DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Aug 18, 2015 at 8:04 AM Post #4,126 of 10,535
 
So I got some 26awg silver plated cable from the navships ebay seller, all of it's 19 strands \o/

100 feet of the kapton+teflon insulated wire (50ft of green, 50ft of purple), and 100 feet of just the teflon insulated stuff (50ft white, 50ft red). 

The kapton insulated stuff is thinner, and also a little stiffer. It seems to hold it's shape after bent a little more than without it. This will make 2 lots of 2.4 meter cables with 8 strands each for the LCD2's. Will report back in a week or so on the Kapton cables to see how it goes with braiding and as a headphone cable in general. 

Now I just need to find some good connectors :3


As for connectors, you should try Daleproaudio.com great selection and FREE SHIPPING. great if you want to pick up one or two connectors.

Man, nice link. I don't know how I've never come across that site. The prices are great compared to other places, they have a wider selection than a lot of other sites, and on top of all that they ship for free?! That's awesome. As a frequent DIYer, the free shipping has got my attention, big time.
 
Aug 18, 2015 at 8:35 AM Post #4,127 of 10,535
Quick question I can't seem to find an answer for:
 
--I'm re-wiring some AKG K601's with Canare Star Quad. 
 
--The bare wire seems to redundant in this 4-wire, 4-contact headphone. 
 
--So do I ignore the bare wire in the Star Quad cable?
 
Aug 18, 2015 at 8:41 AM Post #4,128 of 10,535
Quick question I can't seem to find an answer for:

--I'm re-wiring some AKG K601's with Canare Star Quad. 

--The bare wire seems to redundant in this 4-wire, 4-contact headphone. 

--So do I ignore the bare wire in the Star Quad cable?

I always do, I've never used the shield as part of the connection.
 
Aug 18, 2015 at 8:45 AM Post #4,129 of 10,535
I want to make a hp cable for my new HE-400S. 6.35 to 2.5. But -there is always a but- I don't have much money left.
I'm not saying "give me HE-1000 sound from HE-400S!", I just want to improve the sound a little. What can I use for this? It should be cheap and better from the stock cable but like I said I'm not expecting an awesome change on sound. I'm not looking for "pure gold cables!". It must be cheap. A little advice you can give me would be awesome.
 
Aug 18, 2015 at 3:46 PM Post #4,131 of 10,535
   
Good stuff to start with, however I wouldn't ever use it with IEM's and it would make one stiff cable for headphones. I used to play around with that stuff years ago, I use whatever is left over for odd jobs now-a-days.
 
As for connectors, you should try Daleproaudio.com great selection and FREE SHIPPING. great if you want to pick up one or two connectors.

 
That link is extremely useful. However as I'm in AU, no free shipping for me :frowning2: But still quite a few things that I'd like anyway :3
 
Aug 18, 2015 at 3:49 PM Post #4,133 of 10,535
   
I'm afraid that I can't answer. I can't seem to find any info on which is the front or back pins, and I haven't worked with that style of plug yet.

 
When I made mine, (Noble, 2-pin) I pretty much had to just decide which would be front and back since they are reversible.  I made it so the Eidolic logo always points out.  If you want to use the dots or whatever, that works too.  If it's not keyed, just pick a side that you'll remember.
 
Aug 18, 2015 at 5:00 PM Post #4,134 of 10,535
   
When I made mine, (Noble, 2-pin) I pretty much had to just decide which would be front and back since they are reversible.  I made it so the Eidolic logo always points out.  If you want to use the dots or whatever, that works too.  If it's not keyed, just pick a side that you'll remember.


OMG that makes so much sense why couldn't I figure that part out.
LOL
This whole DIY shenanigan is doing my head in
 
Thank you all
 
Aug 19, 2015 at 8:23 AM Post #4,137 of 10,535
I'm making my first cable (Mogami W2534 and Neutrik NP3C-B) to replace my broken K701 cable.
 
 

 
 
How do the joints look? They look good to me but I would like further confirmation.
Also is it bad that the outer cable cover doesn't go all the way up to the connector?
 
Aug 19, 2015 at 8:30 AM Post #4,138 of 10,535
  I'm making my first cable (Mogami W2534 and Neutrik NP3C-B) to replace my broken K701 cable.
 
 

 
 
How do the joints look? They look good to me but I would like further confirmation.
Also is it bad that the outer cable cover doesn't go all the way up to the connector?

 
They looks good if you have used flux or a solder wire with flux. Don't forget to wrap it with a heat shrink or electrical tape. I recommend wrapping every wire one by one and wrapping tight all together from the top layer.
 
Aug 19, 2015 at 8:42 AM Post #4,139 of 10,535
 
They looks good if you have used flux or a solder wire with flux. Don't forget to wrap it with a heat shrink or electrical tape. I recommend wrapping every wire one by one and wrapping tight all together from the top layer.

 
I used 60% tin, 40% lead, rosin core solder. Does that count? Should I wrap electrical tape around the joint as well?
 
Aug 19, 2015 at 8:53 AM Post #4,140 of 10,535
   
I used 60% tin, 40% lead, rosin core solder. Does that count? Should I wrap electrical tape around the joint as well?

Rosin core means flux. Yes. 
I'm generally wrapping every space I can found. %90 of EMI causing by non-shielded solders.
 

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