DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Aug 8, 2015 at 10:24 PM Post #4,100 of 10,535
I've never seen anything in my searches. You'll probably just have to drill a hole through a dock to get the wires to come out the side. Then plug up the old hole.

Yeah that's what I was thinking too. Bummer. I'd rather have it ready to go but I can make it work.
 
Aug 9, 2015 at 4:15 PM Post #4,102 of 10,535
Hey Guys, I'm looking for a cable to use for DIY-Cable for travels. I travel a lot and am a all day, everyday music listener. so I need A very durable and flexible cable close to no memory. The cables I am used to are 3mm thick, so that's the diameter I'm looking for. Having enough cores to insert a inline microphone would put the cherry on the cake. Sound quality of the cable is secondary, but appreciated. Any recommendations? Hopefully I'm not looking for a inexistent jack of all trades. Thanks in advance!
 
Aug 9, 2015 at 9:48 PM Post #4,103 of 10,535

This is the cable for hifiman He-400. The two inner wires are exposed. This is the stock cable. It is not very pliable. Is there a way to salvage this by repair? I was hoping to strip the rubber and find soft felixable material to wrap around. Any suggestions?
 
Aug 9, 2015 at 10:29 PM Post #4,104 of 10,535
 
This is the cable for hifiman He-400. The two inner wires are exposed. This is the stock cable. It is not very pliable. Is there a way to salvage this by repair? I was hoping to strip the rubber and find soft felixable material to wrap around. Any suggestions?

 
cut off the bit that's exposed,, buy a new connector if the current one cannot be salvaged, solder the new connector to the ends and don't forget to attach some heat shrink (that's the sold flexible material that you're looking for) to give a better finish. problem solved. I don't have any first hand experience with Hifiman headphones but it's the same as any other connector.
 
Probably another more short term solution is to get some 3:1 heat shrink and see if it will shrink small enough to wrap around this problem
 
Aug 11, 2015 at 3:52 AM Post #4,105 of 10,535
So here is where I am at. I have heat shrink tubing. But it won't fit over the plug. The larger tube shrinks too loose. The perfect size qould be 6.4 to 3.2 mm. But that end connector is giving me trouble. I tried using needle pliers to stretch. But the tubes are splitting. I just want to secure this wire. Is there any other ways?
 

 
Aug 11, 2015 at 2:52 PM Post #4,107 of 10,535
  So here is where I am at. I have heat shrink tubing. But it won't fit over the plug. The larger tube shrinks too loose. The perfect size qould be 6.4 to 3.2 mm. But that end connector is giving me trouble. I tried using needle pliers to stretch. But the tubes are splitting. I just want to secure this wire. Is there any other ways?
 

Would it be a good idea to just cut the wires and use a butt splice connector. Then apply heatshrink on top?

 
Aug 12, 2015 at 2:19 AM Post #4,109 of 10,535
When making a IEM cable with 2pin connector, how do I know which pin is which? They don't seem to be keyed in any way...
 
Edit - Okay, figured it out.  Front is - and Rear is +.  I made sure to put the connectors on so I know which was supposed to be front and rear and I'm golden.
 


 
 
SPC with transparent insulation, Eidolic connectors.
 
Aug 14, 2015 at 6:19 AM Post #4,110 of 10,535
  When making a IEM cable with 2pin connector, how do I know which pin is which? They don't seem to be keyed in any way...
 
Edit - Okay, figured it out.  Front is - and Rear is +.  I made sure to put the connectors on so I know which was supposed to be front and rear and I'm golden.
 


 
 
SPC with transparent insulation, Eidolic connectors.

 
This is an example of a case where a DMM is a lifesaver (or rather sanity saver :) )
 
Use a DMM to test the closed loop between the TRS plug and the IEM connector's pins of the original cabling. Signal always +, ground always -. If it's inverted, I think it will still sound, but phase-inverted(?)
 

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