[HiGHFLYiN9]

  For now i am done soldering on DT drivers i just screwup mine.

Beyerdynamic USA offers replacement drivers for relatively reasonable prices (~$60-70 each). You can even drop in other "more fun" variants like the 600ohm variety, so you could think of it as an opportunity   

 

[stino]

I just wanted to thank you guys for inspiring me with this thread to make up some DIY cables form y LCD-2’s. The information you’ve provided enabled me to make these.
I've posted some pictures in the DIY Cable Gallery
 
 

 

[PETEREK]

Has anyone ever used this cable? I just stumbled across it on google and it looks pretty sweet. I can't find it on any US sites though. And it's too bad there's only 3 conductors.
http://www.van-damme.com/14.html

 

[i luvmusic 2]

THANKS GUYS for all the input.
luckily i went back in forth in this thead and found some info on what to look for under the driver so i manage to resolder it and it took me a long  loooooooooong time to figure out how to do it and after working on it my brother inlaw came over and tried it he endup buying it from me so did not think twice just sold it to him now i have $165 to do balance cabling for my DT880.oh and yes it will not be me doing that job.

 

[brunk]

  THANKS GUYS for all the input.
luckily i went back in forth in this thead and found some info on what to look for under the driver so i manage to resolder it and it took me a long  loooooooooong time to figure out how to do it and after working on it my brother inlaw came over and tried it he endup buying it from me so did not think twice just sold it to him now i have $165 to do balance cabling for my DT880.oh and yes it will not be me doing that job.

well i guess you can consider yourself fortunate that you came out with some cash in hand instead of a repair bill!

 

[PXSS]

THANKS GUYS for all the input.
luckily i went back in forth in this thead and found some info on what to look for under the driver so i manage to resolder it and it took me a long  loooooooooong time to figure out how to do it and after working on it my brother inlaw came over and tried it he endup buying it from me so did not think twice just sold it to him now i have $165 to do balance cabling for my DT880.oh and yes it will not be me doing that job.

Good to know you sorted it out bud! Those damn posts sure are flimsy

 

[kskwerl]

Noob questions incoming!

So I am literally just getting into DIY audio and I am really excited about this, I figured as I would start with making some interconnects so I recently bought five feet of this
 
http://www.markertek.com/Cables/Bulk-Wire-Cable/Bulk-Audio-Cable/Mogami-Wire-Cable-Corp/W2893-00-E.xhtml
 
please tell me I bought the right cable lol
 
So i have some neutrik connectors coming and some I just wanted to make some mini to mini's for now. I'm not sure where even to start though. I see the Mogami 2893 has like rubber tubing around the wires. I'm assuming you strip that off and thats where I start to get lost. I see four wires in there, but the neutriks connectors have 1 for right channel and 1 for left channel and then the ground but where does the fourth wire go? Then there's the question of using how exactly do I strip the over layer and then apply paracord to it. Then I'm thinking what the heck size paracord do I buy, like how would I know if its too big or small. Then it's like what about the heatshrink, how do I know what heatshrink to by and what size to use.
 
 
Sorry for this questions but I really have been wanting to get into DIY audio for so many years and it just seemed overwhelming and I know this can be annoying with all my questions and I want you all to know that your help is very very much appreciated. I wish there was a video walkthrough of how to make a mini to mini detailing all the steps and the reasons for each step etc.

Thanks to anyone with the patience to follow up with me

 

[Zashoomin]

  Noob questions incoming!

So I am literally just getting into DIY audio and I am really excited about this, I figured as I would start with making some interconnects so I recently bought five feet of this
 
http://www.markertek.com/Cables/Bulk-Wire-Cable/Bulk-Audio-Cable/Mogami-Wire-Cable-Corp/W2893-00-E.xhtml
 
please tell me I bought the right cable lol
 
So i have some neutrik connectors coming and some I just wanted to make some mini to mini's for now. I'm not sure where even to start though. I see the Mogami 2893 has like rubber tubing around the wires. I'm assuming you strip that off and thats where I start to get lost. I see four wires in there, but the neutriks connectors have 1 for right channel and 1 for left channel and then the ground but where does the fourth wire go? Then there's the question of using how exactly do I strip the over layer and then apply paracord to it. Then I'm thinking what the heck size paracord do I buy, like how would I know if its too big or small. Then it's like what about the heatshrink, how do I know what heatshrink to by and what size to use.
 
 
Sorry for this questions but I really have been wanting to get into DIY audio for so many years and it just seemed overwhelming and I know this can be annoying with all my questions and I want you all to know that your help is very very much appreciated. I wish there was a video walkthrough of how to make a mini to mini detailing all the steps and the reasons for each step etc.

Thanks to anyone with the patience to follow up with me

alright so yes you bought the right stuff.  So to make a mini to mini cable with 4 wires you will need 2 to ground, 1 to left and 1 to right.  Or you can strip the outer rubber layer off and just use 3 wires (1 to ground, left and right) that is up to you.  
 
Next thing you said was also correct you strip off the outer rubber coating and then there will be some foil and paper.  Get rid of all of that as well.  Next each individual wire will have a sheild.  Strip that as well and you can solder the bare copper to the connectors.
 
So when stripping the outer layer only strip however much copper you will need unless you are going to only use 3 wires, then strip the entire length of it.  Either way though slide the paracord on over the outer rubber shell or over all three of the sheilded copper wires at once.   
 
I hope this helps and hopefully you will understand my english.  If not then tell me and I will try to elaborate more.  

 

[kskwerl]

alright so yes you bought the right stuff.  So to make a mini to mini cable with 4 wires you will need 2 to ground, 1 to left and 1 to right.  Or you can strip the outer rubber layer off and just use 3 wires (1 to ground, left and right) that is up to you.  

Next thing you said was also correct you strip off the outer rubber coating and then there will be some foil and paper.  Get rid of all of that as well.  Next each individual wire will have a sheild.  Strip that as well and you can solder the bare copper to the connectors.

So when stripping the outer layer only strip however much copper you will need unless you are going to only use 3 wires, then strip the entire length of it.  Either way though slide the paracord on over the outer rubber shell or over all three of the sheilded copper wires at once.   

I hope this helps and hopefully you will understand my english.  If not then tell me and I will try to elaborate more.  

so it doesn't matter which of the four cables you solder to the each point as long as it is the same on the other end right? like each wire isn't specific to left or right or ground? example: I strip the rubber off and now I have four wires, are they all the same or does each one need to go in a certain position

 

[Zashoomin]

so it doesn't matter which of the four cables you solder to the each point as long as it is the same on the other end right? like each wire isn't specific to left or right or ground? example: I strip the rubber off and now I have four wires, are they all the same or does each one need to go in a certain position

Nope doesn't matter as long as you use the same wire on the other side.  

 

[kskwerl]

Nope doesn't matter as long as you use the same wire on the other side.  

thanks! I think I'm complicating this more than I should even though it is complicated at the same time if you get what I'm saying

 

[Johnsonr520]

What is a generally accepted wire for sleeving into pararcord I plan on running four wires through paracord to recable my hd 558's. All the cable ive used before was too stiff and i had to re-sleeve it. Not in the mood to do that again. Anything on the cheaper side is a plus as well. This isnt a hi-fi application, just for my gaming headphones.

 

[brunk]

  What is a generally accepted wire for sleeving into pararcord I plan on running four wires through paracord to recable my hd 558's. All the cable ive used before was too stiff and i had to re-sleeve it. Not in the mood to do that again. Anything on the cheaper side is a plus as well. This isnt a hi-fi application, just for my gaming headphones.

for four wires through your standard paracord, don't go any thicker than 24 AWG.

 

[Johnsonr520]

Everything ive tried before was 22 AWG, but the teflon it was covered in was just way too stiff. 

 

[Kamakahah]

  Noob questions incoming!
 

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

So I am literally just getting into DIY audio and I am really excited about this, I figured as I would start with making some interconnects so I recently bought five feet of this
 
http://www.markertek.com/Cables/Bulk-Wire-Cable/Bulk-Audio-Cable/Mogami-Wire-Cable-Corp/W2893-00-E.xhtml
 
please tell me I bought the right cable lol
 
So i have some neutrik connectors coming and some I just wanted to make some mini to mini's for now. I'm not sure where even to start though. I see the Mogami 2893 has like rubber tubing around the wires. I'm assuming you strip that off and thats where I start to get lost. I see four wires in there, but the neutriks connectors have 1 for right channel and 1 for left channel and then the ground but where does the fourth wire go? Then there's the question of using how exactly do I strip the over layer and then apply paracord to it. Then I'm thinking what the heck size paracord do I buy, like how would I know if its too big or small. Then it's like what about the heatshrink, how do I know what heatshrink to by and what size to use.
 
 
Sorry for this questions but I really have been wanting to get into DIY audio for so many years and it just seemed overwhelming and I know this can be annoying with all my questions and I want you all to know that your help is very very much appreciated. I wish there was a video walkthrough of how to make a mini to mini detailing all the steps and the reasons for each step etc.

Thanks to anyone with the patience to follow up with me

 

 
That cable will do perfectly. Everyone has different methods. I posted mine using that exact same cable a few weeks ago, here it is again.
I use a razor, xacto knife or other sharp blade to cut off the outer black PVC insulation. Then you find the copper shielding. Loosen the ends by pushing them in and out a bit, then you can just put it to slide it off. You'll be left with the twisted wires covered in a paper-like wrapping with little cloth strands inside. I prefer to leave it on. 
 
I then take a small piece of electrical tape and put it over each end to hold the paper wrapping in place. I try to make it a small piece that goes around only once, and I stretch it while I do. That way it doesn't add much to the overall diameter of the cable for when I go to sleeve it. 
 
http://www.supplycaptain.com/index.cfm?category=6  is a good source of paracord. You can also get it off normal sites like Amazon (usually from sellers like the supply captain) and also at hobby shops like hobby lobby. The 550 at supplycaptain is just the right diameter to fit over the cabling. Measure out enough to cover plus about 1 foot extra. Make sure to flame the ends so they don't fray. A lighter or small torch is handy. I like the small torch for precision personally but it isn't important. 
 
Now it's time to sleeve. Begin by sliding one end into the paracord. You'll probably be able to push it in 4 inches before it stops. Then you'll use the "worm" method to inches it along. This involves holding both sides, then using your thumb and index finger to push the cable a little deeper into the paracord. Then you pull the cable side of the paracord tight on the cable. You keep doing that over and over. With a little practice it'll become very easy. Turn on a show/anime/movie whatever and start sleeving. I like to stop and pull the already sleeved part a tight by running my fingers along it.Takes about 30 minutes for about 6ft. I don't fully tightening the paracord to the cable because I want a little slack, just a little. Cut off the access paracord remember to flame to avoid fray.. I try to cut so that I only have about 1 inch of unsleeved cable on each end. 
 
Hard part is done, now it's just about paying attention and proper labeling. 
 
There are 4 wires. Label 2 wires for ground and two for your signal. Since they are all a different color, just make sure to write it down on a post-it and you won't have to label. 
1 wire for left signal, 1 for right signal, and two for ground. 
Use your wirestrippers to take about 4mm or 1/8th inch off the end of each wire depends on the connector you plan on using. The connectors usually have good instructions for what works best for them. I usually start working on one side before the other. Tin the tips of the stripped wires with a little bit of solder. That will make it easier to solder to the connector when the time comes as it will heat faster. Go ahead and solder the wires in their proper places, making note of what wires went where. I then like to clean my connector by removing any flux residue. Look at your solder to see what is best. Some are water-soluble while others require something like rubbing alcohol. Sometimes scraping a little with the razor can help remove excess flux left-over. Remember to let it fully try before closing/using. If you are using Neutrik-style connectors, I like to put the paracord in the clamp and place a piece of heatshrink over it to make sure it holds. Slide the connector shell over from the back and screw it in. If you want heatshrink over the connector, go ahead. You're done with that side. 
 
***Now before starting the opposite side, make you put on the cable whatever needs to be there before soldering. This means you need to place the connector shell on there, a piece of heatshrink, and anything else that won't be able to be put on once soldered. No matter how many cables we make, this happens occasionally. 
 
Repeat the same steps of tinning the wire, soldering, cleaning. ***Before placing the heatshrink or connector shell, take a multimeter and make sure the connections are correct and working. You can also plug it in and listen to an left/right channel audio check to make sure everything is correct. Once everything is dry and done, close it up. 
 
You're done. Enjoy the cable and the experience you've gained. 
 
Again, this is just how I do it. There are many other ways and methods. Find what works for you.  Surely I've left out some minor details in my rush to write this so please forgive me and feel free to correct/add. 
 

so it doesn't matter which of the four cables you solder to the each point as long as it is the same on the other end right? like each wire isn't specific to left or right or ground? example: I strip the rubber off and now I have four wires, are they all the same or does each one need to go in a certain position

 
As I just explained, the wires are just colored for easy identification. You can use any of them for anything. Some people just like to use certain colors to stick to a standard so others can easily recognize what wires are going where.