DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Feb 16, 2017 at 5:05 AM Post #6,271 of 10,535
MarkerTek has them. I will post a link soon. They also list Switchcraft as I recall but they are not as easy to plug together. I also like Neutrik's (Rean's) way of gripping the cable jacket.

http://www.markertek.com/product/rn-rt4mc-b/rean-rt4mc-b-tiny-xlr-4-pole-male-black-shell-gold-contacts

http://www.markertek.com/product/rt4fc-b/neutrik-rt4fc-b-rean-tiny-4-pole-xlr-cable-connector

Total of under $5.00 for both parts. On a scale of 1-10, 1 being the easiest connectors to install (RCA plugs, Mono quarter inch being a 2). I would give these a difficulty of 8. I like them but they may not be for everyone. I have built many a cable knowing I then had to terminate it with a specific connector. With this system I can go to two channels and ground or balanced connections. it is extra work but there is less wire cost in a short pigtail and less braiding.

One day if my company becomes a sponsor here, we could possibly sell such connectors as well as pre-made pigtails with quality 3.5 mm, quarter inch, 4 pin standard XLR etc. already installed. Perhaps a few kinds of star quad cable, individual wire, connectors, heat shrink tubing, rubber grommets etc. for the DIYer.

Tom
 
Feb 16, 2017 at 11:38 PM Post #6,272 of 10,535
Hi all,
 
I have a Lear C10 cable with a straight plug, I want to re-terminate it to an angled plug. While it sounds easy to do, I am not sure how to figure out the wires as all of them have the same color.
 
My idea supposedly was to remove the housing (still in the cable), then transfer the wires to the new plug one by one after cutting and re-tinning the exposed wires. Problem is that the housing still stays on the cable lol.. so I scratched that idea.
 
Any other ideas before I proceed? Thanks in advance.
 
Feb 17, 2017 at 12:33 AM Post #6,273 of 10,535
  Hi all,
 
I have a Lear C10 cable with a straight plug, I want to re-terminate it to an angled plug. While it sounds easy to do, I am not sure how to figure out the wires as all of them have the same color.
 
My idea supposedly was to remove the housing (still in the cable), then transfer the wires to the new plug one by one after cutting and re-tinning the exposed wires. Problem is that the housing still stays on the cable lol.. so I scratched that idea.
 
Any other ideas before I proceed? Thanks in advance.


Use a sharpie and mark the cables with 1, 2, or 3 dots on a portion of the cable you will not see once the housing is bak on. Take pictures with your smart phone.
 
Feb 17, 2017 at 1:06 AM Post #6,274 of 10,535
 
Use a sharpie and mark the cables with 1, 2, or 3 dots on a portion of the cable you will not see once the housing is bak on. Take pictures with your smart phone.

 
good idea, and thanks! but i think for some reason my sharpie comes off for some reason, maybe it gets rubbed by my fingers or something? was thinking to make a small cut, up to three small cuts on each wire but still cant see it sadly
 
Feb 17, 2017 at 10:09 AM Post #6,275 of 10,535
good idea, and thanks! but i think for some reason my sharpie comes off for some reason, maybe it gets rubbed by my fingers or something? was thinking to make a small cut, up to three small cuts on each wire but still cant see it sadly

If you have a multimeter you continuity test the terminals and the exposed wire you'll solder.

Sharpie pens work OK but I continuity tested the wire just before soldering to the connector to be 100%.



In short I'd get a multimeter if you haven't got one. They're £10 on amazon and a cheap one will do fine for basic things like continuity.
 
Feb 17, 2017 at 5:32 PM Post #6,276 of 10,535
I use Mogami 2893 or 2799 for my DT 770 cables. I used some Canare cable (I think) for a first try, but I didn't like how stiff it was. The 2893/2799 cable is 26 AWG so it's nice and flexible, plus it's cheap.

http://www.head-fi.org/t/71148/diy-cable-gallery/14670#post_11939940

If you're doing a removable cable mod on the DT770s, please be careful. It's really, really easy to overheat the pads and separate the voice coil wire (I've done it).

Would something like this work? 
 
http://a.co/8jT8cO6

 

Modding and soldiering isnt an a problem.Just never played with audio wiring.


 
Feb 17, 2017 at 5:43 PM Post #6,278 of 10,535
Feb 17, 2017 at 8:35 PM Post #6,279 of 10,535
If you have a multimeter you continuity test the terminals and the exposed wire you'll solder.

Sharpie pens work OK but I continuity tested the wire just before soldering to the connector to be 100%.



In short I'd get a multimeter if you haven't got one. They're £10 on amazon and a cheap one will do fine for basic things like continuity.

 
I do have a multimeter, not sure how to check for continuity though, I really don't use the other features besides checking voltage of PSU haha. Maybe I should ask mister G. Thanks!
 
Feb 17, 2017 at 9:08 PM Post #6,281 of 10,535
 
If you have a multimeter you continuity test the terminals and the exposed wire you'll solder.

Sharpie pens work OK but I continuity tested the wire just before soldering to the connector to be 100%.



In short I'd get a multimeter if you haven't got one. They're £10 on amazon and a cheap one will do fine for basic things like continuity.

 
I do have a multimeter, not sure how to check for continuity though, I really don't use the other features besides checking voltage of PSU haha. Maybe I should ask mister G. Thanks!


RTFM
 
Feb 17, 2017 at 9:22 PM Post #6,285 of 10,535

 
   
I do have a multimeter, not sure how to check for continuity though, I really don't use the other features besides checking voltage of PSU haha. Maybe I should ask mister G. Thanks!

Go to the lowest ohm setting, sometimes they use the omega symbol, touch the leads together and you should get a zero reading. A piece of wire should give you the same result. A lot of meters have a small speaker symbol for an audio tone, depending on the make of meter this might not be very loud though.
On some kinds of cables you have to be careful of creating a high resistance short, you measure for this on a higher ohm scale such as 100k or up but that is a discussion for another day.
 

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