[tototoru]

Did anyone try taking the 4pin XLR thingy from Neutrik and put it in Viablue T6S XLR to make a Viablue 4pin XLR?
It's held with a screw so it can be replaced, in theory inner diameter is the same and total depth is too. Any ideas?

up

 

[Benno1988]

up

Highly doubt anyone has attempted this. Why don't you and report back? I'm sure you could make it work, maybe have a fine file on hand.

 

[tototoru]

Highly doubt anyone has attempted this. Why don't you and report back? I'm sure you could make it work, maybe have a fine file on hand.

Shipping internationally is expensive nowadays, I'm reluctant to buy the Viablue not knowing if it will work, I'm worried about internal dimensions and tolerances but in theory it should work with a hole for the Neutrik to screw in, it would be nice to match the Viablue XLR to the Viablue 3.5 jacks so if no one knows I may try it myself.

 

[Benno1988]

Or go a different 3.5mm plug haha.

 

[TrollDragon]

Hello! I need som guidance here I received a OEAudio's Multi-Plug yesterday that im planning to use it on one of my cables. All my cables is either 4 or 8 core. How do i find out which cable that is R+, R-, L+, L-? The multiplug looks like this:


Do i need to buy myself a multimeter?

Yes you will need a multimeter to trace out those connections, any will do and you don't need something fancy or expensive.

If you don't know how to use a multimeter to check cables give this video a watch.

 

[Benno1988]

Anyone found a Pentaconn that has a more roomy setup for soldering? These tiny internal pins with cheap plastic between are annoying me.

 

[noddy43]

Hey Benno1988

I recently used these connectors for a cable build and am really impressed with the build quality. Although likely a little larger than the Pentaconn barrel wise the price point is about the same and they have quality components.

The shoulder points for the wires seem more naturally laid out from my perspective.

https://www.aeco.tw/

 

[Benno1988]

Hey Benno1988

I recently used these connectors for a cable build and am really impressed with the build quality. Although likely a little larger than the Pentaconn barrel wise the price point is about the same and they have quality components.

The shoulder points for the wires seem more naturally laid out from my perspective.

https://www.aeco.tw/

Can't see they make a Pentaconn?

 

[noddy43]

No they don't, just giving an alternative. I have not seen Pentaconns without the stepped linear arrangements for the solder points. That's the compromise with a small barrel size I figure.

 

[Turkeysaurus]

I think Furutech's 4.4mm connectors might be what you're looking for. Either the FT-7445(R) or CF-7445(R).

 

[silent-circuit]

I recently broke my TCA x AAW Project 4+2 stick cable at the primary connector (not saying it wasn't my fault but that was some weak solder...)

Planning to re-terminate myself unless someone would rather get practice for cost of shipping to you and back (and I guess depending on the plug, cost of materials). If I can't get this done for ~$50 I'll just do it myself.

 

[LeMat]

Hi there
Quick question as I'm about to build another headphone cable. The design I have in mind is using both UPOCC silver wire and UPOCC copper. Would it make any difference if I combine silver and copper only for the signal line and stick with copper for the ground? Just trying to avoid unnecessary expenses
thanks!

 

[Benno1988]

Has anyone done the shaped heatshrink for the earhook on IEM cables before?

Do you just heatshrink it and then bend it around a shaped block and let it cool down? I'll do some testing, but keen to have any tips if someone has already done the painful testing part.

 

[DuncanDirkDick]

I use a solid wire inside to hold the shape. Either way I apply the heatshrink, let it cool off a bit and then reheat and bend. In my experience it prevents the heatshrinks from getting ugly marks. Another way would be wrapping your shape in a silicone mat.

 

[Benno1988]

I use a solid wire inside to hold the shape. Either way I apply the heatshrink, let it cool off a bit and then reheat and bend. In my experience it prevents the heatshrinks from getting ugly marks. Another way would be wrapping your shape in a silicone mat.

Have you tried a wore free version?