[makne]

At Jazic, i did say yesterday, that the pair i baught crackled and they do, but i think it's only fair to say that i don't think that's normal for a lot of people but it has been for some.today i listened to the Elear's at RMAF and they do not crackle. They're closer to what i thought they'd sound like, and they do sound pretty good. Whomever asked how the Clear compared, IMO they are sooo much warmer than the elears. i definitely prefer them between the 2.

oh wow, you find the Clear warmer?
From FR measurements and Jude's video, I would think it was a little brighter, more towards the Utopia signature.
From the measurements it seems like the Clear is leaner in the bass, and reduces (but not eliminates) the 4k dip on the Elear.

So far, it seems to me like the Clear fixes problems of the Elear that I really don't have an issue with. Namely the 4k dip and "uneven" treble. Tbh, this don't seem like enough of a reason to upgrade for me personally, as I'm not bothered by those issues on the Elear.
Still, Jude also promises greater resolution on the Clear, which makes it interesting. Still, I'll have to hear it for myself to make a decision.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Made a cable for my new Focal Elears. The included cable is a joke, this one is much better!

26 AWG silver plated OCC copper wire, sleeved with emerald green 95 paracord, Rhodium plated 3.5mm Oyaide connectors, Rhodium plated 1/4 inch Oyaide plug, Eidolic E-SX2 y-splitter.

Really happy with how it turned out. $80 for parts. IMO, aftermarket cables are the biggest scam. This is high quality at the fraction of the cost of these multi-hundred dollar unobtainium cables I see advertised.

 

[BuddhaBruce]

Made a cable for my new Focal Elears. The included cable is a joke, this one is much better!

26 AWG silver plated OCC copper wire, sleeved with emerald green 95 paracord, Rhodium plated 3.5mm Oyaide connectors, Rhodium plated 1/4 inch Oyaide plug, Eidolic E-SX2 y-splitter.

Really happy with how it turned out. $80 for parts. IMO, aftermarket cables are the biggest scam. This is high quality at the fraction of the cost of these multi-hundred dollar unobtainium cables I see advertised.

Damn that's a sexy cable. Can I ask what your cost to make this was? Also where did you source the materials? I'd love to learn how to make my own cables!

 

[ZenGentleman]

Made a cable for my new Focal Elears. The included cable is a joke, this one is much better!

26 AWG silver plated OCC copper wire, sleeved with emerald green 95 paracord, Rhodium plated 3.5mm Oyaide connectors, Rhodium plated 1/4 inch Oyaide plug, Eidolic E-SX2 y-splitter.

Really happy with how it turned out. $80 for parts. IMO, aftermarket cables are the biggest scam. This is high quality at the fraction of the cost of these multi-hundred dollar unobtainium cables I see advertised.

That, my friend, is a sexy leash. Well done! Oh, the money I could save if I had the skill set to fabricate my own cables. I’m dying to replace the stock 13ft cord with something nicer and shorter, 5-6ft. Perusing the cables at Moon Audio, their TOTL replacement cable for the Elears is $450 for 5ft. Nothing against Drew at Moon Audio, I’m sure the cable sounds amazing, but that’s almost what I paid for my Elears.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Damn that's a sexy cable. Can I ask what your cost to make this was? Also where did you source the materials? I'd love to learn how to make my own cables!

That, my friend, is a sexy leash. Well done! Oh, the money I could save if I had the skill set to fabricate my own cables. I’m dying to replace the stock 13ft cord with something nicer and shorter, 5-6ft. Perusing the cables at Moon Audio, their TOTL replacement cable for the Elears is $450 for 5ft. Nothing against Drew at Moon Audio, I’m sure the cable sounds amazing, but that’s almost what I paid for my Elears.

Thanks for the complements gentlemen! Cost for the materials was about $80. To be honest, all you need is a soldering iron, some good solder, the materials below, about 3 hours, and patience!

Wire: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACROLINK-10...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Connectors: https://www.moon-audio.com/oyaide-3-5mm-straight-rhodium-plated-mini-plug-p-3-5-sr.html

Plug: http://www.partsconnexion.com/product32136.html

Paracord: https://www.amazon.com/95-1-Strand-...&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=95+paracord&th=1&psc=1

Splitter: http://www.norneaudio.com/litzheim/...carbon-barrel-splitter-diy?manufacturer_id=13

You'll also need some heat shrink. The thing about OCC wire is that if you buy it in the USA, you will pay OUTRAGEOUS prices. Buy it from China, it is dirt cheap, either on Ebay or Aliexpress. Only place I've found 1/4 inch Oyaide plugs is Parts Connexion. You can get their 3.5mm plugs many places online. I only use Oyaide, made in Japan, they are very high quality.

 

[Jazic]

Thanks for the complements gentlemen! Cost for the materials was about $80. To be honest, all you need is a soldering iron, some good solder, the materials below, about 3 hours, and patience!

Wire: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACROLINK-10-meters-0-12mm-high-purity-silver-plated-OCC-wire-for-HIFI-aud/271683434920?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Connectors: https://www.moon-audio.com/oyaide-3-5mm-straight-rhodium-plated-mini-plug-p-3-5-sr.html

Plug: http://www.partsconnexion.com/product32136.html

Paracord: https://www.amazon.com/95-1-Strand-Paracord-Type-1/dp/B00KXEO0PE/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1507490529&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=95+paracord&th=1&psc=1

Splitter: http://www.norneaudio.com/litzheim/...carbon-barrel-splitter-diy?manufacturer_id=13

You'll also need some heat shrink. The thing about OCC wire is that if you buy it in the USA, you will pay OUTRAGEOUS prices. Buy it from China, it is dirt cheap, either on Ebay or Aliexpress. Only place I've found 1/4 inch Oyaide plugs is Parts Connexion. You can get their 3.5mm plugs many places online. I only use Oyaide, made in Japan, they are very high quality.

Dude you rock for those links. I just made a mogami cable for mine.

Do you know a good place to get pure silver wire? I'd love to hear these with an 8 core silver wire.

 

[BuddhaBruce]

Thanks for the complements gentlemen! Cost for the materials was about $80. To be honest, all you need is a soldering iron, some good solder, the materials below, about 3 hours, and patience!

Wire: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACROLINK-10-meters-0-12mm-high-purity-silver-plated-OCC-wire-for-HIFI-aud/271683434920?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Connectors: https://www.moon-audio.com/oyaide-3-5mm-straight-rhodium-plated-mini-plug-p-3-5-sr.html

Plug: http://www.partsconnexion.com/product32136.html

Paracord: https://www.amazon.com/95-1-Strand-Paracord-Type-1/dp/B00KXEO0PE/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1507490529&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=95+paracord&th=1&psc=1

Splitter: http://www.norneaudio.com/litzheim/...carbon-barrel-splitter-diy?manufacturer_id=13

You'll also need some heat shrink. The thing about OCC wire is that if you buy it in the USA, you will pay OUTRAGEOUS prices. Buy it from China, it is dirt cheap, either on Ebay or Aliexpress. Only place I've found 1/4 inch Oyaide plugs is Parts Connexion. You can get their 3.5mm plugs many places online. I only use Oyaide, made in Japan, they are very high quality.

I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron but are there instructions or guides that you used on what to solder to what or is it just pretty self explanatory? Thank you for the links though. Love that emerald green. Is sleeving the cable hard? What did you use for a heat shrink? Would a blow dryer work?

 

[Jazic]

I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron but are there instructions or guides that you used on what to solder to what or is it just pretty self explanatory? Thank you for the links though. Love that emerald green. Is sleeving the cable hard? What did you use for a heat shrink? Would a blow dryer work?

I hate to leave a blanket reply and say just to watch some YouTube videos but that's what I did. Just be sure to pre tin your wires and connectors. The inky time I don't pre tin the connector is when the wire can go directly into a slot or hole. At that point I just coat the entire thing with solder.

Also heat is your friend and your enemy. Be careful with the time you spend applying heat because the plastic and and will melt the connector. Be sure to add plenty of solder to the connections. I generally like having a bubble around the joint to ensure a solid hold and connection.

Get yourself some liquid electrical tape and maybe hot glue. One issue I've had a few times is shorts on the wires from them not being coated well enough.

Keep your tip clean (that's what she said). Clean the tip then cost it again in solder so it'll transfer heat properly.

Too much wire is too much wire. I like to keep the wire going to the connection short and tight. Less room for failure (i.e. shorts) with a wire tip that goes directly into the connector slot when soldering.

Use the right tip (that's wh... oh nvm). I tend to want to use smaller tips for my iron bit the medium can get into extremely tight areas with a steady hand.

Get a helping hand. Amazon has a 4 arm holder that reminds me of doctor octopus that is awesome. They are pricey but they will completely change the quality and speed of your soldering.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010C504NK/

 

[tuckers]

L0rdGwyn, thanks for the recipe. I'll definitely be playing around with some cables sometime soon. It's been a long time since I've made any. But I happen to have a big spool of OCC slow drawn 28 Gauge cotton insulated solid silver wire, so I will start with that.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron but are there instructions or guides that you used on what to solder to what or is it just pretty self explanatory? Thank you for the links though. Love that emerald green. Is sleeving the cable hard? What did you use for a heat shrink? Would a blow dryer work?

I hate to leave a blanket reply and say just to watch some YouTube videos but that's what I did. Just be sure to pre tin your wires and connectors. The inky time I don't pre tin the connector is when the wire can go directly into a slot or hole. At that point I just coat the entire thing with solder.

Also heat is your friend and your enemy. Be careful with the time you spend applying heat because the plastic and and will melt the connector. Be sure to add plenty of solder to the connections. I generally like having a bubble around the joint to ensure a solid hold and connection.

Get yourself some liquid electrical tape and maybe hot glue. One issue I've had a few times is shorts on the wires from them not being coated well enough.

Keep your tip clean (that's what she said). Clean the tip then cost it again in solder so it'll transfer heat properly.

Too much wire is too much wire. I like to keep the wire going to the connection short and tight. Less room for failure (i.e. shorts) with a wire tip that goes directly into the connector slot when soldering.

Use the right tip (that's wh... oh nvm). I tend to want to use smaller tips for my iron bit the medium can get into extremely tight areas with a steady hand.

Get a helping hand. Amazon has a 4 arm holder that reminds me of doctor octopus that is awesome. They are pricey but they will completely change the quality and speed of your soldering.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010C504NK/

+1 on tips from @Jazic . A blow dryer typically doesn't get hot enough to properly shrink heat shrink, but it depends on the shrink, for some it works, some it doesn't. Alternatively you can use a lighter with quick passes by the shrink, but inevitably it does not heat it evenly and can leave singe marks. I use a heat gun, which can be bought on Amazon for around $25, just depends on how much of a perfectionist you are. Another useful tool (if not a necessity) is a multi-meter, Amazon for $15 or so dollars, that will let you check for continuity of a circuit, aka, if you have a bad connection, shorts, etc.

Here is the heat shrink I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FIDTYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The sleeving wasn't too bad. After cutting the wire lengths, I used some fine grit sand paper and sanded the edges of the wire tip I was putting through so it wouldn't catch on the inside of the paracord, worked like a charm

In terms of what to solder on TRS plugs, you can use a multimeter to determine where to solder what connection. TRS stands for tip (typically left channel), ring (right channel), and sleeve (ground). There are also tons of videos/tutorials online on how to wire a TRS plug.

I know this sounds like a lot, but if you are planning to be in this hobby for a while (or you have a speaker system), being able to make your own cables is very nice, and can be very gratifying!

 

[L0rdGwyn]

ONE MORE THING! If anyone is seriously considering using this exact design, getting the twisted paracord through the 3.5mm holes in the Eidolic y-splitter was a bit challenging, it is a tight fit, so be prepared to work at it!

 

[Jazic]

It is a tight fit, so be prepared to work at it!

... that's. what. she. said.

 

[guliver]

ONE MORE THING! If anyone is seriously considering using this exact design, getting the twisted paracord through the 3.5mm holes in the Eidolic y-splitter was a bit challenging, it is a tight fit, so be prepared to work at it!

Can I use this splitter to make a balanced cable?
I just found this option
https://www.aliexpress.com/popular/headphone-diy-cable-splitter.html

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Can I use this splitter to make a balanced cable?
I just found this option
https://www.aliexpress.com/popular/headphone-diy-cable-splitter.html

I don't see why not, your limitations would be the wire gauge and sleeving thickness. Like I said, the two holes on the Eidolic E-SX2 are 3.5mm a piece, so you would just have to plan accordingly.

 

[guliver]

I don't see why not, your limitations would be the wire gauge and sleeving thickness. Like I said, the two holes on the Eidolic E-SX2 are 3.5mm a piece, so you would just have to plan accordingly.

Thank you, one more question about the wire in one length does it has at lest 4 separate wires inside for the 2 grounds plus left and right?