[KarimLeVallois]

Does anyone know if the replacement filters on LMUE are the slightly improved 8S ones with the tweaked gold filter?

 

[Ziggomatic]

  0.75mm will work, but 0.74mm are recommended.

 
I want to share my experience to drive home the above point a little more... I've tried two aftermarket cables with TF10 (0.75mm) connectors, and, while they fit just fine, I discovered going back to the stock cable that it sits much looser in the socket than when it comes out of the box. Now, with the stock cable, I'm not very comfortable moving the earpieces around while they're not in my ear. I'm afraid they're going to fly off the cable. Clearly the 0.75mm pins stretched out the socket just enough to affect the fit of the stock cable. So, assuming all units are equal, I wouldn't personally recommend aftermarket cables with 0.75mm pins unless you're absolutely sure you won't be going back to the stock cable. 

 

[audio123]

I want to share my experience to drive home the above point a little more... I've tried two aftermarket cables with TF10 (0.75mm) connectors, and, while they fit just fine, I discovered going back to the stock cable that it sits much looser in the socket than when it comes out of the box. Now, with the stock cable, I'm not very comfortable moving the earpieces around while they're not in my ear. I'm afraid they're going to fly off the cable. Clearly the 0.75mm pins stretched out the socket just enough to affect the fit of the stock cable. So, assuming all units are equal, I wouldn't personally recommend aftermarket cables with 0.75mm pins unless you're absolutely sure you won't be going back to the stock cable. 

I said this way earlier in this thread haha dont use 0.75 go for 0.74!!!

 

[audio123]

FLC8s uses TF10(Triple. Fi) and SF3 pins, it's 0.75mm, the other one used on UE11 and UE18 is 0.78, the wirings are different too.(By Flcforrestwei).

While 0.75mm is the actual one, I believe there is an inconsistency. For my set, 0.74mm which fits in nicely though. I had a hard time fitting 0.75mm in, end up fearing the damage of my iem, I did not proceed..

 

[supplehope]

I want to share my experience to drive home the above point a little more... I've tried two aftermarket cables with TF10 (0.75mm) connectors, and, while they fit just fine, I discovered going back to the stock cable that it sits much looser in the socket than when it comes out of the box. Now, with the stock cable, I'm not very comfortable moving the earpieces around while they're not in my ear. I'm afraid they're going to fly off the cable. Clearly the 0.75mm pins stretched out the socket just enough to affect the fit of the stock cable. So, assuming all units are equal, I wouldn't personally recommend aftermarket cables with 0.75mm pins unless you're absolutely sure you won't be going back to the stock cable. 

That's the kind of comments that does really help those who really in need to change the cables for the FLC8s. Thanks in their behalf.

 

[H20Fidelity]

For the members who has stretched their sockets. What we used to with a TF10 that had stretched sockets is grab some pliers, get the cable in question and flatten the pins down a little.
 
Just squeeze them between some pliers a little amount, they'll slightly flatten out and fit tight again.

 

[Flcforrestwei]

That's the kind of comments that does really help those who really in need to change the cables for the FLC8s. Thanks in their behalf.

The pin and the soket

That's the kind of comments that does really help those who really in need to change the cables for the FLC8s. Thanks in their behalf.

The pin and the socket we use are TF10 oringinal, the pin is gold plated stainless, not easy to break, but most of the aftermarket cable the pins are made of bronze, very easy to break, so we strongly don't recommend to use aftermarket from other source.
 
If you really want to use, please usethe  aftermarket cables for TF10, and at the first time, DO NOT insert the pins 100% to the socket, just 30%~50% to try the sound quality, if you satisfy the sound quality and decide not to go back to the stock cable, then push harder to insert the cable, but if it's very hard to push, then don't force it to insert 100%, 70%~80% is OK, otherwise, you will have problem to get it out.
 
This is only the personal suggestion, please note that warranty is voided if the socket is damaged by aftermarket from other source.

 

[WhatToChoose]

  The pin and the soket
The pin and the socket we use are TF10 oringinal, the pin is gold plated stainless, not easy to break, but most of the aftermarket cable the pins are made of bronze, very easy to break, so we strongly don't recommend to use aftermarket from other source.
 
If you really want to use, please usethe  aftermarket cables for TF10, and at the first time, DO NOT insert the pins 100% to the socket, just 30%~50% to try the sound quality, if you satisfy the sound quality and decide not to go back to the stock cable, then push harder to insert the cable, but if it's very hard to push, then don't force it to insert 100%, 70%~80% is OK, otherwise, you will have problem to get it out.
 
This is only the personal suggestion, please note that warranty is voided if the socket is damaged by aftermarket from other source.

I like the emphasis on using the word cable, otherwise this could go in a slightly different direction....er, what?
 
I do like the use of 2-pin design, more solid than MMCX in my experience. Never had any loosen up on me though, but that sounds rather inconvenient, but not unmanageable

 

[willowbrook]

I like the emphasis on using the word cable, otherwise this could go in a slightly different direction....er, what?

I do like the use of 2-pin design, more solid than MMCX in my experience. Never had any loosen up on me though, but that sounds rather inconvenient, but not unmanageable

Hehehehehe...hehe

 

[Flcforrestwei]

  The pin and the soket
The pin and the socket we use are TF10 oringinal, the pin is gold plated stainless, not easy to break, but most of the aftermarket cable the pins are made of bronze, very easy to break, so we strongly don't recommend to use aftermarket from other source.
 
If you really want to use, please usethe  aftermarket cables for TF10, and at the first time, DO NOT insert the pins 100% to the socket, just 30%~50% to try the sound quality, if you satisfy the sound quality and decide not to go back to the stock cable, then push harder to insert the cable, but if it's very hard to push, then don't force it to insert 100%, 70%~80% is OK, otherwise, you will have problem to get it out.
 
This is only the personal suggestion, please note that warranty is voided if the socket is damaged by aftermarket from other source.

 

[Flcforrestwei]

  If Forrest is conscientious CEO it is impermissible to find these fault  on assembly line!  It is not a hidden problem ! Forrest please tell to your colleagues: - "Hey guys, do not use the cable at assembly if you SEE that one pin is shorter than another!" . Simply, isn't it?
And now I feel unpleasant, because never unpluged the cable? ( similar problem with A83). Bought Atlas - till waiting my Custom Art Harmony - Atlas is not good it is great!
Peace!

Actuall, We have standard about the pin exposure, it is: the pin exposure can not less than 2.80mm, the standard based on pull test.
 
Those let go all passed our inspection
 
It's not a hidden problem, but we all know that the hidden parts, as soon as it meet it's function, visual inspection is much looser, just like a earphone housing, inside surface is not as good as the outside surface, even the outside surfaces, people usually classes them as A face, B face and C face, base on the importance of the surface, A face is the most important, it's the front face, so visual inspect standard is the most strick, C face is the back face, people often overlook it, so it's visual inspection standard is not so strick.
 
But since the issue is brought up, in the future, I'll ask our staff to pick up this kind of cable.
 
Thanks for bringing up the topic, I can see you guys really care about us, we'll do better in the future.
 
@willowbrook

 

[Jozurr]

  Lately I've been finding even the gun-metal filter to be too bright and sibilant for me. Anyone feel the same way and prefer the blue filter? (though the blue loses out on clarity and feels very "veiled")

 
Same issue with me. It's just a tad bit too sibilant. Did you manage to find a solution for this? Blue just pulls the treble back far too much and the grey and gold are slightly sibilant.

 

[willowbrook]

   
Same issue with me. It's just a tad bit too sibilant. Did you manage to find a solution for this? Blue just pulls the treble back far too much and the grey and gold are slightly sibilant.

Have you tried gold with max LF and medium ULF? or gun blue with max ULF and medium LF? or max ULF&LF for gold and gun blue?

 

[Jozurr]

  Have you tried gold with max LF and medium ULF? or gun blue with max ULF and medium LF? or max ULF&LF for gold and gun blue?

 
Yes I've tried Gold with Red and Grey/Black and Blue with Red and grey/black
 
Also tried Red and Black with gold/blue
 
Tried it both directly on my phone as well as my desktop setup (DAC-19 and LC)

 

[willowbrook]

   
Yes I've tried Gold with Red and Grey/Black and Blue with Red and grey/black
 
Also tried Red and Black with gold/blue
 
Tried it both directly on my phone as well as my desktop setup (DAC-19 and LC)

I find them very hard to be sibilant, but different tolerance for everyone I guess.