headphones already.
The biggest obstacle with modding these headphones is the crazy bass around 100hz that SO many mods have.
Also, very often when going for a 'bass mod' the bass rolls off below 100hz.
I feel like I achieved what I set out to accomplish.
• Open the rear ports (remove plastic covering the vents)
• Inside of cups covered with adhesive felt - left just the bottom vent open.
• Aftermarket Ori pads
• Paxmate around driver front (make sure to leave the side vent open)
• All stock driver damping removed (this was causing HUGE bass energy around 100-200hz)
• Replaced stock damping with micropore tape, leaving middle and top vents open
• 'Mad dog'esque adhesive felt on back of driver
• Smaller adhesive felt rectangle on front of driver
• 0.30g of Twaron Angel Hair acoustic filler
• One circle of acoustic filler (arctic cotton/thermolam/whatever you have) inside the ear pad - this does 2 things - treble attenuation and 'spacer' that drastically improves sub-bass response.
• DIY suspension headband - makes the biggest improvement, obviously.
(Dip at 4kHz is a well known artefact when measuring closed-backs with miniDSP EARS.)
Here is my T40RP mkII mod.
My goal was to make a fun, yet tasteful 'bass monster' headphone. I've got enough reference headphones already.
The biggest obstacle with modding these headphones is the crazy bass around 100hz that SO many mods have.
Also, very often when going for a 'bass mod' the bass rolls off below 100hz.
I feel like I achieved what I set out to accomplish.
• Open the rear ports (remove plastic covering the vents)
• Inside of cups covered with adhesive felt - left just the bottom vent open.
• Aftermarket Ori pads
• Paxmate around driver front (make sure to leave the side vent open)
• All stock driver damping removed (this was causing HUGE bass energy around 100-200hz)
• Replaced stock damping with micropore tape, leaving middle and top vents open
• 'Mad dog'esque adhesive felt on back of driver
• Smaller adhesive felt rectangle on front of driver
• 0.30g of Twaron Angel Hair acoustic filler
• One circle of acoustic filler (arctic cotton/thermolam/whatever you have) inside the ear pad - this does 2 things - treble attenuation and 'spacer' that drastically improves sub-bass response.
• DIY suspension headband - makes the biggest improvement, obviously.
(Dip at 4kHz is a well known artefact when measuring closed-backs with miniDSP EARS.)
Any ideas/tips to roll off sub bass? I am very close to my target tuning but i think the sub bass is a bit to strong/lingering too long. Thinking more dampening in the cup but im not sure it will do the trick... Either thicker amount of cotton and/or layering the top part of the cup with sound absorbing foam where the blue lines are drawn... What do you guys think/recommend?
(this is an old and sloppy made cup design, today it looks the same but to a higher degree of exact/tidy-ness with more exact ladder pieces for example)
(this is an old and sloppy made cup design, today it looks the same but to a higher degree of exact/tidy-ness with more exact ladder pieces for example)
The side vent is the small hole in the middle in picture "port2" right?
What will happen to the FR if you open the three other ports?
Pictures are made from MK2.
Attachments
I dont have MK2 so i dont know but the other holes, arent they the mounting points for the driver?
Yes, thats right. But the driver itself has 4 ventholes in total, but only one is open (T20RP mk2).
Its possible to drill 3 more holes into the baffle to open them.
V.9002
Now a tiny bit less flat with a pinch of fun factor. A tad larger bass presentation and a bit less treble energy.
I call this one v.9002
Next step is to experiment with different wool/cotton/foam etc in the cup.
Yes, thats right. But the driver itself has 4 ventholes in total, but only one is open (T20RP mk2).
Its possible to drill 3 more holes into the baffle to open them.
Maybe thats the reason why your subbass is going through the roof, because you´ve covered the port with foam?
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GREQ
Headphoneus Supremus
I've never tried opening up the other holes. I have no idea what would happen.
Im not 100% sure but i dont think thats how the mk3 works. I must inspect tomorrow when i open them up again. But the mk3 has 8 vents holes in the front baffle. The baffle is very different.
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