[peter123]

 

[RenZixx]

That's so not true, even my old Cayin C5 can drive them louder than anyone can listen without breaking a sweat. With all the great budget stuff available today I'm sure there's loads of amps available available to drive them and doesn't break the bank. Heck, even my small Radsone ES100 can drive them fairly well making them a seriously excellent pair of wireless headphones

Well also what I meant was that those amps can properly supply enough juice for those cans to actually shine, but I forgot to type it. But I gotta admit that is one dang good wireless setup you got there!

 

[RenZixx]

Thanks for the links. You're right, this seems to be quite simple and doable. I noticed this mod uses a lot more plasticine/clay though. Hopefully the permanent sealing and cementing is optional. In comparison to stock Mk3s this seems to require less power to drive, which is good (?), and even less than the Mayflowers. Before any modding, I think it'd be wise to just stick with stock and see what I need to change. I may try this mod eventually though.

The A5 would have been perfect if not for the price. I did buy them on sale but the retailer was actually out of stock (great luck lately!), so I settled for a discounted A3. For now I need something portable since I listen to music on my phone mostly. I just prefer it for organizing music. But when I'm ready for a desktop amp I'll definitely consider those. I like that the Atom has a 3.5mm in, shipping sucks though. Thank you!

Well you may want to check out the used amp forum's. I've seen the A5 go as low at 60 bucks and 80 on average. The used market has a lot of cool stuff there.

 

[Oneminde]

I have not read the thread yet, but want to ask a question.

"Refined Fostex proprietary Regular Phase (RP) diaphragm driver using copper foil etched polyimide film and powerful neodymium magnet" - The material is also known as Kapton and does exist as flexible PCB material. Her is my question: Since the diaphragm size is roughly 38x38mm - making it 38mm in diameter. Increasing it to 50mm is a 31% size increase. What I am proposing is to use the same pattern, same track width etc but add 1-2 tracks and make then 31% longer. Has anyone considered doing this ???

 

[sophron]

Well you may want to check out the used amp forum's. I've seen the A5 go as low at 60 bucks and 80 on average. The used market has a lot of cool stuff there.

Thanks. That's a great idea. There was a used A5 on sale last week that would have fit the bill. I'll keep a look out for some deals, but for now I think I'll stick with the A3 for now.

 

[Shroomalistic]

Finally got my driver order in with fullcompass. My dumb ass peeled the serial number sticker off so they needed pics of the headphones and the driver. Hopefully it wont take too long to get it. Any tips on resoldering the driver in so i dont bork it again?

Also sent my Tx0's to modhouse today. The wait is gonna kill me.

 

[RenZixx]

I have not read the thread yet, but want to ask a question.

"Refined Fostex proprietary Regular Phase (RP) diaphragm driver using copper foil etched polyimide film and powerful neodymium magnet" - The material is also known as Kapton and does exist as flexible PCB material. Her is my question: Since the diaphragm size is roughly 38x38mm - making it 38mm in diameter. Increasing it to 50mm is a 31% size increase. What I am proposing is to use the same pattern, same track width etc but add 1-2 tracks and make then 31% longer. Has anyone considered doing this ???

Interesting, but instead of making that driver bigger just rather design a new diaphragm yourself, its really easy actually!

 

[ckhirnigs113]

Also sent my Tx0's to modhouse today. The wait is gonna kill me.

Ryan seems to be getting the mods done really quickly at the moment or else I just got really lucky. I got my T-X0’s back to me as Argons in 12 days total! I was expecting at least a month wait time, so maybe your wait won’t be as long as you think.

 

[hemipowered007]

Just fyi for people asking about amping. There's also synergy to consider with t50rp drivers, modded or not. See, at its technical best, my mod had its best overall sound and resolution, driven out of my ifi micro BL as a dac, to my pioneer sx1010. BUT, I honestly love the way they sound balanced out of my zx300, not as much detail, bass is not as tight and controlled, but its a very easy but detailed enjoyable warm sounding experience. So, power isnt everything with the t50 drivers, and yes mods change powering requirements depending on what you do. I have to stop myself all the time from opening these back up, maybe it is time for a new build...

 

[Philimon]

Bad: cotton and/or felt behind driver. Becomes bright/metallic sounding and possibility of bass kill with vent blockage. Cotton around driver but not directly behind driver or covering vents still could hear some metallicness and so just removed most all except very thin pieces that were a little stuck to newplast/clay and took more than 5seconds to remove so left them, inconsequential to sound probably i guess. Blocking ear side vents brings back bass though but now you have a v-shape. And using the mayflower baffle upgrade is basically a type of ear-side vent seal to bring back some bass, but again, v-shaped, and that baffle upgrade affectively reduces ear side physical volume/space and makes headphone sound very closed. 1540 pads I did not like sound or comfort wise, stock is better and is not bad - still would like to try dekoni elite hybrid angled pads. And outer cup vent I prefer open because too lean otherwise.

Good: mass to driver baffle is mas bien. Acoustic foam in cup is no problems. Behind the driver is that little center piece on back cup that juts out. Inside is the pivot/screw where the cups connect to the headband. You can remove the top of that center piece like a cap with some little prying. This adds more depth directly behind driver. I put some foam in there.

Mods I found as good/bad were verified from previous t50rp mod attempt but that was mkii with hybrid pads (t-x0).

Issues: still some sharpness or something causing some ear fatigue. Some songs more so, some songs none so.

 

[Feilong4]

I have a T50RP Mk3 on the way, but was wondering:

Are the drivers really easy to damage say like if I were to desolder them? I had a ZMF Ori a while back and the solder tabs broke right off with the wiring, so I wanted to try to desolder the connections this time around.

 

[Shroomalistic]

They are easy to f up. I barely touched mine with my iron and it sucked the pad off. I still haven’t received my replacement driver but I’m scared to solder it back on and I’m pretty damn good at soldering

 

[RenZixx]

I have a T50RP Mk3 on the way, but was wondering:

Are the drivers really easy to damage say like if I were to desolder them? I had a ZMF Ori a while back and the solder tabs broke right off with the wiring, so I wanted to try to desolder the connections this time around.

Maybe try ghetto tapping the wires on

 

[Feilong4]

They are easy to f up. I barely touched mine with my iron and it sucked the pad off. I still haven’t received my replacement driver but I’m scared to solder it back on and I’m pretty damn good at soldering

Damn, I guess if I were to go that route I'll have to take extra precaution. I don't want to break the solder tab off experimenting like what happened to me with the Ori.

Maybe try ghetto tapping the wires on

That's if I can desolder the internal wiring off without damaging the tabs in the first place. I fried over 5 Beyer drivers doing this.

Edit: Whoops I read "taping". Erm what is ghetto tapping by the way?

 

[jimmers]

They are easy to f up. I barely touched mine with my iron and it sucked the pad off. I still haven’t received my replacement driver but I’m scared to solder it back on and I’m pretty damn good at soldering

Did you flux it first, then tin?

edit: I use a temperature controlled iron with a freshly tinned very fine point tip and 0.5mm eutectic solder and reflow join for delicates,
you probably do too, just saying