[Jazic]

L0rdGwyn, thanks for the recipe. I'll definitely be playing around with some cables sometime soon. It's been a long time since I've made any. But I happen to have a big spool of OCC slow drawn 28 Gauge cotton insulated solid silver wire, so I will start with that.

You have a spool of solid silver wire? Would you be willing to sell me some?

I'm heavily considering ordering a few meters of 8 core and giving that a go if not.

And one more mention about making your own cables, even if you screw up royally the most you would be out is a connector. Just cut the wire, strip it and start over. It's really hard to mess up beyond repair.

One more tip: Erwin tools makes a great auto wire stripper for around $20. It strips everything from 26 gauge wire or even lower all the way up to wire I'd never even come on contact with. One handed as well. Makes the process a bit quicker and cleaner. I personally end up cutting a few strands when I try using a knife so I got the tool.

I also got a $20ish heat gun from a local shop and haven't regretted it for a minute. I've used it on a few projects ranging from repairing a usb connector on a phone to bending some Kydex for a wireless charging stand.

Another cool tool to have is a solder remover sucker thing. It's like a rubber blower but for wicking up solder. I've used it to remove solder from a connector where I was either reusing or ended up with too much on. Great for redoing a mistake. Mine was like $5 and worth it.

Another tool is the copper sponge holder thing for cleaning your tip. I usually keep some spare solder in a heat sage container to give my tip a bath when it oxidizes too bad then punch the copper sponge to clean it up then retin the tip and I'm good to go. I usually keep some bluetac stuck on the bottom so it doesn't slide around on the table.

I'd also recommend a cheap toolbox to keep all of the soldering stuff in so you don't misplace it but that kind of goes without saying.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Thank you, one more question about the wire in one length does it has at lest 4 separate wires inside for the 2 grounds plus left and right?

I haven't built a balanced cable myself as I do not have a balanced amp, but my understanding is that a balanced cable would also have four conductors, two for the left (left + and left -) and two for the right (right + and right -), so the construction should be the same as the cable I built above but would be terminated in a different plug (4-pin XLR, TRRS, etc.).

 

[BuddhaBruce]

You have a spool of solid silver wire? Would you be willing to sell me some?

I'm heavily considering ordering a few meters of 8 core and giving that a go if not.

And one more mention about making your own cables, even if you screw up royally the most you would be out is a connector. Just cut the wire, strip it and start over. It's really hard to mess up beyond repair.

One more tip: Erwin tools makes a great auto wire stripper for around $20. It strips everything from 26 gauge wire or even lower all the way up to wire I'd never even come on contact with. One handed as well. Makes the process a bit quicker and cleaner. I personally end up cutting a few strands when I try using a knife so I got the tool.

I also got a $20ish heat gun from a local shop and haven't regretted it for a minute. I've used it on a few projects ranging from repairing a usb connector on a phone to bending some Kydex for a wireless charging stand.

Another cool tool to have is a solder remover sucker thing. It's like a rubber blower but for wicking up solder. I've used it to remove solder from a connector where I was either reusing or ended up with too much on. Great for redoing a mistake. Mine was like $5 and worth it.

Another tool is the copper sponge holder thing for cleaning your tip. I usually keep some spare solder in a heat sage container to give my tip a bath when it oxidizes too bad then punch the copper sponge to clean it up then retin the tip and I'm good to go. I usually keep some bluetac stuck on the bottom so it doesn't slide around on the table.

I'd also recommend a cheap toolbox to keep all of the soldering stuff in so you don't misplace it but that kind of goes without saying.

Thanks for all the tips! You guys have any videos on how to wire what to what? I'm definitely interested in making my own and have a bit of learning to do

 

[Jazic]

Thanks for all the tips! You guys have any videos on how to wire what to what? I'm definitely interested in making my own and have a bit of learning to do

I'm not sure on the wiring. I used a fluke multimeter that has a ringer when it detects a connection/short.

 

[abvolt]

What seems to set Focal apart from other manufacturers is that they don't offer out-of-warranty repairs on their headphones, even at the customer's expense; that is, they don't service out of warranty headphones at all. So the lack of replacement parts and no possibility of authorized repair makes a second-hand purchase a risky proposition. I'm now on my third pair of Elear's my first lasted maybe a week the second 9 months I'm waiting for my third pair to be shipped. I'd really like to consider the Focal Clear's but given the issues with the Elear's and no way of getting repairs after warranty are they worth it..enjoy

 

[DavidA]

What seems to set Focal apart from other manufacturers is that they don't offer out-of-warranty repairs on their headphones, even at the customer's expense; that is, they don't service out of warranty headphones at all. So the lack of replacement parts and no possibility of authorized repair makes a second-hand purchase a risky proposition. I'm now on my third pair of Elear's my first lasted maybe a week the second 9 months I'm waiting for my third pair to be shipped. I'd really like to consider the Focal Clear's but given the issues with the Elear's and no way of getting repairs after warranty are they worth it..enjoy

This is rather shocking information and I will let a friend who has both the Elear and Utopia to check to see if true. For me if I couldn't get a headphone that was out of warranty repaired even if I were willing to pay would be the only reason I need to never even consider the product, especially something that is sort of mass produced as the Elear are. Other headphone that are so rare like the Sony R-10 and Orpheus HE-90 I can see them not being able to be repaired since parts for them would be impossible to find.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

This is rather shocking information and I will let a friend who has both the Elear and Utopia to check to see if true. For me if I couldn't get a headphone that was out of warranty repaired even if I were willing to pay would be the only reason I need to never even consider the product, especially something that is sort of mass produced as the Elear are. Other headphone that are so rare like the Sony R-10 and Orpheus HE-90 I can see them not being able to be repaired since parts for them would be impossible to find.

This is pretty concerning. I've reached out to Focal asking for an explanation, will post their response if/when I have it.

 

[TSAVJason]

What seems to set Focal apart from other manufacturers is that they don't offer out-of-warranty repairs on their headphones, even at the customer's expense; that is, they don't service out of warranty headphones at all. So the lack of replacement parts and no possibility of authorized repair makes a second-hand purchase a risky proposition. I'm now on my third pair of Elear's my first lasted maybe a week the second 9 months I'm waiting for my third pair to be shipped. I'd really like to consider the Focal Clear's but given the issues with the Elear's and no way of getting repairs after warranty are they worth it..enjoy

Out of warranty service is available. In some cases like Yoke damage are cost prohibitive in some cases. Simply put some types of repairs would prove to be more expensive than might be practical

 

[makne]

On to a more happy subject: Have anyone tried the Sonarworks True-Fi calibration for the Elear?
I just started my 10 day free trial, and upon first listen I'm pretty impressed. Brings out the highs a little more, and also eliminates the 4k dip to my ears. More subbass too, without drowning out the midrange by any means.
Initial impressions do not find any drawbacks like reduced resolution, narrower/shallower soundstage, worse imaging/layering etc.
Of course this is just initial impressions, and I expect issues to be revealed upon further listening (if there are any issues), just wanted to throw this out there for you guys!
If this keeps up, it's definitely a worthy upgrade for the 60-ish bucks it costs (more than a multi-hundred dollar cable at least, heheh..). Given that you're listening from a computer of course.

 

[DivaFonda]

I received a trial code from them, I may try them out this week.

 

[Sound Eq]

one the best pairings is burson v2+ and elear, pairing elear with a dap like fiio x5iii is a bit two warm

 

[guliver]

On to a more happy subject: Have anyone tried the Sonarworks True-Fi calibration for the Elear?
I just started my 10 day free trial, and upon first listen I'm pretty impressed. Brings out the highs a little more, and also eliminates the 4k dip to my ears. More subbass too, without drowning out the midrange by any means.
Initial impressions do not find any drawbacks like reduced resolution, narrower/shallower soundstage, worse imaging/layering etc.
Of course this is just initial impressions, and I expect issues to be revealed upon further listening (if there are any issues), just wanted to throw this out there for you guys!
If this keeps up, it's definitely a worthy upgrade for the 60-ish bucks it costs (more than a multi-hundred dollar cable at least, heheh..). Given that you're listening from a computer of course.

Yes I just tried it but unfortunately I do not think it support asio driver so I am unable to make it work with My chord Mojo and Foobar with any other media player I is working but in this case no bitperfect thru the Mojo In HD files but maybe I cannot set it up properly!

 

[HTSkywalker]

Just ordered the Focal ELEAR from Amazon to use on my Mcintosh MA5200 integrated amplifier using the integrated High Drive output after receiving confirmation from Mcintosh tech team that the integrated High Drive will be able to handle the ELEAR 80 Ohms very well. Anyone have any experience with such setup ? (Mcintosh High Drive).
Not sure if a dedicated headphone amp is still needed, was thinking in Lake People amps if need be.

 

[Sound Eq]

can i ask a question

1- any pads replacement recommendations that are bigger as I really would like an alternative but at the same time keep the amazing sound

 

[Sound Eq]

hmm, sounds like the Oppo may not be the right portable can for me then... I'll have to think more about this.
I could just keep my IEM's too, I'm really happy with their sound, just toying with the idea if I could get better SQ from an over-ear. I'll try to demo some other closed-backs in the same price range (Sine, Momentum 2 etc.) to see how they compare against my Noble's and then make a decision. Thanks for your help!

i have the elear and sine, elear is better than sine no doubt but for portability u will not regret the sine as its a great heapdhone