DT770 Pro 80 Driver... dead after re-cabling
Jan 3, 2011 at 7:45 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 16

Blazestorm

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I recabled it once before and it got ruined over time from abuse, then I re-did it again. Now up to the most recent time there was rattle in the left driver, I knew it was a hair but when I went to take it apart I broke one of the wires on the driver. The pin was bent as well, so I figured I'd just recable it a 3rd time. (I suck at this eh?).
 
Well when I went to remove the old wires and clean the little metal tabs with holes, two of them came out from the driver. I think my soldering iron might have been too hot / left it for too long but it de-soldered itself from the driver. Well I stuck them back in the holes and pressed the soldering iron down, I felt it move a bit deeper into the driver, so I thought that was the solder melting again and giving me a solid connection.
 
But when I finally finished soldering the pin and getting it all wired up I found out the left driver is not giving me anything. I know the plug is fine because the right driver gets clear audio from both channels (just by touching it to the driver as you see it here).
 
Any ideas on how I might be able to repair this driver? Or what might have caused it... ? I'm 90% sure it was because those little tabs were de-soldered from the driver... I think I read somewhere you can order a new driver from Beyerdynamic for ~$40 something... but I'm hoping to avoid that if possible.
 
Thanks
 
 

 
Jan 3, 2011 at 8:26 PM Post #2 of 16
The voice coil wire may have been dislodged from the driver. Look under the tabs to see if you can see see a thin copper wire (looks like a strand of hair). If the wire is not touching the tab then it has come lose. You can try to re-solder it on as I have done this before, but you also run the risk of frying the wire completely. It is very hard to try and re-solder it on  and too much heat can damage the driver.
 
Jan 3, 2011 at 8:28 PM Post #3 of 16
Hmmm... I don't see anything like that on the left driver. What does it need to be soldered to?
 
I did take apart my right driver and I can see two very thin wires.
 
Why the would something so important be so fragile =/
 
Here's what it looks like right now...
 

 
Jan 3, 2011 at 8:54 PM Post #4 of 16
It's incredibly thin wire. It will run from each polarity down the groves to the underside of the driver. You might have to use a magnifying glass to see them.
 
Jan 3, 2011 at 9:02 PM Post #5 of 16
Well it looks like they broke off somehow... I can see two tiny wires inside the membrane, but they stop at the groove. On my right driver they go to two of the tabs.
 
So is the driver pretty much shot?
 
Jan 3, 2011 at 9:21 PM Post #6 of 16
Yeah you will have to get a new driver. Too much heat probably dislodged them off the metal tabs. If you want to try and solder them back on, be careful as it's insanely hard to get them back into place.
 
Jan 3, 2011 at 9:23 PM Post #7 of 16
Well they aren't long enough anymore, I think they broke off... so no re-soldering possible.
 
Lesson learned I guess, hopefully I can get a replacement driver cheap cause I love these...
 
Jan 6, 2011 at 3:38 PM Post #9 of 16
As long as you can see both ends, use a blob of solder and glue them back together...I did that in the past. Can't tell that it changed the SQ at all, but the DT770/Pro80 isn't too audiophile if you were to ask me.
 
Sep 20, 2013 at 2:35 AM Post #11 of 16
Appears to be 52mm.
 
Sep 24, 2013 at 1:28 AM Post #13 of 16
With my good ol' stainless steel ruler.
 
Sep 24, 2013 at 2:14 PM Post #14 of 16
don't feel bad.......I was excited about slapping a fancy cable on a DT-990 600ohm.........looked easy enough with the solder pads exposed nicely. What my old eyes couldn't see un-aided was that ultra-thin voice coil wire which managed to come undone on one of the drivers.
 
I wouldn't attempt doing Beyer's ever again after discovering that, especially with my skill level. Even if the voice coil wire stays in tact, how could one know the damage caused from heat?
 
I don't believe in re-cable any longer. If you want an aesthetically improved set of phones it makes sense, but sonicly, I have only heard a difference between metal types (silver and copper). The gauge of the copper wire or the composition did not make any difference for me.
 
The only difference I ever heard with a wire is switching from the silver one shipped with HE-500 to a copper one. I was shocked at the difference. IMO a good piece of 99.99 OFC is quite sufficient.
 

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